Hi Lymow Team,

I accidentally entered the wrong shipping address for my order. I have already sent an email to support@lymow.com, but I wanted to post here to make sure it gets intercepted before shipping. Could a moderator please DM me so I can securely provide my order number and the correct address? Thank you!

I looked at the 4 deck bolts using my Endoscope without dismantling ( just the top cover was removed) and verified that all 4 bolts have blue loctite thread locker. This after 30 days of mowing, I'll check again in another 30 days to see if anything has changed. Too many users have had problems with these bolts backing out.

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It's been 6 months (120 mow hours) since my Lymow One arrived so I thought I might do a review of my experience with it, especially since a lot of reviews on robot mowers seem to be from influencers that have them sent to them by the company for a week before it's sent back for the next reviewer. It's probably a little irrelevant since the One is no longer sold, but here's my experience anyway.

My property is 2000 sq m and when I first moved in a couple years ago I knew I didn't want to spend money getting a ride on mower when my ultimate goal was to get a robot mower but at that time, there really wasn't anything that I felt would suit the property as it's a new build house sitting in what was previously a sheep paddock that has undulations, stones/rocks and scraggly grass and weeds - landscaping is a work in progress still. I also wanted a mower that would still be able to handle the mow if its schedule had to be skipped because of the weather, so I didn't want a mower with razer blades. While I waited for that robot to hit the market I hired a contractor to take care of it. A year in I started getting targeted advertising for the Lymow kickstarter on the social media platforms and while it looked exactly like what I was looking for, I'm dubious of kickstarters so figured I'd wait and see if it made it out. When it did a year later, I ordered late October 2025 and it arrived early Jan 2026, in the middle of the summer here in New Zealand

I guess I ended up ordering at the right time as my One came after they made the change to spot welding the wheel hubs to prevent the hub separating like I had seen with the early versions on the groups while I waited for mine. There were probably a few other improvements that my later build had that the earlier buyers had helped resolve, which I'm thankful for.

Summer this year was rather wet and mild which meant the grass was growing very fast, so it kinda showed up at the right time as the contractors fortnightly schedule just wasn't keeping up. I was sending it out twice a week to keep up with the growth and I was very impressed with its capability. There were also times where it was wet for an entire week and by the time it was dry enough to mow, the grass was double the height I would otherwise mow it at but it lived up to my expectations I previously mentioned and handled it without issue. Exceeding my expectations kind of sums up my experience with the One. Every time I've sent it out to mow, it has done so and I haven't had to go out and help it, rescue it or really think about it while it's mowing but I do find myself getting stuck at the window watching it. Over the summer and autumn it also turned my scraggly lawn into looking somewhat respectable (as long as you don't look too closely and notice the weeds).

When it comes to navigation, I'll admit, my property is super easy for an RTK mower as it's a new development so there's no established tree cover and all the houses are single level with big open areas between them. So I've never had navigation issues, its accuracy has always been .01m. I've never had issues with it being weird after updates either, even though I've never bothered to unplug the battery for a period after an update.

The caveat to that is that the One's Achilles heal is that the charging contacts are on the bottom. My lawn seems to be particularly juicy during the summer months (even though it's dry to the touch) and all that juice would dry onto the contacts, so I would have to go out and clean them every other charge. Lymow did send me some brushes but I never bothered to install them as they're unable to get the dried juice off - only a wet rag would work. Modifying the charging contacts to be top mounted was tempting but I didn't want to create warranty issues if I ever needed to fall back on that. Thankfully, the 3D printed sliding contacts that Denis Picard designed have worked very well and since I installed them in April I have not had to clean the contacts once. Solving the charging contact issue transformed my One into a fully hands off robot mower and I can now honestly say I have zero involvement. It's now everything I wanted from a robot mower and Lymow should take notice of this solution and provide an official version, with compensation of some kind for Denis.

The other improvements I'd like to see are mostly software related. The big one would be perimeter logic. While it's doing a perimeter run, if the bumper is triggered it will swing outward away from the permitter, travel forward and then swing in hard and usually tap against the fence again, repeating the process. I think this could be mostly fixed if the ultrasonics were being used so it would better be able to follow a fence line while avoiding the posts. Smart detection also needs improving so that it doesn't detect long grass/weeds as obstacles to avoid. Low priority for me would be adjusting the way it gets back to an area it thinks it missed as it is a little funny that it makes those really nice lines but then ruins them by traversing across them to get to a small slither it missed at the other end of the zone.

