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u/KingPappas

r/reenactors r/ESLegal r/AbioticFactor r/rhino r/computers r/HandToolRescue r/handtools r/ancientrome r/propmaking r/Astroneer
▲ 6 r/handtools

I'm a little confused with the sharpening angles of crosscut saws.

Hi. After having sharpened 3 ripsaws I'm now delving into sharpening another 3 crosscut saws. I was thinking of 5, 7 and 9 TPI (would it be more appropriate to talk about PPI?) to have saws for coarse, medium and fine cutting and I wanted to sharpen them with the rake angles appropriate for the task, which I suppose should be different on each saw, since with the 5 TPI one what I want is to cut fast and with the 9 one I want a clean cut. I've seen the Blackburn Tools article with the attached table of sharpening angles, but I need to understand it all a little better. I understand that the lower the rake the faster it will cut, and the more fleam the cleaner, but I don't know how much fleam affects cutting speed and even less the implication of slope beyond creating a more resistant point. I also see that in the table the file angle that determines the rake should be less than the final actual rake of the tooth, although I don't understand why this is so. I work almost exclusively with hardwoods and I was trying to determine the 3 sharpening angles (rake, fleam, slope) that would be most convenient for my case. I know that a choice of angles chosen a bit by eye is going to work, but surely a well thought out one would be capable of better results and would help me understand this matter better.

P.S. is the file size for sharpening crosscut saws the same as for ripsaws?

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u/KingPappas — 14 days ago
▲ 8 r/HandToolRescue

Fixing TPI on a saw

Hello. I have this Keen Kutter saw that I'm finishing restoring, and I was sharpening it when I noticed it has a variable TPI. From the heel to the first half (a tiny bit more, actually) it has a TPI of 3 1/2, freshly sharpened. Then the first 2.5" can be sharpened at 4 1/2 without a problem, but the problem is that the zone in between isn't even 4 TPI, but rather is more or less there but irregular, oscillating between something like 3.75-4.25. I know I could simply sharpen it maintaining irregular spacing, but it gives me a bit of OCD. I wouldn't want to have to file all the teeth to redo them, since I'd lose a lot of blade and it would be a lot of work. Is there any way, even a progressive one, to restore this so that this intermediate zone has at least a homogeneous 4 TPI?

u/KingPappas — 28 days ago
▲ 38 r/Astroneer

My second planet: Calidor. I thought about going quickly to grab the essentials and leave. In the end, I established a good base, filled practically all the containers with as many materials as I could, and it's in better condition than my main base on Sylva.

It turns out there was a landing zone about 200m from this structure that I could see from orbit. I was shocked, since this is the first time I've seen this, having been away from the game for years. The platform is half floating, since underneath there's a huge entrance to the caves, which I took advantage of to make my way to the core.

u/KingPappas — 1 month ago
▲ 5 r/computers

Fake HDD.

I've been dumping data from my father's 3.5" HDD to an external 2.5" HDD, since I needed to change the partition table format on the 3.5" drive, and since I would lose the data in the process, I had to make a backup. I took both drives to my place and connected them to my PC. I started copying the data: 30GB at first (out of 800GB), and it took 4 hours. Very strange. At first I didn't pay much attention, thinking maybe it had thousands of tiny files, which can severely slow down transfer speeds, but as I continued with the second batch, I saw that the transfer speed never exceeded 7MB/s at best, and it was very common to see it at 200KB/s, and very frequently at 0KB/s, i.e., stalled. That was strange.

https://preview.redd.it/pysbgbomxqmh1.png?width=2048&format=png&auto=webp&s=648436baad72119a9b849b9a16d1823a1a136107

Since my dad and technology don't get along well, I thought maybe he was using an old USB2 cable, but even then, the transfer speed should have been much higher. There was something else, something telling me the problem was in the hardware. My dad had the cable taped to the HDD case connector because he said it moved. I removed the tape to unplug the cable and plug it back in to see if there was a connection fault causing such low transfer speeds. When I tried to plug it back in, the connector pushed into the case, making it impossible to connect the cable. At that moment, I looked at the case more closely. It had no screws, just two solder points. It also had no logo, suspicious. I realized at that moment it weighed very little, abnormally little. An HDD would weigh hundreds of grams more... that's when I realized he had probably been scammed, and inside was a handful of cheap, low-capacity memory chips with a faked capacity connected together. I managed to open the case. It was as I suspected.

