Every time I used the mower I needed to put gas in it and now the cable broke. Time to sell lol. Just kidding half to order the cable suprised it broke since it’s from 2021
I'm in the market for a new mulching, self propelled mower. I don't need anything super fancy, I just need something that cuts better than my Honda HRN216. I wanted to love the Honda, it was a real splurge for me at the time. I figured it'll be a good mower, it's a Honda right? It runs great, it really does, but it cuts like absolute crap. My lawn is decently thick but not overly so. I mow twice a week on full height and it still can't leave a clean cut. It looks like a blind man with scissors cut it. Yes I've put new mulching blades, the mower just has no lift. I can mow over a leaf and it doesn't even hit the blades.
I've been looking at everything on the market right now and is it just me or is everything avaliable under powered? The few that do have even a little more power don't have great reviews. It seems all the reliable brands don't make push mowers anymore. Everything has a Briggs (or worse) engine.
Just pulled the trigger on this 54” magnum. Looking forward to the first cut even if it’s at the seasons end.
I can hear the hate coming in already. Don’t worry, this mower won’t quit on you.
Found this mower in the trash, got it running again, then decided to give it a full Cowboys makeover.
What team should I do next?
I have a Husqvarna YTH2348 from 2008, I've had it for 3 summers now. And it's been really good until my last self performed oil change. After that every few seconds to twice a minute see a puff of smoke and smell burning oil.
The pics show where I see the oil pooling, but I'm not sure where it is really coming from.
I did make sure the oil filter was tightened hard.
Can anyone more knowledgeable than me help me figure where it's leaking?
Any questions feel free to ask!
Spent the better part of 3 weeks (in my time off) from buying it to having it all ready to skid around this winter, I had a blast and thought I'd atleast put it here as a beacon of hope to anyone who's questioning working on their own! Here's a bonus clip!
I'm looking to buy a used mower and came across these two options. The ts354xd has the Kawasaki engine and appears to be in great shape with annual maintenance done (oil, air filter, grease). The ts348d has the Kohler engine and recently had a crank seal leak and broken bolt in the oil pan, which was repaired by a reputable shop. I'm able to get the ts354xd for all $200 more. It does have double the hours and I have to drive a couple hours to pick it up but I'm wondering if anyone has thoughts here? Do I have a few bucks and get the ts348d? Should I be at all concerned with the hours on the ts354xd?
It's my first riding mower so would like your advice on these two options.
Thanks
Hi
I’m looking to buy a lawnmower for the first time. Which should I buy and what should I look for in one.
Wired or wireless?
Brands?
Power etc
Tia
I have a Craftsman riding mower with B&S engine that was hydro locked. I cleaned the carb & spark plug and replaced the engine oil. The mower stars up and runs great but when I max out the engine rpm the engine runs very rough. Any suggestions or ideas on fixing this problem?
I have been working on some lawn mowers for friends. It’s a nonprofit gig. I am doing it to keep busy. I am having a constant problem with carbs. They will start and run for a short time then die. I can’t find any adjustments on them. Seem to be all Briggs engines. I have replace fuel lines and filters checked tank filters. This is after I replace the carbs
I have a Husqvarna Yth22v 42 inch riding mower. The carb messed up and it will not run. So I purchase a carb from Amazon. Everything I read said it was a 2 barrel carb but after taking it apart it has a single barrel carb.
For extra power because it is really weak can I use this carb. I know I have to change the manifold.
So I ordered the manifold and it should be here today and I should have asked this before hand but didn't.
Next question is are there any other things I need to do to get it to work. I'm searching now for a air box replacement so the air filter will fit.
Help!
Aight, so, self-admitted handyman by necessity but I know my way around diagrams and hand tools. Twice now, after the original bolt sheared, I've tried to reassemble this sheave for the belt drive of my riding mower, and as soon as it's lowered down & engaged, it all falls apart again. I took the deck off completely, reassembled it with a new flange nut, new bolt and a nylon spacer (not the same as the plastic one in the diagram, this is the only part that differed). What am I missing/doing wrong? Pls help
I’m looking into a new mower and want to know honest reviews on this unit. I know the Kawasaki is the way to go based on research but want to know what type of maintenance is expected to keep the unit running. It will be used on 1 acre lot not commercially used. I’m sure it’s overkill for the yard however I’d rather buy a better machine and keep it running for a long future uses. I’ve got the person down to $1500 and comes with a Velke.
What are your thoughts?
I have had this mower since probably 2001. Loved it. Very light, easy to move around, and would start on the first pull every time. About 5 years ago a part on the wheel broke and since I was kind of desperate I bought a used Toro and shoved the old one under a crawlspace. I never like the Toro. Took at least 5 hard pulls to start, it’s heavy, small wheels and the propelled wheel doesn’t help much.
Today I decided to pull the Craftsman out. It’s got a lot of rust but easy to clean up. I put some gas in it, gave it a pull and it started right up and ran fine. Couldn’t believe it, after 5 years outside. Anyway, I took a good look at what is actually wrong with the wheel and I think I figured it out. I think it’s really just the height adjustment lever. So I started looking around and all I can find is some rusty ones on eBay. All the parts places don’t seem to have them in stock anymore.
Just wondering if anyone knowledgeable around here can help. I’ll attach a few pictures. If you could help me figure out if I got the part right, if the part is available somewhere, or if I’m completely wrong. As to the issue, the wheel really just moves up and down freely. I don’t see anything broken besides the pictured bracket.
Thanks for any insight, I would love to get this old thing going again.
First picture close up of the loose wheel.
Second picture is the broken height adjustment lever
Third picture is what I think is the replacement part
Fourth picture is the mower, the left rear is the issue, as you can see it’s just bottomed out right now.
I have a Huster 54" raptor X I have had for a few years. To be clear, I am homesteader with several orchards, small vineyard and a lot of rough ground. I just need stuff cut down, I don't give a F about a golf course grade yard - ain't got time for that :)
I am trying to make maintenance easier for changing blades and I was debating getting a rolling chain hoist to help with the situation since it has more versatility (they have some with fold up legs). The thing that confuses me is the jack situation. I see people say - I believe correctly so - to not just trust the chain and put jacks under the mower in addition to wheel chalks but I don't see how typical jacks work in that scenario because the mower is tilted at a pretty stong angle in that scenario and a jack isn't going to reach I assume.
Can anyone explain to me like I am five how to use jacks in that scenario where you have a chain hoist with the deck up at 45 degree?
Thanks!