Physics modding of base cars

I made a post about this last week in the main ACEvo subreddit, then found this one. I want to make a car in game to match my actual track car, a lightly modded BMW M2. My M2 has a bit better engine specs, more adjustability in the suspension settings, wider tires, and an aero package.

Last week I managed to extract the files from content.kspkg and could change data files in the SDK. I got stuck trying to export the modified car because the extracted files don't have .fbx mesh files in them, they have some other mesh file type that isn't playing nicely with the SDK.

I made a bit more progress tonight I think. I confirmed that if I go into the games root folder, rename content.kspkg to something else, then copy in all the extracted files from within content.kspkg, the game runs with the extracted version instead. I copied my engine data file from my modded car in the SDK files and saved it over the base M2 engine data file in the extracted content folder. Its hard to confirm because I can't drive them side-by-side, but I'm pretty sure it took.

Ideally I'd like to add a modded car as an additional option and have an updated mesh for the exterior to display a wing and front splitter. But for now, I'm able to make changes to how the car behaves and that's a big step closer to my goal.

For the mod, I rewrote the engine torque curve to match dyno data from an M2 manual with M2 CS coding applied. This adds about 60 horsepower and balances out the torque across the rev range compared to the base data in the game. My next attempts will be to make some suspension parameters more adjustable and hopefully figure out how aero adjustments work in the SDK to add downforce.

If anyone has done something similar to what I'm trying to do and has tips or better ways to accomplish it please tell me.

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u/Saved_by_a_PTbelt — 12 days ago

Issue with sending RCS messages to one user

Issue: starting yesterday I'm no longer able to send RCS messages to one user. Prior to yesterday I had no issues. The RCS messages show a "sent" status. I'm able to force the message through as SMS. In between messages the chat shows its RCS encrypted and the other user is able to send me RCS messages. I can also see their chat bubble when they're typing and message reactions. Other chats are working correctly in RCS.

Relevant info: I'm on a Samsung S24+ using google messages on Google Fi in the USA. The other user has a Samsung phone as well. Some time between my last successful RCS message and this issue the other user took a flight within the US, so their phone was in airplane mode and changed locations. I can see on my profile that my RCS chat status shows connected. On the other user's profile I see "keys no longer verified".

Troubleshooting steps taken:

-Verified Google Messages is on current version

-Installed Carrier Services app

-Cleared cache in Google Messages, Android System Key Verifier, and Carrier services, followed by a phone reboot

-Cleared cache and data in GM and Carrier services plus a phone reboot

-Force sync mobile configuration in the GM debug menu, followed by reboot

-Toggled RCS chat in Google Messages app, multiple times

I'm at a loss on this one. I can't tell if the issue is on my end or on the other user's end. Its odd to me that the RCS capability is working in one direction, and that my RCS chats are working with other users. I see there's a way to manually verify keys with a QR code but the other user is currently on the other side of the country from me.

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u/Saved_by_a_PTbelt — 2 months ago

New to game - button mapping question

I'm new to ACC, coming over from GT7. I'm having a ton of fun learning the sim with more complex physics and added realism in racing procedures and car functionality. I've got some questions about button mapping.

I'm using a Logitech Pro setup with the G RS hub. I've mapped the buttons based on a google AI recommendation. I wanted to use the manual functions in the game so I have the headlights, pit limiter, wipers, ignition, and starter mapped. I have two rotary encoders available and AI recommended brake bias on one and TC on the other.

First question, what button functions do you use often and which are less important? I acknowledge I can use auto headlights, pit limiter, wipers, etc but I'm having fun with manual control and would like to keep those. However, I don't want to sacrifice a more important function but I'm not sure what those are right now.

Second, what functions would you put on the two rotaries, and what would you adjust on the MFD? My initial take was ABS and TC would be changes I'd want on rotary, where brake bias seemed like something to set initially and not worry about during a race. The AI recommendation surprised me. Which functions need to be adjusted often or urgently during races and belong on a dedicated rotary?

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u/Saved_by_a_PTbelt — 4 months ago
▲ 60 r/Tudor

Another Steel Reef Pepsi bezel

I bought the BB58 GMT as soon as it was released on a 5-link bracelet. It wasn't long until I heard about Steel Reef bezels and decided I needed to try their blue/red.

I picked my watch up from the shop and it looks amazing. The red is more of a true red than Tudor's burgundy. The blue is just a shade lighter than a pure blue. The gold lettering is subtly less saturated than Tudor's. Steel Reef really nailed the slightly faded aluminum and bakelite bezel look from the 50s and 60s Rolex GMTs.

The bezel insert isn't misaligned. The bezel itself was skewed slightly to the right when I took the picture. The lighting here shows the colors well so I'm using this picture anyway.

u/Saved_by_a_PTbelt — 4 months ago

Slava 2414 mainspring size issue

Opened up a well used Slava with a 2414 movement to clean and renovate. These have two barrels and when I opened them up the two mainsprings look different. Is this normal, is one more worn out than the other, or is this someones shoddy repair in the past?

I was planning on cleaning and reinstalling the mainsprings but now I'm not sure thats the right way to go. One spring is definitely more springy than the other. Its hard to judge but it looks like it may even be a shorter spring. I searched the web and couldn't find any reference saying this was normal or expected.

u/Saved_by_a_PTbelt — 5 months ago

I need help figuring out where this piece goes in the movement

This is my first movement tear down and rebuild. I bought the cheapest movement I could find on Amazon as I knew I'd make some mistakes. Its the Hemobllo automatic, screenshot of Amazon for reference. I can't find any diagrams or videos of anyone else disassembling this movement to reference.

As I was disassembling the pictured piece popped out before I could see where it belonged. The piece was either sandwiched between the main bridge with the automatic movement and the body, or it was wedged into the bridge itself. It popped out as I removed the bridge from the body.

The piece has a jewel on it so I'm reasonably certain it holds a wheel. There are no screw holes in the piece, just a couple arms that sit up against something.

Any help is appreciated.

u/Saved_by_a_PTbelt — 5 months ago

"Caller" GMT watches suck and are cope for people who can't or won't buy a "traveler" GMT watch. Callers aren't worthy of the GMT moniker.

Caller GMTs are just regular movements with an extra hand. The whole point of a GMT watch is to adjust time easily as one moves between time zones. The jumping hour hand in a traveler GMT is what makes this possible. Caller GMTs are regular watches playing dress up but are actually shit at doing GMT things.

But OP, what about the GMT Master? It was the original. Sure, but Rolex figured out how to make it better 50 years ago. Caller GMTs might have been novel in the 60s and a traveler GMT movement has been the superior option for half a century.

And what about a Glycine Airman? It has a 24 hour dial and handset. Totally different category of watch. They were never designed with the intent of changing the time anyway, just spin the bezel to set a new timezone.

Traveler GMT watches are awesome and everyone should have one in their collection. Caller GMTs are lame and the extra hand is just a decoration mimicking their superior counterpart.

Don't even get me started on GMT watches with a fixed bezel. What even is the point of those?

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u/Saved_by_a_PTbelt — 6 months ago