r/resinprinting

What the title says, i am going to test and calibrate a resione resin and i want to test it with a simple model before doing actual joints and stuff, Does anyone know about a model like this? With simple joints, i don't want to do a dummy 13 for this because that's too many pieces for a test

Edit: because i think i didn't explain correctly, i am going to calibrate using the usual tests(cones, boxes) then after that i am going to print a model is what i meant, of course i am not dumb enough to try and calibrate with an actual model, hence why i didn't want to use a dummy 13, too many parts to test a post calibration result /:

Hello,

My Rosalina printed on Photon P1 🥰

Model by GomerArts : 👾 Rosalina de Mario Galaxy・Fichier 3D pour Impression 3D・Cults

Model is from tanuki figires on patreon

Hi everyone,

I’m a casual printer and in the last couple of months. I had a lot of success with the elegoo mars 3 pro. Little problem here and there but about a 85%+ success rate (mostly print not fully sticking to the plate on one side).

Lately, I’m down to around 40% success because most print, small or large will delaminate at random. The picture is my biggest failure but most of the time it’s a small to medium crack or the print looking like it just stop close to the end (rest is at the button of the resin tank).

Doing the same print twice will sometimes work and sometimes fail and changing orientation did not improve things. I tried printing full model to avoid the suction effect of hollow geometry but no difference.

I was using a 2s cure time with 75mm/s lift speed and 2mm of lift height. I am now using 2s cure time with 40mm/s lift speed and 4mm lift height but again, it maybe improved my success rate to 50% while making my print twice as long.

Now I’m down to 3 possible problem but open to more suggestions .

1. Temperature: It’s spring and I stopped the heating where I live. It’s around 30c in the day and 8c in the night (most of my print are done during the night). Wondering if the temperatures shift could delaminate my print. I don’t think the shift in the room is that extreme but I’m sure there is still a difference.

2. New resin: I was using in the past the elegoo 8k water washable resin and about when the problem started, I switch to the 8k water washable resin 2.0. The parameters on the website are the same but maybe this is not accurate.

3. Old fep film: could be the problem but my film is about 40 prints old and still look pretty good. I was able to successfully print with way more damaged film.

4. Open to other ideas

Surely this has been discussed previously, but I'm a bit out of ideas here. I'm trying to print two patterned plates (7cm x 7cm) that are supposed to sit tightly on top of each other (it's an engineering thing...). They come out of the printer very straight (pic 1), however after curing they're warped / bent inwards way too much for my application (pic 2).

They are printed with a Formlab Form3, washed with IPA, then cured at 80°C for 7min. The resin you see is the Formlabs Rigid 10K, which we had high hopes in after failing with other heat resistant resins (e.g. the Formlabs High Temp). All the resins we used were brand-new. We tried to print with and without supports, different angles, different curing durations, even tried to press it down slightly during curing. No matter the effort, the piece always ends up warped / bent.

Any ideas what I could be missing here?

Photo 1 shaws the defect one the left eye. The same part but flipped upside down is on the second picture. No problem there.

My first thought was a broken stl but the the other one should have a issue to right?

I got tired of going through liters of alcohol, and trying to recycle it through other means was a mess to say the least. So I decided to design this "thing". I don't have a name for it, and the design is not final by any means. I have three different shell designs in the works that all fit onto the same internal frame, with three different control interfaces (simple on/off - buttons with arduino and screen to adjust time- rotating wheel with arduino screen). I just wanted to get your ideas on what to add, or change.

Edit - And yes I will be uploading the documentation, bill of materials and stl files once I am done prototyping.

There she is, fully painted! This is actually a reprint, as I increased her size by 5cm for a total height of 35cm. She was painted entirely with acrylic paints. Unfortunately, I can’t upload more photos here, but she’s available to order on my Etsy page!

Hi, is don't know if its normal, but this spots start to show up on my LCD, I didn't spill any resin and nothing happen the spots just appear. This is normal? How can i get rid of it? I tried do clean using alcohol and a fiber cloth and the spots just remains.

Thanks in advance

I have set up my new printer in a little room on the balcony. Noone would go in there except me and I wear a respirator + gloves and glasses.

But Im wondering if the gases from the resin might be a problem for people that would be on the balcony sometimes? Will it be enough that room is open on top and I will open the door + blow the fumes out with a ventilator in the night to clear the air?

Test print of Gyro Zeppeli (JoJo’s Bizarre Adventure: Steel Ball Run) by Bulkamancer Sculpts.

Printed on Anycubic Photon P1 & ELEGOO Saturn 3 Ultra using Conjure Sculpt Beige resin.

Sculpted by Alex Gray and Daria Lozynina

Printed Siraya Tech Fast and Tenacious ABS-like blend at 25 micron layer height, Anycubic M7.

Sharing my Viper sculpt from VALORANT, print-ready STL. Tried to capture her in-game silhouette as faithfully as I could — the toxic cloud base is hollow underneath to keep resin use down. If you want to print her yourself, the STL is available here: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/viper-valorant-riot-games — happy to answer any questions about supports or hollowing settings!

I’m a frontend developer and a couple months ago I started building an app for miniature painting because I was using different apps, spreadsheets, and tools for things like paint conversion, inventory tracking, recipes, and color references, and wanted something that combined it all in one place.

What started as a small side project somehow turned into BrushForge, basically a toolkit app for miniature painters.

It’s been a while since I last shared an update, and BrushForge has been growing really well since then, it has now surpassed 5,000+ users, which is honestly amazing to see.

It’s taken a lot of work so far. The app isn’t vibecoded and has around 800 hours put into it, and I’ve been slowly adding the stuff I personally kept wishing existed in one place. In the meantime, I’ve also added a bunch of new features and improvements, and I’m still working on it daily to make it better.

Right now it has things like:

• Paint conversion between brands
• Paint inventory + wishlist tracking
• Finding approximate paints from images
• Recipe/palette/project management
• Community recipes and inspiration
• Paint info like complementary colors, shadows/highlights, etc.

One really cool thing is that some paint brands have started reaching out and offering to provide proper paint data for the app, which has honestly been awesome to see.

The Android version just launched recently — iOS has been out a bit longer.

It’s still a solo hobby project, and honestly most of the money it makes just goes straight back into development and data costs.

If anyone tries it, I’d genuinely love feedback from painters on what feels useful, missing, annoying, or overcomplicated. Also always looking for better paint databases/resources if anyone knows good ones.

You can find it by searching BrushForge on the App Store or Google Play.