So I’ve looked and weighed all the options and I think if I’m going to get a bambu it might as well be the h2c. It’s a chunk of change though. I can get a student discount (8%) or I was wondering if you guys think come Black Friday it will go on sale for over ($200) off?
I’m looking mostly for multicolored printing as a hobbyist and with waste and speed I am leaning h2c.
I am trying to order two H2C’s from their website. The order keeps getting canceled through them. I called my bank and they said it’s not on their end. Anyone else have this problem?
Hi everyone
As previously announced I’ve released two upgraded versions of my Filament Track Switch & TPU Feed Assist Mounts! My main goal was simple: reduce filament resistance to a minimum while keeping the setup compact.
Link Version 3
V3 Filament Track Switch & TPU Feed Assist Mounts
Link Version 4
V4 Filament Track Switch & TPU Feed Assist Mounts
New with Version 3
New with Version 4
Shared Features:
Which one to choose?
I hope these models will be useful to you.
Looking forward to your feedback.
I've had my H2C for a couple months now, but never really utilized its build volume or color changing to the max. Sure I've dabbled with small multi-colour trains and stuff, but nothing bigger was ever called for.
Today all that changes though! A 5-colour lampshade to be printed at 0.2mm layer height. This might not be massive for some of you, but this print will take around 90 hours, and have over 5200 colour changes!
So thanks to BL's back to school sale, I just ordered 2 additional AMS 2 Pro's for my H2C.
I was considering getting 2 HT's for the left nozzle, and was gonna build a BMCU for PLA on the right nozzle, but that deal for 400 euros for 2 ams2's just made all that tinkering seem too much effort - specially considering how 'easy' the ams2 pro's make printing.
So now I have checked multiple models of different AMS stacker on Makerworld, and to me the AMS PRO modular rack (https://makerworld.com/models/3127587?appSharePlatform=copy) stands out as the most 'sensible' solution, as it enables moving all 3 AMS's at the same time and seems durable due to the use of extrusions (which I've got plenty left from old, recycled printers).
I'm adding I would combine it with the AMS Multiple Nozzle Switch System (https://makerworld.com/models/2060295?appSharePlatform=copy) in order to also be able to switch which nozzle the AMS's feed to. I don't see the point of the track switch as I don't think I'll ever go for more than 7 colours at once.
I'd be mounting a 350W PSU to the rack so the AMS's won't be dependent on printer power for drying.
I'll most likely remix some other models which imitate the 'outside shell' of the H2 Series(like https://makerworld.com/models/1292520?appSharePlatform=copy for example), so the ams stack won't look 'naked' next to the printer, as well as put some acrylic panels on it, to keep the radiant heat at bay - and figure out a smart/sensible solution for the vented air from drying to escape the whole thing...
Any addons/mods which I haven't found yet and would make sense?
I did consider the [BaBo duo] AMS drawer stacker (https://makerworld.com/models/1659712?appSharePlatform=copy) ans might implement one of the drawers from the system, but not being able to lift/move it as one piece and the main structural parts being printed kind of putts me off a bit.
Input is appreciated!
Hey guys.
New to 3d printing.
The filament is in an Ams pro 2.
I changed colours. And different feeds.
Really struggling.
Thx
I noticed this issue when printing a magnetic boot for Milwaukee batteries, right where the bottom meets the walls (where it starts to become hollow on the inside) it’s like it’s shifting the outer wall out by .5mm. In the slicer it looks perfectly fine, and I was able to duplicate the issue by making a cube with a negative cube inside it in Bambu studio to rule out a model issue.
In the picture, the line on the outer wall of the print shouldn’t be there and the nothing i can see in the slicer shows a reason for it to be there. It’s perfectly fine on the inside of the box as well.
I recently went from the P1S to the H2C. The table I currently have barely fits the H2C and wobbles beyond crazy (more so with the H2C, assuming because it is a much tighter fit). What are some recommendations on a good table?
Hey guys.
Does anyone know a brand that sells a smooth pei, double sided or not for the h2c?
Not looking for those crazy patterns, just plain smooth.
I checked Darkmooon and West3d, but they come from America, so shipping and customs are basically doubles the price.