All this after having "copied" the core of my father's important data from the 3.5" drive, so my dad just lost all his important data because he thought he'd found a great deal on a 12TB HDD for just over €50. I don't think the total capacity of those chips exceeds 2GB in total, and I "copied" over 80GB (it took 2 days with the PC running 24/7). I hope he's learned his lesson, and I hope people don't trust themselves to be smart or lucky when finding something incredible at 1/4 of the real price. Be cautious.

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u/KingPappas — 1 month ago
▲ 6 r/Astroneer

I want to flatten the floor of my base and paint it the same dark gray that's under my shelter, but I don't know how to do it.

Hello. I'm really not clear on how to do it. I know you can flatten terrain and create a floor aligned with a single plane, but I'd like to know if it's possible to flatten it following the curvature of the planet itself so that there are no steps at the edge if I make a large flat platform. On the other hand, I'd like it to be the same color as the ground under my shelter, so there are no patches of color and everything has the same concrete color. I made the terrain analyzer and the inhibitor, but I don't understand how to do this. Do I need any other objects as well?

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u/KingPappas — 2 months ago
▲ 3 r/handtools

Handsaws questions

Recently I've been buying some saws to restore and I was looking at how to sharpen them and with what TPI. I'm going to leave some of them with the same TPI, but in others I'm going to file all the teeth to retooth them. I bought them all online and sometimes the ads didn't say their TPI, or whether they were rip or crosscut, so it's been a bit of a lottery, but I was planning to retooth some of them anyway. I've had some difficulty identifying some of them, because as I've noted, they all have a pretty noticeable rake and I barely noticed any fleam on the teeth. Especially puzzling was a W. Tyzack and Sons with a 25° rake but with no apparent fleam. The same happened to me with two other rips with a 20° rake, but as I've noted, they all have 10° or more. My approach was to have a set of aggressive rip and crosscut saws (3 1/2 TPI), medium (5-6 TPI), and a finer one (8-9 TPI), since I'm only going to work by hand and I have a wide range of board thicknesses, from 25 to 100mm thick. Does my approach make sense? I could post some photos of the teeth of each one on Monday to help with identification.

Another point I don't know how to do is change the rake. It seems the saws were sharpened entirely by eye, and I want to change the rake to 0 for a really aggressive cut, but I don't know how to do it without filing the tooth completely and starting from 0, which would be a lot of work and loss of metal. Can it be sharpened in some way to avoid doing it that way?

I'm adding an image with a table of the saws and their characteristics.

https://preview.redd.it/guldf6o7zrkh1.png?width=537&format=png&auto=webp&s=938d96129f955e10a429c84b83b0b705d454683e

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u/KingPappas — 2 months ago
▲ 48 r/Astroneer

I just reinstalled Astroneer after years without playing and I'm really looking forward to it. I've checked the updates on Steam and I see there's a DLC called Mechatech. I'm not clear on what it consists of. Is it just cosmetic or does it add interesting new content? Is it worth buying?

Essentially what the title says. I stopped playing before the 1.0 version of the game even came out, I think, and I've been very disconnected from everything new that there is now and the new things it has.

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u/KingPappas — 2 months ago
▲ 0 r/rhino

How to create a surface or solid from curves?

https://preview.redd.it/whtupng3v5hh1.png?width=1258&format=png&auto=webp&s=30ac3c86b399b41781dd87784870c9dac437da99

Hello, I'm very new to CAD design; I only use Rhino for very basic things, blocks, and stuff like that. I needed to create a surface or a solid with this geometry, which is essentially a kind of cylinder, but bulging. I've tried the Patch command, but it doesn't work well for me. I also tried first creating a solid with the shape of a cylinder and then, together with Patch, deforming it according to the curves that will give it the bulging profile. Maybe it's the right tool, but I'm not doing it correctly. How should I do this?

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u/KingPappas — 2 months ago
▲ 13 r/handtools

Don't they make taps and dies in wood anymore? Everything I see is yellow plastic. I wanted to make wooden screws and I don't feel like making the tool myself. Do they at least work well?

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u/KingPappas — 3 months ago
▲ 19 r/ESLegal

El vendedor me reclama por un error suyo en el envio

Hola. Compre en una web de suministros 10 limas por unos 13€. La descripción del articulo pone "Venta en caja completa de 10 uds. (no se vende suelto)", por lo cual compre ahí, ya que en otros sitios estaba mucho mas caro. Tras recibir el paquete con la caja de 10 uds. me escribe por Whatsapp para reclamarme, ya que dice que "lo solicitado y pagado es solo una unidad". Tengo derecho a quedarme el producto y a ignorar su reclamacion? Debo contestarle o puedo simplemente ignorarle?

