In the circled black cap in the photo is there supposed to be a fuse inside that when it is unscrewed? It is currently empty, but the charger works perfectly, but my understanding is if something was to shorten the charger would be damaged instead of the fuse getting blown if they’re supposed to be one
Sur Ron LBX / Segway X260 with BAC4000 on stock battery. Trying to diagnose recurring cutout/stutter issue.
Symptoms/history:
Originally bike would ride fine for 5–10 mins, then throttle/motor would suddenly cut.
After power cycling breaker, motor would stutter/jerk or have no throttle response.
Sometimes lights stayed on while throttle failed.
One time after hard full-throttle downhill/uphill run, whole bike shut off including lights, then came back after breaker reset (suspect BMS trip / battery sag).
Random behavior after resets: sometimes stutter for a few seconds, sometimes no response.
Repairs already done:
Replaced original motor with known good used motor.
Replaced hall sensor issues by swapping complete motor.
Re-did phase wire ring terminals / lugs on both sides.
Replaced DC-DC converter (lights now stable).
Rear tube/tire fixed.
Ordered new battery lead/connector harness (old negative lead looked loose/damaged).
Ordered new 125A breaker (old 100A breaker inconsistent / display sometimes dim after switching on).
Current status:
With new motor bike rode strong and smooth for multiple rides.
Still cuts out under hard load sometimes.
Later reverted to same old stutter/no-throttle issue.
Pressing/moving loose battery negative lead sometimes changes symptoms.
Questions:
Does this sound mainly like failing breaker / bad battery lead causing unstable controller power?
Could BAC4000 stock tune on stock battery be causing BMS cutouts from too much battery amps?
Could controller itself be failing, or is that less likely given it runs strong when working?
Any app recommendations to access BAC4000 settings via Bluetooth (BACDisplay / EggRider / other)?
Goal is reliable running bike for sale, no random cutouts/stutter.
Need some help from anyone who’s worked on early Segway/Surron motors.
I’ve got a 2017-era motor (11100-YQ2A-0200). Bike was running but had intermittent stutter/cutouts. Messing with the hall sensor wiring would make it work again, so I figured it was a wiring issue.
I replaced the hall sensor with the common replacement (same one sold for LBX/X160/X260), wired everything correctly, and now:
bike powers on
I get a click on throttle
but ZERO motor spin
Tried all hall wire orders, same result.
What’s confusing me:
The original sensor had 2 extra wires (white + another from inside motor) that tie into the harness. New sensors don’t have these at all and I don’t see them in any tutorials.
Has anyone dealt with this on early Segway motors?
Do those extra wires matter?
Or are newer hall sensors just not compatible with these early motors?
Debating just swapping to another early motor but wanted to check before I do.