i dont know what about other country, but in Vietnam we have trend that collecting and displaying charger in our house. Just for fun and share with Facebook group like: Charging lover, charging passion… Even we just have 2-3 device but many chargers lol 🤣 Does you guys collect them too?
Hiya
so to start, some context:
I've got a citroen c1, the cigarette lighter style socket is right in an annoying place and there is only one. It's currently taken up by my dash cam. I used to have a cup style thing like the picture.
However, I bought that a good 3 or 4 years ago, when I still used standard usb for many things, and it recently went with a satisfactory "pop" and no longer works.
I was considering just buying a new one, but I don't really use USB anymore, everything is C, and the cup charger was really really damn slow.
So since that's my situation, and I am not opposed to cutting holes in my car, I was thinking that instead of spending 15 quid on a new cup one, I would instead fit a panel mounted usb socket. With C.
I stumbled across this first:
Lots of reviews, happy days. Except the wattage isn't great, and it has this silly unnecessary light on it.
So I kept looking around amazon, because it's easy to look around, and found this
It has a high wattage usb socket (way higher than I need, I'd only ever be charging my phone but in my mind, the headroom is probably a good thing)
It has a standard USB socket, just in case as some of my mates still use them.
No stupid lights on it or anything like that.
But it's got 1 review. And this is my first time hearing about the company.
I was going to just buy it and see what happens, but then I remembered I could ask around online so, what are your thoughts? Is acegoo a big company? Is there a better alternative company with similar products? I'm completely in the dark really and Googling tends to come up with not what I'm looking for, so if yall have any idea, any information is useful
And finally, I know I could just get a higher wattage cigarette lighter adaptor but the standard socket is in an annoying ass place in my opinion, I would honestly quite like to just do the little project. And the radio and cigarette lighter share the same 10 amp fuse. And I'm aware that my radio is going to be drawing about 80 on full volume, since I have made upgrades to that, so I didn't wanna put too much on the circuit.
My plan is basically to buy something like the links, cut out 2 hole, fit it and a switch, ground to body, live to battery (with a fuse). But I do need the guidance on what to actually buy.
Cheers all
I'm considering buying a new Windows laptop that has fewer USB-A ports than my current one. I have multiple Seagate external hard drives - including One Touch and Expansion models—ranging from 2TB to 5TB. They all use traditional USB-A cables, so I'm thinking about connecting one or more of them to a USB-C port using a quality USB-C to USB-A adapter (such as one from Anker).
For those of you who use Seagate external drives this way on Windows:
* Have you had any issues with the drives not being recognized or disconnecting when connected through a USB-C adapter?
* Have you noticed any difference in read/write or file transfer speeds compared to plugging the drive directly into a USB-A port?
* Have you used this setup long-term for drives that stay connected most of the time (such as for a Plex Media Server)?
I'm mainly interested in real-world experiences. Reliability is more important to me than theoretical maximum speeds.
Thanks!
I'd like to use a USB-C breakout board like the one pictured to handle 24v power to a fan, power a 100w ceramic heater and the PT1000 thermistor signal to the main board. This won't actually be a true USB connection, I just want to use the interface. The other end of the cable will have three separate JST connections to go to various pins on the main board. Is this possible? If not is there a better choice?
Just looking to get a few extra cables to charge only at 100w, what’s the best bang for my buck in the 1m and 2m category? Hoping to be under $5 per cable.
Can someone explain to me why usb and usb c flash drives are SO expensive since January of this year??? I bought a Samsung usb c 256gb last summer for $27…. But then I returned it and now am kicking myself. Back then the usb c for Samsung was no more than like $40 when it wasn’t on sale. Also, the Sandisk usb c 256gb was $19 in December and I also was stupid and forgot to buy it before the sale ended. I’ve been watching both products since January almost everyday and am flabbergasted that the prices went up and up to the point that the Samsung flash drives I’m talking about that was $27 on sale is never on sale now and cost $70!!!!!! All year it’s been $70! And the Sandisk one I’m talking about has been $45 on sale and $50 all year!!! I’m so confused…..wtf is going on with the flash drives for these two companies lol. This year, I bought a desktop hard drive 8tb for cheaper than these little usb flash drives have been all year. I’ve never seen them have such astronomical pricing!
First charger I'm seeing this high from a known brand...
