u/Rpsalty2

I'm on the sideline, plus non-functional since day three.

My career was as a navigation officer on merchant chemical/ product carriers. I've used a lot of GPS. No less than three on every bridge, at least since the Valdez, that changed everything.

Never are any two, let alone three GPS, all indicating exactly the same position. Granted, I'm talking 100th of an NM. That's a few feet.

Satellites are in a geosynchronous orbit. There are several checksums that are considered by GPS antennas, which, by the way, is where the GPS is located. It's not in the fancy display on the bridge console. Based on the checksums, the GPS determines if the data is valid and / or accurate. Recognizing that "marine and USCG approved" doubles or triples the price, a quality GPS antenna costs as much as a one plus.

Having said all that, the sun had a pretty big flare recently, hence spectacular northern lights tonight. These sun flares, when they reach the earth, mess with stuff. Not just GPS reception and accuracy, but also radio waves. Like the communication between the RTK, base, and mower.

It's not likely that Lymow equipment is capable of interpreting and ignoring bad data. I'm not dissing Lymow. You can see the effect sometimes in your car navigation.

So, a new update, solar flares, and inaccuracies. I would not put the blame entirely on Lymow. Some have no problem, some do, location, location, location.

Something else to add to the equation.

With the activation of HomeLink, I was hoping for “computer, open gate”. We all know now that is not the case. For me, driving down the road, trying to get my finger to touch that narrow invisible bar is distracting from safe driving. Perhaps redesign that screen with large icons to touch. Beating you to the punch, yes, I could wait until I pull into the driveway to press the screen.

I have a gate and a garage to open. The garage has a Liftmaster opener that uses myQ. Very proprietary and secure. Using IFTTT I can get the garage door to close via a voice command. However, I discovered that IFTTT uses Google Home to activate myQ and doesn’t use HomeLink at all. In other words, I can close the garage door from anywhere. myQ will not allow opening via IFTTT.

The gate also uses a liftmaster type receiver and there isn’t an IFTTT applet for it. The gate opener has several methods for activation, one being a hard-wired switch. Amazon sells a WiFi controlled switch, about $13 for a single channel and $18 for two channels. Hook up the WiFi switch in parallel to the hard-wired switch, link the switch to “works with google” and like magic the voice command “open gate” works. That’s because Google in the car is connected to Google Home, as long as it’s all the same account. If you have Google Home automation, you can control your home from your car.

The garage opener does not have the option of a hardwired switch. The wires running to the wall switch are power. The wall switch is essentially a remote that has power not a battery. There is a YouTube video that demonstrates how to use the contacts inside the wall switch or any remote for that matter.

Two channel WiFi switch to operate both the gate and garage.

I know these have been discussed but I couldn't find it.

I paid for ultra, twin motor performance because I wanted to pull a utility trailer. The EX90 replaced a pickup truck. I don't pull it often, but when I do, I don't want to get stuck in wet grass, like my pickup would do pulling the trailer around the yard. I was also aware the front and rear tires are different sizes, so no rotating to take care of the tires. And the tires are expensive.

I feel, traction for acceleration and braking is best distributed to four surfaces rather than two. This may extend the wear on the tires and would certainly be less stress on two motor/generators than one. I see no difference viewing instant consumption when I switch back and forth between standard and performance. One pedal when stopping is surely less wear on two motors and four tires than on one motor two tires. A number hard to pinpoint is regen, it kind of seems I get more regen in performance than standard.

I have nothing to go on but gut. Hopefully, someone with more technical knowledge can weigh in with statistics. When I owned a 442, that big block practically idled through the gears. To me, two motors propelling forward at less strain is better than having one motor do all the work. But then I am using more kWh to run two motors, but only at half the work.

When using standard, am I front wheel or rear wheel drive? When in performance, is cornering tire wear increased? Is there limited slip between the two front and two rear tires?

My battery is labeled Li-Ion. The manual states the battery is LiFePO4. On the Lymow website, accessories, the replacement battery for the Lymow One states LiFePO4. The replacement battery for the Lymow One Plus states battery, doesn't specify technology.

I did not notice the battery detail when I ordered. All the advertisement indicated LiFePO4, but when ordering, the Lymow One was no longer available and the Lymow One Plus was ready to ship. It was also the only choice.

Has the battery been downgraded? LiFEPO4 are pricey and different from Li-Ion.

I am on the sidelines; my Plus will not boot.

1. I've read that users who have received replacement mowers cannot import backed up zones. What about users that perform a factory reset on a mower that experiences software issues?
2. After a factory reset, will the software revert to the version it was shipped with or do updates get written to wherever the factory default is located?
3. Moving the RTK. I'm wondering if moving the RTK, after the initial setup, confuses the software. After moving the RTK around for optimal performance, would a factory reset clear out any confused bits and bytes (you know, like the Windows Registry)?
4. Has anyone, who never moved the RTK after the initial setup, have software issues? This may require a poll to determine.
5. In my yard ornament post, I received many helpful replies. Is there a secret sequence of button pushing, battery disconnecting, or special chant and dance to wake up the computer? Just about every piece of technology I have has a back door, so to speak, to reinitialize the device. I hear an audible click after the power button is held for 3 seconds.