Hi, imeverybody is always talking how to fix rust on the front mounting points but does anybody know the construction of the rear mounting points and how these would be the smartest way to fix. I know this car is a rust bucket but one of the best winter beaters that i ever had. Thanks for the advise in the front🫡
I have w124 250d in very good condition, factory shocks, car drives and feels smooth but a bit floaty which is normal for every w124, mine is on factoru tire dimensions 195/65 R15.
If I upgrade shocks with Bilestein B4,new shock mounts, tires with 205/55 R16 tires, lower car 1-2cm, will it behave different in driving with same comfort?
I bought my first car a few months ago. I don’t have a ton of experience with maintaining or fixing cars yet, but I’m trying my best to learn and take good care of it.
I have a 1987 Mercedes W124 230E, and I live in southern Norway. We don’t usually get huge amounts of snow here, but the roads are salted quite a lot during winter. I really need the car for transportation, and honestly, I also think it would be pretty fun to drive it through the winter.
The thing I’m worried about is rust. I’ve heard that snow, moisture and especially road salt can be really bad for older cars, particularly underneath the car. At the same time, I see plenty of W124s online being driven through snowy winters and even sitting outside in the snow, so I’m wondering how serious the problem actually is.
I’ve also heard that if you wash the car regularly, especially underneath, you can prevent most of the damage. The problem is that I don’t have access to water or electricity where I park the car, so I can’t just wash it after every drive.
The car currently has basically no rust, and there’s no exposed bare metal that I know of. I really want to keep it that way.
So my questions are:
Is driving a rust-free W124 through a Norwegian winter actually a really bad idea?
How much does road salt realistically accelerate rust on a car this old?
How often should I wash the underside during winter?
Is washing it at a self-service car wash every so often enough, or does it really need to be washed after every salty drive?
Is it better to wash the car immediately after driving on salted roads, or is waiting a few days okay?
Would a professional underbody/rustproofing treatment make a significant difference?
Are there particular areas underneath a W124 that I should inspect regularly?
Is parking outside in snow itself a problem, or is the salt and moisture underneath the car the bigger concern?
Would you personally drive a very clean, rust-free W124 through a southern Norwegian winter, or keep it off the road?
I know that avoiding winter completely would obviously be best for preserving the car, but I need the car for transportation and I’d really like to actually enjoy driving it.
What would you guys do?
For context, this is my first car and I’m still learning, so any advice is appreciated.
Here is a picture of it now
my w124 glovebox is locked and and I cannot unlock it as you can see and no I dont have the key , what is the solution?
Decided to give these new Nokians a try. The studs are supposed to contract when it's warm and come out once it's cold.
My 300D w124 1989 in front of a tree called "lapacho amarillo".
This has gotta be one of the most instant improvements in feel and comfort as well as a pretty quick job. Kind of a pain in the butt squishing the bushings in but relatively easy.
Mine had been rattling for some time now and just got to it, can’t believe I hadn’t done it sooner, though it could be because of how much worse a job it was to do on my W123.
I can’t find an aerial with this number (124 820 06 75). Does anyone have one? Or does anyone know whether the 124 820 16 75 would fit my W124? It says online that it’s apparently not compatible, as the mechanism works differently.
Hi guys, so my w124 has a 2.9 turbo diesel from a w210 fully swapped and the gauge cluster is from a w210 also and everything on ti works except the speedometer previous owner changed the sensors on the abs and everything so I dont know what the problem might be?
Hey guys! Recently picked up an E250 TD W124 and I’m thinking about running some 17" Barock wheels. They’re 8J with an ET30.
Anyone running this setup on their W124? Would love to see how the fitment looks. Also, what tyre sizes are you guys running?
My plan is to get the wheels, choose the tyre size based on the fitment, and then decide how much to lower it.
*It looks lowered in the picture but it's not, I was making a trip and the trunk was pretty full.
Greetings from Portugal 🇵🇹
Hi everyone,
I'm troubleshooting an issue on my 1995 W124 Estate (S124 E220) with the 2.2L M111 engine and 722.4 automatic transmission.
The Symptom:
The car starts up fine immediately, but after running for about 10 seconds, it cuts out and stalls completely.
