I had a reddish tint on my top screen. It bugged me cause the colour difference in the two screen. I had a doner with a broken bottom screen, top screen looked nice and neutral.
After replacement there is no change. The screen is still tinted after booted red but this odd thing happens
Upon start up the screen looks great, only after a few moments does screen turns bad and reddish?
Whats the go?
Hoping to purchase an item with potential future business.
Happy to take DMs
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Trying to work out the logistics of a PC build for OBS + multiple USB ports for hardware installed handheld console capture cards and wanted to check if I’m going down the right path.
The goal of the build is:
-Run OBS
-Handle 9 capture cards + 1 webcam
-Output video over HDMI/DisplayPort
-Keep the system as small and affordable as possible
The tricky part is USB bandwidth.
Through testing I’ve found:
-2x Nintendo DS Phats can share a single independent USB controller via a hub
-Each 3DS requires its own independent USB bandwidth/controller
Current setup:
6x DS Phats
3x 3DS consoles
1x webcam
Mouse/keyboard/microphone
So I need at minimum: 6 independent USB ports/controllers for the capture cards Additional USB for peripherals
Current idea/parts list: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/RTBfPf
-AM4 or LGA1700, MATX, DDR4 platform
-CPU with integrated graphics so I can avoid a GPU and free up PCIe lanes/space
-2x StarTech 4-port PCIe USB card(independent bandwidth per port)
-Motherboard USB ports for the remaining devices
The issue is the USB cards alone are around $15O AUD each, and the build is starting to feel expensive for what is basically a dedicated capture/streaming box.
I’m mainly looking for advice from people experienced with SFF builds and USB-heavy setups:
1.Is this the right approach?
2.Is there a cheaper/better way to get multiple independent USB controllers?
3.Are there better value USB cards than the StarTech ones?
Has anyone built something similar?
I’m happy using older hardware if it keeps costs down and still handles OBS reliably.
My question is? This board looks like its has 5.1k ohm resistors on it. Are these most likely connected to CC1 and CC2 under the port yeah? If so and I plug a cable in the VBUS is live?
Gday, ive been learning about USB C and from what I've learnt im hoping to get some confirmation that im getting this right.
I want to use a usb c female plug on a project. This breakout board looks great because I need 5 wires and space is tight (and I don't want to use micro usb cause it's ugly)
Im connecting a modified snes controller, but the internals board is original.
I want to use the USB C as a small multi pin connector and be able to plug it in either way for convenience.
With the help of chatgpt and forums I've gotten this far. I just need to know if im missing something and the VBUS will work when plugged in
VBUS - 5v
GND - GND
D+ - SNES Data
D- - SNES Clock
SBU1 - Latch
SBU2 - SBU1 (bridged for reversible insertion)
CC1 and CC2 - leave as is, no wire, nada
I also understand that this won't work with cheap usb c cable. Full featured, USB 4, thunderbolt cables as a minimum is necessary from the breakout usb c to the snes controller.
Have I fluffed anything? And thank you for your time.