Need some tips to what I could get replaced "while you're down there" when the headgasket is getting changed. And I also wonder what is a good brand for the gasket. I have heard that Elhring is a respected choice. And would I need to get the top machined so the gasket would get a clean surface to stick to? Engine dosn't overheat, yet. There is oil in the coolant but not the other way around.
Are the side indicators on the fender from factory? I know they sit higher than normal due to aftermarket fenders from previous owner. But I've been having an issue with the driver side suddendly not working. Bulb is fine and I cant find the connector plug incase it has fallen off. The passenger side had the same issue and there was the connector plugged off so I plugged it in and worked, but it looked like it was piggybacked into something else. Since I cant find any attempt of the driver side being piggybacked, im not sure if the indicators are put on afterwards or not. For info, its a 1993 model, approx build date in May.
Asking for recommendations when it comes to where to buy temperature display and if there are any "might as well" stuff to do with the speedometer when its out. All the warning bulbs work except for the parking brake.
Probably a dumb question but I have to ask. How long can I actually drive with a leaky headgasket on the m104 280? The oil is not milky, but there is oil coming into the expansion tank, no issues with overheating either. There is 15-40 oil in it and I have to refill once a month or so about 1 litre when the dipstick shows almost minimum. I have tried multiple times with oil leak sealants but no improvement. I'm not a aggressive driver and not beating on the car, the engine is smooth. Been owning the car for a little over 1 year and some months ago I took the car to a hobby mechanic which have fixed cars for me before. He noticed it was either a headgasket or warped head, but hoping its the gasket which was leaky. He didn't want to replace the gasket since he already have had enough when trying to fix a different leak which he thought was the problem.
Not trying to sound weird with the title 😂 just wondering what's your guys favorite type of wood interior, and what is the most sought after? According to the vin-decoder I have Burred walnut root if that is anything special or not?
I bought a new bulb H4 halogen for the right headlight because I thought it had blown, even the warning in the dash comes up. I go ahead to change the bulb but lowbeam still dosn't work. Highbeam works normally. And before anyone comments; I have tried checking the fuses, no issues. Wiggle around some wiring, still no changes. Even both headlights and the wiring and plugs look new. There is a datestamp on the reflectors saying something about 2019. Dont remember exact date. Even tried to chatgpt it but didn't give me anything helpful
Is this even normal? To have some kind of oily stuff under the shifter? Surely not right?
Finally got around to change the horrible wooden knob to a leather one. The leather is not a genuine sportline knob but close enough. I dont have millions to buy genuine ones.
Like the title says, I have some issues with my reverse lights. They work, but its more of the gear position that's odd. From P to R the lights sometimes comes on, I even try multiple times in a row but not much is changing. But from N to R I have to have the gear lever in between R and P to get lights. Is this the neutral safety switch acting up?
I noticed that the passenger side drain for the windshield had water in it after washing the car. Tried to unclog with weedwhacker wire but no go. The driver side flows liie normal. But even though I try to add more water on the passenger side, I can still see it flow through but there are some water left stuck in the drain. Any ideas?
Like the title says, im a noob when it comes to DH and chunky. Some say you shouldn't use chunky and others do. What I have done is to make a new world with a little modpack I made. Once I joined in i typed in the command to make chunky start doing its thing. It took some hours but the progress bar went away. After it went away I then installed DH and put the cpu load to agressive. How do I actually know if I have done things right? Thanks for reply
This shiftknob came with the car. Yes its a real sportline, but the wooden sportline knobs weren't a thing. It looks so ugly with the badge just glued on it looks like. I dont think this is just a wooden sheet over the original knob. Does anyone have tips to make it look better, because im not into to pay hundreds of euros for a genuine sportline knob
So after driving with an oil leak for a over a year (dont know how long previous owner have drove with it leaking) it is now evident that my headgasket is leaking. A hobby mechanic who has help me getting previous car fixed in the past have now dug deep into searching where this oil leak came from. The story is that I had to get the car inspected for it to be road legal (MOT) or what its called in other countries. And the only thing they didn't pass me on was the oil leak from engine. So the thing now is that the hobby mechanic is gonna put it all back together with the bad gasket still because we dont know if it is actually the gasket or if the head is warped. And he dosn't really wanna do the job which is understandable. Try to drive it the same distant which is from me to the indie mechanic shop where I failed the inspection and back to see how badly it actually leaks. If its not badly leaking, I should try to get it passed and hope they dont notice oil leak. If they do pass it, I guess I would just have to live with the leak. If they fail it again, I dont know what I'm gonna do, I'm not made of money. The obvious symptom I have from a failed headgasket is that there is oil in the coolant, but not coolant in the oil. I dont see anything milky under the filler cap and it has never been over 90 degrees. How long can I actually drive like this? Im not a hard driver.
I wonder if anyone has any recommendations when it comes to better sound. I know these straight sixes are supposed to be silky smooth and silent. But I wouldn't mind just a little more omph and I also like the look of two exhaust tips. Its a wagon and I know the wagons and sedans had different backbox which is what Im looking to change.
Like the title says, now I have a sudden issue with the wiper. Even in 0 posistion it goes off intermittent speeds. But in 1, 2 and 3 its normal speeds. The washer and blinkers works as normal. The video indicates that I barely turn the handle and the wiper goes. Tried to check relay but i couldnt get it out and i didnt want to stay out in the cold
So my wagon is equipped with the active bass system. But it has never worked in my ownership. The only speaker that is working is the driver side dash speaker. Everyone else is dead or has rarely kicked in. And I ideally want an entire new sound system, i'am not an expert when it comes to speakers so I wonder if that amplifier in the back powers those door speakers and can they get replaced with something new? Basically i have confirmed all speakers are original paper ones because the rear door speaker covers came loose one time and I saw the originals
What you see on the picture is my VIN number for my 124. I went to chatgpt and asked how rare my options for the car was. The AI mentioned that I have a 280te which is true, but it also mentioned that the engine code is for a 3.2. Is there a place on the engine itself or anywhere where it could tell me what the actual engine is? Or is this some kind of error on the VIN decoder site?
A previous post I was asking what would look the best between evo wheels or pentas..I think evos was the right choice🤓 (centercaps has been ordered)
Is it possible to clean the infrared sensor? The one on the trunk isnt as bad but wouldn't hurt to clean that aswell. I can still see the lights blinking as they should and locks and unlocks the doors. But i dont think it gets enough signal to disarm the alarm...or am i completely F'd and have to get a new sensor?
