Back in the day this was my entry for the initial Chick Challenge circa 2000.
I have an email from Drew Williams of https://satyrartstudio.com/ confirming that this is indeed the Lady Luck miniature he sculpted for Demonblade. Hopefully the lost Minis Wiki will give her a good home in the gallery of Deadtech.
Full Article here Visual Reference For HeroQuest - Underworld Battle (2009)
As with all my reference articles, there is a PDF at the end for my readers whose countries block the images but not downloads.
Greetings all,
Proxies are not exact replicas of items that are available from the manufacturer. Proxies in games have a long history, and there is no issue with having them on this board.
3D-printed components that are replica duplicates, knock-offs, or bootlegs of the manufactured product are copyright-infringing piracy. This board will remove posts that support piracy. Our community can be closed by Hasbro for supporting it. Hasbro has done so to other boards.
Recommending a site that sells duplicates, knock-offs, bootlegs, or other IP infringing items will result in the post being pulled, and a reminder will be sent to the poster. If you are confused about what might be classified as IP infringing, please see our Helpful Community Reference Links, General Rules when producing fan related materials (The IP Sticky of Doom)
3D-printed components that are not duplicates of the manufactured product are proxies. It is highly recommended that if you are suggesting 3-D printing of components, you recommend the proxy, and if possible, the page on which it can be found.
We have had a significant uptick in bots recently, something like 4 in the last week. If you come across a post that you believe to be a bot, please report it; we will check it out and ban the bot account. This is the easiest and fastest way for us to catch them.
Thank you all for being here and supporting the game.
https://itch.io/jam/heroquest-quest-jam-2026
Submissions open from July 1st 2026 at 10:00 AM to July 31st 2026 at 10:00 PM.
Give it a shot; if you win, cool; if you don't, it's still cool.
Last year, when I posted the Portal Magazine Archive, I mentioned at the end of the article that I would provide an archive of the follow-up publication. FPM - Figure Painter Magazine is that publication. While not a direct relation to Portal, it does have some of the same contributors, and it shares the same subject matter.
FPM was an online e-zine dedicated to painting, sculpting, and modeling, focused on busts, miniatures, and dioramas. The website www.figurepaintermagazine.co.uk is gone. 51 issues of the e-zine were released from 2013 through 2018. With the loss of the web domain, the issues were temporarily available on their Facebook page. That page is still available, but the files are no longer there.
Miniature painting and sculpting can be daunting. That is where fan-built magazines really shine. They are not trying to sell you something, though in this case they do have advertising. This is a wonderful magazine filled with lots of excellent articles, designs, and beautiful photographs.
The articles are informative and lavishly illustrated. I truly wish that this had been an actual print publication on quality acid-free paper. It would have made an amazing collection of inspiring work to include in my library of reference materials. Yes, I still have a physical library of reference materials.
The links below the images are to the archive where you can read and download all the individual issues.
This type of E-zine is not nearly as prevalent as it once was. Not that they have ever been super prevalent. The loss of each one leaves an immeasurable hole in the gaming and painting hobby communities.
Robot Pigeon, the group that created this, also created another E-zine called Initiative Magazine. I only have a few issues of that currently, but if all goes well, perhaps I will get them all and make an archive eventually.
-Dru
I found this page while looking for some reference materials for my website.
Fabian Bautista does some amazing rework on Dark World miniatures. Too big for HeroQuest but inspiring to look at.
Yes, it is all digital; none of it is real.
I am excited that the new convention quest will be unveiled in 27 days. :)
3D dungeons are a wonderful thing to use while playing HeroQuest. I built mine using Mage Knight 3D Dungeons kits. Could I have used a 3D printer? Sure, but let me show you a photo of the finished board.
There are too many images to post the full thing here on Reddit.
A link to the PDF of this article is located at the end of the article on my website.
I kicked around the idea of using a 3D printer in the beginning. Why did I not go that way? Well, it's simple, really. I do not own a 3D printer. Buying one, buying feeder stock, and spending time learning to use it seemed to be an undesirable task. One I did not have the time for, the patience for, and I dislike the layered look that 3D printers produce. Add to that the cleaning of the printer, prepping the model parts, and painting... I was just not into that amount of work. I know, spending more money for a high-quality resin printer solves a few of these issues, but not enough in my opinion.
