u/Sorry_Character1806

Just finished yard work in 100+ degree weather so I was just trying to cool off in the garage, saw my car, and figured why not take a picture

The shop press was on sale for $210 with ITC membership so it was hard to pass up. Also installed 3" casters for easy mobility. Also picked up the magnets strip tool holder ($1.98 on sale) for the bottle jack handle to mount to.

I have an 08 Base Model Automatic and for maybe 2 years now my gas cap light warning keeps coming on randomly. I've even already replaced the gas cap with a new OEM one. After some digging and research, it looks like the EVAP Canister Purge Valve is the culprit. There were lots of DIYs on YouTube on how to do this but it's relatively straightforward. You just need to remove a couple of engine covers and potentially loosen the fuse box to move it out of the way to gain access to the bottom bolt. I was already doing other work so I had a lot of stuff previously removed. Also, I got a replacement third party valve from RockAuto (always my go to). Sure enough after replacing the valve, the light hasn't come back on. Fingers crossed that it's permanently resolved now. Hopefully this comes in handy for someone else.

UPDATE: The aftermarket Dorman EVAP purge valve is now triggering a DTC as opposed to just the gas cap warning. I will be returning it and picking up the Odyssey OEM purge valve

I have an 08 base model automatic and I've had the VSA+Brake+Attention dash warning lights on for a while. After lots of research, I've come to find out the sensor in the brake fluid reservoir has gone out causing all the lights to come on. There are lots of potential reasons why this combination of lights can be on, but I actually had the car scanned and it pulled the exact code that the brake fluid sensor was showing that the brake fluid was low so YMMV. The only thing that sucks about this is that you can't just replace the sensor you have to replace the entire brake master cylinder. It's not a hard job but it's just work and you have to bench bleed the new master cylinder before you install it and then once you install you have to bleed the entire brake system. The result is definitely rewarding though. Hopefully this information helps someone else having this exact issue. Also make sure to get good quality flare nut wrenches because I ran into issues with the Pittsburgh brand from harbor freight and ended up breaking one. But when I got a better quality wrench, I was able to loosen the brake line nuts more easily, especially after soaking with PB blaster. YOU DO NOT WANT TO ROUND OFF THOSE MAKE LINE NUTS.

FYI my exact code was DTC 65-21 - brake fluid level switch stuck ON

Since we didn't get the cool JDM VIN plates, fellow enthusiast Andrew Hake made some cool custom pieces