Do you guys shoot their subs? I bought half a case and it seems like some of the ammo is hot. Don’t know if it has to do with them using mixed projectiles as well. I’d shoot a mag thinking I mixed in subs with supers but I double checked and clearly didn’t. I even tried different suppressors and got the same results. I guess you get what you pay for?
Have any of you ran into that issue?
BCA 10.5” upper on a PSA lower (fancy, I know). what would be ideal buffer weight/spring combos for running suppressed or with an FRT respectively?
is Springco Blue and H2 still the fix-all?
God Bless America
Anyone know who has a 5" to 9" bolt action pistol that's 1:5 twist? trying to get a little woods rifle for subs only (well never say never but 99.9% sub usage)
Ok with buying a barreled action and doing the rest but I would prefer to buy a complete deal either "pistol" or SBR is fine.
EDIT: Looking for someone that actually has one in stock I'm aware of what is on the market.
Title: Building a dedicated suppressed 9” .300 BLK for home defense—looking for proven setups and parts recommendations
I’m about to build my first dedicated .300 Blackout AR, and before I start buying parts I’d like to hear from people who have actually put a lot of rounds through theirs. I already bought the upper 9” BCM upper, so I’m mainly looking to dial in the rest of the setup around it.
My goal is reliability above everything else. I’m not trying to build a rifle that does every possible combination of ammo and suppressor. I’d rather optimize it for the roles I actually care about.
Primary role
Home defense
9” barrel
Suppressed
Dedicated expanding subsonic defensive ammo
Reliability is priority #1
Secondary role
Compact backpack/truck gun
Suppressor removed
Supersonic ammo
I don’t care if unsuppressed subs work.
Basically, I’m okay if the rifle is optimized for:
Suppressed + subs
Unsuppressed + supers
and I don’t mind if the other two combinations aren’t perfect.
My questions:
Is this a realistic way to tune a .300 BLK, or am I overlooking something?
What buffer weight and spring are you running on a setup like this? Standard carbine? H buffer? Sprinco? Something else?
Which suppressors have given you the best reliability with subsonic ammo? I’m actually looking for moderate-to-higher backpressure, not the newest low-backpressure cans. My understanding is that the extra backpressure can help ensure reliable cycling with suppressed subs.
If you could buy one suppressor today specifically for a 9” .300 BLK, what would it be and why?
Which defensive subsonic ammo has proven the most reliable in your rifle? Hornady Sub-X? Lehigh? Something else?
If you had to build this rifle again from scratch assuming you already had a 9” upper, what lower components, suppressor, buffer, spring, and muzzle device would you choose?
I’m not looking for theoretical answers. I’m interested in hearing from people who have actually run a setup like this for a while.
Thanks!
New rifle! Cycles everything fine up until the last round and then this. ejects at 4-6 o’clock everything from sig 125 supers to subx 190s but the last round of the mag with Winchester white box and subx do this. Sig ammo functioned perfect as well as the rifleline fmjs. Out of a 16” barrel with an omega 300 on the end. I forgot my mags at home so I used a steel ASC 5 round mag I found in my truck. Any suggestions?
Been sitting in the back as a parts guns since I mostly shoot my 8.2” rosco setup more since it’s tuned to run supers and subs with a folder.
Painted my slr rail with rapco, added slk stock, dfc grip, aro on a kastle collab mount. Also running strike industries sights which work when in the down position since they have little posts up top acting as pistol sights. Tested it at the range yesterday to look through the 1.93 mount and it’s accurate enough.
Running a yellow spring and 3.4 oz buffer and its locks back on 150g supers unsuppressed/suppressed and 220g ammo inc subs with suppressor. Barrel is a 6” Faxon with lahar30k.
With this setup, supers aren’t bad at all to shoot. Previously when I had a sylvan folder and lightened 0.9oz buffer to lock back on reman subs, supers were unbearable to shoot. I’m sure if I get cheap reman underpowered subs it might not lock back, so I’ll stick with factory ammo.
It's a Spikes Crusader upper and lower, Dead Air RXD30TI supressor, Holosun 510c, HM3X, Olight Odin, Radian Raptor, Magpul Stock, Magpul two point sling. I've got more mags than I can count, and a box of subs. I have a few supers too, but the subs are so quiet.
Anyway, roast away!