Back in 2003, WizKids produced their Mage Knight 3D Dungeons expansion for their Mage Knight Dungeons miniatures skirmish game. The naming convention can lead to some confusion, as they were named the same except for the "3D" nomenclature. There were 3 releases specifically for Mage Knight 3D Dungeons.
First was the starter set consisting of 4 "wooden" doors, 4 "iron" doors, 24 walls, and 36 floor tiles, a full 1/3 of the flooring tiles recommended to play a game. According to the pamphlet inside the box, a game should use a square of 10 x 10 floor tiles, so 100 squares. There were 2 versions of this item: the Promo Pack and the Retail Pack. The promo packs were sent to stores to use as promotional materials to spur interest in this version of the Dungeon expansion. The promo pack also had 6 pillars included and rules for them, while the retail starter set did not.
The second release, Mage Knight 3D Dungeons Floor Pack, marketed as an accessory, was a box of 36 floor tiles. No doors, no walls, just flooring tiles and the same rules from the retail starter set. The idea was for each player to bring their own starting set and flooring tiles expansion to build the maps for play. There were 2 versions of this release as well: the retail box and the promo box. Both had the same contents.
The next was an interesting choice. It was a plastic blister-on-card peg hanger, Mage Knight 3D Dungeons Trap Pack. There were 8 trap miniatures, rules, and a red lens "decoder". The article Drucifer’s Advanced Traps For HeroQuest was inspired by these traps. The blister pack also contained 12 floor tiles with built-in trap dials. These dials had game information obfuscated using red reveal steganography. This required using the red lens to expose the information on the trap dials. As with the other two releases, there were 2 versions: the blister-on-card peg hanger and a promotional box. Both had the same contents.
The Mage Knight 3D Dungeons tiles were larger than the 1.5-inch squares used in WidKids' other Mage Knight Dungeons releases, poster-sized paper maps, and cardstock map sections from the Mage Knight Dungeon Builder Kits. That size difference made the two Mage Knight Dungeons systems less compatible than they were originally intended.
The dungeon doors from the Mage Knight Dungeon Builder Kits were notably smaller as well, measuring in at 1.5 inches wide. They did not look right when compared to the Mage Knight 3D Dungeons Doors and the 2-inch floor squares.
I am not certain why there was a change in the square size. I am certain it was part of the reason the 3D Dungeons line was canceled. There were other releases for the Mage Knight Dungeons game after the Mage Knight 3D Dungeons, but those releases retained the maps with 1.5 inch squares.
As with all Mage Knight products released during the early 2000s, the Mage Knight 3D Dungeons parts came prepainted. This is one of the reasons it attracted me. I had no desire or time to paint a gaming board.
HeroQuest is basically a large grid with a few pronounced lines for "Walls". The grid is 19 squares x 26 squares; this totals out to 494 floor tiles for the entire board. Counting the wall sections results in 261 individual internal walls. I am treating a single tile as a single square on the HeroQuest board. Yes, this will significantly increase the physical size of the playing field, but will not alter the basic board layout.
The Starter set of Mage Knight 3D Dungeons has 36 floor tiles and 24 Walls. It is the only product with walls. To acquire the 261 walls necessary, it would take 11 starter boxes, with only 3 wall tiles in excess. The doors could be used as false doors/walls, and that would reduce the number of boxes to about 9. I did not choose to go this way.
With 11 starter sets, there will be 396 floor tiles. These will need to be supplemented by an additional 98 tiles. This is where the Mage Knight 3D Dungeons Floor Pack comes into play. With 36 floor tiles in each box, it will take 3 boxes, with only 10 excess floor tiles. I also chose to avoid this path.
I highly recommend not bothering with the Mage Knight 3D Dungeons Floor Pack. It is only floor tiles, and though they have their uses, I prefer to have the spare doors and walls. I found that the walls and the floor tiles can be brittle. Breakage is a real concern during assembly and use. I went with 14 starter boxes. This allows me some extra parts if something breaks.