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u/KingPappas — 3 months ago
▲ 2 r/handtools

Need help for restore this saw plate and identifying an etching

Hello. I'm restoring this old Tyzack saw with a Warranted Superior medallion, and I've noticed that it has a faint inscription etched into one side of the blade. Looks made for the user or for a gift.

On the one hand, I'd like to sand and polish the blade until it's bright again, but I'm afraid that doing so would erase the inscription, which is already somewhat worn. I wouldn't mind leaving the blade as it is if that's the only way to preserve it, but I'd also like to ask for some help because I can't make out what the inscription says. English is not my native language.

u/KingPappas — 3 months ago
▲ 18 r/handtools

Restoring a Stained Warranted Superior Saw Handle

I'm restoring this Warranted Superior handsaw and wanted to refinish the handle. However, as I was planing it to remove the old finish and expose clean wood, I realized that the wood itself has been stained. The stain has penetrated deeply, and removing it completely would require taking away a significant amount of wood, leaving the handle noticeably thinner, especially around the horns.

I'd like to know what my options are and how I could deal with this. I'd rather not make a new handle, as I would prefer to preserve the original one. However, the greenish stain looks quite ugly and I'd really like to see the natural wood. I'm not sure whether the handle is beech or a similar species.

u/KingPappas — 4 months ago
▲ 68 r/AbioticFactor

I just came in through the ceiling of this security office after hacking the turret system. I would like to set up my base here since it is totally safe as long as I don't unlock the doors. Can you show me your bases to give me ideas?

I removed the corpses, the bloodstains are still there, but that curved blue thing on the wall worries me. It looks like an unfinished temporary model.

u/KingPappas — 4 months ago
▲ 578 r/propmaking+2 crossposts

I made a huge Roman shield with wooden slats, horsehide, natural glue and paint, and forged fittings. Let me explain how.

Salvete fellow romans.

I made this enormous Republican era shield based mainly on an actual find from Egypt, but with some artistic license. Curved Roman shields like this one were made of a plywood consisting usually of 3 layers of thin slats between 1-3mm thick. They were thin indeed! I used a thickness of 2mm for each layer. The central layer has about 9-10 very wide slats, and the two horizontal layers are narrower, about 45mm if I remember correctly, although the first and last slat of each layer is 3 times wider. The original find from Egypt, at Fayum, had this feature. The shield measures 128 cm high, 70 cm wide, and 23 cm deep; I had to bend it over a mold that I use specifically for this task.

The front face of the shield was covered with a huge horsehide which was glued to the wood with natural glue made from animal hide. It was not an easy task; I needed the help of two other people. The edge was reinforced with a strip of leftover hide from what I used to cover the front of the shield, and I sewed it with linen thread. The paint I used was made by me from this natural glue and a series of natural pigments such as French chalk, a slightly beige earth from Italy, magnetite, and a modern synthetic blue. Natural or historical blues are really expensive! The inspiration for the paint came from a couple of examples of Roman art: the Fish Mosaic from Praeneste and a fresco of a Hellenistic soldier named Salmas from Sidon, where shields can be seen on both.

The back face was left uncovered to show the wood but was oiled with linseed oil. In the center, on the outer face, is the wooden spine, carved from a solid piece of wood and fixed in place by 6 forged nails, bent over on the back face with their tips driven back into the wood. The handle is made from a solid piece of steam bent oak, glued and nailed to the shield.

On the inner face you can see a series of fittings, also forged, that were present on the original Fayum shield. These fittings are used to carry the shield and for use in combat, presumably. I find this a very interesting aspect of this shield, although it seems they were used frequently. These fittings go through the shield, are bent over on the outer face, and the tips are driven back inward, fixing them firmly. A hand braided cord made from linen runs through the rings.

The weight is 6 kg, but it could have been lighter. This type of shield covers its bearer almost completely, and as you can see, it covers me from feet to eyes once I have adopted a combat stance.

u/KingPappas — 4 months ago
▲ 3 r/handtools

Bahco jointing file. Which one to choose?

Hello. I'm a bit lost as to which Bahco file would be suitable for leveling the teeth of a series of very large saws I need to restore. I understand it should be a flat file, but I get a bit confused by the numbers and how the brand denotes some of its characteristics. Can anyone clear up my doubts?

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u/KingPappas — 5 months ago