r/DodgeDakota

Need an ecu. 92 3.9 auto 2wd. Federal emissions from what i can tell.

Sticker on my ecu is dirty / worn but can make out what looks to be a 21 as the last 2 digits of part number. Dealer pulls part # R3008921 as part number which makes sense with the last 2 i can see. However that part number seems to pull up listings for an ecu for the 2.5l. Based on research the 3.9 part number should be 56028741. Has anyone run into this? Also listings show compatible years from 90-95 but other research shows 92-93 due to changes made within the pcm before / after those dates. Just want to make sure I order the correct one. Thanks

I’ve got a 93 5.2l v8 picked up from a trade a couple days ago. Guy said the engine had been rebuilt 6000 miles ago but it’s now stalling, idles rough and smells like gas. It also shakes sometimes when it idles low and when I get around 55mph under 2000rpms.
All the injectors look brand new, the IAC looks new. I can’t find any fuel leaks. What could the issue be? Fuel pump? If anyone knows where I should start please help me out. I can take pictures or videos or whatever but I’m gonna need this car soon.
Thanks

The truck still drives great but the rear brake lines rusted out and the bracket where the E brake attaches to on the driver side has completely rusted off, so it won't pass inspection. It's a V8 4x4 extended cab Sport. Also the bolt connecting the drive shaft to the differential has almost rusted through completely. My mechanic quoted me $1200 to replace brake lines and the bolt, but can't fix the e brake bracket. The ac and heat do not work. It has 213k miles and I just use it for the dump and hardware store. It's been in my family since new. It will probably cost me $1000 to get the E brake bracket replaced, but the truck is so rusted you can poke your finger through the front bumper.

Is it time to junk it? Would anyone buy it? I looked at replacing the lines myself but they are very hard to get at and I'm not that patient or that good of a mechanic.

I replaced the brake booster and master cylinder chasing a spongy pedal going to the floor which didn't fix it. Did another diagnostics and found a hydraulic leak from the passenger side rear brake assembly. Mobile mechanic says it is a "seal" and will replace both sides and brake pads for $450. I've never changed drum brakes and a little intimidated tbh. But I feel like I can do this myself and save some $$. So, how do I fix the hydraulic brake fluid leak? Any good advice for first time drum brake changers? thank you.

So I went to start my truck today (2011 3.7l 4x4). It cranked very briefly then wouldn't crank again. Battery tests good and I charged it and retested just in case. Cleaned battery terminals, swapped the starter relay, smacked the starter with a hammer a couple times and can't get it to turn over, all I get is 1 click from the relay. Remote lock/unlock and power windows work fine, and no codes when I scanned it. Pretty certain it's the starter, anything else it could be?

Crank no start, replaced pickup coil, dist cap and rotor. Fired up. Ran for 100 miles and shut off. Back to crank no start. Checked the 3 wire splice. Good connection, no corrosion. I was getting odd voltage readings at battery. 14.5v then spike to 18v then drops to 3 then back to 14.5. But power at alternator output to battery was a constant 14.5v, never had the spike or drop. Was thinking bad connection on that cable. Since truck died again, found no spark again. Coil ohm’d good. Pickup coil only showing 2ish ohms. So looks like pickup coil is bad again. New aftermarket coil with less than 100 miles. You think the coil just went bad or would the bad alternator to batter cable have caused a failure?

I just find it weird that a bad cable would show a spike, if anything i could see a drop. If the voltage at the alternator output never increased how did i get an extra 4 volts then a drop at the battery that never showed at the alternator output?

Battery is brand new and tests good.

1. Anyone see a failure of their replacement pickup coil?
2. Does those voltage reading make sense to anyone?