u/Jean-Michael_Rage

Image 1 — OEM Hitch Wiring Adapter
Image 2 — OEM Hitch Wiring Adapter

OEM Hitch Wiring Adapter

So I am looking for an adapter for the OEM wiring to connect trailer lights. I bought a 7blade to 4 pin adapter, but it doesn't seem to want to be inserted. I have literally never connected one before.

To my untrained eye, the male pins are too wide to fit into this socket.

I went to a farm and fleet who had a variety of trailer wiring accessories, and I didn't see anything that would fit.

I tried using AI to see if the OEM was anything weird and it kept saying it was a standard 7 pin blade RV connection. I browse Amazon and again, didn't see anything different that what I already have.

Am I just not being forceful enough has anyone successfully connected trailer lighting to a new 2026 harness?

Any help would be appreciated.

u/Jean-Michael_Rage — 20 hours ago

My Review of Amazon Auto

Hey all, I just wanted to drop a note to say that if anyone is looking to buy brand new, I can now wholeheartedly endorse Amazon Auto :)

This is truly a game changer and I hope they expand to more brands.

The process is really all done all online except signing the final paperwork at the dealership.

Pricing is all visible online. I was looking for the 2026 Hybrid Calligraphy with a specific color combo. Within 150 miles of my location there were only 6 to choose from, but here's the thing, there were all for different prices. So took a look at the window sticker you see the stuff that was 'added on' figured there was some dealer stuff on some of them.

I can't list it out, but for the 'most' part they were comparable. Maybe one or two had the $250 mud flaps first aid kits, and carpets floor mats, but I could honestly find examples and compare two identical models and they would have two different prices from two different dealerships!!! Seriously . Apples to Apples. When it wasn't identical I was able to see what was added on and at what price.

Here's the kicker, of the 6 I found, the cheapest one I found didn't have those pricey mudflaps, you know what it did have? Factory installed Trailer Hitch.

Let me repeat this back to you. The brand new car I bought, was the cheapest one on my list with the least amount of add ons and the ONLY one with a trailer hitch.

No Haggling over the mud flap prices, no having to ask the manager to work with a vendor to get a hitch installed. NONE of that.

Once I saw that, I went further in the process online.

Next was a REAL payment calculator. Not the kind you see on Manufacturer site which low ball you into thinking you are getting a $300 payment and visiting a dealer. Seriously, Taxes, license transfer fees, it is ALL right there. Currently Hyundai incentives and promotion Interest rates (First responder and veteran discounts if applicable).

Okay, I got a trade in, now what? Well, I give them my vin answer honestly, including that my check engine light was on, and they gave me 3 different estimates (Fair, Good, and Excellent conditions, just like KBB.

Now, I will say that their offering was about $1k-$1200 lower in each category than KBB. However, In my experience, so does the dealer. I literally have never gotten KBB for anything, unless of course I bought something additional from the dealer that i wasn't planning to buy (like those $250 mud flaps).

Oh Speaking of which, Did you want a extended warranty? Interior/exterior maintenance plan? Engine Maintenance plan? Amazon lists them out. You chose whether you feel there is value in them, and the prices are right there. You can google them and see where they rank against what other pay for them. Again, all your personal preference and choice. You don't want them, you don't check the box.

I took a look at their Fair condition offer, and I was at peace with it.

Okay I'm liking these numbers. Let's do this!

Amazon ran credit on the dealer's behalf, had to upload a copy of my Drivers license, got approval in like 10 minutes. Everything lines up exactly as it calculated. It offered me a date (within 4 days i think) to schedule a time to inspect and pick up the car before the offer would expire. I did this on Monday Afternoon, so I chose Wednesday evening. Amazon notes, that the deal will contact me to confirm that they have the car.

Ahhhhhh... Here we go, the start of the bait and switch right?

Tuesday I got a call from the Sales guy at the dealership. They confirmed they have the car, they have pulled the key and docket so nobody else can sell it,and that i need to bring proof of insurance with me, or I can text it to him. (I checked the dealer's web inventory and indeed my car had disappears from it as well as Amazon auto. Cool Beans.

I get to the dealership a little early, text the sales guy, he meets me but has someone at his desk. Car is up front, ready for me to inspect, and test drive, Tells he needs about 15 minutes but I can take my time with the car. So I Do!!! He also asks me for the key to my trade in so the appraise can be confirmed.

