u/Interesting_Host744

Some of you have asked in my previous post (link) how the Kangatan leather compares to the Alpine Portage. Since I have the pleasure to own both I decided to put this in a seperate post.

Both leathers are very similar in surface, temper and touch. Both are dry to the touch and not waxy like the Oro Legacy or Amber Harness. Both have no pullup. From the start they feel slightly thinner but also stiffer than my Amber Harness. If you switched the leathers on either boot you would not notice it unless you looked.

The main difference is the color. The Kangatan green is a touch darker over all. Both are more like olive / military greens, however the Kangatan has a lot more brown to it. So much so, that in some light it apears dark brown an not green at all, which is impossible to fotograph. In good day light as in the pictures the Kangatan looks a bit more like racing green. All in all the apearance of the Alpine quite consitent while the Kangatan's changes quite a bit with different lighting.

I love them both but if I had to choose, I would go for the Kangatan. It's the slightly more interesting color. I'm also very happy that I don't have to choose.

They became available on August 14th at which time it had been ten days after I bought my first ever pair of Moc Toes in Oro-Legacy and I just couldn't resist. They arrived today. That leather looks so much better in real life. Seems as if I'm getting used to wedgesoles after all.

Just spotted some interesting new boots on their US-Mil last sporting some nice leathers froem S.B. Foot. Also an interesting looking black tea core version. I'm currently waiting for some shoes, but I'm also considering a pair of boots for the comming winter. Some tempting stuff there.

Finally I get to wear (and show of) my new Seiko. The original strap was to small for my wrist. I got it closed but it was just too tight. My search for a strap that goes well with the sort of versatile casual elegance of the watch eventually led me to company called "FinWatchStraps. Handmade in Finland".

This was my first buy from them and I am quite pleased with what I got. I ordered end of June but due to the summer holidays in Finland I had to wait till August. The strap is in dark brown Horween CXL leather wich is buttery soft and looks great. The craftsmanship of the strap is excelent as well. This was a custom order, so I could specify the length perfectly for the original Seiko clasp. All in all I'm very happy with this and will probably replace some more straps in my small collection.

Just arrived today from Japan. It's a beauty. I love it.

Model and some facts:

Thursday Premier High Top sneaker in Cacao (dark brown waxed roughout)

-          ordered size: US 13.5.

-          length of the insole: 315mm (ca. 12.4 inch)

-          length over all: 330mm (ca. 13 inch)

-          weight per shoe: 660g (1lbs 7.2oz)

-          thickness of the leather upper: ca. 2.6 mm

 

Built, QC:

The overall construction of these shoes is quite clean and simple. The actual insole seems to be leather and is covered by a removable footbed made of some moulded foam with a thin layer of leather on top. The cup sole is stitched all around to the upper. The upper itself is what makes this sneaker stand out. It is a solid 2.6 mm thick roughout leather, hence the weight of these sneakers. Apart of a single lose bit of thread at the end of a stitching on one shoe QC on my pair was ok. They came with leather laces which I replaced for some reason I can’t remember. Probably just looks.

Sizing and fit:

In my normal Captains I have size 13,5 and in my Presidents 13 Wide. I went with size 13,5. The initial fit was good and felt quite comfortable. There was one issue with some discomfort on my right foot, though. Where the quarter is sown to the vamp / toe box there is a rather pronounced ridge on the inside of the shoe (see picture marked red). That spot rubbed at my pinkie toe in a way that became painful rather quickly. I put a sticky plaster on the inside of the shoe covering that ridge, which kind of softened that edge. That resolved the issue instantly. After a couple of hours wear over the next 2-3 days, I removed said plaster and the problem didn’t come back. By then the initially rather stiff and ridged leather had moulded to my feet quite nicely.

Final thoughts:

I bought these as a replacement for my Timberland Cup Sole shoes and to me they are a significant step up in terms of quality and style at very little extra cost. I paid 180€ including tariffs and taxes. At the time the Timberlands retailed for 160€ in Germany. The construction of the Thursdays is rather simple jet well executed, and the materials used are fairly solid. In particular that upper is very nice. I also have a pair of Captains in Coyote rough out and I love that type of leather in both. Actually, these sneakers were the reason I bought the Captains. The upper just now begins to develop some patina and character. Now that the Timberlands, which these are the replacement for, are finally gone the Thursdays will get a lot more wear. I’m looking forward to how they are going to age.

Model and some facts:

Custom Richie quarter brogue balmoral – Zonta espresso calf

The upper is one of BLKBRDs premium offers namely the Goldanil Aniline box calf sourced from Conceria Zonta Spa in northern Italy. The colour is a dark brown named Espresso.

The sole is a hand welted hidden channel full leather sole with a leather heel stack and a rubber anti-skid patch on the heel.