It is still a mower so there is some hands on maintenance involved with cleaning it but I'm not overly obsessive about that. Every now and then I'll use a car trim pry tool and pry off the dried on grass from the deck but I'm not restoring it to factory conditions each time. Sometimes I'll use a wet dish brush and a low pressure hose during the juicy months but I think anything more is over the top. I also solved the issue of grass build up on the track wheels by 3D printing a basic wheel scraper which has worked so well that I haven't had to clean them since. I also haven't treated it to any kind of enclosure yet so it sits outside against the north wall of my house so it's generally protected from direct rain as that generally blows in from the south. NZ winters are pretty mild, even here in the south so it rarely gets below 0 over night and never during the day so I haven't brought it inside for the winter, mostly because the grass still grows here over the winter and it's still mowing every other week.

When it comes to the question of whether I would recommend a Lymow, if we're talking about the One, absolutely. It's exceeded my expectations and genuinely saved me time and eventually, money. Its capabilities and results have been noticed and regularly commented on by my neighbours. However, Lymow no longer sells the One and at the moment with the Plus and its various deck issues (mostly the over heating motor controller and loosening deck bolts) that becomes tricker. The summer sun here in the Southern Hemisphere is more intense than the Northern Hemisphere so the Plus in the summer here will be rough. I would expect the Plus to get a mid-cycle revision like the One had to resolve these hardware issues but I would want to wait until that solution has been implemented. I do believe in Lymow, I know they can get a product to market that works great and is better than the other available options but they just need to take more time with the future models to have them at that stage for launch.

hey guys , so my lymow is broken the left side track is not working . any suggestions?

For the second time now, my L1 failed to get to the dock. This time, it managed to drive 80 m (260 ft), when the battery dropped from 15% to 0%. The last time, it dropped from 35% to 0%.

Does the mover learn and adapt to the discharge curve of the battery? My L1 is still kind of new and hasn't mowed much. Or is my battery crap and the voltage drops below the limit under stress (acceleration) when the charge is low, so that the BMS does an emergency cut off?

Have been mowing most of this year with the Lymow, not without issue but still satisfied. I guess I've been somewhat cautious about saying that, but the real indicator is that I kept the box it came in just in case. Do I need to keep this box anymore? Feels like tossing it officially cements long term ownership.

I'm far closer to 80 than 70, firmly entrenched in gezzerdom. Due to mowing slowly approaching the point of being a task I'm no longer able to do, I'm researching alternatives. My son gave me the idea of a robot mower so I started researching them. My property is 1 acre, fairly flat but pretty rough. I like the Lymow idea of using conventional style blades. I like the idea of being able to open the side chute to eject the clippings. I like the "set it and forget it" theory. Reading the reviews on Amazon and other places gives me pause. There are a LOT of 1 star ratings, most about the lack of support when something does go wrong. At my age and physical abilities, that is a major concern. My concerns about the operation of the mower are several fold. First is avoiding running over small animals. We have several box turtles that frequent our property. We have a few mature turtles (about 6" shell size) and often see juvenile turtles much smaller. Every review video I've seen show things like bike helmets and soccer balls being avoided. Those are of no help to me. Can the mower be trained to recognize and not slaughter small box turtles & other small animals like garden snakes? Second, a lot of folks have trouble with the RTK system and their mowers going off course. I have no idea how many of those issues are from improper set-up by the user as opposed to unit defect (the main reason I'm concerned about the reported lack of support). I have a section of property where the mower would likely be out of direct line-of-sight of the RTK unit for over the 10 minute window. What would be the fix for that? A have a 30' breakover TV antenna that would alleviate most of the line-of-sight issues if the RTK unit was mounted to the top. The antenna sways in the wind a lot so I'm assuming that would not be a good option?? Ideas? Comments?

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Does anyone have a complete description of all the Service Mode items and what they do? So far, I've only explored 07 - Motion Cntl, where I was able to test the SmartLift actuator after fixing it.

I don't recall or have a record of ordering this stuff but several weeks after receiving my mower I got a package with a backpack, a tote bag, and a dad hat. Since when? What?

P.s. it smells terrible, cheap plastic petrochem off gassing from the depths of hell.

Crossposted with permission:

Don't Map the Maximum Possible Yard - Nick Carter primer

TL;DR: When mapping your yard, the instinct is to trace every boundary as close to the edge as possible. Don't. The map you create on a perfect afternoon has to work on every session, in every condition, forever. One mistake can mean the end of your mower or your fancy landscaping. Leave margin near anything dangerous, keep channels wider than the mower needs to physically fit, size no-go zones larger than the objects they protect, and treat your first map as a draft. The goal is not the biggest possible map. It’s the most repeatable one.

