r/handtools

Got a rip saw recently!! Did a test with it and it works really great

I’m a bit of a novice but slowly plucking away at my workbench. I did a practice joint for the legs to see what I was getting into. I think I know how to get it closer but wow is this joint robust.

Would you guys leave it like this or wedge the top?

It looks like some coating is gone from the metal?

I'd like to give it some care, but I don't know what, how, and to which end (i.e. what end result to expect)

Thanks!

wondering what type of handsaw this is and if it would be worth putting the time into to restore?
appears to be a stanley but ripping, crosscut?
i’m just starting into woodworking and would love to restore an old tool rather buying new, or should i ditch the western saw idea and go Japanese. thanks

Hi r/handtools,

I’m cleaning out my grandfather’s garage. He has many chisels brands like Berg, Titan, Marples, Ward etc. Most are easy identify due to branding, however this has left me stumped. Does anyone know what brand this chisel is?

Was resawing some Australian spotted gum slabs on the bandsaw recently and had some offcuts good size for some kitchen utensils. I needed some upgrades so got out the carving kit for the first time in a couple years. Have only carved spoons before so need to refine how deep my initial gouges are in future. Pretty happy with how they came out though from some offcuts I would have otherwise burnt lovely bit of spalting in both also

Update: my saw practice is going well. I can saw to the line on both sides of the board. Now I have a new issue. I have a curve in my saw blade. See the photos. It still cuts straight, but I assume this is not good. Is there a way I can correct this or do I need to send it to a saw expert?

I recently saw another contributor share his results of this Veritas Spokeshave kit, and I knew I had to get one. There is a special feeling when you use a tool you made. And if you get the pre-cut blank, it should be easy, right?

Not so fast. :-) There are a few steps that are needed.

• I made two jigs - an 80 degree jig, and a 45 degree jig (both shown). I added a ledge that was the thickness of the brass bar to better control the alignment on the second jig. These jigs allowed me to better control the angle of the file for the next steps.
• The blank need a 10 degree bevel on both ends where the brass sole goes.
• The brass sole needs a 45 degree taper on the side, and a 80 degree bevel on the ends so it wedges into the blank.
• The brass sole needs to have holes drilled and a countersink for the screws.
• You have to tap the holes for the adjustment screws. Then the plane has to be assembled for the next step.
• The brass sole has to be precisely positioned against the spokeshave blade, and then screwed into the blank.

At this point you can test how well it cuts before you shape the blank.

I had a few snags. The directions tell you to tighten the large screws all the way and use a business card as a gauge between the sole and the blade. This actually sets the gap to be the largest possible value.

I wasn't happy with the first sole I made. Luckily they give you enough brass to make a second sole. This one I aligned using the minimum gap possible, which I found easier to do and looks better at the end.

The instructions have you drill the brass sole and the blank at the same time. I prepped the brass before I drilled the hols in the blank. That's because I used the minimum gap to position the sole.

I shaped some of the curves with different dowels wrapped in sandpaper to get the smooth curves.

There's a few minor blemishes, but after a few uses, it becomes less important. If you wanted to show it off, that's different. I wanted to use it.

Overall - it was challenging and the end product works great. I am able to shave an almost transparent sliver from maple. You need to be careful on each step and make sure you follow the instructions.

First time using one of these, amazing at how it just swept away the rough grain my hand plane left on this black walnut knot (the chipped edge is unrelated, plz ignore). I think I need a coarser stone to work the edge after filing, there were obviously some lines left on the edge, I only had a 4000 grit stone lying around at the time.

Lock button came off this Skil grinder. Any idea how to refix it on? (I have the button sabed)

Picked up this rusty old chisel head for $1 at the restore last week and brought it back to life. It had some pretty rough chips and there’s some rust pitting on the underside, but after wire wheeling off all the rust, I reground the bevel and sharpened it up. It took some time but I got it sharp enough to shave some hair off my arm. Then tonight after work I made it a handle out of a piece of poplar dowel and a couple of extra compression nuts I had lying around. I wiped it down with BLO and then will give it another wipe of BLO tomorrow after work, and once that’s dry a layer of paste wax and it’ll will be ready to do some work.

I found this cool piece of curly oak and intended to make a small triangular cricket table with it, but when it came down to it, I didn't want to cut the board up. So I kept it as long as I could and made this little bench. Really happy with this.

Red oak, worked mostly with hand tools, finished with natural shellac and wax. I also used a bandsaw to break down the stock and a power drill to make the tenons with a tenon cutter--it was my first time doing that and I'm not sure I will do it again. I found it difficult to control and ruined a leg. Everything else was done with planes, chisels, handsaws, bit & brace, etc.

Please let me know if you have any questions!