

Mariner 25hp - Is this the mixture screw?
Mariner/Mercury 25hp 1988.
Is this the mixture screw? And what are the basic setting on this? 1,5 turns out?


Mariner/Mercury 25hp 1988.
Is this the mixture screw? And what are the basic setting on this? 1,5 turns out?
1960 evinrude 18hp. Replaced entire ignition system and I have one cylinder with weak/no spark. If I swap the coils the other cylinder will fire so it doesn't seem to be an issue with points/condenser or timing. I tested the resistance of the coils and the secondary resistance on the "good" coil measured 4500 ohms and the "bad" coil measure 3500 ohms. Does the difference in resistance indicate a bad coil or am I missing something else?
Hi, the engine sputters a lot at full throttle. It’s probably mounted too high. What do you think?
When I trim the Mercury a little higher using the rod that controls the trim angle, the boat starts to bounce during high acceleration.
60ELPTEFI. Need help before the big hammer comes out.
I’ve got every fastener out except the socket head and water tube, but the bolt head is going to strip if I keep cranking and this plate won’t budge. Does that need to come out, am I missing something, or time to beat the piss out of it?
Hello! I was hoping to pick your guys’ brain on an issue with getting this motor started. This is a 1972 Evinrude 9.5 HP 2 stroke(model 9222M). I have checked compression and it’s good, spark tester showed spark on both cylinders but the plugs do look a bit fouled.
I’ve cleaned the carburetor and rebuilt with new float and float needle. All passages were cleaned as well as I could using carb cleaner through a spray can. This included drilling out, cleaning behind, and replacing Welch plugs and removing idle mixture screw to clean slow speed circuit.
The motor has started for a second or two when gas was poured directly into the carburetor throat, but it just will not start under normal conditions. I know fuel is in the carb bowl as I have pulled it several times and every time I’ve split the carb fuel has poured out.
Do you think it makes sense to replace spark plugs or do you think I have failed to clean a passage? I’m at wits end with this motor and I’d love to get out with it in the next week or two while I’m off work. Thank you for any help you can give!
Edit: 2-Stoke! Not 4, my apologies
New to us boat, when we bought it 4 months ago it was finicky to start but it would start, hadn’t been run in about 2 years. First thing we did was replace the spark plugs, the wires, and the CDI, cleaned the carbs and the fuel lines, and the choke pump (was cracked). The last time we got it successfully, on the way from the launch it was only running 8mph at WOT opposed to the previous 24mph, on the way back to the launch it was bogging down at half throttle, when we got home I noticed the adjustment for the carb flaps was lose, so we messed with that and tightened it, probably needs to be adjusted more, last weekend we were able to get it to start with the carb as it sits now, but the next day it wouldn’t start. The idle also needs to be adjusted but we haven’t been able to get it to start reliably enough to take it to the lake and properly adjust it.
It has spark, compression, and fuel (50:1 mixed gas), the battery is at full charge. This weekend we replaced the spark plugs and got new fuel in the tank, the video is after the plug change. The plug pictured in comments is a previous one we’ve been running, not a new one from the change today.
Hello this is a 1991 50hp mariner 2 stroke. It has sat for 15 years. I have been fiddling with it for a little bit now and finally got it to a point of running/idling under load but when not in gear it likes to pop or bang as tou can see and when I give it throttle it just pops a bunch and dies out. Any help is appreciated I am new to boats.
Threw brand new plug, carb, fuel hoses and filter on the old tohatsu 2 stroke 5hp. She was bogging and dying with any load over idle on the lake. Seems to be much happier now. If only it wasnt 100 degrees out we’d be out on a water test in the lakes. Last video was about as much as i could get out of her part throttle before replacing everything. It would bog and stall even at that speed.
In a healthy engine, Is there any way for fuel to get into the crankcase oil besides passing through the 6 injectors? My engine appears to be "making oil" even when just turning the key into the "on" position without even cranking OR running the engine. Leading me to believe one of my electric fuel pumps may be involved in the situation? Thanks for any insight you can give me on this.
