Vallisaari in early September
After Suomenlinna, I wanted to see another island.
At the Market Square, the crowds rushed onto the ferry for Suomenlinna. I went the other way, and boarded a smaller boat to Vallisaari with maybe five other people. It was still early on a Thursday morning. We had the place more or less to ourselves.
At first, Vallisaari felt somehow confined. You stick to the marked trails, and for good reason; this was a military island for generations, and apparently old explosives still turn up. The old batteries and fortifications scattered through the woods mostly date from the Russian era, when the island was heavily fortified after the Crimean War.
But the longer I walked, the less confined it felt, and the island opened up. Forest, sea, old stones, overgrown bunkers and long empty paths. Really quiet. The summer season was clearly over. Cafés and terraces were all closed, with several signs promising ‘See you in 2027!’, it felt slightly surreal while standing there in early September.
No crowds. No queues (and no coffee...). Wonderful walking, and great views across the water. It felt like somewhere I’d accidentally been allowed into after everyone else had gone home.