The aircraft has Garmin equipment and an L-3 Lynx, but I don't recall seeing this on the installation manual- and- it looks like it wants to be bulkhead mounted... I suspect it's bluetooth or wi-fi but for what? Tried to follow the coax but it vanished into a thick bundle... thanks in advance.
This truck is a really good fit for my driving missions. Interior is badly impacted by a mouse infestation and there's body damage. Been saving up to buy a new truck, but the new access cab Tacos don't have a manual transmission option. And they're expensive, but I could swing it. HOWEVER. The design of the 2010 is really cool. It hits a low key sculptural quality, well proportioned, generally good human factors... and the new designs are just way too "transformers"- over the top design features that don't really fuse and the interior is terrible. I like the gen 2 trucks OK, but finding the manual 2015 4x4 that looks like the best option is difficult. So- I think I just want to fix this truck. Any suggestions on the best way to pull the entire interior, replace it with new? How hard is it to source everything? Are there good aftermarket solutions for replacing the back "seats"? The rest of the mechanical and body work is chopping wood, but the interior is a little intimidating. I don't want to screw up the airbags, for example...
Thanks in advance
First question- is there a specification for this process? I'm making it up as I go: a little bit of drain cleaner in a little bit of water... exotherm! Then swab the solution on to the anodized part and scrubbed it around. This worked nicely, and I was getting the same point to point resistance on the surface as an untreated piece of aluminum, about .2 ohm with a multimeter.
I learned that get the masking attached to the surface is important! The black marks are locations where the NaOH didn't get neutralized and started intergranular corrosion.
Second question- the base material is as I recall a 7050 or 7075 alloy. The anodize brings the grain into nice definition, the NaOH starts what looks like intergranular etching.
-The etching is a chemical removal process- is it removing the alloy elements or the metal matrix (which I assume is unalloyed aluminum)?
My objective is to continue with this until I have a controlled predictable process so I can remove anodize where I need local conductivity without compromizing the structural alloy.
Thanks in advance!
My tile roof is disintegrating and the underlayment looks like burned potato chips. El Nino is coming and the roofing bids are really high- separate problem, but one that's driving met to ask this question. The roof is unusual and I need to get a drawing done with enough details that define the installation well enough so there's no gray areas and it gets done right- plus this will nail the bids down... and that's going to take time. Meanwhile I want to strip the existing roof off, and put down a waterproof barrier that can last a year. Ideally, that barrier would be the metal roof underlayment. Backup is - just tarpaper. Here's the question- assume we get a high quality metal roof underlayment. Could it be exposed for a year and still be good for the new roof? Is something like Zip system good for this?
There's a small company near me (central CA) that lost their lead CNC guy. They're looking for someone who can do the programming and run the machines. The job seemed more like running your own shop inside a company as much as anything else. r/machinists a good place to ask around?
