u/Passionate_Curiosity

Hello everyone. A google search of this topic brought me to this subreddit and it looked like some pretty qualified experts were willing to pitch in. Hoping for the same luck. Thank you in advance for your time.

TLDR: what is the best culvert cap design to prevent continuous washout here?

Context:

First start to finish home build project in South Florida. Old grove and farm property converted to residential. Sandy/silty soil but customer had 80+ loads of regular fill dirt brought in. Front (east) side of the property has a ditch that we had ~55' of 18" double walled HDPE culvert installed in and then backfilled with soil, base rock, and then 57 stone on top; however, the problem is the culvert edges...

Lots of pictures below, but the short of it is: county road department requires a concrete culvert cap of the following specs: 4" thickness, reinforced with 6x6 wire mesh, that extends 18" beyond the culvert opening on the top and sides, and mitered at a 3:1 slope (1 foot of run for ever 3 feet of rise).

We've been having our asses handed to us with rain this entire build. We had the entire property (1 acre) graded to sod ready when a storm came through and created a ton of wash out the beginning of April. Land development/sod contractor regraded everything, extended the culverts out another 8', and sodded on April 16th. It's been great and took root quickly; however, we got heavy rain this weekend (1"+) and already have washout from under the sod that I can only imagine is going to get worse. I know we have to do a culvert cap, but the other culvert caps on the other properties out here are getting washed out as well. One owner put rip rap rock around his but you can still see the dirt washing out from under it and the rock sinking.

I was talking with a guy from the road department and was thinking we could just make the culvert cap much larger as there's no maximum, only a minimum requirement. They could also "bowl" it to wrap the curve above the culvert and go much higher. See last image.

Looking for some expertise and input on what the best "set it and forget it" method would be. Concrete contractor thinks doing it the same way the others are would be fine despite the washout. Thank you so much in advance.

Runoff from 2.5\" rain on April 7th - 1

Runoff from 2.5\" rain on April 7th - 2

Regraded and sodded with Bahia on April 16th - 1

Regraded and sodded with Bahia on April 16th - 2

1 month post sod runoff on May 17th - 1

1 month post sod runoff on May 17th - 2

1 month post sod runoff on May 17th - 3

Culvert shape idea/proposal - still concerned with the runoff to the top right you can see

Hey all. Spent my teens mowing fields on zero turns and tractors. That said - I’m finishing a house build on two acres and just bought a Gravely Pro Turn 372 with a 72” deck. It’s entry/mid grade commercial and I just need it to keep up with our two acres (could turn to four as we buy the empty lots behind us).

We have no trees or beds in the yard, but did I go overboard with the 72”? Should I swap with the 60” version? Buying an enclosed trailer to store it in was an afterthought and the 7’ wide enclosed trailers only have like 76” clearance between the cables.

Just looking for perspective. Thanks all!

Our family has property (Fort Myers, FL) we're building out our houses on. All the same floor plan and we're the last to finish. They all used cheap 6" puck lights in the ceiling largely following the layout in the designs below. I've been researching everything every step of the way to try to keep everything more "step above" the cheapest options while still being considerate of cost. That said, I've read that:

1. Flat ceiling lights are generally bashed online for glare
2. Smaller is better as far as lighting goes and is where the industry is going

I found the Halo RL 4" Canless Recessed LED Downlights at Home Depot weren't hated here so I tried those out. I also ordered and mocked up some of the LUSA Lighting 4" Lights. With this being a starter home, I'm really trying not to go over like $80-100 a light with there being 55 of them. The problem I had with the LUSAs was that they only go up to 950 lumens and are fixed color. The problem with the Halo RLs was that they also only go up to 900 lumens.

I found a pretty decent (albeit free) online calculator for determining lighting needs by use area and sq ft. What I found is that, unless I go with more lights or brighter lights, I'm not going to get the required lighting per room from just my ceiling lights. I know this sub is big on supplementary lighting but, again, this is really a starter home and while we'll add lighted fans, island lighting, etc, I'd really like to try to accomplish the general lighting needs with the ceiling lights.

I didn't really know what to do from here so I went onto the DMF website, found their rep near me (Sesco Lighting) and reached out. Explained the situation to the guy on the phone and he recommended some Lightolier Modulyte M4Rs. These bad boys go all the way up to 2500 lumens (and beyond)! The company he partnered me with were telling me like $120 per light which was more than I was wanting to spend but then I found on Platt clearance website online that had them for $58 a piece. Great I thought...except...they have this reflective chrome housing that is really going to make them stand out on the ceiling.

At this point I start looking online again and there are just so many overwhelming options. Really I'm just looking for: 4" or smaller retrofit recessed canless, adjustable color, selectable lumens up to 2,000+, all white dimmable lights under $100 a light. Any help would be sincerely appreciated. My spouse is hounding me about getting the lights ordered but I just don't know what to go with. Thank you all for attending my whole TED Talk here and, truly, thank you for your time if you made it this far.

https://preview.redd.it/loxbrcjmpezg1.jpg?width=1066&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f5367fc0a462d9a26ee3700ea2c1decf1d03b333

https://preview.redd.it/dldd5djmpezg1.jpg?width=910&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=59ff76293f619891c876c5041a7e055ac7d9f5bf