u/Otherwise_Evidence67

I recently replied to another thread asking whether an older car below P50K is still worth buying (it's on another sub, so I won't link from here). I wanted to share this because, yes, it can still be done. You can find an older car below P100K, and sometimes even below P50K, but there are many caveats.

At this price range, many units are already close to parts-out or junk-car territory. They are usually not gas-and-go. You need patience, basic mechanical and electrical knowledge, tools, and extra money for repairs.

It mainly makes sense when you already know your way around cars, or you are willing to learn while recognizing when professional help is necessary. When you depend entirely on mechanics and technicians, you can easily spend much more than the initial purchase price.

It also makes sense if it's not your only vehicle. Kasi you can expect a lot of initial downtime while you make it roadworthy, safe, and presentable. If you have other vehicles, kapag may need ayusin you can easily drive to the auto parts store.

Doing some of the work yourself can save a lot. You can use surplus parts, repair items using available spares, and avoid labor charges for simple jobs. You also learn more about the car with every diagnosis and repair.

Knowing your own vehicle is valuable because an outside mechanic may not know its history. That can sometimes lead to unnecessary parts replacement or the wrong diagnostic process.

Looking for a cheap manual car

I had been searching for an inexpensive manual project because all four of our current cars are automatic, and one already needs a transmission rebuild.

My budget was around P30K to P40K, so I was expecting issues. My requirements were simple: manual transmission, running condition, reasonably complete, aircon working, and still worth saving.

I managed to inspect several cars in one day because all the sellers were within roughly 30 minutes to an hour of my location. Most were advertised for around P32K to P35K.

I checked them in this order:

• Mazda 323 Rayban
• Nissan Sentra LEC
• Toyota Corona
• Mazda 323 box type

All were mid-to-late 1990s models.

The Rayban had no aircon, and the shifter felt vague. It did not always seem to engage cleanly.

The Sentra LEC had cold aircon but came with its own issues. The dashboard and aircon controls were cracked, and the hood was almost completely stripped. The seller (who was selling both Mazda and Nissan) admitted that he was in the buy-and-sell business. I was also put off because he did not seem comfortable with how thoroughly I was inspecting the cars.

I then test-drove the Corona but was initially not impressed. Some sections neded latero work, probably due to bad body work earlier done. It did not seem to be a good deal for the seller's asking price of 35K. At my initial haggled down price of 27K, it could probably work, but I wanted to check out another car first before committing.

The boxtype Mazda 323 looked promising in the advertisement. During the test drive, however, the carburetor could not maintain idle properly, even after I attempted some basic cleaning and adjustment.

The interior was also too rough for me. It did not have a proper headliner. Instead, it had exposed aftermarket or household ceiling insulation. I managed to negotiate the price down to P20K, but I eventually walked away because I could not reliably drive it home.

Going back for the Toyota

After checking the box-type Mazda, I returned to the Toyota Corona. The two sellers were only about 20 minutes apart, so comparing both cars on the same day was easy.

The Corona seller appeared to need funds for rent. He kept calling to ask whether I was coming back while I was inspecting the other car. At the same time, he also seemed hesitant to let the Corona go.

During our initial discussion, I negotiated the advertised P35K price down to P27K because I had already noticed signs of previous bodywork in the photos. There appeared to be filler and paint repairs that may not have been done properly.

I then offered P25K after seeing the other issues. When I returned after checking the Mazda, I sensed more urgency from the seller, so I lowered my offer to P20K (we were ready to head back home at the time).

He asked me to add a little more, and we eventually agreed on P23K.

Since my original budget was P30K to P40K, getting it for P23K felt like a bonus.

What I got for P23K

The car is definitely still a project. I would rate the exterior around 5/10. It is serviceable, but it has cosmetic issues and small patches of rust that need attention. I did check the undersides, underneath the carpet, and behind the glovebox, and it does not appear to be flooded. Seems the rust was due to a previous body filler work done incorrectly resulting in moisture buildup.

The interior was the pleasant surprise. For the price, I would rate it around 7/10. Since it is a midsize 1990s sedan, it is also more spacious than your typical subcompact.

