A friend of mine suggests I should use valvoline vr-1 10w40 oil in my NA, but as the car isn’t boosted and is stock performance wise should I use something else? Or would it be okay if I used vr-1?
Back to Reddit for help smh, for a while now a lot of the electronics in my Z have been throttling and in the case of my sound system just shutting off completely. And as the problem is affecting essentially the whole car I believe the problem lies in the charging system as the alternator is pretty dirty and caked in typical engine bay soot and other road dust. However one major thing I notice is that oil is constantly dripping from the bottom of the alternator bracket, I'm almost 100% sure its not engine oil as the level has stayed consistent, but I am unsure of the power steering pump. Anyone ever had a similar leak? Any feedback is appreciated as usual.
Been listening to the Crest snippet so much and I just love Gore as an album so I wanted to get this question off my mind, do you guys think the opening chord in Prayers / Triangles could be some sort of lead in from the as of yet undiscovered second half of Crest? Much like Pittura Infamante into Xenon. Just imagining what the full version could’ve sounded like, if that full Crest track ever drops I’m making sure I find a way to listen TT.
Check comments for additional video, also I now have metal shavings in the timing cover near the CAS. Upgraded the injectors, replaced wiring and all did a 120K service. Is my engine done? Should I take it for a test drive?
Edit: a section of timing belt is seemingly getting shaved on the side of the belt as in the metal on the inside of the belt is starting to show.
Back to Reddit again, does anyone know what the stock wiring harness gauge is or at least a range since the size varies? Some of the wiring and especially the injectors seem to have no joke like 30-34 AWG wire maybe even smaller, which has made crimping on new pigtails especially difficult and making me consider if I should just re run the wire entirely.
I graduated high school in May of this year, I've had a job since I was 16 however I've worked in food the whole time. For a while I thought I was making decent money and for a highschooler with little to no expenses at around $2,000 / month (~$1,000 biweekly). However I have now hit adulthood, and my situation as it stands to sum it up is I live with my elderly aunt (80+ y/o) and she's very much pushing me to move out, on top of paying her some money to keep the house up and running I pay a lot of money for car insurance monthly. At my current job I make the same around $2k per month and I'm moving into a managing position but only getting about a $1.25 per hour raise as of now. I just want to know how you guys do it? $24k annually obviously is better than what some have out there and I am ever grateful for the position I have got myself into now however I could definitely improve, I am just so uneducated on how I can actually move up in life and get myself even to $40k annually which could get me to liveable wages. Any advice or criticisms would be greatly appreciated, and if you read this far at least thanks for giving it a read lol.
I’m in the process of upgrading to late style injectors however I’ve noticed that when I snipped the connector pigtails off, the wires were both two different gauges, while the new pigtails have the same gauge on both sides. Is it okay to just crimp them on despite the size difference? Also my cylinder one injector was held on by this super jank solder connection with no pigtail and I can see the wires on that connection are ALSO different from the other injectors that do have pigtails.
TLDR: Diff wire gauges from injector harness to pigtail, can I crimp? How can I tell if someone modified the harness previously?
Doing a 120k and am at the point where I need to set all gears to tdc before putting the belt back on, however the cam gears under pressure (left in the photo) are obviously snappy and are pretty hard to set to TDC without them snapping one way or the other. Anyone have tips as to how to set them?
Was taking off the upper to lower plenum gasket and dropped a small piece of the gasket down into the valves, however after using a borescope I can’t find it in the valves and as they are slightly open I think it may have fell into the cylinder itself. Do I seriously have to start picking it apart until I find that piece of gasket or will it be okay to run.
As title says, I daily drive my Z but from the looks of my EGR it is super rusted, and may be more of a pain to fix up or try to repair than it would to just get rid of it entirely. I’m in AZ, and I’m set for the next 2 years but I will eventually need to pass emissions again so would I still be able to get past that? Mine is a JDM so it has the special testing and it’s 93 so no OBD2z
As title says I stripped the top and bottom hex bolts on the upper water pipe. I’ve tried an extractor, didn’t work, tried an extractor with screw grab, didn’t work. What do I even do at this point?
