u/RevolutionaryBed9142

It’s been a little over 2 years and I’m beyond grateful to be her current steward.

The last photo is a little advertisement edit I made out of one of my photos lol

Hello! I’ve owned this 2021 TLX for a few months now. I got ‘er around 31,000 miles and put roughly 3,000 more miles since. I plan on changing the oil around 36,000 miles (every 5k miles), and performing a transfer case drain around 50k miles. I know the maintenance minder recommends 7,500 miles between changes but since it’s turbo’d I want to be safe with it.

Besides wearable items like tires and brakes, is there anything else I should be considering or am I being too cautious? Are there any specific issues with the 2nd gen TLX I should be looking out for? I know the transfer case can be a problem but I don’t drive like a maniac and I don’t plan on boosting it so I’m not as worried.

I plan on owning this for a long time and I want to make sure it’s healthy well beyond 100k miles.

Pictures for attention. Hello! For a little while now, my 93 n/a 300zx has had a low idle which causes it to idle a bit too rough (around ~650 rpm?). I know the vg engines are sorta notorious for idling issues due to the sensors and vacuum setup, but I wanted to make this post to double check if I was on the right path to fixing it.

My buddy lent me his vacuum leak smoke detector and revealed two small leaks at the rubber resonator pipes behind the headlamps (connected to the metal intake pipes). We figured that the must’ve become loose naturally overtime, so we tightened those and a secondary test revealed no leaks. However, the idle was still too low so I’m thinking it’s the IACV. I’m thinking about removing, disassembling and cleaning the valve. Is there anything else I need to look out for?

For context, I took the car to a specialist and they realized the timing was advanced by a few degrees by either my prior mechanic or by the prior owner — I’m thinking this was an attempt to mask the idle issue. The EGR valve and piping was also recently cleaned and tested to operate correctly by that specialist, so I doubt that’s contributing to the idling issue.

Could it be that when the timing was reset to normal that calibration just naturally brought the idle down lower because of the IACV previously being set to compensate for the advanced timing? Any advice is appreciated.

Also side note, when turning the headlamps on, the rpm’s fail to adjust for the additional load sometimes. I wonder if that’s an IACV issue too.

Got the chance to drive her to Monterrey after a clutch job. Cemented my opinion that everyone needs to drive a 90’s z at least once in their lifetime.

Legitimate question though, I’ve been running the stock setup this entire time for the car, would this be holding my best time back?