u/Interesting_Host744

Just got a mail introducing the unlined derby. The link then takes me to some very lined shoes. Am I missing something?

Model and some facts:

Travers, All in One Slipon - Pullup Brown

It features a partly foam backed leather insole, a thick (ca. 5 mm) leather midsole and a natural crepe rubber outsole and heel.

It is a stitch down construction made from BLKBRDs brown pull up leather. The website shows an unlined pair and states “unlined” in the product description; the actual shoes I received however are fully lined in brown leather. There are some pictures od customer shoes shown with the reviews, which all show lined shoes. The last used is the Cuero, which according to Mukul from BLK BRD is the same as Royce.

-          ordered size: EU 48.

-          length of the insole is: 315mm (ca. 12.4 inch)

-          length over all: 340mm (ca. 13.4 inch)

-          weight per boot: 500g (1lbs 1.6 oz)

-          thickness leather upper: ca. 1.8mm plus lining ca. 1mm.

 

Packing, built, QC:

The shoes came in BLKBRDs nice black shoe box wrapped in black paper. Included was one larger shoe bag. It was part of a delivery of two pairs of shoes, which also included BLKBRDs signature shoehorn.

The ordering process was straight forward since both shoes ordered were basically standard. It did however require a request via email due to the size I need. A last in size 48 was custom made and BLKBRD charged Rs. 1800 (ca.16€) for that. That last was used for both pairs of shoes.

 

The built quality on these shoes is very good. I have not found a single obvious flaw like loose threads, wonky stitching or defects in the leather. I find the craftsmanship and attention to detail is actually quite amazing. The stitching on the upper is very clean and tidy I counted 10-11 stitches per inch. The sole is apparently handstitched, and stitching is about 7 mm wide and varies by roughly +/- 0.5 mm. There are no wonky stitches, and it looks very well executed. The upper itself has a slightly waxy feel to the touch and feels quite supple yet substantial. The leather is not as matte as it appears on the website but has a rather nice subtle shine to it. It also has a noticeable pull up. It creases rather easily but I find that goes rather nicely with the casual vibe of these shoes. The lining is a dark smooth leather except for the heel where it is suede. It is nothing extraordinary, but it is of decent quality and well done. The insole is a very thin leather backed with a bit of foam at the rear half of the shoe and some fabric at the toe. It is lightly glued in yet quite easily removable.

 

Sizing and fit:

I went with the same size and last shape as my Lewinski boots, and they fit like a glove. I wear them bare foot and they are extremely comfortable. I could wear dress socks if I wanted and they would still be comfortable, though. They have become Summer favourites of mine instantly. I really like the light weight and the supple upper combined with nice layer of leather under foot which feels substantial without feeling bulky. The crepe sole offers a nice grip on most surfaces and is not too soft.

 

Final thoughts:

These were pretty much an experiment and a successful one at that. So much so that I will order another pair of these probably in black pull up leather. I think these are super versatile shoes. I’m also very impressed with the quality of the leather. The landed cost (incl. taxes and delivery) of these in Germany is about 115€ which is amazing for what you get. That does oncourse not include the custom last for my big feet. But to have the opportunity to get a last made so I can get the shoes in my size at all brilliant. So often I’m stuck with more expensive brands and have to pay premium prices because others don’t offer the size I need.

Model and some facts:

Weekender Chukka 3315 Chocolate Muleskinner and 3610 Sandstone Muleskinner.

-          size: US13 / EU 47.

-          length of the insole is: 315mm (ca. 12.4 inch)

-          length over all: 340mm (ca. 13.4 inch)

-          weight per boot: 500g (1lbs 1.5oz)

-          thickness leather upper: ca. 2.3mm (3315) 2.5mm (3610)

The shaft is unlined and the vamp is fabric lined and the heel counter is leather covered.

 

Built, QC:

These are lightweight comfortable summer boots and that is reflected in the built. There is a subtle upper and little lining and next to no leather under foot. I do appreciate that the “Ortholite footbed” is removable. It is very comfortable and I don’t have complaints about it, but I do like the feel of a decent leather insole. I do particular like the 3mm leather insoles made by “Schuhwerk” and put a pair of them in on pair of boots. I will keep the Ortholite in the other to see how that compares. Anyways, it is nice to have the option. QC on both pairs is spot on. I haven’t found anything at all.

Sizing and fit:

My only Redwings so far are Iron Ranger. So, I went to the Düsseldorf (Germany) store specifically to try on and probably buy the 3610 Weekender only to find that the last pair in my size was sold the day before. Slightly disappointed I tried on the 3315 instead just to see how they feel, so I could have the 3610 sent to me when available again.

They felt a bit tight to get in at the instep at first, but once on foot they were incredibly comfortable. Compared to Iron Ranger they feel a bit more snug above the toes but due to the unstructured toe box also very soft. Almost like leather socks, if that makes any sense. They are also incredibly light weight. They felt so good and my wife liked the colour, so I bought them and kept them on. Continuing our shopping I walked a fair bit thereafter.

After an hour or so of wear the upper leather already moulded somewhat to my feet and that was all the break in done. There actually is no real break in at all.

 

That same evening, I went looking for a pair of 3610s online and found them sold out everywhere in Germany but still available at Redwing Amsterdam. So, I placed the order.

 

Final thoughts:

Besides them being so comfortable, I like the look of this new version a lot. The one-piece shaft with the more traditional chukka lines at the lancing and vamp looks very nice and tidy. At the same time going with rather nontraditional visible eyelets gives the whole chukka thing a bit of a more rugged vibe. I think in terms of styling they have done everything right, which of course is a matter of personal taste.

To anyone who is not obsessed with having tons of leather under foot when going on safari in the wilderness but rather wants a comfortable lightweight summer boot for civilised environments I would wholeheartedly recommend these boots. And yes, I’m sure they will survive the odd camping trip or so as well.

PS.:

I do love to have the opportunity to buy Redwings in store. Having a bit of a chat with the very nice guy in the Düsseldorf store always makes spending a significant part of my money a so much more pleasant experience.

It is the little things that make a difference.

Even online, like a handwritten note by someone called Harry at Redwing Amsterdam put in a box. I really like and appreciate these things.