u/I_SNORT_KITTENS

A word of caution for anyone buying direct from Acebeam. They do not maintain accurate inventory on their website. If you order something from the US warehouse, you aren't guaranteed to have your item shipped from there. I ordered a E75 from the US Warehouse with the quad 519a in MAO. 6 days later, I got an email that the US warehouse was out of stock of this item, and to choose another available color. Black was all they had in the US warehouse with those emitters, so I selected that one. 5 more days pass, and I email them to ask for shipping info. They send it, and it is coming from China.

Just a warning if you're looking to buy direct - maybe use a reseller.

I owned a home from 2008-2016 until my divorce. Since then, I've been stuck in the rental cycle, renting the same home for 10 years. I didn't have the funds to get another house immediately after the divorce, and got stuck in the cycle of renting a MUCH nicer house than I could afford a mortgage on. Early 2020, I got re-married and we started a business. Covid hit shortly after. Our very regulated industry got attacked by our state government, pushing out all but the biggest players. We lost out on the historically low interest rates because we were dumping all our money into building a business that would ultimately close, despite good profit margins and solid operations.

Two years after losing the business, we're back at saving for a home. We first started looking about a year ago; solely existing construction. We like a cozy feeling neighborhood with established trees and homes that are unique from one lot to the next. We put in SIX offers at or above offering price. On some, we asked for seller concessions. On another, we were so in love with the house that we came with our best offer right up front. That seller didn't even entertain our above-asking offer because we were pre-approved for a FHA loan. They saw us as "risky" despite having nothing to go on other than "they're using FHA, they must be irresponsible." None of our offers were accepted, and only a handful of sellers counter-offered. Guess who won every time? You already know - cash buyers waiving inspection. We can't compete with that, so we signed a new lease.

Now, with that lease coming to a close, we've been shifting to new construction, thinking it would be easier if we weren't dealing with sellers with an emotional attachment to the home. We found the builder we liked in our price range that had incentives that made sense for us. We toured several homes with our agent. The trick here is the builder only gives the full incentive package on homes that are fully complete and waiting on a buyer. No problem; the one we wanted had been sitting 3 months, and had full incentives. That very same day, our agent told the builder rep to send over the contract, as we were going to commit. Within a couple hours, I had the contract and noticed a typo on my wife's info. Reached out to the agent to have it fixed, and she informed us that another sales rep slid their buyers into a contract on this home before our rep could correct and return it to us. Turns out the sneaky builder rep knew exactly what he was doing, as we saw the screenshot of the text conversation between the two reps where ours told the other that it was off-limits, and that we were submitting a contract that day. Now, we're taking the risk of going month-to-month while we wait for another one to be finished with incentives, or until we give up and find something different. The anxiety around possibly being asked to leave once we go month to month is crippling. This is the only builder in our price range offering the incentives that make it an easy choice, and I refuse to go down to the crap tier builders like DR Horton.

There's really no point to this post, except to vent and tell others struggling that you're not alone. It's very hard out there unless you have a ton of liquid cash. And while individual sellers can be more picky about who they sell to, I didn't expect builder agents to play stupid games.

In short, I have no idea what we're going to do other than keep looking while hoping our landlord doesn't kick us out.

I went headfirst into flashlights about 3 months ago, and have spent an embarrassing amount of money trying to find the perfect torch. I recently picked up a Fireflies E90 Blaze RE with the FFL909A 1800k. I love a warm tint, but it took seeing this in person to realize that it's TOO warm for a thrower, at least for my preference. I want to swap in the same emitter, but in 4000k. Can you all share your favorite DIY modding resources for a beginner? I am confident in my ability to learn how to do just about anything, but have no experience swapping emitters. I'd appreciate any recommended resources to start learning how to do this.

Some of you may recall the post I made several weeks back. I was having trouble cycling some types of subs with the armaspec captured buffer in my 7.5” build. Swapped that for a standard 3oz buffer and Sprinco yellow, which resolved the cycling issue for all but a couple types (Hush 220 and Phantom 200). My gas port is pretty small (.093).

All of my early testing was done with .300 BLK specific PMAGs (not the 5.56 ones). A full mag still would not cycle rounds. One round in the mag would fire and hold the bolt open, though. 10 rounds in the 30 round mag also worked fine. That got me thinking maybe it was an issue with my magazines.

I tried a full Lancer 20 round mag with the problematic ammo, and it cycled perfectly and held the bolt open when empty with both problematic types of ammo.

I ordered a 30 round Lancer mag to try. Even fully loaded, all of my ammo cycles without any problems. If I put a full PMAG back in, the problems come back.
I guess I’ll stick to Lancer mags from here on out. I thought I was gonna have to open up the gas a little bit, but simply swapping to a different type of magazine seems to have done the trick.

I don’t know much about rifles, and I am learning as I go. I don’t fully understand the reason behind this conclusion, but I thought I would throw it out there since we see so many threads about subsonic ammunition failing to cycle.

Noob alert! 🚨

I have always shot 124 grain FMJ when I go to the range, with the exception of shooting suppressed, in which case I use 147 or 165 grain. Today, I decided to try the heavier weight rounds in my unsuppressed handguns, just for giggles.

I took a few handguns to the range today. I had a variety of 9 mm rounds in various weights. The first magazine I shot out of my Shield Plus was loaded with 147. They were just not hitting where I was aiming, which initially confused me. I popped in the next mag which was loaded with 124. Perfect grouping at the same distance. Captain obvious here, right? Since I’ve always shot the same ammo at the gun range for the most part, I never really considered the fact that I might need a totally different zero for a heavy load. As an experiment, I adjusted the optic for accuracy with 147, then fired a test mag. Perfect groups right where I aimed. While still zeroed for 147, I shot another magazine with 124. Yep, you guessed it: good grouping, but off the mark.

I’m sure more seasoned shooters than myself are well aware of this, but it seems like I’m going to need to stick to a standard load across all my pistols so my zero is valid. I figured since this subReddit has a lot of newer shooters, this might be valuable information for other people like me.