Image 1 — Scratches all over Print after Washing
Image 2 — Scratches all over Print after Washing
Image 3 — Scratches all over Print after Washing
Image 4 — Scratches all over Print after Washing
Image 5 — Scratches all over Print after Washing

Scratches all over Print after Washing

First three images show the problem, last two show pieces that turned out well.

I have been printing this really awesome chess set. And mostly it has been coming out fine aside for a few issues, but this one is really messing me up. I've been printing the tiles for the board. I am filling the plate, as many tiles I can fit. I managed 26 per plate. They were all identical. All supported the same, arranged the same, oriented the same. 26 black tiles was one print, 26 white tiles for the other. Now, I did the black first. Washed them, took them off their supports, left them to dry. Then I did the white.

Before I washed the white, I went to cure the black tiles, and found several of them were pretty beat up. 7 of 26 were all scratched and rough looking. Alright, that's annoying, but it could be worse.

Then I took the white ones off the plate, scrapped them all into my washing machine, set the wash cycle to go, and when I was pulling them out as they were done there were several issues. Not only did many have hefty layer lines, but many of these were also covered in scratches. 13/26 were all banged up, that's half. Very annoying, a lot of resin wasted, and a lot of confusion on my part.

I can understand the layer lines due to wobbling, there were none on the black tiles as I used extra heavy supports on those. But the scratches are something else entirely. Is that a printing problem? Or is it from the pieces falling from the plate and piling up in the washing machine? It is because the washing machine is moving them around and scraping them agaisnt each other? Is it debris of resin bits swirling around in the wash tank and scratching against the pieces? What is causing this? And how do I fix it?

If it is a washing problem, are there other, more scratch friendly ways to wash these?

u/MovingTugboat — 22 hours ago
▲ 6 r/capm

I did the first of Agilemania's practice exams and got a 67%...I was hoping you guys would be able to help me clarify some of these questions I got wrong, because I am not too sure.

If you can help me understand even just a few of these that would be a big help, I know it's a lot., thank sin advance.

At this rate I'm never passing this fucking exam.

u/MovingTugboat — 9 days ago
▲ 1 r/capm

Huh??? How does this question make sense? (Landini Quiz)

I am trying Landini's quiz for the first time. I didn't realize he only had a question bank of 55 items. Either way, it is chalk full of stuff I've never even heard of. That's fine, if I need to study more and learn them that makes sense. But THIS question grinded my gears.

Its asking about elimination or reducing. Those are two different things. Eliminating the risk entirely is avoiding. Reducing the probability of it occuring is mitigating.

I picked B, but it says A. Am I wrong here? Is this question not asking about two DIFFERENT risk response strategies? Why should I have picked avoidance when it also mentions mitigation? Or am I just wrong about mitigation is?

u/MovingTugboat — 10 days ago

To All Those Who Said It Could Not Be Done...You Were Wrong!

I Made a post here a while back about a big ass model I was trying to print and it wasn't working. Here is it, see for yourself:

https://www.reddit.com/r/PrintedWarhammer/s/StUsnUgWdn

I got tons of feedback, and lots of people saying I needed to turn the model 45 and support it myself cause this presupported model wasn't made well enough. And while I did that for the base, I did not do that for the main model because I simply refused. Yes, I was having failures. Turns out a few fep, new resin and manually realigned build plate fixed that right up. (My FEP was pretty stretched out and needed to be changed soon anyway)

So Today it finally printed, properly, as it came presupported. Just as I knew it would. It came out flawlessly, better than expected, though smaller than I thought it would be. You were all wrong, and never should have doubted me, I always find a way.

So in the words of Dr. Dre circa 1999

"So Fuck Y'all,

All Y'all

And if y'all don't like me

Blow me"

The rest of the lyrics after that are not applicable to this situation so I can't go further than that.

I have no limitations.

This was not meant to throw shade at anyone, it's a joke. I just wanted to show off this cool Belakor proxy I printed. I am Very Happy with it. Please Don't ban me...

u/MovingTugboat — 10 days ago

Print Too Big, Failing Early, Need Help

This will probably be logn so please bare with me. Any and all help is appreciated. So this print is presupported, and I am printing it at double its original size. I have never printed a model this big before. I am wanting to run it as Belakor, and on its base, with its wings, it is roughly the correct size. (At least it should be).

I have already printed the wings at double size. There were no failures, they came out perfectly.

These two however, did not. I came to check on them, and the prints were stuck to the fep. It was only at layer 144, but as for which layer actually failed is uncertain.

I thought it was supported MORE than well enough, but apparently it's not. I haven't printed it at its original size, so I can't say for sure, but this is not a model I ever want to support manually. There are just too many DAMNED protruding details, and the amount of supports on it do not leave me thinking it will be an even remotely enjoyable experience.

What I can say for certain is that layer 144 had not even reached the foot. I figured that if the supports were strong enough to hold at its original size, they would not be weaker when twice as big. Not to mention, they are no bigger than a standard lichee Heavy support. I am not understanding why this failed then, when the supports are standard size, the model is VERY well supported, and my calibration settings are not off, (unless a model this big requires an adjusted exposure time. I originally tried printing a model from the same creator for a demon prince and had to shrink it to 40% of its original size. Most of them came out perfectly, 4 did not, all on one side of the plate. Maybe I have an alignment issue, but I hardly believe I am having the same issue here.

