r/300zx

Just picked up this 1990 z32 with 88k miles, transmission rebuild and timing belt were done a couple years ago, the mechanic who did the work confirmed. Should I be good to just do new fuel injectors, fuel pump, and new spark plugs? I’m also getting all new hoses for the car, weather stripping for the t tops and new bushings for the suspension. I do not want to engine swap I just was a clean all original N/A Z32 for my wife to take to car shows that’s as reliable as a 36 year old car can be

Shooting for the stars with this one.

VG build will consist of: all deletes possible, Carrillo 87.5 pistons, eagle rods, Tomei procams, valve springs & solid lifters, Ferrea valves and valve guides, ams manifolds, polar engineering top feed fuel rail w/ ID 1050cc injectors, king bearings, ARP hardware, and a set of GTX2876’s from CZP. Will be running Nistune for the foreseeable future but eventually plan to get a Haltech plug-in. Still in the market for all of the other stuff that probably popped into your guys’ head. Intake, exhaust, suspension, etc. but for now I need to dial back my spending and just get this motor put together. I’m aware of the many bottlenecks I’ll be encountering short term, but the long term plan is to push this thing to the absolute limits. I have a plan trust me 😆

I was having a problem with an injector leaking fuel into the cylinder to a point where it hydrolocked it ran fine with that one cylinder open but now that everything is installed after the fix it doesn’t start at all all I pulled off was the plenum and it has new spark plugs i checked spark it has it and when cranking for a long time I smell fuel why won’t it start

picked up my first z, only paid $4000 and i feel like it was an absolute steal. i love it but the only thing that i dont like is how hard it is to find any parts for this year. body has about 230k, but engine only has roughly 3,000 miles, has a freshly rebuilt transmission, all brand new suspension components/bushings. only cons are the paint has a bunch of chips & it needs an a/c compressor. which seems to be the most expensive part of the ac system of course

How bad is the rust on the rails?

1988 turbo, 8500$ @80,000 miles. Hey guys thanks in advance for any advice that you give I'm a huge fan of the z31 300ZX and looking to possibly get into the community as my first car. I'm majoring in mechanical engineering with a minor in computer science and I've been working at a civil engineering internship. I currently have the luxury of living at home with my parents and very little payments for myself after having worked on and driven my family's 2000 Ford ranger for the last four to five years I'm looking to finally get my own car something that I can tinker with and work on and make modifications too in the future. I plan on doing almost all the work on this vehicle myself. I've done several oil changes several breaks and rotor replacements on many different vehicles I've replaced the belt on a 2016 tundra and water pump, and fix electronics for fun on my free time I feel like I'd be a good candidate for having a 300ZX as my first car considering I'll still have access to a 2000 Ford ranger that my parents maintain.

What are some of the first things you would recommend I fix on the 300zxz31 I do plan on replacing the belt regardless of when it was last done on this car and I'd like to change out the radiator to a triple thick finned aluminum radiator to help the engine run cooler most of my modifications will be to make the vehicle more reliable instead of giving it more power. Any suggestions on parts or items I should look out for any tips and tricks from current and previous z31 owners that I should know about? I know t-top gaskets can be pretty bad but I'm starting to see them available online for like 250 bucks new if I understand correctly?

🎞️ Ultramax 400
📸 Olympus OM-1

Picked up this 1990 2 seater na yesterday
110k miles with the 5 speed transmission
Closest thing to a barn find I will ever get in my life and its been sitting in a garage for the past 15 years
The paint and all the door seals, hoses, and wires are in fantastic condition and the interior is almost mint if it gets a little steam clean on the seats
Of course I’m gonna do and oil/filter change, drain the gas, check the tank for rust, and pour a little oil in the cylinders to make sure everything is all lubed up before first start
Once i get it running I’ll do the 120k mile service

This car is beautiful and I’m so excited to get it back on the road so is there any recommendations y’all have that I should double check before first start

Hi all, trying to cut out all the rust and get my z prepped for paint, does anyone have a right side a pillar? I think its best that i weld in a new section with how bad it is especially with the previous owner just silicon bandaging over it...

It's a 90 twin turbo with only 89k miles. The trans is stuck in 2nd. So time to manual swap it. Can anyone give me advice before I dive into this. I currently know a 21 q50 3.0tt and just finished installing new turbos. But I don't know to much about vg30's and 300zx. Any help I'll take thanks

Also it has a tune on it I believe it has apexi on the dash board which no clue how to use that. But it sounds like the boost is too high. There's a knob under the hood but when I turn it counterclockwise nothing changes. The previous owner said don't mess with it. He said it's putting out 17psi....

Whenever I add a little or large amount of throttle at around 1,500rpm to 2,500rpm on gears 3-5 I get this loud clunk followed by a rattle noise from the transmission which fades away at around 3,000rpm. When feeling and pressing against the shifter, I can feel it move back and forth as it clunks which makes me think there is some sort of thrust issue which is transferred through the shift forks into the shifter.

I’m not finding any odd looking wear or any loose bearings especially in comparison to an R32 GTR gear set.

At this point I’m not sure what else to look at and I’m considering swapping the GTR gear set into the Z32 housing (transfer 5th/reverse output shaft and rear shift fork shaft)

Are there any checks I can do to find out why this is happening?

Here’s a video exaggerating the clunk sound: https://youtube.com/shorts/CTm2cuVhni4?si=4wMYfOAdt2B970iT

1. I think is part of the aiv/ emissions system

2. Is a system to make sure the cabin has fresh air

A friend of mine suggests I should use valvoline vr-1 10w40 oil in my NA, but as the car isn’t boosted and is stock performance wise should I use something else? Or would it be okay if I used vr-1?

Hello all! Anyone have a site/source to purchase the pipes that curve into the heater core hoses without the extra barbs? We did all the plenum coolant line deletes and as such the barbs are not needed. Thank you in advance!

JC

Edit: Content info, Typos

It’s been a few years now and as lots of people are starting to discover even the E5 fuel is starting to perish pre 2014 cars, Matt Armstrong highlighted this on his channel with the Veyron/s and now lots of people are also having similar problems -

Fuel lines, injector seals, in-tank lines, low pressure, high pressure..

And because these cars are driven less and less frequently it takes a while (a hot decade) to notice this is happening.

For people that have replaced their oem blown out bushings with poly ones, how did you get the solid inner bushing in? The diameter of the inner poly bushing seems smaller than the diameter of the solid bushing. I tried every combination of install order, freezing, heating, teflon tape, and hitting it in with a rubber mallet. I’ve seen people just push these in so I know it’s possible. Just a little confused