u/N1ghtWolf213

I got a 2001 Johnson 150 2 stroke with the optical sensor (J150PLSIG) that stalls under load. Originally thought it was a failed oil pump so we deleted it, no fix. New optical sensor and power pack and spark plugs. Carbs adjusted. No check engine, no heat alarms, no oil alarms. Flywheel looks fine.

Stalls roughly 2500-3k when in the water. I can get it a lot higher on boat muffs. Stall meaning it completely let's up and dies. Also seems to randomly die at idle. Reverse completely cuts out as well no matter the rev range.

Results on compression test are not ideal but I don't think it's what the problem is.

102 on #6

110 #4

111 #2

99-98 #5

112.5 #3

115 #1

Really lost on this, losing all hope.

Recently got my tanks in the ground, mound laterals are being installed.

Stuck on a few things I want to learn more about before committing.

First, installing the 2 inch supply line to the mound, I've been told to stick a 4 inch pvc sleeve around the first 10 feet from the tank. Want to know how common this is and how everyone is doing it, think the guy recommended I pack the ends with a tar or something, didn't specify how the connections were done. I think this was something to do with ground settling. I will have to ask again how he does it.

Second, between the main tank and pump tank there is 26 feet of gravity pipe under a field access road. its only about 18 inches down and our Minnesota January averages 10f (-2c). Not ideal at all but literally nothing can be done with water table and nowhere else I can put the road. I need to know what people have done to cross driveways and such with such limiting soil conditions. I am thinking right now I should run this stretch in the insulseal insulated pipe slipped through a 10 inch culvert. field access doesn't normally get used during the winter, at least for anything big.

Going to be installing a few septic tanks in a less than ideal water table and looking for tips.

We will be dropping 3 tanks, a 1500, 1000, and 800g sometime this summer. The 1500 gets its own excavated hole and is in the lesser of the problematic areas, down the line sits the 1000 and 800 in one hole and that will get wet.

In 4 foot test holes at the lowest point I will get 12 inches of water in a matter of minutes and progresses through the night.

I've been told its generally a great idea to have a 20ton ex to hold them down while its backfilled but I'd love it if I can save a couple grand with some extra precautions and avoid that.

Game plan right now is have a 2 inch trash pump ready and a side pocket excavated out to set the pump in. I have a 7ton ctl and 2.5ton mini ex on hand. another 4.5 ton skid on standby.

Right now I'm considering buying some 220 gallon water totes and filling them up and dumping them into the tanks once their in.

Also considering strapping the tanks but unfamiliar with the options. I know excavating for concrete anchors might make it difficult for the tank company to get close enough to drop them. Not sure if screw in anchors are an option, or how massive of a screw you would need.

For ordering the tanks themselves, they offer an epoxy coating. I don't see why I shouldn't get the option but maybe others have opinions on that.

Recently got an 18ft pro-v lund for Minnesota lakes. Never had a boat this big so still learning.

Took it out the other day for the first time and ended up dragging the motor at a shallow launch while trying to get it to the main body of water. nicked the prop.

Was curious what method I should follow to get out onto the water? I have a 60lb 24v older minnkota on the bow I haven't got working yet. I also seen a 4hp Nissan tiller for sale I almost want to pick up and use as a kicker to launch. Maybe I'm not thinking clearly but I almost feel like it would be easier to navigate using a transom mount when I'm in tight corridors with little room for error?