TLDR: How do you stay consistent playing games and not quit within a month or so?
I feel like as I’ve grown a little older from being a teenager (approaching my early 20s). I feel like I’ve been having even harder of a time staying consistent with video games, I know it’s not a job and it’s a hobby but especially recently I really miss the drive I used to have for playing video games. Like sometimes I feel like I know that I could learn a game if I gave it that true effort but sometimes I just get on for five minutes to immediately get back off the game. For example I recently picked up Path of Exile 2, getting deeper into end game but I cannot for the life of me find the will to play the game in my free time at night. I’ve also been wanting to pick up Workers and Resources, definitely quite a different game, but it requires so much effort and time that it just puts me off immediately you know? Anyone who’s ever experienced this feeling how do you deal with it? What drew you back into gaming and gave you that drive again?
I’m honestly having some buyers regret with my Z32. I’ve had it like 3 months and it still runs decently (bad knock sensor) and like I’m willing to do repairs and everything, I definitely have the willpower to do these things and learn but I’m just so scared about discontinued parts. What happens if I encounter an issue that can only be fixed by discontinued parts? Has anyone ever ran into that situation and what did you do if you have?
TLDR: Installed new starter, not sure if some metal shavings that came out are from the starter motor or the bell housing. Hoping I didn't strip the threads out of bell housing.
I had recently just replaced my starter motor as the OEM one was going out. Anyway I got the original off no problem but upon reinstalling the lower bolt that holds the starter to the bell housing that at around 30 NM of torque it really began to thread a lot easier without tightening back up (down to about 15 NM of torque) and I also started to see little metallic shavings coming off the threads at which point I stopped threading it in. I've driven on it for about 5 or so days now and haven't noticed any starting issues however now I have a slight audible rattle in first gear at about 1200 RPM and feel like I can sometimes hear metal rattling over bumps and such. I tried to wiggle the starter and see if it was loose but it seems to be just as tight as it was when I installed it. So my question is could those shavings possibly have just been the starter motor getting threaded by the bolt, and then once the bolt actually began to thread the bell housing those shavings from the motor simply fell came out the other side of the bolt? I just want to make sure I didn't just wreck the starter bolt threads on the actual transmission itself, hopefully just some metal from the starter.
As title says I need to replace my knock sensor and in order to do that I obviously gotta pull the upper intake and plenum off to reach it so what should I do while its off? And in addition to that I'm assuming I'll need to replace gaskets and the balance tube o-rings(?), any advice would be greatly appreciated yall.
As of recent I’ve encountered a problem that at first was intermittent and would come and go but as it appears the issue no longer goes away. The cars acceleration is pretty rough and is not as responsive as it used to be and In 5th gear around 100 kmph the car reallyyyy does not like to accelerate anymore. As I can tell the idling has also become noticeably rougher and sounds like a rotary with the rhythmic hum lol. If anyone knows what could cause this kind of behavior it’d be greatly appreciated, I just want my responsive Z back :’).
As title states I'm trying to replace my negative battery cable since the clamp that holds on to the negative post is weak and is sometimes causing issues like no cranks and requires me to go and wiggle my battery around so I figured I might as well try and replace it. Since my '93 Z32 is JDM the battery is on the opposing side however the ground strap setup remains the same, but since I want to replace it could I just cut the wire to before the ground attachment, crimp a new section of whatever gauge wire that extends to the terminal, then strip the section that goes in the ground strap and place it within, then continue the cable to the post like normal? Trying to add some marine style terminals since I've heard they're good and also think they look clean. Also if anyone knows what gauge is the wire used for the negative cable?
TLDR: How do I deal with the ground attachment from negative cable, and what gauge is negative terminal wire?