The floor tiles are interlocking on all sides. Once assembled, they are very sturdy with little flexibility. The following images show how the tiles interlock using the black and grey tabs and a finished floor/board.
The 2 little holes at each corner have 2 functions. First is to hold up walls and doors. The second is to act as a bracing passage for wall and door pegs, providing perpendicular support for the floor tiles. Each junction has a minimum of 2 supports and a maximum of 3 if a wall or door is involved. This interlocking method leads to a very stable playing environment.
The walls have a single sculpt; this is really only noticeable upon close inspection. The wall's base flares slightly wider than its top and gives the wall some additional support once it is installed on the board. The only issue with the walls is the little plastic pegs that slip into the board holes. These can be temperamental; they do not flex, so rocking back and forth will break them. With one peg down, the wall is still useable; with both, though, it becomes less stable and will fall at the least provocation.
The doors come in painted "iron" and painted "wood". They have 2 points of articulation and can swing open or snap closed. When they are not installed on the board, they are easy to open, as they are slightly sprung. The frame compresses when installed. Also, they only swing slightly more than 90 degrees; if you push them past that point, they will break. I recommend that if you intend to use the open door, open it before you place it on the board.
With all of the parts in hand, the assembly takes a little over 30 minutes to an hour. This depends on how many parts you break or how proficient you are. I found that assembling long sections of floor rather than square sections of floor worked better and allowed me to progress quickly.
The HeroQuest board is separated into quadrants. Building the outside walls of these quadrants next will help ensure that you have the right layout of the rooms and the halls.
When these items were released back in 2003, I was not in a position to acquire them. This was unfortunate, as they were more rationally priced then than they are now on the secondary market. Most, if not all, of these items are still available on sites like eBay or on miniature trading sites like Bartertown.com.
- Dru
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cx8sl2uC46A
Because many new players have not seen this excellent bit of history.
This is a visual reference for HeroQuest 2021 Edition using the Talisman: The Magical Quest Game – 5th Edition 2024 by Avalon Hill. Talisman is a classic board game from the 1980's that has seen a ton of editions and expansions. Many players own various editions and may not want to plonk down the MSRP of $50 USD.
One of the nice things is that Avalon Hill is very consistent with the quality of their miniatures. It can be hard to shell out that amount of cash for only the 12 miniatures in the basic box. The fourth edition of the game had 18.
Because I prefer the female elf miniature from the 2021 edition of HeroQuest, I have chosen it as the scale reference miniature for all images in this article. All 12 Miniatures are shown here. A link to a downloadable PDF for the visual reference is provided at the end of this article.
Elf -vs- Assassin, Human Fighter
I have always had to wonder about the use of capes on assassin miniatures. Sure, they are cloaks, and the term cloak and dagger hints at their use, but for someone wanting to remain innocuous, this seems a little flamboyant. While it is very dynamic in appearance, the long hair and a cloak are easy to catch on things while trying to escape. Perhaps it could be used as a performer in a sideshow or circus act.
Elf -vs- Prophetess, Human Caster - Female
A nice solid and simple sculpt that could be used for multiple caster types or as a villager NPC.
Elf -vs- Elf Ranger - Female
This is a gender swap from the previous four editions and has a more dynamic pose.
Elf -vs- Dwarf Fighter
Other versions of this character in the older editions leave a lot to be desired. This one looks like he means business and is not as cartoonish as the third edition or as hunched over and constipated as the fourth edition.
Elf -vs- Wizard, Human Caster
I love the details on the book and the robes. He doesn't need to be only a wizard; he could also pass for most caster classes.
Elf -vs- Thief, Human Rogue
As with most rogue miniatures, this could easily pass as a ranger or even as a courier.
Elf -vs- Ghoul
The details on this miniature make it an easy jump to "undead elf ghoul", assuming ghouls are undead in your games.
Elf -vs- Warrior, Human Fighter - Female
Another gender swap. I like the dynamic pose; she really looks like she means business.
Elf -vs- Sorceress., Human Caster - Female
With all the skulls on this lady, she could be a warlock, a necromancer, a demonologist, or a nethermancer.
Elf -vs- Priest, Human Caster
Typical proselytizing priest. A static, stoic statue of a sculpt.