The cabin was reasonably clean, and the dashboard was intact - did not have cracks. Headliner was intact and clean. No sign of previous owner having smoked. The driver’s master window and door-switch assembly needed replacement, though (working, but with cracked housing ). One exterior door handle also needed to be changed. Both are relatively inexpensive online.

Three of the windows were not working. The horn also needed replacement, although the seller included some spare parts like horn, window motors, and regulators in the trunk.

Battery was good. Was able to test drive the car at cold start. The aircon is very cold, which is a major plus. Many cheap cars are advertised as “freon lang kulang,” but that can mean anything from a minor leak to a seized, damaged, or completely deleted compressor (I've had an expensive experience with this before when I was still new to project cars).

Based on the available documents, the first owner appears to have kept the car for around 30 years before selling it to the second owner (seller) four years ago.

The first owner also seems to have maintained the engine properly and had the suspension refreshed at some point. No actual records, but mostly based on my personal assessment. Many cars of this age are already sagging or bagsak, but this one still sits properly. Engine is also fairly healthy for its age - around 175K Km.

I also like that neither owner modified it with lowering springs, body kits, or other major cosmetic changes. Those are major issues for me, because they also affect wear and tear, and could hide other issues.

It is a 2.0-liter Corona, which may have made it less appealing to most buyers. Many Filipino motorists prefer smaller 1.3-liter or 1.6-liter engines, kaya pansin ko rin subcompacts usually sell at a higher price. For me, okay lang because I am already used to larger engines.

Work completed so far

Most of the work was DIY, except for the tire installation.

• Replaced the old tires with 2022 surplus tires with around 80 percent tread. I also changed the size back to stock spec, as previous owner used mismatched front and back setup. Cost: P3,000
• Changed the oil and filter using semi-synthetic 15W-40 and a VIC-102 filter: P1,100
• Temporarily repaired some door-latch issues
• Fixed the driver-side power window by transferring a motor from one of the spare regulators in the trunk
• Checked the idle and possible vacuum-related issues.
• Replaced the PCV valve using a spare intended for another Toyota
• Replaced busted tail lamp and foglamp bulbs
• Updated registration: umabot ng P7,000+ due to delinquency; will take care of transfer of ownership later

Planned repairs and maintenance

The car still needs a proper baseline service and several small repairs.

• Minor body repair from my suking latero, initially estimated at P1,500 for cutting, welding, rust conversion, and primer
• Around P3,500 total if paint is included
• New exterior door handles or latches, around P600 each online
• Replacement driver’s master window switch, around P800 online. Original is still functional but not aesthetically OK.
• Repair of the rear windows using the same motor-transfer method
• Replacement brake pads
• Brake-fluid flush and bleeding
• Coolant flush and replacement
• Manual-transmission gear-oil inspection or replacement
• Timing-belt inspection
• Additional inspection of hoses, vacuum lines, and other tune-up items

I was offered around P15K for a complete washover, but I would rather identify and repair all the rust properly first since a washover might just cover things up cosmetically. There is little sense in repainting the car before checking whether more metalwork is needed underneath. It's still presentable with original paint except for some small body work in some sections.

Brake, coolant, vacuum hoses - I could easily do as I have done so many times before. I can probably attempt the timing-belt replacement myself, but it is labor-intensive and requires removing an engine support. I may bring that job to my suking mechanic instead.

I normally handle basic repairs and maintenance myself, but I also know when a job requires professional equipment or experience.

For serious rust, bodywork, wheel alignment, aircon repair, and other specialized work, I would rather pay someone who regularly does that type of job.

Fuel consumption is currently around 6 to 7 km/L in city driving.

That is not surprising for an old 2.0-liter car that still needs baseline work. Hopefully, it improves after sorting out the PCV system, vacuum lines, fluids, ignition condition, and other general tune-up items.

Is a sub-P50K car worth buying?

Yes, it is still possible to get a decent older car below P100K, or even below P50K. However, this type of purchase is not suitable for everyone.

