u/Peylix

Go with what's called the "reverse bleed" method.

This is feeding the system from the slave instead of bleeding it through the slave. Using pressure to fill and push the air up through the system and out the top res. Allowing the path of least resistance to be utilized to your advantage.

This video explains is easily.

If you have a power bleeder like this. You can use that instead of the oil can in the above video. You'll just need to take one of the adapters off so you can connect to the slave directly. Using a power bleeder makes it even easier as you can build more pressure, thus bleeding faster.

Once that's done, bleed all 4 brakes. Then you're done!

Last week I lost my clutch in the MK5. I feared it was the slave due to where the leaks were coming from. It wasn't until I got the battery, battery tray, and harness out of the way today to get a clear view of my master to see it was the actual cause. Huge rush of relief knowing I didn't need to drop the trans. Got the new master in (was a PITA itself, this car is always a PITA to work on. Even for simpler things...). Then spent hours trying to bleed the clutch.

I came across the above linked method and got the clutch bled right away. So for anyone running into the same issues I was where you're pumping the pedal non stop to no avail. Opt for the reverse bleed method instead.

I hope this can help any others who're pulling their hair out like I was.

Revived my 6MT MK5 GTI. Been doing a few shakedowns with tonight being a good serious shake of the cobwebs. CEL was from a previous logged misfire.

Did a shortened run on HBR for NB with a SB runback in lead with a group. And yes, I popped out of 2nd on the SB runback coming out of that right hand 90. Done it twice in the same spot now. Been years since I've driven this car hard like such, it's a tricky spot lol.

Also was trying out some new settings with my Hero 8 Black to try and improve the low light. Turns out it was worse than my previous settings. So it looks extra shitty (visibility looks low, but these are Bi-Xenons with FTP halogens coded as Aux Highs, I can see plenty fine) .

My headstrap was also out of alignment. So the dash and wheel are not visible. I don't have a sunroof in this car to use for a drop mount. So I'll experiment with new mount solutions.

For the curious, the modlist for Egon (08 FSI 6MT MK5 GTI 2dr) is as follows:

Performance Mods:

* APR Stage 2 ECU tune (91/93/100)

* 92oct Fuel

* BSH Integrated Throttle Pipe

* 3" 42DD Catless Downpipe

* Stock Catback w/ Res delete

* Revision D Diverter Valve

* Revision B Cams

* BSH PCV Plate

* H&R Sport Cup Kit

* H&R 22mm Rear Sway

* Southbend Stage 3 Daily & Lightweight SMF

* 034 Street Density Motor/Transmission Mounts & Subframe Bushings

* Neuspeed Pflow Intake

* Neuspeed Short Shifter

* BFI Heavy Billet Shift Knob

* Stoptech Street 308 Brake Pads

* Stoptech STR-600 Brake Fluid

* Neuspeed RSe12 18x8 +45

* Continental ExtremeContact DWS06+ (235/40/18)

Other mods:

* AWE Vent Boost Gauge

* OEM Euro Rear paint matched w/ dipped lower valance

* OEM Votex sideskirts

* Rep Votex front lip

* Euro Light Switch (w/ Euro coding)

* 6k Xenon heads

* 6k LED projection fog conversion

* 6k Rear license plate LED conversion

* 6k LED interior conversion

* Smoked Helix Urban Style (R look) LED Tail Lights

* Debadged front and rear

* Rear seat / spare tire delete

* Paint matched eyelids

* Sony XAV-AX5000 Headunit

* Euro Dash Tray

* 11% Tint

This car has 210k miles on it. Original bottom end, rebuilt head from 80k ago. Egon has seen some shit. I've owned this car since 2011.

Another romp in a B9 SQ5 (w/ S Sport package) on a fresh set of PSAS4's. Vibing to Lane 8's Spring 2026 Mixtape in the background.

Lot more traffic than usual so I kept it chill in spots.