Elf -vs- Monk, Human, Fighter, Cleric
This is another of the less inspiring sculpts. I would have preferred a more Eastern-style monk. It seems to me like a missed opportunity to add some more variation to the game.
Elf -vs- Troll
Not your typical Dungeons and Dragons troll, or even the slim trolls of World of Warcraft. This fellow is beefy and required two photos.
I am happy with the miniatures in this box. These did not have odd warps and bends. They are packed snugly in a plastic tray that has enough give to allow for the release of the miniatures without bending them.
I have posted a PDF file of these reference images for download on my website.
I happened across this box of stuff on Ebay, and my eyes were drawn immediately to the right-hand corner at the top of photo 1.
It was more apparent in Photo 2
In Photo 3 I was certain that the bum of the original Yeti was peeking out.
Photo 4 has stuff from both the original Elf and Barbarian Quest Packs.
In Photo 5, sure enough, the yeti's bum shows up.
I guess after years of playing with these things, even subtle images can lead you down a rabbit hole. No, I did not purchase this box of stuff; I just thought I would share the experience.
This is not an advertisement; this is not my stuff. I have no interest in whether this gets sold or not.
UK Games Expo: New HeroQuest promo models
Photos by u/talismanisland
I love the boxes and the miniatures.
Paint 'n Pieces you tube channel for painting.
Not mine but I found it and thought I would share.
Would You Buy a Second Hand Game for $1,000.00?
Recently, I went looking for a specific board game. It has been out of print for the last four years and has a 20-year production history. During my search, I found several collections on eBay priced at more than $1,000 USD. Since that is a high price for the game, I contacted the seller after all, and they had several “Buy It Now” listings available.
The response to my questions could be summarized as: “We do not check, and we will not check, until a paying customer complains after purchase. Then we will do what we think is appropriate.” This was presented as quality customer service. Knowing I am not the only person buying used games, I felt it was appropriate to provide some guidelines for buying and selling secondhand games.
You cannot play a game without all of its parts. You are going to want the following:
Promotional materials can be advertisements, posters, or freebie giveaways that are used to drum up interest often times sellers will want extra for these items. They should be treated as though they were normal items and judged in the same manner. Once the quality has been determined, the “collectible” aspect should be considered.
Unique or limited print items can cause the cost of a game to skyrocket and the game is generally playable without them. These types of items should be considered on a case-by-case basis.
The terms generally used are, “New in Box (NIB)”, “Unpunched”, “Punched”, “Lightly played”, and “played”. Consider that most sellers overvalue their products. They will ask for top dollar for their sale, even if it is not in top condition.
When buying ask your seller the following questions:
When selling take the time to inform your potential buyer of any and all of the previous situations prior to the purchase. A happy, informed customer is far more of an asset than a bitter, disgruntled customer who feels as though they were taken advantage of and left to rot.
Just because it is Out of Print (OOP), doesn’t mean that it demands a high price. Many sellers overvalue their items because they equate OOP with “Rare and Valuable”. Just because a game is no longer available at retail stores does not automatically make it collectible. Always check multiple locations for a good idea of the market price of a game.
When buying be clear about your requirements and what you are willing to pay, be willing to walk away from a bad deal or a seller that refuses to answer your questions directly.
When Selling: price your product fairly, and describe the product accurately. A statement of “see the photos” and then not supplying detailed photos is a dead giveaway of a bad deal.
Whether buying or selling, always check your pricing:
Consider shipping costs from the supplier to your address. This can make or break a sale. Anything shipping into the United States has a ridiculous import fee tied to it, as with shipping to Australia or the European Union, if you are not in those places.
Many modern games have lots of expansions and sellers, either by chance or by intent, erroneously classify expansions. This is easy to do when the game title is first, and the expansion name is second. Be certain you know the expansions issued for your chosen game.
When Buying Expansions you should be clear about the title of the expansion, what year it was published (this helps with edition issues), and what edition the expansion is intended for. Some games, like HeroQuest and Descent: Journeys in the Dark, have multiple editions, and not all of the expansions are intended for all editions.
When Selling Expansions you should be clear about the title of the expansion, what year it was published and the intended edition of the expansion.
