The ol' lady got me an LDO 2.4 kit for my Bday! Printing my parts to get started. The Creality K2 Plus has been fun, but it's time for a real printer! Not a fan of Creality's cheap failing parts.
I've been using Orca Slicer for almost a year now. It was my go to as I really dislike Creality Print. But after the last update I send a print over to the K2 Plus and when I'm using the side spool (which is almost always) the printer does some funky stuff. It cuts the already loaded filament and then gives me a filament missing error. I know this has to do with Orca thinking I'm using a CFS. How can I fix this 🙏
I was able to setup my meshcore Heltec V4 on my Android easily but I'm having issues with the second Heltec and this damn iPhone. Any advice would be great.
I had an extrusion issue and a very thin layer of PETG was applied to the plate before I noticed and stopped the print. I now cannot get the filament off. I've tried the following:
- Scraping
- hot water and dawn dish soap with Scotch Brite pad
- heating the bed up to 100 C to soften the filament
Next step is freezing the plate and trying to peel the filament off. Any other suggestions?
I'm planning on ordering an LDO 2.4 R2 D+ 350 mm kit and currently own a K2 Plus. I'll be printing out all the printable parts, I've also thought about just sourcing each part from the Voron BOM but I consistently keep reading it costs more in the long run and can be a hassle.
My question is, how can I configure a 2.4 to be able to use my K2 Build Plates. I have all of the DarkMoon plates and would love to have them interchangeable.
I made some hose clamps for my Evil Energy fuel lines for a classic car I'm putting fuel injection on. This is my first time printing ASA-CF. It appears the first layer is separated if you look close. Also, this shit is brittle as hell when it's in its raw format. Struggled with getting it started because the filament would break right at the 90 bend going into the toolhead. Any K2 users have any advice for better prints? Temps - 270 nozzle, 50 chamber, 90 bed.
I've been seeing info on a Trident R2 build either coming or already available. I know there's some info on GitHub and apologies if I'm spewing incorrect info. I purchased a Creality K2 Plus last year and have been really wanting to build a Voron the past few months. Being that the Trident R2 seems to be the latest/greatest I would love to build one but can't find any kits (like an LDO kit), so I'd probably have to source the parts myself.
Am I getting too far ahead and I should just give the company time to release the kits or do I build a Trident and add the upgrades?
I have built 2 BC-250's and now working on a 3rd. I did a custom design I created on fusion including a case that was all air cooled but now that we have the option of unlocking CU's I figured let's max this b' out. But after looking at this Arctic AIO, this thing is f'n massive! I may have bitten off more than I can chew.
I might just use 2020 aluminum extrusion as a frame and 3D print panels to mount the PSU, BC-250, & radiator to. This will allow me to control the airflow but also have a solid frame to handle the weight and allow me to transport this beast. I'll keep you nerds posted.
Has anyone tried this? I want to give this a try and print it in ABS but not sure the juice is worth the squeeze.
Been having a ton of issues with unloading filament on my K2 Plus with my DXC2 extruder. Reached out to Phaetus and they recommend removing the lower left magnet on the support plate as they state it interferes with the hall sensor. Very disappointing that they are aware of this issue and haven't made an easily accessible video or instructions on how to remove it.
But if you find yourself having issues, if you remove the plate fully, you'll find a small hole on the back where you can use a hex key to push out the pressed magnet, then run a cutter calibration after re-install.
Used a cheap Chinese carbon fiber texture plate today and the filament didn't hold and began to blob. Didn't catch it till it had already covered my nozzle & hot end. Luckily I paused the print while the hotend was still at 220 and pulled the blob off. No residue on my nozzle because I religiously use 3D nozzle protection Coating from Wanjao. Took apart my microswiss hotend to make sure and everything back up and running. 🍆🍆🍆💦💦💦
Every time I finish a print or try changing filaments in my CMS this happens. I adjusted the cut offset in the config file and even did the cutter fix to run the OEM cutter. I'm out of solutions at this point.
This plate is really shitty. PLA lifts from the plate constantly. I shouldn't have to use adhesive with this 🤦🏼♂️
Printing on a smooth cool plate and now this is getting extremely noticeable. Is my Z offset too close or too far. K2 Plus printer BTW.
Doing some test prints in PETG. I made a few modifications, then I'll do it in ASA. Didn't calibrate the filament because I just wanted to get these printed out already.
I went to swap out my full DXC2 cutter with an OEM Creality one and was met with this issue. When it's in correctly (image 2) the printer gives an error saying no cutter detected. When the cutter is in incorrectly (image 1) and blocking the filament hole the printer thinks everything is fine 🤦🏼♂️
Anyone using this on a K2 printer? I had some wear on my tubing and swapped it out for some no name Chinese tubing and it jams constantly on filament unload. I'm getting some of this Creality Star low resistant tubing today.
I was having non-stop issues on my K2 Plus with PETG boogers, small hairs, and crap sticking to the nozzle. I started using this (https://a.co/d/0eIV8nRu). I'm super impressed with how my nozzle still looks brand new after several petg and ABS prints. 🙌
I have a DXC2 extruder and made the needed adjustments in the config files and it's been treating me well. I ordered a microswiss hotend as my OEM one "broke" (long story). Anybody using both? Things I should expect? When I swap nozzles is it really just a cold twist, add thermal grease and twist back in?