u/dakman96

Used a DA tool to do a one step polish on the whole car (other than the bumpers, they're being replaced this week). Cannot believe the shine it was able to bring back.

My side view mirrors are terribly faded, they don't look anything like the rest of the car. Anyone know of an easy way to remove it so I can get it painted? I checked the FSM but unless I'm missing it it just kinda breaks down the assembly. Curious what the steps are to remove it and if I can avoid removing the whole door card. I found a video of someone undoing the screws and just sort of prying the part near the mirror back to unplug it.

I work on cars often but usually it's mechanical or interior detailing.

I plan on doing a paint correction on my 1991 Nissan 300zx and given the paints 35 years old, I'm a bit nervous. I've watched countless videos and read on it so I think I'm mostly well equipped but want to ask for any advice.

I have a Bauer 7.5amp 6" DA orbital tool, meguiar's compound, polish, and wax. I got 6" pads appropriate for each step.

Also going to deep clean and clay bar the car beforehand. Since it's so old, I expect it might not be 100% perfectly decontaminated so how big a risk is that?

My main concern is dragging or burning the paint

Just recently ordered my 99 JSPEC bumper and it gets here tomorrow. I started calling around shops to get quotes on paint matching and got wildly different answers across the board. I was quoted $300, $500, and $1100 from 3 different shops. Low and medium option said they can't get it perfectly matched. High option said the same thing but recommended the paint correction first so they can get it close.

1. Is our paint one stage or two stage? One shop said it's likely one stage and I'm finding conflicting info online, I believe it's two stage?

2. One shop recommended test fitting the bumper before painting since it's FRP and could have fitment issues. Anyone run into that? I bought it from Z1. Would like to avoid installing it just to uninstall it so it can be painted.

3. I know it's very difficult if not impossible to paint match 35 year old faded paint, but I think my paint is in DECENT shape. Both bumpers and side views are fading but the rest of the car looks okay at least. Can it be matched?

4. Would a paint correction service be recommended before have it matched? How difficult is it to maintain once it's been cut and polished, etc.

I know some of yall have been through this so curious what you did. Currently not too interested in painting the whole car or wrapping it because $$$

Plan on ordering the JSPEC front bumper for my 91 NA 2+2. I'm ordering it with the intercooler ducts (NA-TT build in progress), corner lights, and grille.

Any clips or hardware I should also buy in case the original ones are dry and brittle? Technically everything used to install this bumper is re-using the existing USDM spec bolts/clips right?

Thanks and appreciate any tips

Posted yesterday trying to figure out why so much water was getting into my passenger side footwell. Today I pulled the kick panel and poured water down each side t top. The drivers side I saw exit fine out of the fender. On the passenger side nothing came out at all.

When I pulled the kick panel I saw a mess. Water was dripping from above where I circled on red (picture with smaller circle and lots of connectors). It was then pooling where the larger circle is drawn and draining into that large hole. Does that at least lead outside the car?

I tried finding the drain tube and elbow mentioned in the previous thread and I don't see it anywhere. Where is it supposed to be and connect to? Anywhere to find replacements, CZP shows it as discontinued.

Lastly I'm really worried about those electrical connectors. They have mud and water all over them.

Any help in finding where the drain tube is supposed to go or where to get a replacement would be much appreciated.

I've owned my 91 Z32 for about 2 years now. I went to replace something near the ECU and noticed it was actively wet down there. We've gotten a lot of rain lately so it's somehow leaking to the floorboard.

What scares me is how rusted this looks. Not to mention critical components having moisture all over them. I can still see some paint color through the rust and it's not flaking away but this is freaking me out. Any advice on what to do? And how to find leaks?

I'm a car enthusiast and also a software engineer. I've been working on this app for a while now and finally got it released on iOS and Android. It's called Modfest and it's designed to help car enthusiasts track their car parts, builds, photos, and optionally share them with others.

I built it because my own project car build was scattered across a parts spreadsheet, a notes app, and random pictures in folders. Most car people I know do some version of this too, so I made an app that I'd personally want to use myself.

What it does:

• Garage for your cars, each with its own photo gallery, linked parts and projects, cost tracking.
• Parts inventory that tracks what you paid, what car it's for, whether you already installed it or not, and where you got it from. This also works as a wishlist so you don't have to maintain multiple wishlists for multiple sites.
• Project plans with step by step instructions, photos per step, a running cost total.
• An optional social feed where you can publish a build or car, follow others, and search for similar cars to get inspiration from their builds.

Some things that were important to me when making this app:

• Unlike a lot of other similar apps, this works fully offline and no account is required. Your data stays on your device unless you decide to use cloud backup.
• Sign in with Apple if you do want to use cloud backup and have it sync across multiple devices.
• The free tier is actually usable. Premium adds cloud backup, more photos in a post, unlimited cars in your garage, but core tracking is fully free.

App Store: https://apps.apple.com/app/id6770381572

This is my first time fully shipping an app and I'm very excited to be at this point now. I'm happy to answer any and all questions about the app, shipping process, or even just talk cars :)

I'm slowly accumulating parts to convert my NA Z32 to a NA-TT. I know it's often recommended to just buy a TT motor and do a full swap but my NA motor is low mileage, great compression, and in overall good shape so I'm planning the NA-TT route. I'm aware I have to run low boost or E85 to account for the higher compression ratio on the NA

My question is, what's a good price on 2 turbos? I see a set on ebay for $325 out of a manual car with the oil lines and some piping I'm considering bidding on.

Also, is it recommend to always rebuild if they're used? In that case should I just buy new aftermarket turbos?

Here's the link if it helps, PFA. I appreciate the help!

https://ebay.us/m/W1t07J

Posted some questions a couple days ago about painting my faded wiper arms and the cowl. Ended up removing and painting the arms and they came out fantastic. I used Cerakote on the cowl and it also looks much better now.

After reinstalling everything though, my cowl only on the driver's side is slightly lifted and there's no rubber seal like on the passenger side. I know I didn't lose one so I'm curious if I didn't reinstall it correctly or if I'm just missing the seal since the passenger side has one.

Last pic is before painting

I removed my wiper arms and front cowl and plan on painting them tomorrow. I have a can of Rustoleum Auto Enamal matte black paint. Everything is cleaned and prepped for painting tomorrow but it got me wondering - are our cowls even supposed to be black? Will it look weird? I ask because I saw some pictures of new cowls and they're a dark gray, not black.

Also, would the cowl be safe to paint since it's exposed to the sun and will get hot? I'd hate for it to crack from heat but also I can't imagine the temperature difference would be that high from dark gray to black.

Thanks for any and all advice!

Paint link: https://a.co/d/06KfzAw5

I've been troubleshooting the cruise control in my 91 300zx NA 5spd. Here's what I've done so far

* Replaced all pedal grommets and verified they're working.

* Replaced the cruise control actuator under the hood with a new one from a friend (don't think mine was bad anyways).

* Checked all fuses

* Removed the cruise stalk and tested continuity with a multimeter, all features worked.

If I hit the cruise on button on the left pod, the green light on the dash turns on showing it's available. Then no matter what gear/speed etc, it will never actually set/engage when I press down on the stalk to set it.

I'm at a loss here, could it be the ASCD module that controls the cruise? I figured since the light turns on when I turn it on it couldn't be but I don't know what else is left. Any way I could test the ASCD?