The shoes are leather lined with the heel lining being suede. There is a full-length sock liner / insole which padded (probably foam) at the heel. The shoes come with an additional pair of foam padded insoles.

The shoes are made to order on the Cuero last.

-          ordered size: EU 48.

-          length of the insole is: 315mm (ca. 12.4 inch)

-          length over all: 345mm (ca. 13.4 inch)

-          weight per shoe: 625g (1lbs 4 oz)

 

Packing, built, QC:

The shoes came in BLKBRDs black shoe box each wrapped in black paper and packed in separate shoe bags. It was part of a delivery of two pairs of shoes, which also included BLKBRDs signature shoehorn.

The ordering process was straight forward since both shoes ordered were basically standard. It did however require a request via email due to the size I need. A last in size 48 was custom made and BLKBRD charged Rs. 1800 (ca.16€) for that. That last was used for both pairs of shoes.

The upper leather on these is flawless as far as I can tell. Even on close inspection I didn’t see any flaws, scuffs from handling or tool marks. The lining seems to be of appropriately high quality as well. The stitching is quite fine and tidy. The welt stitching is five stitches per inch wide and varies for a +/- half a stitch. The edge of the welt is very slightly bevelled. The edge of the sole is also rounded over at the waist. The heel is slightly slanted following the line of the upper. If you look at the shoe from directly above, you can only see the welt at the toe up to the ball. The colour of the heel and sole matches the upper very well.

 

Sizing and fit:

Instead of the original last (FP4) which features a chiselled toe I went with the same last shape and size as my previously ordered Lewinski boots, and they fit perfectly. I’m a 14D on the Brannock. My feet measurements (in dress socks) are length 305mm, ball girth 285mm, instep girth 290mm. The heel feels properly held in place. The upper tucks in nicely underneath the arch at the waist of the shoe offering the middle part of my feet some support. The toe box is generous enough, so nothing feels cramped in or squished together. All in all, BLKBRDs Cuero / Royce last seems to be a very good choice for me.

 

Final thoughts:

The landed cost (incl. taxes and delivery) of these in Germany was about 265€. For that I got shoes which are handmade, hand-welted from quality materials including prime calf leather from a well-known Italian tannery. I also got construction features like the hidden channel outsole with some fiddle waist. All of it very well executed. Even the packing was done as it should with the shoes well wrapped and each put in its separate shoe bag. On top of that comes a high level of possible customization. In this case I specified the last, the leather, and the sole construction at practically no extra cost. The only extra I had to pay on top was the 17€ for the last in size 48EU for my big feet. To have that opportunity is a big plus for me, well worth the few Euros. I’m not an expert in fine shoes by any means, but to me the value of these shoes is amazing. I really love these shoes, and I will buy from BLKBRD again. In fact, I already have.

Delivery time to Germany was four weeks.

Custom VALENTIN in Opera Olive Go Rain suede - EUR 48 Crueo last. This is meant to be a casual Summer whole cut oxford, which sounds like a contraditction in terms. I believe they will work raher well with chinos or even denim.

Custom TRAVERS Slip on in black pull up - EUR 48 Crueo last. When I got the brown ones, it was almost immediately clear that I would need a black pair, too.

First impression on both is brilliant.

Model and some facts:

Thursday Executive cap toe oxford in Brandy and Black

-          ordered size: US 13 wide

-          length of the insole is: 320mm (ca. 12.6 inch)

-          length over all: 345mm (ca. 13.6 inch)

-          weight per shoe: 720g (1lbs 9oz)

 

I bought the brown pair in April 25 and the black pair in August 25. Obviously, the brown pair has been worn quite significantly more than the black ones. The difference in wear on the leather soles is less than I expected. The soles are holding up quite nicely. Both have been treated with shoe cream once or twice. Apart from that I brushed them a bit usually after every wear.

Built, QC:

As their weight suggests the overall construction of these shoes is quite substantial. They have a 5mm leather out sole and what looks like a 3mm leather mid sole as well as a leather heel stack. The welt on the black pair is sanded down rather close to the stitching on one side of each shoe which might possibly make a new welt necessary in case of a resole. In terms of QC that is the only critic I have. The leather on both is of very decent quality with no obvious flaws. It is not excessively stiff and break in wasn’t a big issue really. There is some creasing but nothing unexpected. I use shoe trees. The burnishing on the Brandy leather is very nicely done and looks a lot better in real life than on the web site.

 

Sizing and fit:

In my Captains I have size 13,5 and in my Presidents 13 Wide and the later worked fine with these, too. The last is very comfortable. I had no pressure points or anything. Given the amount of leather under foot, break in was negligible. The Poron insole might have contributed to that.

