I have a full interior from a 2002 Quad cab Dakota. Let me know what you need and I will let you know a price. Figured I would post here incase anyone needs something. Some of the larger items would definitely cost to much to ship. For the small items, I'm sure we could work something out.
Hey everyone! Im young and pretty new to all of this, but my dad and I are tackling a full repaint on my project truck together. My dad used to paint years ago and has laid down some nearly perfect, glass-like finishes in the past using a basic HVLP gun (similar to the cheap blue ones you see everywhere). That old gun was his favorite, but it’s been about 15–20 years since he last picked up a spray gun or painted a car. We tried testing out the old gun recently and it sprays like complete shit now, so we needed an upgrade.
Since we’re learning the modern 2K paint world together (and updating his setup to today’s tech), we ended up scoring an unused 2014 TEKNA ProLite kit for a great price along with a bunch of fresh shop gear.
My dad will be handling the actual gun during spraying since he has the muscle memory, but I’m helping with every single step of the prep, mixing, and bodywork along the way as it’s my truck.
Our Equipment & Air Setup:
-Main Base/Clear Gun: DeVilbiss TEKNA ProLite (1.3mm & 1.4mm tips, TE10 & TE20 air caps, plus the HAV-555 digital gauge)
-Primer / Surfacer Gun: $19 Princess Auto gravity feed gun w/ 1.8mm tip (dedicated strictly for thick high-build surfacer)
-Air Drying: Air compressor -> DeWalt 3/8" wall-mounted desiccant dryer -> disposable red inline moisture filters right under the gun handle
-Cup System: SATA RPS disposable cups with a #3 SATA-to-DeVilbiss adapter
-Safety: Workhorse dual-cartridge OVP95 organic vapor respirator with fresh P95 pre-filters(not sure if this is good enough)
-Chemicals & Paint System
Rust Prep / Epoxy: Dominion Sure Seal Rust Off (for deep pits) + Pro-Form PF 664C 2K Epoxy Primer/Sealer (1:1 mix)
-Body Filler: Bondo body filler with plastic spreaders
-High-Build Surfacer: Pro-Form PF 494 White Direct-to-Metal 2K High-Build Surfacer (4:1 mix w/ PF 492 activator)
-Basecoats: PX8 Black (for trim/accent areas) and PGF Emerald Green Pearl (for the main body, jams, and bay)
-Clearcoat: Globalbase LC2010LV 2.1 VOC MS Clearcoat (2:1 mix w/ LH070 medium hardener)
-Cleaners & Reducer: Global Brand Professional Solvent Cleaner (5-gal jug for gun wash) + Pro-Form urethane reducer
Current Game Plan & Step-by-Step Order:
Metal Prep & Epoxy: Treat any remaining pitted areas, scuff the panels, solvent wipe, and shoot 1–2 coats of Pro-Form 1:1 epoxy primer to seal the bare metal.
Bodywork & High-Build: Apply body filler over low spots, block sand, and shoot heavy coats of the Pro-Form white 2K high-build surfacer using the 1.8mm $19 gun.
After bodywork is completed, sandwich it all in with another layer of 2k epoxy.
Basecoat Spraying (TEKNA ProLite + TE10 Cap + 1.3mm Tip). Shoot the PX8 Black trim, then lay down the PGF Emerald Green Pearl basecoat.
Clearcoat Spraying (TEKNA ProLite + TE20 Cap + 1.3mm or 1.4mm Tip): Flush gun, swap to TE20 air cap and lay down the 2:1 Globalbase clearcoat.
Since it's been a couple of decades since my dad last painted, and I'm learning as we go, we'd love any tips, advice, or feedback on our workflow! Anything specific we should keep in mind with the TE10/TE20 caps or spraying 2K clearcoats/pearls with modern HVLP/HE guns? Thanks in advance!