Kickstarter and promotional expansions can be difficult to verify without photos and records of what exactly is included in the Kickstarter or promotional pack. Always be wary when buying open Kickstarter kits. When selling Kickstarter kits, always include the information from the Kickstarter that applies to what is being sold.
With the advent of the 3D printer, game part printing companies, and game card printing companies, fakes, counterfeits, bootlegs, and other non-official products make it to the secondary market. HeroQuest, Magic the Gathering, and HeroScape are all subject to this situation. When you have a product that you believe is a fake, do not sell it to someone else. Notify the individual from whom you purchased it and let them know why it is a forgery.
A few giveaways to help determine forgeries.
This is for both buyer and the seller. As a buyer, eBay has some buyer protections in place, as dose Paypal Goods and Services, and your credit card. As a seller, your protections come from a clear and concise description with good communication. The term buyer beware, is an old adage for a reason. For large purchases, use an escrow company or a payment plan system that will allow for termination if the situation goes awry.
Some things that are red flags to recognize from either the buyer or the seller.
Trust is earned and can be demonstrated.
A trustworthy buyer asks all the questions and expresses all concerns. They pay on time and have a history of doing so. They do not balk at paying for tracking on their purchases. Striving to be a trustworthy buyer is a worthy goal. That way, if or when you end up in a situation, you are more likely to be judged as honest.
A trustworthy seller answers the detailed questions, provides clear and quality images of the items for sale, honestly describes the flaws of the product, ships with a tracking number and allows returns if there are issues.
The seller refuses to give an inventory, refuse photos, claims “lots of interest” trying to garner the Fear of Missing Out. They use stock only photos and avoid or refuse to answer component questions. They expect the customer to inventory the purchase and then file a complaint rather than supply records of the contents of the game.
The buyer refuses to use tracked shipping, they refuse to provide verified address, they decline to ask any questions (this is a dead giveaway that the sale is going to head south). They want the cheapest shipping possible. They request to pay in cash, via a non-certified cash system, or through a questionable third-party process. They wait a week after the receipt of the product to notify you of issues regarding the purchase.
For both the seller and the buyer it is a good practice to review the history of the other party to get an idea of the individual with whom you are doing business. Look at the negatives as well as the positives. Look at the age of the account; this is a gauge of the stability of the other party.
Second hand games should be packed inside with filler to keep the box from crumpling during shipping. They should be wrapped in a layer of bubble wrap, and the corners should be protected to prevent the box from being damaged during transit. Components and cards should be securely packed to prevent damage during shipping. It is the responsibility of the customer to express this requirement and be willing to pay for the shipping and handling charges. It is the responsibility of the seller to make certain the game is delivered in as good a condition as it can be within the limits allowed by the buyer. If a buyer wants to cheap out on the shipping, then the damages they receive will need to be clearly communicated to them prior to shipping.
As touched on earlier, there is a modern phenomenon that is pushed by game manufacturers through the use of artificial and perceived scarcity. This is the Fear of Missing out (FOMO) and Collector Hype, both are fed into the board game community consistently through limited releases like Kickstarter or Gamefound, or through bad distribution practices like Hasbro. This effect can have an undue effect on the behavior of buyers and sellers. The thing to remember is that in the secondary market, all used things come around again and again. Patience is a key attribute when trying to complete a collection or find just the right game. The scarcity is inevitably false.
Here is a 10 point practical checklist to use before purchasing any game on the secondary market:
Ask the seller for:
If anything feels evasive, rushed, or too good to be true, it probably is. Often, it is better to walk away. In the secondary market for games, another copy will almost always appear.
I posted previously ,but was removed, the reasons seamed off but ok. I rewrote the entire thing for my web page and elected to share it here anyway. I think that it might help some folks when buying on the secondary games market.
Recently, I went looking for a specific board game. It has been out of print for the last four years and has a 20-year production history. During my search, I found several collections on eBay priced at more than $1,000 USD. Since that is a high price for the game, I contacted the seller after all they had several “Buy It Now” listings available.