What has been inspected and done so far:
OVP Relay & Fuel Delivery: Inspected and resoldered the OVP (overvoltage protection) relay, and checked the fuel pump operation.
Intake Manifold & Vacuum Refresh: Removed the intake manifold to unclog the brass vacuum nozzle underneath. Also replaced the intake manifold gasket and all fuel injector O-rings with fresh seals to eliminate vacuum/air leaks.
Despite this, the engine still consistently dies roughly 10 seconds after starting.
My questions for the community:
1. What typically triggers an M111 to cut out after 10–15 seconds? Could this be related to the fuel pump relay losing the run signal after the initial prime/crank cycle?
2. Could it be a failing Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS), MAF/air mass sensor, or throttle body actuator issue?
3. Are there any specific wiring harness degradation spots (eco-junk harness era) or hidden vacuum check valves that I should test next?
Any guidance, diagnostic steps, or similar troubleshooting experiences would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
Hi! I’m a new owner of a 300CE-24V. Could anyone help me and tell me what exactly this smoke means? It smells like petrol.
After sitting overnight, it always takes a little longer to start. But after a drive, once the engine is warmed up, it starts immediately, even if it has been sitting in a parking lot for up to three hours.
I bought it from old grandpa, he kept it in garage for 7 years, the car made 1500 kilometres only in 7 years.
Everything included in video
For anyone who’s unlucky enough (like me) to have a leaking tandem PS pump, here are a few tips.
The seal kit “1 unit Power Steering / Tandem Pump Seal Kit Mercedes 0004608080” is virtually impossible to find, only one place (probably in the world) has them in stock - www.oldtimer-Ersatzteile24.de (€30)
Instead of buying The MB Pin Wrench (129589020700) for $159, you can manufacture your own tool by bending and cutting a thick nail
Removal is a pita, just find a vid/tutorial for any vickers pump, it will apply to you (less the SLS pipes)
The reseal procedure can be found on w124 performance from page 11
https://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD2/Program/Chassis/46-0730.pdf
After I’ve removed the pump and ordered the kit, I’ve realized that the previous owner has cut (by the steering box) and closed looped the SLS lines… FML. Could’ve just gotten a normal PS pump from my local spares guy and resealed it using the seal kit I mistakenly bought
Good luck
There is an tl;dr at the end.
Guys, what should I do? I am a 22-year-old man living in Finland and I have somewhat fallen in love with the idea of owning a W124 sedan as my first car (because even now they are more than 30 years old). Many seem to like driving one more than any other car and moreover I would like a simple car that I could learn to fix myself, and also the design of W124 is timeless. I don't fear about crashing one since I have driven other cars, and even if I crashed it I would just repair it if it was doable.
However, the I would actually need the car in summer 2028. I would like one with minimal rust and 5-speed manual gearbox for under 10k€. Preferably 2.3 liters motor at maximum. I don't care about whether it is petrol or diesel or any of the expensive collectible cars. My dad can repair cars, so it wouldn't need to be in mechanically perfect condition either.
I would be ready to import the car from Germany myself if there wasn't an affordable rust-free individual in Finland. I think generally there is more rust in Finland's ones because there is a lot salt used and few cherish their cars by washing them for example. Immediately after buying I would have the car's structures protected from rust by a car repair business in order to drive it potentially for 10 years.
The main question is that what is going to happen to the market in 18 months. Today I can find good examples in Germany for 7 to 10 thousand euros and in Finland for at least 10 thousand euros. What so you think, is it likely that I would find ones too at Easter 2028? Will something obvious happen to the prices? Would I buy the car sooner I potentially have a good way to store it here. The costs for bureaycracy for keeping it would be perhaps 300 euros a year.
TL;DR I would very much want to experience the W124 sedan even once myself. I am looking for one with minimal rust from Finland and Germany. Would I find one for under 10k€ at Easter 2028 like today and save up just little more money until then? Preferably 5-speed gearbox and max. 2.3 liters.
Need some tips to what I could get replaced "while you're down there" when the headgasket is getting changed. And I also wonder what is a good brand for the gasket. I have heard that Elhring is a respected choice. And would I need to get the top machined so the gasket would get a clean surface to stick to? Engine dosn't overheat, yet. There is oil in the coolant but not the other way around.