r/S2000

They smashed the window and stole the oem black hardtop. Any point filing a police report? Car was parked in my driveway overnight.

Installed Spoon monoblock calipers with H&R 20mm spacers as per this video: https://youtu.be/9fszaQC5Z2g?is=ibbEMBP5JKwoH2Rh

(New tyres and centre caps are on order)

But the fitment looks awful. I'm guessing the camber needs to be adjusted and the monster truck ride height isn't helping. ...time for coilovers? What should I do next?

I was looking at this https://www.ebay.com/itm/358459095132 and a dozen other similar listings that were priced at the same range, and I became suspicious based on what I had expected OEM parts like this to be priced at.

Update - Learnings and Conclusion:

It does seem that there are a few "tells" that indicate counterfeit/misrepresented items, and some search filters that drop many suspicious listings:

1. Adding a filter of Brand: Honda seems to quickly trim many of the low-priced, suspicious listings. It's not proof of authenticity, but it's a useful filter.

2. The term "Genuine Honda" appears to be something suspicious listings avoid. It's a much stronger claim about the actual manufacturer than simply saying "OEM."

3. If the Honda logo is blurred/pixelated/erased in the product images, I'd consider that a significant red flag, especially when everything else looks like genuine Honda packaging. My original assumption was that showing the Honda logo on a fake product was more legally damning, but it's probably more about trademark enforcement/detection and reducing ambiguity. Explicitly claiming a counterfeit is "Genuine Honda" would be problematic too.

4. Terms like "OEM" appear to be nebulous enough that they're used pretty freely. It can mean original manufacturer, OEM replacement, OEM-spec, OE-equivalent, etc. I wouldn't take "OEM" to mean Genuine Honda by itself.

None of these are guarantees, so YMMV. This also assumes that a seller of legitimate parts knows to lean into the not-fake indicators when creating their listing.

The biggest tell to me is the combination of a much lower price, avoiding "Genuine Honda," and deliberately removing the Honda logo from otherwise Honda-looking packaging.

Earlier this spring I purchased a 76k mile Laguna blue ap2 from a retired gentlemen who was the original owner. Only 3k miles put on in the last 11 years and garage kept. It was always dealer maintained with records back to new in VA and never driven hard. Truly a gem of a find.

Needless to say I've been thoroughly enjoying the car the last few months, putting 10k miles on it since March.

Two mornings ago I turned it on, heard a ticking that sounded out of place, but went away after a few seconds. 100 yards up the street in second gear I heard the spaghetti monster sounds of a belt shredding and immediately clutched and killed the ignition.

The accessory belt was half shredded and a quick check of all the pullies by hand brought to my attention the fact that the outter ring of the crank pulley/damper was free floating on the main pulley body.

I trimmed the shredded bits of the belt, removed the outer pulley body, reseated the belt, and limped it back to the house.

Upon calling Honda, there was only one crank pulley in a Honda service center nationwide, 2700 miles away in Los Angeles.

$305 + belt later with overnight shipping I sit now with a running s2k again. Sucks to replace the belt again seeing as I did that along with the tensioner and idler back in April but such is life.

The scary part of this was that I was going to take the car out of town for work 350 miles away into central new York, but had to delay the trip a week.

Moral of the story: I've done all the recommended maintenance and more and the car was treated perfectly until it changed hands to me. The crank pulley never crossed my mind as a failure point and it could have caught me with my pants down hundreds of miles from home. Perhaps it's something you all should replace before straying too far from home.

I half wonder if the additional strain from using the A/C regularly was the nail in the coffin, or the fact that it is actually seeing vtec with any regularity for the first time in its life contributed.

Whatever the case it's a 20 year old car, I can't be mad. This car is everything I hoped it would be back in high school 25 years ago. Love it.

Just finished yard work in 100+ degree weather so I was just trying to cool off in the garage, saw my car, and figured why not take a picture

🌈 Spotted on the Benicia Bridge 🌈

I’m thinking about getting the CP-71WAK, the photos show different mounting areas for the brackets than this installation video I found. Is the piece in the Walmart photo somehow removable?

I have stock suspension, header w all heat shields, catalytic converter and other stuff I can’t remember.

I also have a pair of Craft Square Mirrors.

PFA lol

Hello everyone I bought a k&n hp-1004 oil filter and noticed it was bigger than my previous oil filter (Mobil 1 M1-110A). I ended up not using it and went back to AutoZone and got the same one as my previous one. I just thought it was weird because I got the information off of K&N's website. But has anyone used that specific kan oil filter? Did I panic for nothing?

Has anyone ever had this problem before? Camber seems to be identical, wheel size is the exact same but one side sticks out about 1/2 inch more than the other.

On top of that, I maxed out the lowest setting on the coilovers on both sides and the RL (also side that sticks out more) sits almost an inch higher than the RR side.

I’ve been trying to figure this out for a few days now and can’t seem to find the problem.

Anyone have some insight on this?

TYIA

Pretty great condition(minor scratches/rock chips) 94k miles 10/10 VINs. 2000 AP1.

DM with questions or offers. Asking for $26k.

Completely stock besides Power Acoustik headunit(still have the stock headunit)

Only reason I’m selling is that I’m too big haha

If anyone is looking for S2000 parts or others such as wheels, feel free to hit me up! I can get pricing on aftermarket parts and usually get pretty competitive pricing.

For example, I can currently get HKS coilovers for $250 less than typical US pricing and can do $1650 shipped for the 2026 model.

HKS, Spoon, Mugen, Toda, Volks, Ohlins etc. — send me the part number or a link to what you’re looking for and I can get you an estimate.

Tariff/import fees may apply depending on the part, so reach out and I can give you the full estimate before you decide.

DM me here or IG anytime with what you’re looking for!

https://www.instagram.com/champlinjdm?igsh=MWtqY3ZxdHgybWdzdA%3D%3D&igsi=MWtqY3ZxdHgybWdzdA%3D%3D&utm_source=qr

I have a 2004 ap2. The car is on some coilovers lowered about half inch. Does anyone know if these will fit with out rubbing.
Eneki triumph front 18x8 +45mm rear 18x8.5 +38mm

Anyone have a good site they use to mock up wheels? The majority ones I use all suck lol