u/Magic_Man_11007

Hi everyone,

I am having some major issues getting large ABS prints to succeed without massive warping.

As a background: I have designed a mount to hold a Victron 250/80 MPPT VE Can so that it can be actively cooled by a rear 140mm fan. The units get quite warm and they are heavy - hence I chose ABS as a compromise. Enough temperature resistance and strength. And not as expensive as ASA - I need to print 3.

So far the warping seems to ocurr at the edges when the bottom section with the fan hole has been fully printed. After that its basically game over - the warping becomes suddenly extreme. You can see from the supplied images.

To point out what I have done so far:

·       2h preheat/soak my P2S chamber before printing. Temperature remained between 45-48°C. I added a heat saver flap to the poop chute

·       Dried my ABS according to Bambu instructions - 80°C for 8 hours

·       Properly cleaned my engineering plate with detergent and warm water and did not touch the surface anymore so no oil

·       I applied adhesive on the plate - 3DLAC

·       I got rid of sharp corners in the design and rounded out where possible

o   Big brims were not possible as the part is ~250mm wide - almost fills the plate widthwise

·       Increased the heatbed temp to 100°C from 90°C

·       Keeping part fan low at ~10%

FYI: As this is a heavy(er) duty part the infill is gyroid 30% with a wall layer thickness of 5 layers. I use a 0.4mm nozzle with the 0.2mm Bambu P2S quality preset inlcuding supports. The supports were an ABSOLUTE NIGHTMARE to remove. Took me 30min and 5L of boiling hot water to free the plate of all residue 😔

What I did notice in the slicer - at layer 71 the part fan goes beserk and up to 80% for only that layer. After that it returns to 10% - see screenshot of slicer. Could that be a cause for the warping? I don't really know why it does this in the first place.

So the questions are:

·       Do you have any advice what else I could change to make it work:

o   different material e.g. ASA

o   different build plate

o   Different slicer settings

o   Print in different orientation

o   literally anything else...

Any advice from the veterans would be highly appreciated!

·       Printer Model: P2S

·       Slicer used: bambu Studio

·       Filament material and brand: Bambu Lab ABS

·       Nozzle and bed temperature: 270°C / 100°C

·       Print Speed: 0.2mm quality preset

·       Retraction settings: Standard

Thank you everyone 👏

[deleted]

Good evening everyone,

I recently bought 3 of these 4-pin PWN fan controller boards. I want to use them for a Noctua 140mm fan cooling solution for my victron MPPT 250/80's. However, I fell into the trap that the onboard 4-pin PWN connector is not a standard "pc fan" size. It is significantly wider, has thicker pins and they are longer too. I have not been able to find what kind of 4-pin connector this is or which adapter I need to covnert it to a regular PC fan size 4-pin pwm header.

This is the link to the unit:

PWM board - Amazon

If anyone knows this please let me know as I'm running out of places to search.

Thank you everyone 👍

Good evening everyone,

I recently finished my BLV AMS 2 Pro riser and it turned out really nice (don't look too close at the rear rounded corners 😅)

My next to-do is how to implement the TPU assist moduel. I have a 4-in-1 PTFE adapter from Bambu (2nd image) that I want to combine with the assist module.

Ideally I'd like to install a holder for the assist/ptfe adapter on the rear right modular bracket. The left will be occupied with the PSU holder for the AMS. The grey modular adapters on the right should remain available for an AMS HT in future.

Has anyone ever made something similar for a P2S? I've found some individual designs but nothing that combines them.

If someone has seen something similar I'd be happy to hear from you. Otherwise I'll be CAD'ing for a while 😅

Thank you everyone 👍 🙌