The response to my questions could be summarized as: “We do not check, and we will not check, until a paying customer complains after purchase. Then we will do what we think is appropriate.” This was presented as quality customer service. Knowing I am not the only person buying used games, I felt it was appropriate to provide some guidelines for buying and selling secondhand games.
You cannot play a game without all of its parts. You are going to want the following:
Promotional materials can be advertisements, posters, or freebie giveaways that are used to drum up interest often times sellers will want extra for these items. They should be treated as though they were normal items and judged in the same manner. Once the quality has been determined then the “collectible” aspect should be considered.
Unique or limited print items can cause the cost of a game to skyrocket and the game is generally playable with out them. These types of items should be considered on a case by case basis.
The terms generally used are, “New in Box (NIB)”, “Unpunched”, “Punched”, “Lightly played”, and “played”. Consider that most sellers over value their products. They will ask for top dollar for their sale even if it is not in top condition.
When buying ask your seller the following questions:
When selling take the time to inform your potential buyer of any and all of the previous situations prior to the purchase. A happy informed customer is far more of an asset than a disgruntled, bitter customer that feels as though they were taken advantage of and left to rot.
Just because it is Out of Print (OOP), doesn't mean that it demands a high price. Many sellers over value their items because they equate OOP with “Rare and Valuable”. Just because a game is no longer available at retail stores, does not automatically make it collectible. Always check multiple locations for a good idea of the market price of a game.
When buying be clear about your requirements and what you are willing to pay, be willing to walk away from a bad deal or a seller that refuses to answer your questions directly.
When Selling: price your product fairly, and describe the product accurately. A statement of “see the photos” and then not supply detailed photos is a dead giveaway of a bad deal.
Whether buying or selling always check your pricing:
Consider shipping costs from the supplier to your address. This can make or break a sale. Anything shipping into the United States has a ridiculous import fee tied to it, as with shipping to Australia or the European Union, if you are not in those places.
Many modern games have lots of expansions and sellers, either by chance or by intent, erroneously classify expansions. This is easy to do when the game title is first and the expansion name is second. Be certain you know the expansions issued for your chosen game.
When Buying Expansions you should be clear about the title of the expansion, what year it was published (this helps with edition issues), and what edition the expansion is intended for. Some games like HeroQuest and Descent: Journeys in the Dark have multiple editions and not all of the expansions are intended for all editions.
When Selling Expansions you should be clear about the title of the expansion, what year it was published and the intended edition of the expansion.
Kickstarter and promotional expansions can be difficult to verify without photos and records of what exactly is included in the Kickstarter or promotional pack. Always be weary when buying open Kickstarter kits. When selling Kickstarter kits always include the information from the Kickstarter that applies to what is being sold.
With the advent of the 3D printer, game part printing companies, and game card printing companies, fakes, counterfeits, bootlegs, and other non-official products make it to the secondary market. HeroQuest, Magic the Gathering, and HeroScape are all subject to this situation. When you have a product that you believe is a fake do not sell it to someone else. Notify the individual from who you purchased it and let them know why it is a forgery.
A few giveaways to help determine forgeries.
This is for both buyer and the seller. As a buyer ebay has some buyer protections in place, as dose Paypal Goods and Services, and your credit card. As a seller your protections come from a clear and concise description with good communication. The term buyer beware, is an old adage for a reason. For large purchase use an escrow company or a payment plan system that will allow for termination if the situation goes awry.
Some things that are red flags to recognize from either the buyer or the seller.
Trust is earned and can be demonstrated.
A trustworthy buyer asks all the questions and expresses all concerns. They pay on time and have a history of doing so. They do not balk a paying for tracking on their purchases. Striving to be a trustworthy buyer is a worthy goal. That way when, or if, you end up in a situation you are more likely to be judged as honest.
A trustworthy seller answers the detailed questions, provides clear and quality images of the items for sale, honestly describes the flaws of the product, ships with a tracking number and allows returns if there are issues.
The seller refuses to give an inventory, refuse photos, claims “lots of interest” trying to garner the Fear of Missing Out. They use stock only photos, avoids or refuses to answer component questions. They expect the customer to inventory the purchase and then file a complaint rather than supply records of the contents of the game.
