r/handtools

Credit

These Ember 3 shoulder planes were designed and made to look and function like the original Stanley’s. To be honest, I think these are far more impressive with a much better superior blade.

I figure this is a type of block plane, but I'm not sure if this was originally meant to be a curved bottom plane or it was like a scrub plane that got it's bottom rounded over or whatever, and I also have no idea how to use this kind of cap iron. .

My first bit of furniture! I present to you, Redditors, a three-legged stool made of a single big box store Douglas Fir 2x4 (and a teeny, tiny bit of walnut), loosely following the Chris Schwarz plans for a tall stool (this is shorter, no stretchers, and round tenons instead of tapered. Also... just kinda guessed at the leg angles).

Tools used: Gyokucho ryoba saw, Jorgenson #4 plane, janky 70s Craftsman Jack plane. And yes, a power drill with spade bit, so not 100% hand tools. The round tenons were cut with chisels, paring away, testing fit, paring, testing, paring.... it took a while. Fun stuff. Finished with Danish oil and wax paste.

This whole project was so much fun to do as a beginner (I've only built boxes before this), The feeling of taking a $4 2x4 and dimensioning it to something refined is... powerful. When I got my leg blanks all square and smooth and they looked like beautiful, riftsawn straight grain.... chef's kiss.

My favorite parts were beveling and chamfering the seat, and making the legs octagonal and tapered. I was most nervous about the wedges in the tenons. Every test piece split and I just prayed that the counterpressure from the mortise would keep it together, and thankfully it did. My one big regret is the board layout in the seat... I didn't think the knot would look so much like a poop smear from a distance. Womp womp.

While this was meant to be a shop stool, it's currently serving as a side table next to my couch... until I build one!

Feedback welcome. I'm here to learn!

Ok, so I'm downplaying it a little.

I also got a pair of pink lawn flamingos for $10.

I came across this hand plane that by chance this past weekend, and haven’t had much luck finding anything on it. I have seen a few things about the regular 407 bit not the corrugated sole version.

It seems like it may be rare but I am pretty inexperienced and just happen to come across a couple nice old planes at a garage sale. I am a woodworking but hand planes are something I have just barely dabbled in.

Thanks for any tips or input.

Challenged myself to sharpen my coworker's tiny little spokeshave blade. Doing so by hand was absolutely brutal so I decided to make a tool for it.

Behold, a clamp with the form factor of a chisel. I need a better name for it. It's a prototype for sure, but it works damn well.

One I can’t find a makers mark due to pitting but the other is a Marples & Sons Sheffield.

What would be the use case for these in woodworking?

On the list to restore but many things higher on the list!

Any lighter of a cut than this and it won’t produce a shaving. Any advice on smooth surface and easier push? I’ve used paraffin wax on bottom to help the plane glide. The blade is sharp enough to cut hair I’m guessing it’s just my technique.

Am I crazy, or do other people have a hard time with this? I've been woodworking with mostly hand tools for the past two years, and I feel like I've gotten pretty comfortable with a hand plane. I have a sweetheart 62 that's well tuned with a sharp blade. It planes plain wood just fine, and I know how to take an aggressive cut for dimensioning vs a light cut for smoothing, but I have the hardest time planing away paint.

I have a bunch of painted soft maple panels that are leftover from a kitchen remodel that the previous owners of my house did. It's great lumber, but when I try to clean the paint off, my plane just wants to slide over the surface. I have to advance the blade really far to get it to do anything at all, and subsequently, the wood winds up tearing out like crazy. I also get a ton of paint dust. As a sanity check, I also tried with my block plane. Same trouble.

Is this normal?

Not sure about possible modifications before I got my hands on it, but the quality is pretty low overall. The square is not square (the two parts are moving slightly). The plane has a really weird wedge that doesn't go all the way down and barely pins the blade. The blade itself is skewed in a "resting state" - if I just let it drop down by itself, it's pretty snug to the sides, but the edge is not parallel to the sole.

However!

I think the whole concept of making actually usable toy tools for making something with your own hands right from the childhood is really nice. It's supposedly a toy kit, but the blades are very much real.

[edit - grammar]

Formerly rusted and chipped, some light cleanup before hanging it on hickory in about the same dimensions as what it was hung on when I got it.

Driving the wedge created/revealed some cracks that are visible in the last photo, so we’ll see if I have the courage to swing it at anything.

Made for my wood turning tool for when I travel to teach and demo. Case is made from northern white pine and the bread boarded top is Peruvian walnut with maple pins. The handles are Stanley stamped from my late father’s trailer he and my grandfather built. I found a Stanley hasp to match

Hi everyone, I'm a beginner and I'm building a small cabinet. I cut these boards by hand with a handsaw because I don't have a power saw, but unfortunately the end cuts came out slightly angled.

The boards are about 23 cm wide and 2 cm thick.

Can I correct these end grain cuts with a low-angle block plane, or would you recommend another method?

I'm trying to get the ends flat and square so they don't throw the cabinet out of square during assembly.

Thanks!

German Plate Rack, in pine by hand tools. From the pocketbook Smalls from Lost Art Press.

It fits exactly on a 1x12x8, which is super convenient. Tremont cut nails for the case construction. Barn Red Old Fashioned Milk paint.

Didn't even wait for the second coat to dry before it was hung and decorated.

Hello.

To cut things short, I found a No. 5 plane from an antique store and felt inspired to fix it up and use it on my first major project. As far as I can tell, it is a Stanly No. 5 plane, but I honestly can't say for 100% based on it's performance.

I can't seem to keep the blade sharp for more than a single board of soft pine wood. I have adjusted the frog, sharped the blade to a near mirror finish, used a sharpening jig, and adjusted the chip breaker. It just seems to dull very quickly, with noticeable notches in the blade after a single small motion with the grain. I have been sure to use the lateral adjuster to ensure a flat edge of the blade against the wood, or at least I think.

I have been careful to slowly adjust the blade down with the adjuster as well.

Could my blade be of bad temper? I know it is a Defiance blade as per the stamp, but could the quality of the steel be that bad? I understand that the sole is perhaps a little off from being totally flat but should that be causing something like this?

I am a total newbie to not only planes, but wood working in general. I am a software engineer so never really worked with hand tools. Totally open to being told that I've messed it all up or that I'm missing something obvious. I could totally this be just me being bad a sharpening as well.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.