u/J_Wren
Hello,
This is my second fight stick based off of another design I shared here called the "Quasi-Modu." I call it the Domino, since its two sets of dots separated by a vertical bar. Everything is broken out into individual modules so that if I ever wanted to change a single part I wouldn't need to print the whole thing over again. Small modular prints also take the sting out of a print failing at 93% completion. I wanted the aesthetic to resemble something you might see in a bowling alley in the 80s since that was my first experience with arcades.
Here are some features I am proud of.
Center Bar All hot-swappable thanks to the little Amoeba Royale PCBs. This can take a max of 5 switches, but can be configured to house a variety of layouts.
Anti-yank mooring Small mooring you can loop the cable around so disaster might be avoided when your pet darts in-front of you.
RP2040 housing If you ever want to use this board for a hand-wired stick, make a little cage for it to screw down while you're installing everything. It makes sandwich designed cases less frustrating to assemble. The housing I designed allows access to the BOOT and RESET buttons which also help secure the MCU in place when plugging/unplugging it.
Fan Screw Panels If you've ever built a PC or even purchased case fans, you probably have spare fan screws. I wanted to find a use for them and now they fasten the maintenance hatches.
For those who come after. If you're thinking about making your own fight stick or are in the midst of building one here are some lessons I learned which you might find helpful.
- Paint your 3d print if you love sanding, and add tolerance for any painted mated parts.
- If you do paint, you want Automotive FILLER primer for the first two layers at least.
- 22-24 AWG solid core wire is easiest to work with when soldering traces.
- If you want to add rubber bumpons, you can add a draft angle of 19 degrees so that they're inset into the print.
- Cost:
| Part | Qty | Cost(USD) |
|---|---|---|
| PhreakMod Detachable Lever | 1 | 27.95 |
| Omeron Reed switchs | 4 | 26.75 |
| Otto JLF DIY v5 | 1 | 23.81 |
| D44X Tactile Switches | 4 | 18.66 |
| Kailh Deep Sea Switches | 8 | 9.53 |
| Buttons hitbox 23.5mm | 8 | 8.86 |
| Small Universal Plate | 1 | 8.95 |
| Kailh MX-hot swap sockets | 5 | 7.50 |
| JLF Alu Actuator | 1 | 3.95 |
| JLF 2lb Spring | 1 | 1.25 |
| Shiruken PCB | 1 | 4.00 |
| RP2040 | 1 | 1.73 |
| Amoeba Royales | 5 | 0.70 |
| Diodes | 5 | 0.20 |
| JLF E-Clip | 2 | 3.90 |
| Ball Top | 1 | 2.45 |
| M3x10 CS Screws | 50 | 1.39 |
| M3x30 CS Screws | 50 | 2.61 |
| M4x12 PH Screws | 10 | 1.64 |
| M4x30 HT Screws | 10 | 2.95 |
| M4xL4xOD5 Heat Inserts | 30 | 1.88 |
| Kailh low-pro hot-swap sockets | 50 | 4.87 |
| Docking Connectors | 50 | 1.59 |
| Wires | 3ft | 1.00 |
| Fan Screws | 12 | Free |
| Bumpons 10mm | 50 | 0.96 |
| PETG Filament | 169(m) | 14.63 |
| Primer | 1 can | 7.48 |
| Paint | 3 | 20.94 |
| Primer | 1 | 7.48 |
| TOTAL | --- | 219.61 |
*NOTE: you can absolutely build it for less if you know exactly the kinds of hardware you want to use. I purchased 8 switches for the lever because I didn't know if I wanted tactile or silent.
BUILD YOUR OWN
STL FILES
Licensed under the Creative Commons Int. 4.0. Attribution and non-commercial.
I also have a general build guide in the images if you need an idea of how it's put together.
u/J_Wren — 21 days ago