u/Mr222D

Hi all,

This one may be better for the E30 group but this is on my E36.

I have installed the Revshift rear subframe and trailing arm bushings, in addition to welding on the adjustment channels with eccentric bolts. From the factory, the bolts both come from the inside of the trailing arm, so I went to do the same but I am unsure of if I can tighten the nut on the outer bolt with the subframe installed. Maybe I can remove the bushing and put the bolt in from the bushing side and then tighten the nut on the inside after the wheel alignment? Then it may be tricky to do the adjustment. Do y'all ever notch the bushings? Maybe I'm overthinking it. Any tips would be super duper. Thanks!

Hi all, I am curious if anyone has some insight on my early 944.

The car has been a bit finnicky to start and has had notable vacuum leaks for years, but once it would out of the idle regime it felt fine.

Since then I did a big maintenance where I completed the following:

• Intake manifold off
• new intake manifold to head gaskets
• new throttle body to intake manifold O-ring
• new timing and balance shaft belts
• new radiator
• re-sealed the coolant hose-to-head flanges
• new coolant, coolant bled
• new oil / filter (I went from synthetic 20W-50 to mostly conventional 20W-50 and some ~10W~40 to top it off)
• new remanufactured injectors (I broke one of the injector pintles off while replacing injector O-rings
• balance shaft housings re-sealed
• nearly every vacuum line replaced (the one that comes off the top of the AOS had huge cracks)
• air oil separator O-rings replaced
• electrical connectors sprayed with contact cleaner
• dipstick tube resealed

The car now starts incredibly quickly, cold or hot, and idles great.

If the car has been running for more than about 2-3 minutes it runs great.

If the car is above 3,000 RPM it runs great.

But by golly, for the first 2-3 minutes after starting, when it is running faster than idle but less than 3,000 RPM it hardly runs. It hardly has the power to cruise at 20 mph in this state, and if you really play with the throttle it occasionally has a mini backfire. The sound from inside the car is similar to the pop when you have a bad CV joint. I have verified the timing marks and they look good. If I let the car warm up, then shut it off for, say, 20 minutes to where the engine is still fairly warm it will still run very poorly at first.

The attached video is after the car has run for ~1 minute. Right at first start it runs worse. There are two tiny backfires, one at ~8 seconds and one right at the end. Sometimes they are a bit bigger than that! A few minutes later and the engine was running well. This issue has been consistent for a couple weeks.

I would love some insight if anyone has experienced this type of thing before!

Thank you.