Hindi siya gas-and-go. The purchase price is only an initial cost - it's like that naman when you buy any used car at any price range. You need to inspect carefully, prepare for repairs, and have enough judgment to walk away from the wrong unit.

For P23K, I felt that the risk was acceptable. Had the project failed, I could probably have sold the car again for close to the same amount, taken a relatively small loss, or parted it out.

After working on it, though, I am leaning toward keeping it.

I do not usually modify or dress up my project cars purely for appearance. I prefer keeping them as close to stock as possible and turning them into decent, reliable, and usable daily drivers.

For now, I think this Corona was a good cheap project find. It is something I could drive until the wheels fall off.

The experience also reminds me of a midsize mid-2000s Chevy I bought from a friend for P30K around four years ago. I repaired it and used it as an alternate daily and the family's coding car, until transmission issues appeared earlier this year, requiring a rebuild. Marami rin akong natutunan while working on that car. The tranny rebuild itself medyo pricey because it’s not a common car like your average Toyota or Honda (nakapagpa-rebuild na ako ng Honda tranny for just 30K). But at this point, naka-ROI na rin ako. That car, however, is another story altogether.

Some dent on the hood (can probably be fixed via PDR).

Covered the rear handle first pending replacement.

Rust spots on the C-pillar. I sanded it out and poked with a screwdriver to see up to where the rot goes. Rot seems to be limited to the outer skin. Will be bringing to the latero this week. Should be a 2-3 hour fix or less. I've been planning to invest in a grinder and welding kit, but I feel I still need to learn a lot more before venturing into this kind of repair.

Interior is good. I have yet to properly wire the dashcam (this is just borrowed from one of my other cars, will need to buy one soon for this car).

Other options ko pala at this price point

• Kia pride CD5 or sedan. I've seen some decent ones for 50-60k. Yung mga lower priced though mukhang mas laspag at hindi gaano maalaga ang owners
• Toyota big body. Or small body. But at this price point usually mga mas laspag na.
• Chevy Venture minivan - kasi familiar na ako sa platform. And if things don't go well pwede ko kahuyin ang 4T60E transmission. Pero lakas nga sa gas and medyo malaki dalhin
• Sentra B14. I had several B13 before pero parang naninipisan ako sa. Kaha, b14 might be safer.
• I also wanted to look into Toyota revo but it's much more expensive (at least 130k). Familiar naman na rin ako sa platform and engine because I'm also maintaining a swapped carbureted 7k engine in one of my projects, I could easily work on them (loosely similar to the 1RZE namn din). Looked into Tamaraw FX din but those I saw on sale mga laspag na.
• Camry XV20 din pala. Ito actually target ko kaya napadpad sa corona (its predecessor). Medyo mataas taas pa price ng xv20 at least 65k but upwards of 130k for a fresher unit. May nakita ako 43k pero medyo mas marami na issues, and AT. Wala yatang release ng manual Camry dito.

Looking forward to doing more work on the Corolla. So far it's capable as a decent daily driver/beater. Pinag-aagawan nga namin ng son and daugther ko kasi we like driving manual, but due to circumstances our other cars are all matic. It's also nice to drive an "NPC" car every once in a while, kasi masyadong identifiable sa akin yung isang german 1980s classic ko when I bring it on the road. Pansin ko lang, medyo ginigitgit ako ng mga bigger cars with the Corona than when I drive the german classic which is a bit smaller or my midsize American brand, which is longer. Pati sa mga parking and establishments. Para bang mas respected ng mga tao yung mga naka BMW, Benz, etc.

Sharing this from my original post in the main CarsPH sub.

I recently replied to another thread asking whether an older car below P50K is still worth buying. I wanted to share this because, yes, it can still be done. You can find an older car below P100K, and sometimes even below P50K, but there are many caveats.

At this price range, many units are already close to parts-out or junk-car territory. They are usually not gas-and-go. You need patience, basic mechanical and electrical knowledge, tools, and extra money for repairs.

