Interesting observation about 1/3 of the way through a 7-color, 42h print. The print itself is working fine, and I have not had any stalls or errors from the H2C, however there is some spaghetti on the purge tower/block.
Happen to others too?
So I’ve been printing lots of little published items from within Bambu Handy so that I can orient to really basic issues, like filaments feeding, different little errors or stalls, etc. I’d like to eventually learn how to make practical prints of my own. I have never worked with CAD software, but I have a lot of general tech experience, and have done some coding, but mainly statistical code and similar.
How do I get started? Is there a self-based tutorial of some sort? I admit that the UI on Bambu Studio does not seem all that intuitive to me.
As the title suggests… this is a Bambu brand refill. I’ve had many of these before and none other than this one have given me any issues. This one self-tangles repeatedly.
I don’t have a re-spoiler and honestly am not excited to print one for one fluke spool.
Is this a recurring thing that just happens? I’m a noob, so not sure if it’s just a 1 in 10 chance of a crappy spool or what.
Is there a simple way to re-spool that isn’t going to take me hours and hours. Must I print a re-spoiler?
I’m pretty new to 3d printing but have been getting along pretty well with a dozen or so prints behind me. I had a couple of adhesion issues recently that I solved by cleaning the build plate so I thought that issue was done, but then today I was printing plate one of the filament track switch holder created by Bambu labs, and again I get spaghetti.
This looks NOT to be related to plate adhesion though, as the flaw occurred at the top of part of the print, and it all looks to be securely attached to the build plate. I’m not home so I can’t toy with it, but my wife reports that all looks secure on the plate.
This is printed using dry (9% rh) PLA filament from Microcenter using the “generic” PLA setting. The supports seemed to have been printing fine until this point when all-pasta broke loose.
Help?
<crossposted in r/Bambulab also>
I see so many issues with the filament track switch that I’m wondering if I should even bother attempting to use my new-in-box one when I connect my second AMS 2Pro with my existing AMS’s.
Should I just go with the 4-to-1 adapters for now and wait for a firmware update before attempting the FTS?
I’m getting this error on a new H2C. I’ve about 300h on this one, and so far no issues except this. Can’t see any obstructions, and I went through the steps per the QR code that guides the end user….
(Cross-posted)
I just ordered a second AMS 2 Pro to add to my H2C system, so now I'll have **two AMS 2 Pro's** and and **AMS HT**. The table that my H2C sits on is just wide enough to fit the printer itself an d the AMS HT beside it, so I will need both AMS 2 Pro's to sit on top of the printer.
My ultimate setup will include these three AMS filament systems, plus **I plan to print a retractable spool dry** box for printing TPU. TPU printing is something I haven't tried yet, but from reading about it, I gather that it's best to have the spool above the printer so gravity is working in favor.
I know there are a few print models out there for stacking two AMS's, and I've also seen models for "hanging" an AMS HT on the side of the printer.
**Seeking recommendations** for which among the various "stacker" options seem to work best for mounting two AMS2 Pro's on top of an H2C, and whether there's one that could also fit the spool box for TPU printing, or even both that spool box plus the AMS HT.
Do any of you who own a AMS for managing your filaments also use the external filament that hangs on the side of the printer?? With all the importance about keeping filament dry, I can’t see the use of that?? I’m a newbie though so maybe I’m taking that it seriously.