I drive the new away from the dealership, and do my best to inspect it without the pressure of someone being with me. I probably was away about 25 minutes.

Come back from the test drive, and sit down with the sales guy. Yes, he tries to sell me Ceramic coating and interior protection I say no. He asks if it is because of the cost, he can work with me, I say I'm not interested, I declined them on Amazon, and we move on. (Damn it feels good to be a gangsta).

Admittedly there was some haggling over my trade in value that Amazon was giving me. I agreed to give them $300 off what amazon quoted. But in reality, I have been worried about my theta2 going boom, especially due to an an event literally on the drive to the dealership where I suddenly smelled burning oil in the cabin for the first time ever. I honestly don't know if I would have conceded that $$$ if that event didn't happen. But knowing my history of luck, the motor would seize while they were moving the car to their back lot or something and then I get $0.

Okay, all done there on to the finance manager. He admitted he had never done an Amazon Auto purchase before. He tried to talk me into using a different brand extended warranty that would be cheaper that the one I get through Hyundai's preferred underwriter, and he can even make it even more cheaper if I agree to do the service exclusively through his service department. He starts to draw how the price comparison and i tell him I get a $1500 gift card from amazon for taking their deal as is. 'Oh' and he puts the paper away. (Damn it feels good to be a gangsta).

I digitally sign everything and everything matched what I printed out from amazon, (except that $300) sign over my trade in, and I am out the door!!!

Your mileage may vary, but I feel I got a fair deal and the dealer made some money. I can't go back to the old way of buying cars after this experience.

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u/Jean-Michael_Rage — 11 days ago

ICE vs Hybrid after the warranty expires

It seems like the auto industry deliberately wants people with an infinite amount of car payments.

We are a high mileage household. One of us is averaging about 1650 miles per month. The other is just below that at around 1450.

We just crossed 155k only our ICE Sante Fe and 88k on our hybrid (2019 and 2022) respectively.

I remember being worried about hybrid related repairs or cost to replace the battery. However, none have come up.

What has come up for the hybrid, is repairs for gas tank door actuator ($1800) and Belt Tensioner ($4800). Now in both of those cases, we were saved by the Vehicle Service Contract. We had to pay our deductible plus the BS dealership parts which are not covered as they are wear and tear. So our out of pocket was much less than that.

However I do not consider those a product of it being a hybrid. The gas cap actuator, I consider a defect from the first year of the model (Tuscon). The cost was so high as you had to replace it going through the trunk and was labor intensive essentially dismantling the interior including the back seat. . The best tension, was part of the ICE, so that could happen to any ICE.

For the ICE (Santa Fe) , I have only had the Theta2 oil drinking which I managed by adding oil and recently have encountered a problem with some sort of timing issue throwing the CEL on (P0010). This will be my first time I would have to pay $$$ to get it fixed as my warranty has long since expired.

I am not certain if I will pay to repair my ICE. I am worried that there are problems related to the constant oil level fluctuation in the engine. On at least one occasion they couldn't get a reading on a dipstick when I brought it in for an oil change. (I keep an eye on it like an hawk now). The local non-dealership saying they would have to open the motor to see what is going on with the cam. SO it is a potential good money after bad type situation.

My question for the masses is simple. All things being equal, in 2026, which type of vehicle do you believe stands a better chance of being less costly after the warranty expires?

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u/Jean-Michael_Rage — 15 days ago

Fireworks to Celebrate Canada Day?

Hello Sudbury Friends!

I was planning on making a visit from the US for the Weekend of July 4th. I am bringing dogs, two of which are extremely susceptible to fireworks noise.

In the US, it is quite commonplace for the week leading up to US Independence day for people to blow off fireworks in their yards. When Independence day falls during the week, many cities hold their municipal firework shows on the weekend. So it is pretty much a full week+ nightmare for my doggos.

What is Canada Day Like in Sudbury? It falls on a Wednesday, and as far as I can tell, I have only found references to fireworks for July 1st. Is it common that there will be other Fireworks events planned for the weekend? Do regular people tend to buy their own fireworks and blow them off to celebrate?

I appreciate any info you all have.

Thank you!

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u/Jean-Michael_Rage — 25 days ago