It mainly makes sense when you already know your way around cars, or you are willing to learn while recognizing when professional help is necessary. When you depend entirely on mechanics and technicians, you can easily spend much more than the initial purchase price.

It also makes sense if it's not your only vehicle. Kasi you can expect a lot of initial downtime while you make it roadworthy, safe, and presentable. If you have other vehicles, kapag may need ayusin you can easily drive to the auto parts store.

Doing some of the work yourself can save a lot. You can use surplus parts, repair items using available spares, and avoid labor charges for simple jobs. You also learn more about the car with every diagnosis and repair.

Knowing your own vehicle is valuable because an outside mechanic may not know its history. That can sometimes lead to unnecessary parts replacement or the wrong diagnostic process.

Looking for a cheap manual car

I had been searching for an inexpensive manual project because all four of our current cars are automatic, and one already needs a transmission rebuild.

My budget was around P30K to P40K, so I was expecting issues. My requirements were simple: manual transmission, running condition, reasonably complete, aircon working, and still worth saving.

I managed to inspect several cars in one day because all the sellers were within roughly 30 minutes to an hour of my location. Most were advertised for around P32K to P35K.

I checked them in this order:

• Mazda 323 Rayban
• Nissan Sentra LEC
• Toyota Corona
• Mazda 323 box type

All were mid-to-late 1990s models.

The Rayban had no aircon, and the shifter felt vague. It did not always seem to engage cleanly.

The Sentra LEC had cold aircon but came with its own issues. The dashboard and aircon controls were cracked, and the hood was almost completely stripped. The seller (who was selling both Mazda and Nissan) admitted that he was in the buy-and-sell business. I was also put off because he did not seem comfortable with how thoroughly I was inspecting the cars.

I then test-drove the Corona but was initially not impressed. Some sections neded latero work, probably due to bad body work earlier done. It did not seem to be a good deal for the seller's asking price of 35K. At my initial haggled down price of 27K, it could probably work, but I wanted to check out another car first before committing.

The boxtype Mazda 323 looked promising in the advertisement. During the test drive, however, the carburetor could not maintain idle properly, even after I attempted some basic cleaning and adjustment.

The interior was also too rough for me. It did not have a proper headliner. Instead, it had exposed aftermarket or household ceiling insulation. I managed to negotiate the price down to P20K, but I eventually walked away because I could not reliably drive it home.

Going back for the Toyota

After checking the box-type Mazda, I returned to the Toyota Corona. The two sellers were only about 20 minutes apart, so comparing both cars on the same day was easy.

The Corona seller appeared to need funds for rent. He kept calling to ask whether I was coming back while I was inspecting the other car. At the same time, he also seemed hesitant to let the Corona go.

During our initial discussion, I negotiated the advertised P35K price down to P27K because I had already noticed signs of previous bodywork in the photos. There appeared to be filler and paint repairs that may not have been done properly.

I then offered P25K after seeing the other issues. When I returned after checking the Mazda, I sensed more urgency from the seller, so I lowered my offer to P20K (we were ready to head back home at the time).

He asked me to add a little more, and we eventually agreed on P23K.

Since my original budget was P30K to P40K, getting it for P23K felt like a bonus.

What I got for P23K

The car is definitely still a project. I would rate the exterior around 5/10. It is serviceable, but it has cosmetic issues and small patches of rust that need attention. I did check the undersides, underneath the carpet, and behind the glovebox, and it does not appear to be flooded. Seems the rust was due to a previous body filler work done incorrectly resulting in moisture buildup.

The interior was the pleasant surprise. For the price, I would rate it around 7/10. Since it is a midsize 1990s sedan, it is also more spacious than your typical subcompact.

The cabin was reasonably clean, and the dashboard was intact - did not have cracks. Headliner was intact and clean. No sign of previous owner having smoked. The driver’s master window and door-switch assembly needed replacement, though (working, but with cracked housing ). One exterior door handle also needed to be changed. Both are relatively inexpensive online.

Three of the windows were not working. The horn also needed replacement, although the seller included some spare parts like horn, window motors, and regulators in the trunk.