 

Final thoughts:

I usually stay away from chiselled or square toes in shoes. Mostly because I find the normally elongated chiselled toe box of most European dress shoes looks like a medieval jester’s shoe in my size. That is to say: weird. So, I usually gravitate to more almond shaped toes as with traditional English style lasts. These are different, however. They are not so pointed and look more relaxed or casual. And that is how I wear them. With a pair of jeans or chinos like smart casual to casual. The leather of both pairs is quite nice, and the Brandy leather in particular just starts to develop some patina / character that goes very well with denim. To me they are both not the mirror polished business or evening dress shoe worn with a suite. Though I believe with a bit of wax and elbow grease they could be taken there.

Even though Thursday might not be the first name that comes to mind when it’s about dress shoes, they are worth having a look at. At 195€ including tax and tariffs the value to cost ratio of these is very good. I’m quite pleased with my purchase and the way those shoes aged so far. Certainly, enough so that I would buy them again.

Model and some facts:

Thursday Executive cap toe oxford in Brandy and Black

-          ordered size: US 13 wide

-          length of the insole is: 320mm (ca. 12.6 inch)

-          length over all: 345mm (ca. 13.6 inch)

-          weight per shoe: 720g (1lbs 9oz)

 

I bought the brown pair in April 25 and the black pair in August 25. Obviously, the brown pair has been worn quite significantly more than the black ones. The difference in wear on the leather soles is less than I expected. The soles are holding up quite nicely. Both have been treated with shoe cream once or twice. Apart from that I brushed them a bit usually after every wear.

Built, QC:

As their weight suggests the overall construction of these shoes is quite substantial. They have a 5mm leather out sole and what looks like a 3mm leather mid sole as well as a leather heel stack. The welt on the black pair is sanded down rather close to the stitching on one side of each shoe which might possibly make a new welt necessary in case of a resole. In terms of QC that is the only critic I have. The leather on both is of very decent quality with no obvious flaws. It is not excessively stiff and break in wasn’t a big issue really. There is some creasing but nothing unexpected. I use shoe trees. The burnishing on the Brandy leather is very nicely done and looks a lot better in real life than on the web site.

 

Sizing and fit:

In my Captains I have size 13,5 and in my Presidents 13 Wide and the later worked fine with these, too. The last is very comfortable. I had no pressure points or anything. Given the amount of leather under foot, break in was negligible. The Poron insole might have contributed to that.

 

Final thoughts:

I usually stay away from chiselled or square toes in shoes. Mostly because I find the normally elongated chiselled toe box of most European dress shoes looks like a medieval jester’s shoe in my size. That is to say: weird. So, I usually gravitate to more almond shaped toes as with traditional English style lasts. These are different, however. They are not so pointed and look more relaxed or casual. And that is how I wear them. With a pair of jeans or chinos like smart casual to casual. The leather of both pairs is quite nice, and the Brandy leather in particular just starts to develop some patina / character that goes very well with denim. To me they are both not the mirror polished business or evening dress shoe worn with a suite. Though I believe with a bit of wax and elbow grease they could be taken there.

Even though Thursday might not be the first name that comes to mind when it’s about dress shoes, they are worth having a look at. At 195€ including tax and tariffs the value to cost ratio of these is very good. I’m quite pleased with my purchase and the way those shoes aged so far. Certainly, enough so that I would buy them again.

Just got a mail introducing the unlined derby. The link then takes me to some very lined shoes. Am I missing something?

Model and some facts:

Travers, All in One Slipon - Pullup Brown

It features a partly foam backed leather insole, a thick (ca. 5 mm) leather midsole and a natural crepe rubber outsole and heel.

It is a stitch down construction made from BLKBRDs brown pull up leather. The website shows an unlined pair and states “unlined” in the product description; the actual shoes I received however are fully lined in brown leather. There are some pictures od customer shoes shown with the reviews, which all show lined shoes. The last used is the Cuero, which according to Mukul from BLK BRD is the same as Royce.

-          ordered size: EU 48.

-          length of the insole is: 315mm (ca. 12.4 inch)

-          length over all: 340mm (ca. 13.4 inch)

-          weight per boot: 500g (1lbs 1.6 oz)

-          thickness leather upper: ca. 1.8mm plus lining ca. 1mm.

 

Packing, built, QC:

The shoes came in BLKBRDs nice black shoe box wrapped in black paper. Included was one larger shoe bag. It was part of a delivery of two pairs of shoes, which also included BLKBRDs signature shoehorn.

The ordering process was straight forward since both shoes ordered were basically standard. It did however require a request via email due to the size I need. A last in size 48 was custom made and BLKBRD charged Rs. 1800 (ca.16€) for that. That last was used for both pairs of shoes.