I understand that with models this big, Hollowing needs to be done. I have never printed something this big, I have never hollowed a model before and I don't know what I'm doing. If I hollow it out correctly, and put drainage holes in the feet, do you think it will print successfully? How much should I hollow it? Any tips for Hollowing that I need to know? Do I need supports inside the model?

Is there anything else I should do to ensure the print's success? Any and all help would be appreciated.

(last Picture is the unsupported versions to give you an idea of what I'm working with here)

I'm using Anycubic ABS like Pro 2 Grey resin, and Printing on a Saturn 4, if you need any more information just let me know.

u/MovingTugboat — 20 days ago
▲ 1 r/capm

New here, looking for advice.

Hey everyone. This is going to be long, sorry. Please bare with me. I have been working toward my CAPM since January. I took a CAPM course on Udemy that was not very in depth, and then I took Andrew Ramdaiyl's PMP course (not realizing he had a CAPM one at the time). Since taking it I have spent months learning and memorizing the 49 processes and all their main ITTO's, using all the information from this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-iX_loFfq0&list=PL7CKcSfCp6eazWLkOjm5jQ0BsCu5v9odP

I know I don't need to memorize them. I just didn't know how else to learn them... I can't completely name them all off without mistakes, but I know them all enough that I would recognize it if asked about it. On practice tests, I score usually an 80 or above on anything predictive related. I also made flash cards for all the ITTOs and processes, and of the 250 or so flash cards I have, I usually get no more then 25 wrong. I think I'm doing okay there. I've done several YouTube quizzes too, and have done pretty well on all of them except one that had a bunch of BA questions on it, (I hadn't learned BA yet.)

Two weeks ago I started going over agile stuff. I've done pretty well on quizzes so far, I find agile stuff to be rather straight forward and common sense based, but its also harder to study as its less processes and lists that I can take extensive notes on.

I have taken notes for the TIA PMP course I did, and last weekend I realized the PMP course had no BA in it, so I went back and bought Ramdaiyl's CAPM course, went through all the BA stuff, and plan to do the process domain stuff too, and all the practice quizzes so far. I aced the BA quizzes, did well on 2-3 agile quizzes, and am working my way through the predictive stuff. Both it and the PMP course have 3 hour, 150 question practice exams, and I also have PMI's practice exam which I plan to do this weekend.

My question is, what am I missing? What are the things I really need to know for agile and BA? Do I need to know the 35 BA process? Cause that's a lot to add onto the 49 predictive ones. I've heard there's a lot of really hard BA questions on this exam, and that it's pretty rough. I have been working at this for too long and I just want to get this thing done. Any tips or idea of what this will look like would be super helpful (obviously you can't tell me what's on the test) but If I am missing anything I really need to know well for Agile or BA, that would be great to know.

And if you know of any other resources for practice tests (bonus points if they aren't expensive) I will happily take all I can get. If anyone who has passed recently has any advice or tools or tips they can send my way, I would highly appriciate it and would surely need it.

reddit.com
u/MovingTugboat — 20 days ago

Which Way Should I Orient this for Supports

I don't have much experience with unsupported models, especially at this size, and this is a tricky one. Sadly there's no PreSupported version. Trying to print two of these for Hades Breaching drills. I know I wont do it straight up but at an angle, but I'm not sure how steep or if I have to rotate it or anything.

My main question is, should I do drill side down? Or drill side up? If the drill side is up I feel like it would print better, so that I don't need to support each of those teeth, but the bottom side is open, the model is hollow on the inside with a conveyor through it, so I feel like that would make it harder. How would the more experienced printers do it?

Has anyone worked with this model before? How did you do it if so?

Thanks for any and all help!

u/MovingTugboat — 21 days ago

Which Model Looks More To Scale for Angron/Skarbrand?

Just doing some size comparison testing before I try to print some models here. Not sure if I have the scale represented correctly here.

The model in the middle is the height of a guardsman. The model it is being compared to original fits on a 50mm base, and it about the height of a demon prince.

I am using this model, and a few others in the same file pack to run as some large demons for my world eaters. I'm making Angron, Skarbrand, and a Bloodthirster. As well as Belakor, as I want them all, these will be fun to paint and will look really cool on the table.

The second image I have a scale of a guardsman next to both Angron and Skarbrand.

The original model I'm using for this demon fits a 50mm base, and so realistically I should double its scale (right) but that seemed too tall. A 150% scale increase looks a little better (left) but I'm not sure if I'm just under estimating the size difference here. Its also hard cause the gw models have terrain on the bases, but it looks like the guardsman goes up to about the knee. That requirement is kind of being met for both of them here.

Anyone here have any recommendations? Do either of these look right for anyone who owns the models? Should I do something in the middle, maybe 175%?

Thanks for any and all help!

u/MovingTugboat — 22 days ago