Battery was good. Was able to test drive the car at cold start. The aircon is very cold, which is a major plus. Many cheap cars are advertised as “freon lang kulang,” but that can mean anything from a minor leak to a seized, damaged, or completely deleted compressor (I've had an expensive experience with this before when I was still new to project cars).

Based on the available documents, the first owner appears to have kept the car for around 30 years before selling it to the second owner (seller) four years ago.

The first owner also seems to have maintained the engine properly and had the suspension refreshed at some point. No actual records, but mostly based on my personal assessment. Many cars of this age are already sagging or bagsak, but this one still sits properly. Engine is also fairly healthy for its age - around 175K Km.

I also like that neither owner modified it with lowering springs, body kits, or other major cosmetic changes. Those are major issues for me, because they also affect wear and tear, and could hide other issues.

It is a 2.0-liter Corona, which may have made it less appealing to most buyers. Many Filipino motorists prefer smaller 1.3-liter or 1.6-liter engines, kaya pansin ko rin subcompacts usually sell at a higher price. For me, okay lang because I am already used to larger engines.

Work completed so far

Most of the work was DIY, except for the tire installation.

• Replaced the old tires with 2022 surplus tires with around 80 percent tread. I also changed the size back to stock spec, as previous owner used mismatched front and back setup. Cost: P3,000
• Changed the oil and filter using semi-synthetic 15W-40 and a VIC-102 filter: P1,100
• Temporarily repaired some door-latch issues
• Fixed the driver-side power window by transferring a motor from one of the spare regulators in the trunk
• Checked the idle and possible vacuum-related issues.
• Replaced the PCV valve using a spare intended for another Toyota
• Replaced busted tail lamp and foglamp bulbs
• Updated registration: umabot ng P7,000+ due to delinquency; will take care of transfer of ownership later

Planned repairs and maintenance

The car still needs a proper baseline service and several small repairs.

• Minor body repair from my suking latero, initially estimated at P1,500 for cutting, welding, rust conversion, and primer
• Around P3,500 total if paint is included
• New exterior door handles or latches, around P600 each online
• Replacement driver’s master window switch, around P800 online. Original is still functional but not aesthetically OK.
• Repair of the rear windows using the same motor-transfer method
• Replacement brake pads
• Brake-fluid flush and bleeding
• Coolant flush and replacement
• Manual-transmission gear-oil inspection or replacement
• Timing-belt inspection
• Additional inspection of hoses, vacuum lines, and other tune-up items

I was offered around P15K for a complete washover, but I would rather identify and repair all the rust properly first since a washover might just cover things up cosmetically. There is little sense in repainting the car before checking whether more metalwork is needed underneath. It's still presentable with original paint except for some small body work in some sections.

Brake, coolant, vacuum hoses - I could easily do as I have done so many times before. I can probably attempt the timing-belt replacement myself, but it is labor-intensive and requires removing an engine support. I may bring that job to my suking mechanic instead.

I normally handle basic repairs and maintenance myself, but I also know when a job requires professional equipment or experience.

For serious rust, bodywork, wheel alignment, aircon repair, and other specialized work, I would rather pay someone who regularly does that type of job.

Fuel consumption is currently around 6 to 7 km/L in city driving.

That is not surprising for an old 2.0-liter car that still needs baseline work. Hopefully, it improves after sorting out the PCV system, vacuum lines, fluids, ignition condition, and other general tune-up items.

Is a sub-P50K car worth buying?

Yes, it is still possible to get a decent older car below P100K, or even below P50K. However, this type of purchase is not suitable for everyone.

Hindi siya gas-and-go. The purchase price is only an initial cost - it's like that naman when you buy any used car at any price range. You need to inspect carefully, prepare for repairs, and have enough judgment to walk away from the wrong unit.

For P23K, I felt that the risk was acceptable. Had the project failed, I could probably have sold the car again for close to the same amount, taken a relatively small loss, or parted it out.

After working on it, though, I am leaning toward keeping it.

I do not usually modify or dress up my project cars purely for appearance. I prefer keeping them as close to stock as possible and turning them into decent, reliable, and usable daily drivers.

