
Unable to remove spark plug coil from the engine. 2008 v6
When I try to unbold the nut the whole bolt spins. I was able to remove 2 but all the rest just spin. I have no clue how to unfold these.
Thank you for any help.

When I try to unbold the nut the whole bolt spins. I was able to remove 2 but all the rest just spin. I have no clue how to unfold these.
Thank you for any help.
Anyone know why it’s dying on me I replaced the throttle body position sensor as well as IAC sensor and nothing
so i’m wanting to redo most of my front suspension besides the coil springs. every video i’ve seen you need to take out the springs to change the control arms and i was wondering if there’s any work around to where i do not have to take out the coil springs. if not what is the safest/most practical way to remove coil springs? i have a 95 3.9l with rwd.
Where is this cable supposed to be bolted? I just bought the truck two years ago and today it wouldn’t start I hit a big bump and it died I’m thinking this came undone from something.
Before and after, looking really good now
I've got a 1996 3.9L v6 club cab. Google said 4 quarts exactly, that seems a little low to me. Do they really only need 4 quarts?
So I do have an ac compressor and as far as I can tell it does work because when I turn on the ac its blowing air but its not cold at all, I live in the south and work in the heat so I need something its miserable, anyone know where I could start? Not tryna take it to a mechanic I dont want my truck gone for weeks and having to pay $1000+
It’s crazy what new headlights can do for your car looks wise . The paint ain’t the best but still looks good imo . Got the headlights from Facebook market for like $80 brand new . Oem equivalent>Aftermarket 🫡
2001 Dodge Dakota randomly shutting off when I rev it in park or if I switch from reverse to drive or vice versa also when in drive or reverse i press on the gas and it shuts off starts right back after I turn it back on and checked the throttlebody wasn’t dirty. What could it be?
Hey guys, hoping y'all can help because me and my uncle are out of ideas. 97' Dodge Dakota sport, a little over 100k miles. It was throwing a 303 code for a misfire on cylinder 3. We changed the distributor cap/rotor, plugs, wires, etc. full tune up. Check engine light comes back on and the rumble from misfire is fairly consistently bad. When we unplug the sensors and/or reset the battery, it'll run good (no check engine light) for a couple hours but inevitably, misfire resumes. We checked it again yesterday and it was now saying misfire on cylinder 1 (which it never has previously) and cylinder 3 but we can feel ticking at the valves. It seems to be electrical like a sensor is saying there's an issue when there isn't and causing the ECU to make changes/adjustments that aren't necessary and causing the problem.
Has anyone dealt with this or have any ideas? I'd really appreciate any help.
I recently picked up a 2000 Dakota with a 4.7l v8. It does not start and I’m wondering if it’s bc this ground is just floating. It is located right below the power steering pump and next to the oil filter. Any help would be appreciated.
I'm working on getting a trailer brake controller but I'm not sure which plug it would plug into or if either one is the right one, any help would be much appreciated. 1999 club cab sport 4×4
Here is all the information I have:
1994 Dakota
Mark 3 v8 4x4
Extended cab
140k miles
Frame underneath has some surface rust. Nothing rotted but still a concern
Needs a slight realignment, thinking about slightly raising it about 2” so may need realignment anyway.
Panels have a couple paint chips missing but no rusting, hood and roof have some fading.
Appears to run well and electrical is solid
Interior is clean but seats and cloth ceiling have some rips
They have it listed at 5k, which I think is high
I’m thinking offering 4, and capping my price at 4,250. Let me know what y’all think, and any advice on what to inspect further.
SOLVED, SHIFT CABLE BROKE. My 02 2WD Dakota (automatic) was running and shifting just fine when it decided to stop shifting out of drive, it didn’t sound like anything was grinding or broken when I was trying to shift, it felt like the truck stopped receiving my input when moving the shifting lever, and didn’t want to go out of gear or anything. Hope the transmission itself is okay and it’s some linkage or electronic thing. Any advice?
Found a gem, 4x4 crew cab v8 6 speed manual with only 170k kilometers
I’m replacing the drum brakes on a 1996 Dodge Dakota, my question is should there be a link/pin between the shoe and the cylinder? There weren’t any when I took them apart and there aren’t any included in the rebuild kit, but it doesn’t seem like the shoe is pressing enough on the cylinder. Can anyone with a first gen verify? I’m waiting on a new cylinder anyway, just want to put it together right and have some working brakes.
Update: I looked through the Haynes manual and it does not need a pin. My cylinder is just extremely worn and the spring was doing absolutely nothing.
So im stuck at what I can do ive removed all the bolts from firewall and fasteners inside but cant seem to get the box loose and im thinking its cause my ac lines does anyone know if I can even get enough room while having the ac lines still connected to get to the heater core? If not do you know if there is mobile mechanic who could do such service of recovering and recharging refrigerant for me?
So the truck won’t idle. If you step on the gas it will run. Once it drops below 1000 rpm’s it will surge up and down and die.
No check engine light stored or pending.
List of new parts
Battery
Throttle body
Spark plugs
Fuel pump
Vent/purge solenoid
Relays
PCV hoses
Crank Position Sensor
My uncle purchased it brand new back in 2006. Currently sitting at ~56K miles. Couple of rust spots and a small exhaust leak but other than that its in great shape.
Can anyone help please I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota with a 4.7 I bought it about a year ago, roughly after a week that I bought it it randomly turned off, ended up being a PCM but when I took it to a shop to get the PCM replaced, I noticed the gauge cluster stopped working as well as the AC and the 4 x 4. I took it back to them. They tested the PCM and even put a new one in and still nothing. I took it to the dealer and they couldn’t help me either. Can anyone help or does anyone know what it is? I’m just trying to get this truck running and recently, it started turning off randomly when I switched from reverse to drive or drive to reverse. 🤦🏻