The buyer refuses to use tracked shipping, they refuse to provide verified address, they decline to ask any questions (this is a dead giveaway that the sale is going to head south). They wan the cheapest shipping possible. They request to pay in cash, via a non certified cash system, or through a questionable third party process. They wait a week after reception of the product to notify you of issues regarding the purchase.
For both the seller and the buyer it is a good practice to review the history of the other party to get an idea of the individual with whom you are doing business. Look at the negatives as well as the positives. Look at the age of the account, this is a gauge of the stability of the other party.
Second hand games should be packed inside with filler to keep the box from crumpling during shipping. They should be wrapped in a layer of bubble wrap and the corners should be protected to prevent the box from damaged during transit. Components and cards should be securely packed to prevent damage during shipping. It is the responsibility of the customer to express this requirement and be willing to pay for the shipping and handling charges. It is the responsibility of the seller to make certain the game is delivered in as good a condition as it can be with in the limits allowed by the buyer. If a buyer wants to cheap out on the shipping then the damages they receive will need to be clearly communicated to them prior to shipping.
As touched on earlier there is a modern phenomenon that is pushed by game manufacturers through the use of artificial and perceived scarcity. This is the Fear of Missing out (FOMO) and Collector Hype, both are fed in to the board game community consistently through limited releases like Kickstarter or Gamefound, or through bad distribution practices like Hasbro. This effect can have an undue effect on the behavior of buyers and sellers. The thing to remember is that in the secondary market, all used things come around again and again. Patience is a key attribute when trying to complete a collection or find just the right game. The scarcity is inevitably false.
Here is a 10 point practical checklist to use before purchasing any game on the secondary market:
Ask the seller for:
If anything feels evasive, rushed, or too good to be true, it probably is. Often it is better to walk away. In the secondary market for games, another copy will almost always appear.
- Dru
" Individual components have not been counted, but are believed to be complete except where noted above. "
Questions:
I could understand if this were a single one off situation, but ebay is riddled with this nonsense. Noble Knight Games used to be a good place to get the hard to find stuff because they took the time to do the job right. Now, not so much, and this is in all of their listings that I have looked at, which is about 10.
Sadly this behavior is it is appearing across a large swath of the board games I have been looking at.
So the question is, would you spend 1000 USD on a used game where the seller refuses to verify parts?
TLDR: r/HeroQuest will not ban content made with the help of AI tools.
HeroQuest is the reason we are here. Our community includes people from many countries, religions, and backgrounds. We may come from different places and speak different languages, but we come here because we enjoy HeroQuest. The excitement of the game, the fun it creates, and the friendships it builds, that is what brings us together.
Artificial intelligence (AI) has been part of digital artistic tools for decades. Programs like Photoshop, CorelDraw, and CAD use AI in their functionality. Phone camera filters use AI. Major technology companies such as Microsoft, Google, and Apple also use AI in the background of their systems. Simply put, AI is common in today’s digital world and cannot be avoided if you use creative software or a computer.
Hasbro, which owns the HeroQuest intellectual property, and Avalon Hill, which currently holds the license to the game, both use AI in game development and item production. AI is also used in the official HeroQuest companion app.
This community is a place to share ideas, creativity, and joy related to HeroQuest. Arguments about politics, religion, personal lifestyles, and prejudice, do not belong here. We understand that people have different opinions, but this community is not the place to discuss those opinions.
Personal attacks against members of this community will not be accepted. Harassing a community member because of a perception that AI may have been used is not permitted. Attacking their shared work is not allowed. Posts intended to create conflict will be removed. Repeats of that behavior will lead to temporary warning bans, continued actions in the same vein will lead to permanent removal.
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The only thing better than HeroQuest is more HeroQuest. If someone creates homebrew content, it belongs here. If you do not enjoy certain content or disagree with it, express your self civilly or simply choose not to interact with it. If you find it offensive report it, our Mod team takes all reports seriously.
A “How to” for moving large creatures in HeroQuest. Written using the mobile application as the source of the research. This is how the app works, it is not a homebrew rules set. As with all of my new articles a PDF version is available for download at the end for the readers located in countries where the image hosting provider is banned.
The actual article exceeds the size limits for images on reddit, so there are only 3 pages for the example. (Link)
