r/BambuLabH2C

Was gonna get the dedicated stuff but do I really need to

So I’ve been printing lots of little published items from within Bambu Handy so that I can orient to really basic issues, like filaments feeding, different little errors or stalls, etc. I’d like to eventually learn how to make practical prints of my own. I have never worked with CAD software, but I have a lot of general tech experience, and have done some coding, but mainly statistical code and similar.

How do I get started? Is there a self-based tutorial of some sort? I admit that the UI on Bambu Studio does not seem all that intuitive to me.

When I first installed the filament track switch, I frequently encountered excessive resistance. However, after a week of use, the same problem disappeared. When I asked Gemini, he said that each feeding and retraction molds the PTFE to a path of least resistance. It sounds unbelievable. I wonder if anyone else has had the same problem?

Hi guys

I got my dad into 3D printing a year or 2 ago, and he recently bought the new H2C 1.5 months ago, and it's been great, but a few weeks ago it failed.

After having printed successfully a print he set it to print another identical one, but only after a few layers it failed, it said it couldn't switch the extruder.

He took it apart, and ended up replacing the whole motor unit with the cam, but still no luck.

I have now spend a handful of hours testing and redoing things and it's still the same here is what I have learned:

* TH cable seems fine, as the 3 light blink as they should. * CAM has been checked, and installed how they show it in their video. * There's are no leftover filament stuck, both nozzles have been replaced with unused ones. * I believe the CAM turns as it should, at least manually. * Cables seem to be connected as they should, and from the looks of it, nothing seems damaged or bend. * The right nozzle updates after you remove it. * Left nozzle doesn't seem to update in the nozzle menu, even if I remove it, and shut the printer down fully, and turn it on again. * Can't calibrate the new motor, as it fails with switching extruder.

Further information that seems relevant:

* The indication lights for which nozzle is in use are both off, but I noticed after a restart they both flashed quickly, so they do have power. * It originally happened while printing, he had just made a print, then set it to print it again, then the error of which extruder happened shortly into the print. * I find it odd that when trying to switch nozzle, it only seems to try the cam, not the mechanism that switched the nozzle, as in changing the left nozzles height, but I unsure how it normally does it, if it normally does this after it whiched the input, I haven't used the H2C much myself. * When it's trying the cam, it seems to not move much, then fail after it tried to shake it for a bit.

Our plan is to try and contact support soon, as it's a new printer, but I'm all ears if anyone has any suggestions to what to do, or how to maybe fix it, as I really want my dad to be able to get back and have fun printing.

As the title suggests… this is a Bambu brand refill. I’ve had many of these before and none other than this one have given me any issues. This one self-tangles repeatedly.

I don’t have a re-spoiler and honestly am not excited to print one for one fluke spool.

Is this a recurring thing that just happens? I’m a noob, so not sure if it’s just a 1 in 10 chance of a crappy spool or what.

Is there a simple way to re-spool that isn’t going to take me hours and hours. Must I print a re-spoiler?

I’m printing with an H2C and just completed the print of a very nice vase but the wall thickness is a bit on the thin side. I’m new to Bambu Studio and was wondering if there is a way in Bambu Studio to adjust the wall thickness and make the vase print with thicker walls. I see there are values for line width, but I don’t know if that’s how to do it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Tom

Could BL come up with faster color swaps on the H2C? Maybe this doesn't mean re-designing or eliminating the Vortek nozzle-changer system for dedicated toolheads. How about a NEW AMS Pro 3 where there are 2 motors to send out a second feed from the AMS? If they had two motors in the "AMS 3s" the filament could be primed and ready at the 4 in 1 adapter so that the retrieval time was shorter. I don't know if the daisy chain and 6-pin cable was designed with the capability or not. It means synching assignment colors and ports would be critical, especially if there were 2 AMS 3s in the setup. It might be a way to speed up color swaps. What do you think? I am not an engineer, just throwing the idea out.

Trying to decide between H2C and H2D printers after using the P1S for a year. Primarily interested in printing dissolvable supports for large complicated and possibly fragile models.

Is there some way that the H2D is better at printing dissolvable supports? h2D seems maybe it deals better with higher temperatures than the H2C but that shouldn’t affect the hydrophilic PVA used in most dissolvable filament.

The extra $$ is not great but I would be ok to spend it for the option to use more colors with H2C vortec system but only as long as the H2C is just as good as the H2D on dissolvable supports. If H2C saved some money on PVA poop that would maybe recoup some of the expense too.

Thanks for any thoughts, particularly anyone who has experience / expertise with dissolvable issue.

Has anyone done the Vortek upgrade to an H2S or H2D? What was your experience like doing the upgrade?

So I finally purchased an oem power supply from Bambu Lab to use the drying feature of the AMS 2. My question is anyone selling a splitter to goto more than 1 AMS with just one power supply? I understand that you would not be able to use it for more than 1 AMS at a time but I have 4 AMS units and don't want to buy 3 more power supplies. I do not do a lot of drying so really wouldn't be worth it for me to spend the additional 100 bucks if the splitter cost 20. Granted the savings wouldn't be astronomical but it would if you had like 4 or more units on multiple printers. Let me know thanks.

Is anyone else having this problem? I also just updated Bambu studio today so it could be a bug in that or could be a coincidence. It's very loud and very annoying and slows down my print. I just want traditional timelapse back.

Looking for a good riser/shelf recommendation

I had a print fail.

Now I get the AMS wont retract error and I can't figure out what to do. The filament from AMS to switch to printer is under tension, I can not remove any of the PTFE tubes. I heat tge extruder up but it doesn't seem to be able to move forward or back.

The onscreen troubleshooter assistant gives no advice