What I have already done:
New thermostats and thermostat housings
Cleaned fuel injectors and replaced all rubber o-rings
Replaced 2 fuel filters
Replaced Oil filter - twice now
Put in 6 new spark plugs
Checked compression (All good all 150)
Completely drained oil multiple times and replaced - getting expensive.
When I did run engine briefly, it purred like a kitten... And yet problem continues...
My outboard will not run longer than 5seconds, though I ran it for 10min on muffs and then a few minutes down the river to my Marina. Once I got to the Marina, this issue started, and it’s never idled for more than 5sec. New impeller and oil/filter and fuel filters this year.
Tried new gas, new tank, new line and connectors. Pulled out the inline filter and confirmed the fuel is getting at least past there. I’m at a loss for what it could be past this - anything else to check before giving it to the service dept?
I’ve got this 1993 mercury 75 hp with a ton of swivel play. I want to ride this out and eventually get a new set up. I’ve heard ppl say I could weld it or shim it but I have no idea how to or where to. Has anyone tried to temp fix these? Any ideas on how to make less play.
What would be causing the primer not to work? It has all new parts and is full of fuel. It just pumps are back into the bowl. All passages are clean, I’ve blown carb cleaner through all of them.
1999 Mercury 25hp 2 stroke. Thanks!
I’m not sure if water is supposed to come out of the hole in the center. I saw water coming out and took off the cover to see it coming from a hole there. Any insight on as to this should be happening
This started after I rented the boat to a Airbnb guest. There’s a chance they used the wrong mixture of gas and oil. I took it to my mechanic. He had someone take the engine apart and replaced a sprocket for $1,900, possibly the front sprocket. The clunking didn’t go away, but it did change sound slightly. The engine has the same power, it can go for 15 minutes no problem. The sound doesn’t happen in reverse which makes me believe that it’s fixable. Please help me figure this out!!! I appreciate it.
So I bought my first boat it’s old and it was cheap and I’m trying to get it ready for the water but I’m having trouble with reverse latch. To my understanding the latch should only engage when the boat is in reverse with the outboard fully lowered but the components of the latch were all moving rather difficultly so after disassembling it and removing the spring(#8) in the photo I finally got the lock collar(#11) to lower as it was stuck in the up position and the rod that should be pushing it when the boat is put into reverse would just go right underneath it resulting in the reverse latch never engaging in any throttle position even with the outboard fully lowered but now the reverse latch is engaging automatically when the outboard is lowered and it releases automatically when I raise it again but my concern is if I were to hit something in the water going forward with the latch engaged it would cause catastrophic damage as the outboard would not be able to move freely.
I’ve spent a lot of my time doing research and watching videos and can’t seem to find any solutions and I don’t know where to go from here, hopefully someone here can give me some advice.
Sorry for the long post and thank you for reading
Would love some advice if anyone can help. If I prime it I get it to run well for 15-20 seconds then it does this and starts to sputter. I replaced the vst filter and gaskets today and they looked fine, tightened it properly and no visible fuel leaks in the motor area, nothing smells like gas. Fuel to the primer ball seems fine, though the new primer ball wouldnt fill up initially when connected to both the outboard and fuel source after 50 pumps, until I disconnected past the check valve until it filled up then attached to the motor fuel lines. I may try to bleed the vst and check for air. Symptoms started last season - primer ball would go soft after the boat would be off for a bit, would hand prime and run fine. Recently it got worse, rough idle (like this but ran) but would run fine in gear. Last week I was maxing out at 3700rpm. I figured im at 480hrs on an 04’ f150xrc I should check the filters. They ended up looking fine. I put it all back together and now its even worse, does this in gear too. There was some residue on the old vst gasket but thats about it. I sprayed soapy water and saw no bubbles near the manifold fuel lines. I replaced my spark plugs yesterday too. Hope anyone has an idea.
suzuki df25atl5 bogs down, dies and beeps 3 times. Usually at full throttle. Brand new in 2022. Sometime it just does it once a day. Sometimes it does it and has a hard time starting again and keeping idle. Only thing I have done is inspect the line from tank to motor, bulb and the shitty quick connect that comes with the tank. What should I be checking?