OKAY. So I have a macbook pro m1 13 inch and I have two monitors. One is set up vertically and the other is set up horizontally. I've tried having two docks with 1 monitor connected each separately connected to my macbook m1 and only one monitor seems to be working. According to apple's website looks like my device can only handle one external display. I looked it up online and found a connector that is supposedly able to connect two monitors to my macbook 1. Bought it and it works! Except, I cannot rotate one of the display outputs. (Ps. It uses UDisplay software.) Now, I don't wanna go wasting money I don't have anymore so can you recommend a solution to this or a connector I can purchase that'll serve the purpose I intend for it?
These 2 resistors are connecting 2 pins to ground. Is it likely these are configuration channels (CC1 and CC2)?
"A73E-For PCB Welding Type-C Socket Charging Port 5PCS C Female Adapter 5PIN SMD SMT Type-C Jack For DIY"
Ugreen has started labeling their newer cables. I have a few that are just before that. They are excellent cables but they vary in ratings. I went looking for something like shrinkwrap that has USBC standards printed on it that I could use, but sadly and surprisingly that doesn't seem to exist in a premade format. Any suggestions on something similar that doesn't leave a cable flag flopping around?
Hey guys, I just bought some new JBL headphones with a USB-C cable to use on a flight. I later realized that it’s not that easy and, as far as I understand, technically not that simple to find a working USB-C to headphone jack adapter. Anyway, I was wondering if there might be another solution. Some planes already have USB-C ports, but I’m not sure if they actually work with headphones. Would it maybe work to use a USB-A adapter instead? Thanks for your help 🤗
I am going crazy.
I have a gaming laptop that I had working with 2 external monitors. 1 with HDMI to HDMI and the other with USBC to HDMI. It was working totally fine and now has just stopped. Windows is no longer recognizing that as a video input(it doesn’t make the noise when I plug it in.
Here’s the thing.
It’s not the cord. My phone and my gfs PC both connect with that cord no issues.
It’s not the port. The usbc still charges my phone and has power.
It’s not the monitors, they both work.
Please help
Hello guys, I have been using a 3.5 mm to USB-C adapter from OnePlus to use with my OnePlus smartphones for years. I never had any complaints with it other than the fact that the wire connecting the two ends have started to peel and the whole thing is now held together with electrical tape.
I was looking into buying a new third party adapter with a braided cable for durability but discovered that there is more to these adapters than what I had initially assumed. All of these adapters contain an internal DAC chip to convert digital audio coming from the phone into analog signals for the earphones to play off of and also ADC for mic functionality.
The quality of audio in and out depends on the specifications of this DAC chip being used and dirt-cheap adapters often use poor DACs. From the limited research I did, I guess a higher bits and sampling frequency is preferable but I am not sure which adapter or which DAC chip to look out for.
Any advice/suggestion for a good 3.5 mm to USB-C adapter will be highly appreciated, thanks!
Hey everyone, I’m running into a frustrating USB-PD handshake issue between an Anker charger and a Ugreen power bank and could use some help debugging the exact protocol clash.
The Hardware:
The Problem: The Anker Prime refuses to charge the Ugreen power bank at its max 65W. The charger successfully opens the 20V rail, but the current gets severely throttled.
It is because of Anker's PowerIQ and ugreen battery bms?
Is that okey to use the android charger for charging iPhones. Most of the people say using android charger will kill the battery of iPhone . So what is the point of adding usb c in iPhones . Is that only for proceeding the law .
Hi everyone,
I'm looking for a wall charger (adapter) for traveling.
I was considering the SlimQ 150W 4-Port USB-C GaN Charger (travel set), but I think the brand had some issues where some of the adapters got "stuck" to the charger...
The other alternative is an Anker Nano Travel Adapter + an Anker charger (with 3 USB-C ports), or the UGREEN Uno Charger 100W.
The idea is for it to support dual voltage so I don't run into any power issues with my electronics (which are just a few: a laptop, a cell phone, and headphones).
What do you all recommend?
5,000mAh
15W wireless Qi2
20W USB-C charging
I want to buy a USB-C to 12 volt cigarette lighter adapter.
I see a number of them on Amazon.
I want it to provide 12 volts at 3 amps.
Are some better than others?
This just happens to be one that I found at Amazon.
Would it be decent or should I look at something else?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F6BJYQP5/ref=twister_B0F6D1B692?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
Bought a 160w ugreen charger off Amazon for $49.99USD as an alternative to a 140w apple charger, so I can charge more than 1 device at the same time.
I'm keeping the extra charger for the extension cord
Hi!
long story short - my beloved soundcard got faulty USB C port. Tried different cables, even expensive brand new one. Didnt help.
The issue is the cable needs to be pressed down a bit. Any little bang to the table and it disconnects data from the card - power stays on.
Any idea on how to fix this? Could it be a faulty solder points? I can fix those.