I just bought an Atkins crosscut saw and I’ve slowly started restoring it, the logo is there but faint. I’ve heard from a source that white vinegar will help bring it back or at least make it more defined. Are there any other ways to restore the logo? I’ve lightly used 2000 grit sandpaper over it but don’t want to dig into it.
It’s 85F in here and I’m ripping 3.5ft of 6/4 oak and I chose the wrong side of the line on the end of the cut. Flipping the board front to back so many times, the line changes side and the brain stops working. The beverages and music might have something to do with it as well.
It’s not a problem. I wanted to post an example of silly mistakes. It’s important, I think, to show the good and the bad, otherwise people start to assume wood working posts are always flawless.
This is a pre-war plane. It was my Great Grandfathers. He had a lot of really good quality tools and planes (this is not one of them). The only markings are, "Made In USA" behind the front knob and, "C115" behind the lever cap. It was originally blue and the paint is still visible on the frog and the chip breaker. It is 9.5" x 2.5" (close to a #4). Any ideas of what it is?
Where do I start with this? I have some early 1900s baseboard cap patterns I'd like to replicate. I figure they must have done it by hand in those days, and I'm thinking it could be fun to try to reproduce them that way myself.
The pattern consists of a cove at the top followed by two large beads of the same size. So I feel like I could either find the radius of the beads and the cove, then try to get planes that match those profiles -- or I could template the whole profile and custom-make a plane and blade to do it.
Any advice on this or input on how it might have actually been done back in the day? I have seen both approaches in videos and tools, but not sure what the ins and outs are and which way would be easier.
I initially used the ruler trick for the flat side, but the second time around I decided to flatten it the regular way. That’s when I noticed this belly. At first I thought it was technique, but my 2 trusty straightedges said otherwise. Any thoughts?
Hello all! I was given a box full of Marples chisels, gouges and old Stanley planes that are rusted to hell and back. I love restoring things so I figured I’d restore these and then use them to start my wood working journey.
Problem I’m having mentally is that I’m wondering if this is doing myself a disservice considering I’ll not know what a proper chisel/gouge feels like and just think that however good (or bad) I restore these is “normal”.
Debating if I should just purchase the tools I want instead of hoping I restore them good enough be good representations of what each tool should feel like.
Maybe someone here can relate or give some advice. Thank you for your time!
Apparently there had been some unfortunate dealings between Albert W. Bowers of Lowell, Massachusetts and one S. D. Marcy regarding payment for services to be rendered. Specifically the addition of a lock to a tool chest which contained a set of bench planes, hand saws and a variety of small tools.
Mr. Marcy had engaged Mr. Bowers to add a lock to the tool chest. That Mr. Marcy was not capable of installing said lock suggests that he was of a gentlemanly persuasion and not a tradesman. Mr. Bowers was not about to install said lock without payment in full for services to be rendered.
https://www.toolemerapress.com/2026/07/correspondence-regarding-tool-chest.html
I can’t tell if it’s intentional but I’m having trouble getting it flush with the chip breaker and depth adjustment. Any advice is appreciated
Ever wonder why old hammer heads never needed glue? In this one I walk through why a properly fitted hammer or axe handle relies on a wedge and compression, not adhesive, and why that method has lasted since the Bronze Age. I get into grain direction, why the head should slide on before wedging, and why glue can actually hide a bad fit instead of fixing it. Also touch on the difference between hafting methods used by early humans and the wedge system we still use today.
If you've ever had a hammer head fly loose or you're rehanging an old tool, this should clear a few things up.
I like to post my articles here on reddit not for fame nor for fortune because I do this for free, but because I see more like minded people here than I do elsewhere except for my readers on my blog. I've made a video of it, a podcast to listen to while working, driving, sitting on the loo or you can simply read it on my blog. All the links are on the blog. For some reason the ai running this community flags the youtube video links.
A properly fitted hammer handle is held in place by mechanical force, not adhesive. Here's why the wedge still beats glue, and always has.
https://journeymansjournel.wordpress.com/2026/07/06/why-a-hammer-head-doesnt-need-glue/
I combed through a bunch of posts, flow charts, articles and diagrams but feel like I keep coming up with different Id’s. I inherited so many tools from my grandfather, some were my great grandfather’s. Trying to narrow down the age on this No. 4. Just starting to go through the hand tools. Some of these charts point to type 19 some I think 14. Maybe it’s a Frankenstein situation. Any input would be really appreciated. I’m not trying to sell I just want to fill in the blanks on some fam history.
I’ve been a trim/ finish carpenter for 10+ years and now wanting to get into wood working and restoring these hand tools. I just don’t know enough about planes and all the other stuff I’ve now acquired. I have this giant hand made box of hand saws. Other saws that don’t fit in the box I’ve never seen anything that even remotely looks like them as a modern carpenter. Some are bow saws based on Google image. A bunch of wooden levels. A tool box from my great grandfather that has all these hand crank drills and what looks like hand made/forged wrenches (he worked on the railroad in the late 1800’s)
Here’s some photos of the no4 plane though. I’ll post photos of the other stuff if anyone wants to check it out. Thank you so much for reading and your patience.
The nail has rectangular cross-section and isn't very pointy. Flat on the pointy end, actually. Probably made in the USA. The head is slightly angled. I can't tell if it got bent or was made that way. 2.5 inches (64 mm) long. Not rusted. What is/was this kind of nail for?
Got this #7 for 5 dollars at a yard sale. Since the photos, I've broken it down and all the components are salvageable except for maybe the sole. Is this pitting too deep to save? I have a 3, 4, 5, 5 1/2, 6, and a 6 1/2, but not a 7, so I really hope to be able to restore it, but I'm doubting it at this point.
Hola queria preguntar si alguno sabe con certeza qué madera es, gracias.
Hello i wanted to know if anyone knows with certainty which wood this is, thank you
I’ve done many edge grain boards and furniture pieces but this is my first end grain board. 8/4 Walnut and maple oiled with the brass feet attached.
My contractor saw isn’t that accurate so I planned each joint and squared the butt joints on the shooting board prior to final glue up to ensure there weren’t any gaps. No drum sander in the shop and it ended up flawless. 😍
Flattened the board using a low angle jack and smoother. Was a ton of effort but worth it in the end as I didn’t want to risk it going through my planer.
18” x 14.5” x 2.25” total
Finished with Walrus Oil cutting board oil