 

The built quality on these shoes is very good. I have not found a single obvious flaw like loose threads, wonky stitching or defects in the leather. I find the craftsmanship and attention to detail is actually quite amazing. The stitching on the upper is very clean and tidy I counted 10-11 stitches per inch. The sole is apparently handstitched, and stitching is about 7 mm wide and varies by roughly +/- 0.5 mm. There are no wonky stitches, and it looks very well executed. The upper itself has a slightly waxy feel to the touch and feels quite supple yet substantial. The leather is not as matte as it appears on the website but has a rather nice subtle shine to it. It also has a noticeable pull up. It creases rather easily but I find that goes rather nicely with the casual vibe of these shoes. The lining is a dark smooth leather except for the heel where it is suede. It is nothing extraordinary, but it is of decent quality and well done. The insole is a very thin leather backed with a bit of foam at the rear half of the shoe and some fabric at the toe. It is lightly glued in yet quite easily removable.

 

Sizing and fit:

I went with the same size and last shape as my Lewinski boots, and they fit like a glove. I wear them bare foot and they are extremely comfortable. I could wear dress socks if I wanted and they would still be comfortable, though. They have become Summer favourites of mine instantly. I really like the light weight and the supple upper combined with nice layer of leather under foot which feels substantial without feeling bulky. The crepe sole offers a nice grip on most surfaces and is not too soft.

 

Final thoughts:

These were pretty much an experiment and a successful one at that. So much so that I will order another pair of these probably in black pull up leather. I think these are super versatile shoes. I’m also very impressed with the quality of the leather. The landed cost (incl. taxes and delivery) of these in Germany is about 115€ which is amazing for what you get. That does oncourse not include the custom last for my big feet. But to have the opportunity to get a last made so I can get the shoes in my size at all brilliant. So often I’m stuck with more expensive brands and have to pay premium prices because others don’t offer the size I need.

Model and some facts:

Weekender Chukka 3315 Chocolate Muleskinner and 3610 Sandstone Muleskinner.

-          size: US13 / EU 47.

-          length of the insole is: 315mm (ca. 12.4 inch)

-          length over all: 340mm (ca. 13.4 inch)

-          weight per boot: 500g (1lbs 1.5oz)

-          thickness leather upper: ca. 2.3mm (3315) 2.5mm (3610)

The shaft is unlined and the vamp is fabric lined and the heel counter is leather covered.

 

Built, QC:

These are lightweight comfortable summer boots and that is reflected in the built. There is a subtle upper and little lining and next to no leather under foot. I do appreciate that the “Ortholite footbed” is removable. It is very comfortable and I don’t have complaints about it, but I do like the feel of a decent leather insole. I do particular like the 3mm leather insoles made by “Schuhwerk” and put a pair of them in on pair of boots. I will keep the Ortholite in the other to see how that compares. Anyways, it is nice to have the option. QC on both pairs is spot on. I haven’t found anything at all.

Sizing and fit:

My only Redwings so far are Iron Ranger. So, I went to the Düsseldorf (Germany) store specifically to try on and probably buy the 3610 Weekender only to find that the last pair in my size was sold the day before. Slightly disappointed I tried on the 3315 instead just to see how they feel, so I could have the 3610 sent to me when available again.

They felt a bit tight to get in at the instep at first, but once on foot they were incredibly comfortable. Compared to Iron Ranger they feel a bit more snug above the toes but due to the unstructured toe box also very soft. Almost like leather socks, if that makes any sense. They are also incredibly light weight. They felt so good and my wife liked the colour, so I bought them and kept them on. Continuing our shopping I walked a fair bit thereafter.

After an hour or so of wear the upper leather already moulded somewhat to my feet and that was all the break in done. There actually is no real break in at all.

 

That same evening, I went looking for a pair of 3610s online and found them sold out everywhere in Germany but still available at Redwing Amsterdam. So, I placed the order.

 

Final thoughts:

Besides them being so comfortable, I like the look of this new version a lot. The one-piece shaft with the more traditional chukka lines at the lancing and vamp looks very nice and tidy. At the same time going with rather nontraditional visible eyelets gives the whole chukka thing a bit of a more rugged vibe. I think in terms of styling they have done everything right, which of course is a matter of personal taste.

To anyone who is not obsessed with having tons of leather under foot when going on safari in the wilderness but rather wants a comfortable lightweight summer boot for civilised environments I would wholeheartedly recommend these boots. And yes, I’m sure they will survive the odd camping trip or so as well.

PS.:

I do love to have the opportunity to buy Redwings in store. Having a bit of a chat with the very nice guy in the Düsseldorf store always makes spending a significant part of my money a so much more pleasant experience.

It is the little things that make a difference.

Even online, like a handwritten note by someone called Harry at Redwing Amsterdam put in a box. I really like and appreciate these things.