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One of the most common mapping mistakes with RTK mowers is trying to map the maximum possible yard instead of the reliable operating area. Those aren’t the same thing. The mower may physically fit along a fence, beside a ditch, around a pond, under a tree line, or through a narrow side yard, but that doesn’t mean it should be mapped there as a normal mowing boundary. A good map is not a property survey. It’s an operating envelope the mower can execute safely and repeatedly under real mowing conditions.

During mapping, owners tend to walk the mower exactly where they want the cut edge to be. That seems reasonable, but it assumes the mower will always drive that same line with the same heading, traction, RTK quality, satellite geometry, and recovery behavior. In practice, mowing is different from mapping. During mowing, the mower is turning, correcting its heading, reacting to grass resistance, dealing with slope and track slip, avoiding obstacles, and sometimes recovering from momentary positioning changes. A boundary that looked fine during a careful mapping walk can become too tight during actual operation.

The map is also not a one-time snapshot. It’s a geometric model the mower tries to match against its positioning on every session, in every condition, indefinitely. Think of it like parallel parking. You can squeeze into a spot that is technically just big enough, but only if everything goes right: the angle, the speed, the steering correction, and the distance from the curb. Do it once on a quiet Sunday and it feels fine.

Do it every day in traffic, in rain, with cars honking behind you, and eventually you clip a bumper. The spot wasn't actually big enough for real-world use under all conditions. It was only big enough for ideal conditions.

A mower boundary works the same way. The boundary you walked on a clear afternoon in spring with strong satellite geometry and ideal conditions has to work on a midsummer morning after the canopy fills in, when multipath increases near the fence line, when the mower drops into a temporary Float fix, when the grass is wet and the tracks slip on a slight slope.

Those are the conditions that determine whether your map was actually big enough. Map with extra room and it doesn't matter if one session is harder than another. Map to the absolute physical limit and sooner or later a bad day puts the mower on the wrong side of it.

This matters most near things the mower cannot safely contact or cross. Fences, walls, rocks, landscape edging, drop-offs, roads, water, patios, pool areas, and steep banks all need margin. Trees and buildings need margin too, not because the mower cannot physically drive there, but because those are exactly the places where RTK quality and heading stability are most likely to degrade.

I recently had a unit go out of bounds near a pond when the LoRa signal was blocked by a parked car. The diagnostic screen looked fine afterward, but that wasn’t the real lesson. The real lesson was that had I mapped the boundary too close to the edge of the pond, it would have been a bad outcome.

However, my boundary with several extra feet of margin on the water side made the outcome harmless regardless of what the positioning was doing at that moment. Clear the error. Push “Resume”. Life goes on. A flood levee one inch below flooding level is not a safe levee. The margin is what protects you.

And don’t expect VSLAM to save a bad boundary. Vision/VSLAM can give the mower local visual awareness, but it’s not a substitute for a well-placed zone. It may help the mower understand its immediate surroundings, recognize certain obstacles, or maintain better local behavior, but the stored map is still the operating plan.

If you map too close to a swimming pool, pond, ditch, road, wall, or drop-off, don’t assume the vision system will recognize the danger early enough, interpret it correctly, and override the path every time. That matters because vision has limits. Low light, dusk, shadows, glare, dirty lenses, wet grass, repetitive open turf, tall grass, and poor visual contrast can all reduce how useful the camera-based system is.

VSLAM is helpful, but it is not a license to draw aggressive boundaries near places where the mower has no room to be wrong. Map the boundary as though the mower needs to be safe on the map alone, then treat VSLAM as an additional safety layer, not the thing that makes a risky map acceptable.

Channels deserve the same thinking. A channel the mower can barely thread physically is not a channel it can navigate reliably. Imagine trying to drive a full-size truck through a parking garage with tight turns built for compact cars. You could probably do it once, slowly, with someone spotting you. You can’t do it every day, in every lighting condition, with someone in the passenger seat blocking your view out the side window, at normal speed, without eventually hitting something.

A channel should be treated like a road, not a tightrope. The mower needs room for heading correction, track slip on wet grass, obstacle response, and the occasional moment where positioning is a little soft and it comes through slightly off-center. If the only way the mower can pass is by being perfect every time, the channel is too narrow or in the wrong place.

No-go zones follow the same logic. A no-go zone is not a physical wall. It’s a software boundary around a real object, and the mower still has a body, tracks, blade deck, turning radius, and positioning uncertainty.