Thanks in advance
One month old H2c. Using basic Bambu PLA with ams. Every print fails while setting up and print calibration fails with “nozzle offset calibration error”
It also keeps knocking off the black rubber thing that goes in the filament cutter when it moves laterally. I have ensured it is properly seated and also replaced the black rubber part
The machine is making some loud sounds that feel jarring when it moves
I filed a ticket a few days ago but haven’t heard back yet.
Anyone else have experience this?
Interesting observation about 1/3 of the way through a 7-color, 42h print. The print itself is working fine, and I have not had any stalls or errors from the H2C, however there is some spaghetti on the purge tower/block.
Happen to others too?
Check it out on maker’s world :)
[Gear Generator](https://makerworld.com/models/3143184?appSharePlatform=copy)
Hi all,
Has anyone else had issues with their power supply fan rattling/ making noise? I’m on my third(!) power supply and it just started making noise again. I just contacted support for them to send me ANOTHER power supply. Also, what should I do with the extra power supplies I have?
I'm doing highly detailed bottom surface tiny font work with 0.2 nozzles and struggling with reliability.
One of the primary issues is I can't stop the prime tower falling apart within a layer of two and that leads to debris dragged across the print. The prime tower seems to be generating a set of dry, fibrous, 'strings' (consistently long and straight) that aren't bonded together, despite the prime tower distance being at its lowest (100%).
Most recently I was stumped to get a nozzle clump on the second filament, only to find the first hadn't printed AT ALL(?). I tried that print again and found the hotend just...not moving. Nozzle temperature 140. No error message (it was "printing"!). Stopping the print did nothing. And...it was again, the SECOND filament (I double checked filament, print order, AMS match).
So I load up white thinking maybe somehow I have a nozzle block and the printer isn't noticing literally nothing coming out for a whole print layer and thought I'd film the loading purge. It's reliably not going down the hatch (not blocked). Does this time after time. Explains why I find the odd poop bottom of the printer. I had this before and answer a change of nozzle. I'm now thinking the fragile tower might itself be getting hit by debris from the nozzle loading process.
What should I be looking at?
PS: printing on a glacier, and there seems to be no difference in observed issues whether plate is freshly cleaned or not. Also seems to occur with multiple nozzles and multiple types of matte and basic PLA at a range of temps.
Sold my two A1s and decided to de-clutter my "printing area".
Table: https://www.3d-printiverse-shop.com/collections/printbase-modulare-3d-druck-tische
Not pictured: the 2nd AMS2pro since I was just printing TPU from the HT on the Pandaperch.
wdyt?
I just started notice this grinding sound when my H2C switches nozzles. I’ve never noticed this before, but that being said I haven’t been listening out for odd noises. I just lubed the left nozzle rail and it’s still “grinding”.
I bought my H2C less than 3 months ago at Best Buy and got the extended warranty. Only 200 hrs on it. Last night I was 17 hrs in on a 26 hr multicolor print and the right nozzle filament buffer wouldn't let filament past it. I tried everything for hrs bc I wanted to save the print but it was hopeless. I sent a ticket into Bambu but how does Best Buy handle this? Will they just switch it out for me? The whole combo bc the AMS sounded pretty bad after trying to many times also.
I have a H2S that all of a sudden does not want to feed / retract filament consistently when printing multi-color with my AMS2. All of my filament was dried for 24 hours prior to printing and I have made sure the PTFE tube is a short and direct path between AMS and Printer.
Initially I was having issues with filament not retracting and messing up my first layer and I read online a worn nozzle can be the cause. So I switched from a used 0.4 HF to a new standard flow 0.4. Initially it worked much better, printing consistently. Now I’m wondering if it’s all tied to something else. All of the above is using standard PLA, printing with basically the default BL settings and for any non BL filament, I have flow profiles set using calibration (which has helped a lot overall with this printer)
I’ll also add that each time it has happened, I remove the nozzle and remove the filament stub from the nozzle. I’ve also noticed that the filament coming from the AMS seems bound and the only way to free it is to cut it at the spool to release the tension and then remove the filament from the PTFE tube and pull it back from the top of the extruder head. After this is all cleared out, the printer is able to resume printing at least for awhile.
Any suggestions?
