u/I_Finger_Guitars

I just finished my PCV rebuild and now this... Glad I noticed before going on a 1000 mile road trip lol. Super bummed I won't be able to fix this in time for Tail of the Dragon but better safe than sorry.

Looks like the diff carrier bearing is shot really bad. Noticed some noise and play in the CV axle the other day but upon further inspection it's not looking good.

Looks like I'll be pulling the trans yet again...

I had an issue with oil residue in the intake so just to be sure, I did a whole refresh of the breather box with OEM seals and PCV valve.

Man it SUCKED to get the intake manifold bracket off from underneath but I eventually wiggled it free and the rest was cake with my extended reach pliers. I decided not to move the cat/exhaust out of the way which I figured wouldn't give me much more space anyways (though it probably would've helped a little). Old hoses were brittle garbage so those got replaced too, now I have the fun of getting them back in place in such a tight cramped area.

The onto the next task, I gotta check out my right CV axle since I think the retaining clip on the diff side is loose and it's wiggling around in the seal more than I'd like. The fun never ends!

This project is in its very early iterations, but my goal is to perfect the design/process and release the print files for anyone to use. It should fit 3rd gen Integra coupes and also some CRX models I believe? I remember it being the same part number but maybe I'm wrong.

Obviously there's a couple hurdles ahead. With ASA (which seems to be the best choice of material for this type of part) it's been hard to get the printer settings correct to ensure a water tight and smooth finish, the layers aren't adhering as tightly as I'd want, which you can kinda see in the pics. I want this to be sturdy enough to withstand years of regular use. The shape is also mostly there but it could be improved to make it as identical to OEM as I can reasonably make it.

Also huge issue yet to be solved is ensuring a good spray pattern from the tip of the nozzle. Currently experimenting with simply not printing the tiny hole and using a red hot pin to make it the exact diameter for a good spray pattern, but it's tedious and I worry about how long term usage could erode or damage the plastic and change the spray. Most spray nozzles use metal (brass?) inserts, which I looked for everywhere on the internet and haven't found any sold separately. I might try digging one out of a cheap Amazon nozzle and redesign the print to accept one.

Either way, progress is being made and I'm learning a lot about both 3D printing and designing custom parts. Hopefully I can make more progress soon and share more updates!

Restoring an old heavily modified cart (I believe it was a Manco but it's been chopped up and extended) with a predator 412. Terrifyingly fast and the brakes need work, so I figured I'd see if it's possible to convert it to hydro but I'm running into a space issue. I can't see a good way to mount a master cylinder in front of the pedal since there's only a couple inches of frame to work with.

I thought of moving the pedal back but then it would be a little too close to the steering, plus I don't want to reduce leg room. Another option is extending the part of the pedal below the frame and mounting the cylinder behind and underneath, but I'd be worried it would get ripped off, which would obviously be not so great.

If anyone has done this before and has any ideas/tips, please let me know! Worst case scenario if it can't be done I'll keep it cable and just get a beefy caliper setup.

A little rough around the edges but it's got a locking diff + 5-speed in bright blue metallic. Almost no rust, just some mechanical shortcomings and cosmetics to iron out.

Plans are to restore to factory condition and then maybe some tasteful mods 👀

If you have steering slop it may not be tie rods, in my case the rack mount bushings were barely holding on!

Sorry for yet another post! While spiraling due to the diff drain plug debacle (thankfully got on one the way) I decided to try and diagnose the persistent small evap leak I've ignored for months.

I bought the cheapest smoke machine money could buy and it's surprisingly good for the price! However while poking around trying to find the leak, I plugged the smoke into the fuel vapor return line going into the charcoal canister and smoke started billowing out of part of the canister. Not out of where I assumed the vent valve came out, but out of a joint where one part of the canister meets another. (You can see in the video where it's coming from)

I know you're supposed to close the evap vent solenoid before smoke testing but I don't want to spend money on a bidirectional scan tool right now to properly close it. My plan was to just see where it vents normally and plug that hole. But I'm not sure that's where the smoke is coming out since it's spewing out of a joint between two supposedly sealed pieces, and I don't know if that's due to the valve being open or an actual issue with the canister.

I am not an expert so please chastise me if I'm just being an idiot!

New to owning a big boy toolbox, the slides aren't riveted or bolted in place, they have these square metal tabs that fit into square holes in the chassis with a locking tab. Two slides are busted and missing bearings.

Really just looking for plug and play drawer slide replacements but all the cheapo Amazon ones are drilled for bolts and don't have the locking tabs. I may be able to rebuild the slides but I'd rather just pay for new ones that aren't falling apart. I can't tell if the replacement ones on Snap On's website are the same mounting style, I'm guessing they may not be considering the fact that this box is probably a decade+ old.

Any advice or leads are appreciated!

Edit: it's a JH Williams toolbox that was sold by Snap On. They are a direct subsidiary. Hopefully that's ok, this sub was the best place I could find to ask about it.