For now, I think this Corona was a good cheap project find. It is something I could drive until the wheels fall off.

The experience also reminds me of a midsize mid-2000s Chevy I bought from a friend for P30K around four years ago. I repaired it and used it as an alternate daily and the family's coding car, until transmission issues appeared earlier this year, requiring a rebuild. Marami rin akong natutunan while working on that car. The tranny rebuild itself medyo pricey because it’s not a common car like your average Toyota or Honda (nakapagpa-rebuild na ako ng Honda tranny for just 30K). But at this point, naka-ROI na rin ako. That car, however, is another story altogether.

Some dent on the hood (can probably be fixed via PDR).

Covered the rear handle first pending replacement.

Rust spots on the C-pillar. I sanded it out and poked with a screwdriver to see up to where the rot goes. Rot seems to be limited to the outer skin. Will be bringing to the latero tomorrow. Should be a 2-3 hour fix or less. I've been planning to invest in a grinder and welding kit, but I feel I still need to learn a lot more before venturing into this kind of repair.

Interior is good. I have yet to properly wire the dashcam (this is just borrowed from one of my other cars, will need to buy one soon for this car).

Other options ko pala at this price point

• Kia pride CD5 or sedan. I've seen some decent ones for 50-60k. Yung mga lower priced though mukhang mas laspag at hindi gaano maalaga ang owners
• Toyota big body. Or small body. But at this price point usually mga mas laspag na.
• Chevy Venture minivan - kasi familiar na ako sa platform. And if things don't go well pwede ko kahuyin ang 4T60E transmission. Pero lakas nga sa gas and medyo malaki dalhin
• Sentra B14. I had several B13 before pero parang naninipisan ako sa. Kaha, b14 might be safer.
• I also wanted to look into Toyota revo but it's much more expensive (at least 130k). Familiar naman na rin ako sa platform and engine because I'm also maintaining a swapped carbureted 7k engine in one of my projects, I could easily work on them (loosely similar to the 1RZE namn din). Looked into Tamaraw FX din but those I saw on sale mga laspag na.
• Camry XV20 din pala. Ito actually target ko kaya napadpad sa corona (its predecessor). Medyo mataas taas pa price ng xv20 at least 65k but upwards of 130k for a fresher unit. May nakita ako 43k pero medyo mas marami na issues, and AT. Wala yatang release ng manual Camry dito.

Looking forward to doing more work on the Corolla. So far it's capable as a decent daily driver/beater. Pinag-aagawan nga namin ng son and daugther ko kasi we like driving manual, but due to circumstances our other cars are all matic. It's also nice to drive an "NPC" car every once in a while, kasi masyadong identifiable sa akin yung isang german 1980s classic ko when I bring it on the road. Pansin ko lang, medyo ginigitgit ako ng mga bigger cars with the Corona than when I drive the german classic which is a bit smaller. Pati sa mga parkign and establishments. Para bang mas respected ng mga tao yung mga naka BMW, Benz, etc.

I recently replied to another thread asking whether an older car below P50K is still worth buying. I wanted to share this because, yes, it can still be done. You can find an older car below P100K, and sometimes even below P50K, but there are many caveats.

At this price range, many units are already close to parts-out or junk-car territory. They are usually not gas-and-go. You need patience, basic mechanical and electrical knowledge, tools, and extra money for repairs.

It mainly makes sense when you already know your way around cars, or you are willing to learn while recognizing when professional help is necessary. When you depend entirely on mechanics and technicians, you can easily spend much more than the initial purchase price.

It also makes sense if it's not your only vehicle. Kasi you can expect a lot of initial downtime while you make it roadworthy, safe, and presentable. If you have other vehicles, kapag may need ayusin you can easily drive to the auto parts store.

Doing some of the work yourself can save a lot. You can use surplus parts, repair items using available spares, and avoid labor charges for simple jobs. You also learn more about the car with every diagnosis and repair.

Knowing your own vehicle is valuable because an outside mechanic may not know its history. That can sometimes lead to unnecessary parts replacement or the wrong diagnostic process.

