u/RockFish45

I want to get something that will work on a .22 ruger mark 4 and also on a rifle. My buddy has one on his mark 4, and I tried it on my rifle and it barely made a difference. I dont know alot about supressors but I imagine size is everything. I assume some work great on pistols because the shorter barrel equals less velocity, and when I put that supressor on my rife it didn't work because the rifles longer barrel give the bullet higher velocity so the rifle would need a larger supressor. Is that right? Can anyone point me in the right direction as to where to shop, and what to look for. Ive been looking but there are so many in so many different price ranges, I dont care how cool it looks I just want it to work well and not be HUGE, and of course the cheaper the better.

Working for a small contract engine company. Seems i am lucky to be out because I hear about many oregon contractors sitting at home while they are using many resources from out of state. I hear calfire is very busy in oregon this year.

Does anyone know if these out of state resources are agencies only? Or are they calling contractors from out of state? Is the gov trying to phase out contractors in this industry? Have the govs preferences changed recently, such as size of company, age of equipment, company appearance, etc....?

The company im signed up with is short on engine bosses, and overhired, I'm not confident they'll have work for me. Are there any contractors out there still hiring? Ive got a red card, bag packed and ready to go.

1986 chevy g30 high cube loaded to 10,000lbs. Ive been overheating on the highway lately. It seems like if i keep it slow speeds its fine, stays around 195, I have a 180 thermostat. but as soon as I hit high speeds it heats up to 210+ and won't come back down even if i slow down, it will just keep getting hotter after that, 220... 230.... till I shut it down, heat soak up to 250 the other day on a big ass hill

I can't figure out why. My coolant is clean and full. Its hot, I'm in las vegas, its been 90+ it could just be the heat. My crazy theory is that I'm having vapor lock while I'm driving, causing super lean, so once it hits a temp and boils, it just gets hotter from there. When its 220+ it pull over and I see gas boiling in the filter after i stop, creates backpressure on pump and stops the flow. Otherwise, fuel pressure seems good, i can see the line throbbing. Can't find a phenolic spacer, I'm on a road trip, no mail... if you have one in vegas hit me up.

But even with the fuel possibly boiling while running, it runs fine, never stalls. So I'm not sure

Ive been messing around with this for the last few days, cold air intake, insulating fuel line. Richening mixture, retarding timing to 8° initial 28 total, previously was running 34 total. Nothing has made a difference.

With radiator cap off, coolant seems to be flowing good, but could it be lazy at high speed? I took the belt off the water pump and I can spin it very freely, I would expect more resistance.

Do yall see any red flags here. Or is my problem just the ambient temp?

Whats your go to for comfortable boots. Currently wearing my grandpa's old logging corks that I had rubber soles put on. They are high quality old boots, but their old, and I'm not sure they could last a big season, and they give me bad blisters on the tops of my feet after just a couple days hiking even wearing 2 pairs of socks. I wanna get another pair, id like something that is just super comfy, dont need anything luxurious, just something that will work really well and save my feet.