Tracing a no-go zone right to the edge of a pond or fire pit is like building a road with no shoulder and no guardrail. It may work while everything is perfect, but it gives your car no room to recover when conditions aren’t perfect. Don't trace a row full of fancy flowers, a fire pit, a pond edge, a pool, or a rock border as tightly as possible. Give the object enough margin that the mower can make normal corrections without clipping it or repeatedly fighting the boundary.

Tree lines are also worth a specific note. Owners often use them as natural precision boundaries because the line is obvious. The problem is that tree lines create some of the worst possible conditions for navigating near a tight boundary. Canopy changes satellite geometry between seasons. Wet leaves scatter signal differently than dry ones.

A tree line boundary in spring is like a road that gets narrower every week through summer without anyone telling you. A boundary that tracks cleanly in late winter when the trees are bare can produce regular out-of-bounds events in midsummer when the canopy is full. If you include tree-line edges in your map at all, pull the boundary well inside the tree line rather than tracing right up to the edge of the canopy.

The better approach is to make the first map conservative. Map the areas where the mower can mow reliably, not every inch you hope it might reach. Watch several mowing sessions before tightening edges or adding more complicated sections. If the mower consistently handles an area with clean positioning, clean turns, and no recovery behavior, you can refine the map later. If it hesitates, waggles, drifts, loses RTK quality, or fights for traction, don't ignore that and just map closer to the edge.

The practical test for any boundary is simple. Ask yourself what happens if the mower thinks it’s a foot further inside the map than it actually is. If the answer is “nothing”, the boundary is in the right place. If the answer is the mower hits the fence, drops off the edge, goes into the water, or drives into the road, pull it in until the answer becomes “nothing”.

The goal is not the biggest possible map. It’s the most repeatable map. Leave safe margin where the consequences are high, keep channels generous, avoid precision boundaries in marginal RTK areas, and treat the first map as a draft rather than a final product. An RTK mower does its best work when the map gives it room to be a real mower operating in a real yard, not a survey instrument tracing a perfect property line.

It keeps going around mowing just the perimeter.

Crossposted with permission:

Extra uses for Split and Merge

One of the things I've been playing around with in the beta software is using the new Zone Split and Merge functions in ways they weren't necessarily intended.

The app still doesn't have a true 'Draw an Area' function where you can just define a custom zone to mow on demand. But I've found a workable workaround using Split and Merge together. Now that it's been officially released, I thought I'd let others know about it.

Here's how it works:

If you want to mow just a specific portion of a larger zone, use Zone Split to divide the existing zone around the area you want to target. The Split function creates straight boundary lines, which is actually useful here. Mow the newly created zone that covers your target area. When you're done, use Zone Merge to combine the split zones back into the original single zone.

It's inelegant and takes a few extra steps, but it effectively lets you target a specific portion of a zone for a dedicated mow pass without permanently changing your map.

The Split function has a second useful application on its own: because it produces straight boundary lines, you can use Zone Split followed by Zone Delete to create clean straight edges on zone boundaries. The current boundary mapping with the mower produces organic traced lines, but a split gives you a ruler-straight edge. If you need a precise straight boundary somewhere in your map, splitting and deleting the unwanted portion is currently the cleanest way to achieve it.

Neither of these is an official feature or intended workflow. They're just things I've discovered by poking around with the new tools during the beta period. Use them carefully and back up your map first.

Hi everyone, the latest firmware and APP updates are now available.

𝐑𝐞𝐥𝐞𝐚𝐬𝐞 𝐃𝐚𝐭𝐞: July 03

𝐀𝐏𝐏 𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐬𝐢𝐨𝐧: 3.0.8 (372)

𝐅𝐢𝐫𝐦𝐰𝐚𝐫𝐞 𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐬𝐢𝐨𝐧: v2.1.49

APP

1. Support zone split and merge functions *requires FW v2.1.49*.
2. Added new languages: Croatian, Finnish, Norwegian and Czech *requires FW v2.1.49*.
3. Optimized UI layout for Samsung Z Series foldable devices.
4. Resolved several known minor bugs.

Firmware

1. Support zone split and merge functions *requires App v3.0.8*.
2. Optimized 4G network auto-reconnection logic for more stable network performance.
3. Optimized charging handbrake logic to reduce occasional incomplete charging issues.
4. Optimized RTK verification parameters to mitigate false fixed status.
5. Optimized blade stuck self-recovery strategy to reduce E45 Blade Jammed errors.
6. Optimized KVS signaling connection to fix occasional FPV camera black screen issues.
7. Reduced partial Navigation Internal Error occurrences.
8. Added deck calibration before docking to reduce E51 Charging Not Detected errors.
9. Fixed occasional loading failure on the device settings page.
10. Improved hedgehog obstacle avoidance success rate and reduced water falling risks.