Looking for a cheap manual car

I had been searching for an inexpensive manual project because all four of our current cars are automatic, and one already needs a transmission rebuild.

My budget was around P30K to P40K, so I was expecting issues. My requirements were simple: manual transmission, running condition, reasonably complete, aircon working, and still worth saving.

I managed to inspect several cars in one day because all the sellers were within roughly 30 minutes to an hour of my location. Most were advertised for around P32K to P35K.

I checked them in this order:

• Mazda 323 Rayban
• Nissan Sentra LEC
• Toyota Corona
• Mazda 323 box type

All were mid-to-late 1990s models.

The Rayban had no aircon, and the shifter felt vague. It did not always seem to engage cleanly.

The Sentra LEC had cold aircon but came with its own issues. The dashboard and aircon controls were cracked, and the hood was almost completely stripped. The seller (who was selling both Mazda and Nissan) admitted that he was in the buy-and-sell business. I was also put off because he did not seem comfortable with how thoroughly I was inspecting the cars.

I then test-drove the Corona but was initially not impressed. Some sections neded latero work, probably due to bad body work earlier done. It did not seem to be a good deal for the seller's asking price of 35K. At my initial haggled down price of 27K, it could probably work, but I wanted to check out another car first before committing.

The boxtype Mazda 323 looked promising in the advertisement. During the test drive, however, the carburetor could not maintain idle properly, even after I attempted some basic cleaning and adjustment.

The interior was also too rough for me. It did not have a proper headliner. Instead, it had exposed aftermarket or household ceiling insulation. I managed to negotiate the price down to P20K, but I eventually walked away because I could not reliably drive it home.

Going back for the Toyota

After checking the box-type Mazda, I returned to the Toyota Corona. The two sellers were only about 20 minutes apart, so comparing both cars on the same day was easy.

The Corona seller appeared to need funds for rent. He kept calling to ask whether I was coming back while I was inspecting the other car. At the same time, he also seemed hesitant to let the Corona go.

During our initial discussion, I negotiated the advertised P35K price down to P27K because I had already noticed signs of previous bodywork in the photos. There appeared to be filler and paint repairs that may not have been done properly.

I then offered P25K after seeing the other issues. When I returned after checking the Mazda, I sensed more urgency from the seller, so I lowered my offer to P20K (we were ready to head back home at the time).

He asked me to add a little more, and we eventually agreed on P23K.

Since my original budget was P30K to P40K, getting it for P23K felt like a bonus.

What I got for P23K

The car is definitely still a project. I would rate the exterior around 5/10. It is serviceable, but it has cosmetic issues and small patches of rust that need attention. I did check the undersides, underneath the carpet, and behind the glovebox, and it does not appear to be flooded. Seems the rust was due to a previous body filler work done incorrectly resulting in moisture buildup.

The interior was the pleasant surprise. For the price, I would rate it around 7/10. Since it is a midsize 1990s sedan, it is also more spacious than your typical subcompact.

The cabin was reasonably clean, and the dashboard was intact - did not have cracks. Headliner was intact and clean. No sign of previous owner having smoked. The driver’s master window and door-switch assembly needed replacement, though (working, but with cracked housing ). One exterior door handle also needed to be changed. Both are relatively inexpensive online.

Three of the windows were not working. The horn also needed replacement, although the seller included some spare parts like horn, window motors, and regulators in the trunk.

Battery was good. Was able to test drive the car at cold start. The aircon is very cold, which is a major plus. Many cheap cars are advertised as “freon lang kulang,” but that can mean anything from a minor leak to a seized, damaged, or completely deleted compressor (I've had an expensive experience with this before when I was still new to project cars).

Based on the available documents, the first owner appears to have kept the car for around 30 years before selling it to the second owner (seller) four years ago.

The first owner also seems to have maintained the engine properly and had the suspension refreshed at some point. No actual records, but mostly based on my personal assessment. Many cars of this age are already sagging or bagsak, but this one still sits properly. Engine is also fairly healthy for its age - around 175K Km.