I have a Sig Rattler LT in 300 BLK and recently purchased a hand stop for the gun. I intend to shoot suppressed the majority of the time. There may be times I want to shoot it unsuppressed. How far back from the first opening of the muzzle device do I need to be? I could do a trial-and-error test, but that might involve pain. :)
recently bought my first gun psa 10.5 300 blackout and a resilient simple man, i failed to realize the can wouldn't fit. i was told i need to change my handguard and was recommended to go with a 9.5 guard. so my question is what would be a good website to find a guard that will fit or what other options do i have. i apologize in advance if this is a dumb question just trying to get knowledge and learn as i go
EDIT: My gas block was not fully open, as I thought. Didn't read directions carefully enough and had the gas block pin fully out, bleeding too much gas. I still have to go out again to verify this fixes it, but I think it will. I'll leave this here incase anyone in the future is dumb like me and doesn't read the directions correctly
Barrel: 7.5 in
Gas block: Superlative Arms adjustable, fully open
Spring: Tubb 300blk
Buffer: Tried standard Carbine buffer and H2
Suppressor: Diligent Defense Enticer S
Ammo: SB 200g subsonic
I have 2 guns with the same setup. Both guns will shoot and cycle supers just fine, but when switching to subs won't cycle the next round. I tried shooting the ammo through a friend's gun, and his cycled it just fine, so it's not that. He has a fixed gas block, doesn't know what spring and buffer he has.
Do I need to go with a lighter buffer? This is my first time getting a suppressor and tuning a gun, but after trying to research it it seemed the common consensus was an H2 buffer with a lighter spring would be a good starting place, then adjust the gas block from there
TL;DR - The pic shows a single shot at 10 yds on a clean target, that's jacket separation and tumbling, right? Is this a rifle or an ammo issue, what should I check first? Should I be worried about barrel damage?
I have a brand new Sig MCX Spear LT 9" (1:5 twist), bought some low cost .300 BLK subsonic 220 gr FMJ that was highly recommended in this sub and tried to zero it for the first time today. About half of the rounds that actually hit the target were consistently accurate with round holes, the other half looked like they tumbled and/or fragmented and most of those were off the paper completely. It was random when it happened, I had good and bad rounds throughout the session.
The rifle was cleaned prior to shooting it for the first time today and the barrel looked shiny and clear with no defects that I could see. I did not shoot with a suppressor, I wanted to see how the ammo performed first and I'm glad I waited.
I only had the low cost ammo with me today, so I didn't try another brand or grain for comparison. I'll leave the ammo manufacturer's name out of it for now until I figure out if this is a rifle or ammo issue. The ammo website didn't mention anything about twist rate limitations.
Looking for some advice on what to do next. I put about 75 rounds though the barrel today with this ammo. Since a lot of the bad rounds were off the paper completely, it took me a while to realize what was going on. What damage should I look for in the barrel?
Edit: Didn't realize the brand was that important, it was HSL.
Bunch of brass granules on my lower and some on my upper. I’m a new shooter so I’m not sure how bad this is or what to really do bout it.
Looking for some good sub ammo that is fairly inexpensive for range days. I have heard bad things about the black-box Winchester rounds but in my personal experience with other calibers the Winchester target/practice rounds have been totally fine.
Some good deals for the 4th. The green box magtech look to be positively received.
I got some nice Hornady subs at the range but i could literally feel a piece of me dying with every trigger pull due to the cost. Looking for something to establish as my “primary sub” round that I will be easily able to find and afford.
$180 Amazon DayNight LVPO (says 1-6, but really 1-3!) on the Rossi Brawler. Just a build for fun. Can is a Form 1 I built 5 years ago.
Bit overwhelming to narrow things down so I’m humbly seeking some advice, all I’ve ever had are traditional shotguns and deer rifles. I have decided on the 300 round but would like to start with a solid entry level gun and keep it $1Kish maybe plus optics and suppressor. I like the form factor of the Sig Rattler Canebrake. Plan to suppress it, prefer smaller the better. Don’t really want to build it just kinda buy something ready to go if that’s possible, just looking for a solid compact gun that won’t jam.
TLDR: gun is set up for subs and shooting <100 yards 99% of the time. Is it worth trying supers?
I typically shoot subs at an indoor range by my house up to 25 yards. Finally have it setup and running well with my optic zeroed at 25 yards. Setup is geared towards home defense.
Going to an outdoor range next week with some friends and was going to try the subs out to 100 yards. However, the range can accommodate up to 200 yards and I am interested in trying some supersonic ammo for this.
I know the zero may be way off and ill need to look at ballistic calculators as I don't intend to rezero my optic. I know they'll be gassy and can adjust my AGB (carbine spring with H2 fully open for subs). With these considerations in mind, is it worth the hassle of trying supers or just stick to the subs? I am intrigued by the platforms ability to run both and want to try it, but knowing its just a one off I'm second guessing.