Hey, I'm hoping to gauge interest in these items and see if anyone here can identify the badges that aren't Decca/Cossor.
I am looking to sell to add growing electronic tool collection. (Decent bench power supply is my next upgrade!) Do you think it's worth my time trying to sell?
Hi everyone,
I'm looking for help troubleshooting a Sony Color Watchman FDL-380 that I recently bought on eBay. The seller described it as "working", but I don't know its actual history or whether anything has been repaired or drifted out of calibration over the years.
I'm trying to display video wirelessly using a TV-TX200 analog TV transmitter.
My setup:
• Sony Color Watchman FDL-380 (US model)
• TV-TX200 analog RF transmitter
• MacBook Pro connected via a high quality USB-C to HDMI cable
• HDMI selected on the transmitter
• Telescopic antenna fully extended
• 9V third-party power supply (AliExpress, interchangeable tips, using both F and G plugs, both fit naturally and power the Watchman correctly)
Things I've already tried:
• VHF and UHF modes
• Multiple RF frequencies
• NTSC (N) and PAL (P)
• SIF values from 4.5 MHz to 6.5 MHz
• Output power from 0.5W up to higher levels
• Different Mac resolutions and refresh rates (50 Hz and 60 Hz)
• Mirror mode and extended display
• Power cycling both devices many times
What happens:
• The Watchman definitely reacts when the transmitter is turned on.
• Static changes immediately when I power the transmitter on/off.
• When I move windows or play a YouTube video on the MacBook, the pattern on the Watchman changes in real time.
• Several times I briefly saw distorted parts of my desktop or blurry colorful frames from the YouTube video, so some kind of video information is definitely getting through.
• However, it never locks into a stable picture.
One thing that really confuses me:
The green tuning indicator never stays on a single TV channel. It keeps moving ("hunting") by itself, even after I only press the Channel + or Channel - button once.
I also can't figure out what the CH CALL button is actually supposed to do.
I spent hours reading the official Sony service manual together with ChatGPT and experimenting with every setting I could think of, but I still can't understand why the tuner never locks.
My electronics knowledge is fairly basic. I'm comfortable with software and troubleshooting, but I don't have experience repairing RF circuits, replacing capacitors, doing alignments, or soldering.
Does this behavior sound more like:
• incorrect RF modulation/settings,
• an alignment problem inside the Watchman,
• an issue with the TV-TX200 transmitter,
• or a common characteristic of the FDL-380 that I'm missing?
I'll attach photos showing:
• the transmitter settings,
• the Watchman,
• and examples of the distorted image I'm getting.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I recently thrifted this KORG Triton LE 61 key workstation, I wasn't able to test it in the store, and when I brought it home to open it up, it was full of dead bugs. I'm an amateur when it comes to repairing electronics, especially synths. It didn't turn on at all when I tried to test it. I just want to know whether it's worth trying to clean and fix, and if I'll even be able to at all. I wasn't able to discern any glaring issues by myself (Apart from the dead bugs..)
If anyone could offer any tips on how to clean it, and what I should do to determine the problem, it would be greatly appreciated. Please take into account I am very new to electronics so I don't have much repair knowledge under my belt.
I inherited a rather significant amount of random parts in boxes and bags.
The photo is just an example of some of the stuff.
What is the best way to catalogue and inventory a mess of components like this?
This is part of the Fat Man's "X-unit." What is the circled symbol on the right side of the lower diagram?
EDIT: Solved. And boy, do I feel stupid.
I’m restoring an old record console and can’t find schematics for it. Does anyone recognize these tiny blue electrolytic capacitors with a pink dot on them? One has clearly leaked so I’m trying to replace them.
Hi all, I picked up a Panasonic RQ-542S FM/AM Radio Cassette Recorder at a thrift store for $40 and I'm trying to get it working. The unit is completely dead; no response at all from batteries or AC power cord. I cleaned corroded battery terminals with baking soda and isopropyl alcohol, tried 4 fresh D batteries, and also tried a new IEC C7 figure-8 AC cord plugged into the wall. Nothing. I opened it up and the boards look intact with no obvious burn marks. I can see the transformer and power supply area but I don't have a multimeter so I can't test anything. I can't locate the fuse. I'm attaching photos of the interior. Any idea where the fuse is located on this model, or what else could cause complete failure? I'd love to save this one if possible!
Can't locate my TI84 calculator to play with this. Any takers? I think it is super cool.
Found two of those.
edit: not sure if this is the correct sub. if not I apologize!
So I ended up getting a couple of old cameras, not super old I think but they’re all film based and not digital (I think) I’m no camera expert so any help on these models plus whatever is in the second image would be greatly appreciated!
Several color pages, mostly B&W
This is a Promin Pn-3 gen 1 Night vision surveillance device i got it off ebay and i’ve decide i want to know how this works. The night vision tube is of the EP33 family i believe(i have its smaller cousin). In order to power these i know it needs crazy voltage, i don’t know how much or how quickly. I’m just going to make a list of my questions, its easier.
1. What image intensifier tube model does the PN-3 use?
2. What voltages does the PN-3 inverter output to the tube?
3. Does the PN-3 use a single HV output or multiple tube voltages?
4. Is the rubber-boot connection on the PN-3 the tube’s high-voltage anode connection?
5. Can the PN-3 inverter safely drive an EP33 image intensifier tube?
6. Has anyone successfully powered an EP33 using a PN-3 power supply?
7. Does the EP33 require the same voltage and polarity as the PN-3 tube?
8. Can the PN-3 inverter be tested unloaded without damage?
9. What measurements should I take with a multimeter before attempting a tube swap?
10. Is there a schematic or pinout available for the PN-3 power supply?
11. What are the functions of the major components on the PCB (transformer, coils, capacitors, etc.)?
I’m adding a comparison photo of a confirmed EP33 i do have for reference. Also i’m not experienced with these type of electronics i just know names and am still new to the general idea of this type of stuff
About 300W of power, I fully serviced it (cleaned all plastic parts in the shower, lubricated the motor). Still works fine! Thinking of taking it with me while traveling
I am trying to get it to work but nothing seems to be functioning. I am an electrician but I rarely dive into electronics and especially something so old. Any troubleshooting tips would be great. The dream would be to replace only the amp so I can add bluetooth and be able to use the speakers for my tv as well, with keeping the factory tuner and turntable. Is any of that possible. I would also enjoy it factory. I have the schematic diagrams if anyone would like to help. I am unable to upload the file to reddit though.
Hey everyone. Was just curious about this. It looks like this has an AV in. Tried hooking it up to an NES which does work. No dice. Just curious if this is even possible. Would be hilarious to play old games on it. Or even hook a dvd player up.
Thought this subreddit might find it interesting