r/Outboards

1999 Yamaha 15hp 4 stroke. Just bought the boat, makes a clicking sound only when above 3/4 throttle and at high speeds. Any ideas what it could be?

Anybody have experience converting a Mercury 25hp short shaft to long shaft, and if so is this a good option?

Alarm stops when I disconnect the 12V starter battery

What could cause that knocking noise?

2004 Honda BF150 acts like it is a 75HP motor. It is mounted to a 19 ft Lund Tyee. It will get on plane eventually, but takes far longer than it should and if it has 4 or more people in the boat and they are not spread out to the front, it will not plane out. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump as well as the high pressure fuel filter. The injectors are good. It has new plugs and new gas. There are no DTCs. Other than low power, it runs fine. Idles great, when it does get on plane, it will go 38MPH or so. Vtec engauges at 4500 rpm. MAP sensor and Throttle position sensor look good. I have a Honda code reader and checked rpm’s versus spark advance and that seems a little funny, but can’t find anything online to say it’s wrong. I have many more videos of various sensors if anyone has any suggestions.

So I’ve done carb clean, compression test(all good), have good spark, new impeller(not like that matters right now), and the engine just won’t turn over. I can’t really test idle or anything else if I can’t even get a good turn over. Carb looked great, float sat well, jets were all cleared, still nothing, fuels getting to the fuel pump, at a stand still with this. Anything to help me would be 1000% appreciated. Also I did disconnect the kill button/switch and that didn’t change anything either.

Looking for some help with an older Mercury 18XD 18hp outboard, serial 6456080.

I recently rebuilt the carburetor/replaced the float and had to disconnect the plastic linkage/primer mechanism and rod. I've got everything back together, but I'm not convinced the linkage is operating correctly. The two plastic toothed sections are meshed as far as I can get them. When I operate the choke/primer knob, there is basically no movement at the carb butterfly.

However, if I manually pull the metal rod connected to the plastic toothed mechanism toward me by only about 1–2 mm, the butterfly opens. So the butterfly and rod themselves move freely; the control just doesn't seem to be transferring enough movement to the rod. With the control pushed fully IN, the butterfly is closed. Pulling the control OUT doesn't noticeably change the butterfly position.

I've compared the new linkage position with photos I took before disassembly. On the original/broken plastic mechanism, the toothed sections appeared to mesh more deeply with essentially no gap. With the replacement part, I've got them engaged as far as they'll physically go but there is still a gap.

The engine currently won't start. It pulls over normally and the fuel bulb is primed. I've tried full and partial choke/primer with no luck. Before I start changing any adjustments, does anyone familiar with the 18XD primer/fast-idle linkage know:

-Is the butterfly supposed to move substantially when the primer/choke knob is pulled?

-Does this plastic toothed linkage look correctly indexed?

-Is there an adjustment for that ~1–2 mm of lost movement in the rod?

-Is there a specific setup/indexing procedure for the primer actuator/fast-idle linkage after removing the carb?

I don't want to start messing with the throttle/shift adjustment rods or stop screws without knowing what they're actually adjusting.

Thanks a lot!!

Ok so I got this old evinrude 6 horse that came on a small boat I bought earlier this summer. The motor starts within like 3 pulls every single time - but only when COLD. After cruising around for 20-30 mins and getting it up to running temp, if you shut it down, it won't start again until you let it cool for a good 30 mins. I suspected its flooding for some reason, and my neighbor who has some (SOME - not an expert) small engine experience confirmed this. Then he brought his buddy over who is supposed to be the small engine guru from his workplace (he works for the city - guy repairs lawn mowers etc all day every day - guessing he knows his shit) and he said the same. Seems to flood for some reason. I asked him what to do about it and his answer wasn't really what I was hoping for. He basically said, it's a very old motor, you're semi lucky it runs at all, and sometimes doing a carb rebuild on a motor this old will be the end of the motor - better to just run it frequently, plan to sit for 30 mins or so after each shut down, and whatever you do avoid ethanol at all costs.

So we take it out from time to time, and it will always start right up, no issues, every god damn time...until its hot. Then you can pull that starter till the cows come home and it does jack shit. But if you can be patient (I am not a patient man) it will eventually start again once it cools, AND you leave it long enough for the fuel to evaporate out of the carb (I THINK thats why??). But sometimes you just dont have 30 mins to wait. Sometimes it's getting dark and you need to get off the water pronto because you're in a 12 ft boat with no running lights. What can I do? Is the guru correct? Just leave it and plan a 30 min turn around every time I shut it down, or can it be improved somehow?

So far the only thing Ive done to it is clean the spark plugs with a wire brush and I pulled the slow speed adjustment needle (or whatever that thing is called - it adjusts the fuel mixture supposedly) and sprayed a few healthy doses of carb cleaner through it. But if you'll just take a look the the photos you can see that the previous owner, or at least SOME previous owner really did some upkeep on this thing. All the fuel lines are new, spark plugs are newish, all the paint and exposed parts under the engine cowl look like...brand new. Any ideas are appreciated. If you need any more info on it please let me know, I could throw a bucket under her and take a video of it running if need be, whatever. Just lmk, and thanks in advance for what I'm already positive will be several brilliant ideas.

ETA: Ive just been looking around at other forums about outboards etc and someone, somewhere, mentions that their fuel line bulb doesn't seem to ever get all the way hard, and that turned out to be a problem with the carb float. I have the same symptom - bulb doesn't get hard - it does get harder than it was after a few pumps, but no amount of pumping will get it to "rock hard". What do we think? carb float?

Where can I get a good puller with 3 bolts that works with a 2005 90hp efi powerhead? I have a wheel puller, but it pulls from the outside and I don’t want to damage the teeth.

Hello! i have a 1968 johnson 6hp cd-25c that the handle snapped on me. I need to get a replacement but cant find anything newer! Anyone else have any luck finding parts for this?