I also like that neither owner modified it with lowering springs, body kits, or other major cosmetic changes. Those are major issues for me, because they also affect wear and tear, and could hide other issues.

It is a 2.0-liter Corona, which may have made it less appealing to most buyers. Many Filipino motorists prefer smaller 1.3-liter or 1.6-liter engines, kaya pansin ko rin subcompacts usually sell at a higher price. For me, okay lang because I am already used to larger engines.

Work completed so far

Most of the work was DIY, except for the tire installation.

• Replaced the old tires with 2022 surplus tires with around 80 percent tread. I also changed the size back to stock spec, as previous owner used mismatched front and back setup. Cost: P3,000
• Changed the oil and filter using semi-synthetic 15W-40 and a VIC-102 filter: P1,100
• Temporarily repaired some door-latch issues
• Fixed the driver-side power window by transferring a motor from one of the spare regulators in the trunk
• Checked the idle and possible vacuum-related issues.
• Replaced the PCV valve using a spare intended for another Toyota
• Replaced busted tail lamp and foglamp bulbs
• Updated registration: umabot ng P7,000+ due to delinquency; will take care of transfer of ownership later

Planned repairs and maintenance

The car still needs a proper baseline service and several small repairs.

• Minor body repair from my suking latero, initially estimated at P1,500 for cutting, welding, rust conversion, and primer
• Around P3,500 total if paint is included
• New exterior door handles or latches, around P600 each online
• Replacement driver’s master window switch, around P800 online. Original is still functional but not aesthetically OK.
• Repair of the rear windows using the same motor-transfer method
• Replacement brake pads
• Brake-fluid flush and bleeding
• Coolant flush and replacement
• Manual-transmission gear-oil inspection or replacement
• Timing-belt inspection
• Additional inspection of hoses, vacuum lines, and other tune-up items

I was offered around P15K for a complete washover, but I would rather identify and repair all the rust properly first since a washover might just cover things up cosmetically. There is little sense in repainting the car before checking whether more metalwork is needed underneath. It's still presentable with original paint except for some small body work in some sections.

Brake, coolant, vacuum hoses - I could easily do as I have done so many times before. I can probably attempt the timing-belt replacement myself, but it is labor-intensive and requires removing an engine support. I may bring that job to my suking mechanic instead.

I normally handle basic repairs and maintenance myself, but I also know when a job requires professional equipment or experience.

For serious rust, bodywork, wheel alignment, aircon repair, and other specialized work, I would rather pay someone who regularly does that type of job.

Fuel consumption is currently around 6 to 7 km/L in city driving.

That is not surprising for an old 2.0-liter car that still needs baseline work. Hopefully, it improves after sorting out the PCV system, vacuum lines, fluids, ignition condition, and other general tune-up items.

Is a sub-P50K car worth buying?

Yes, it is still possible to get a decent older car below P100K, or even below P50K. However, this type of purchase is not suitable for everyone.

Hindi siya gas-and-go. The purchase price is only an initial cost - it's like that naman when you buy any used car at any price range. You need to inspect carefully, prepare for repairs, and have enough judgment to walk away from the wrong unit.

For P23K, I felt that the risk was acceptable. Had the project failed, I could probably have sold the car again for close to the same amount, taken a relatively small loss, or parted it out.

After working on it, though, I am leaning toward keeping it.

I do not usually modify or dress up my project cars purely for appearance. I prefer keeping them as close to stock as possible and turning them into decent, reliable, and usable daily drivers.

For now, I think this Corona was a good cheap project find. It is something I could drive until the wheels fall off.

The experience also reminds me of a midsize mid-2000s Chevy I bought from a friend for P30K around four years ago. I repaired it and used it as an alternate daily and the family's coding car, until transmission issues appeared earlier this year, requiring a rebuild. Marami rin akong natutunan while working on that car. The tranny rebuild itself medyo pricey because it’s not a common car like your average Toyota or Honda (nakapagpa-rebuild na ako ng Honda tranny for just 30K). But at this point, naka-ROI na rin ako. That car, however, is another story altogether.