r/BambuLabH2C

Just got my new Bambu Lab H2C and I’m having an issue during setup/calibration.

The printer gives me a ventilation/fan error, and there’s a loud “clac clac clac” noise coming from the rear of the machine.

At first I thought it was just the rear louvers/flaps not opening correctly, but after checking more carefully, the noise actually seems to come from underneath the louvers, near the rear fan grille.

It almost sounds like:
- a fan blade hitting something,
- a cable touching the fan,
- or the rear ventilation system vibrating because the louvers don’t fully open.

The louvers also make noise when closing.

Has anyone experienced this on the H2C?
Factory assembly issue maybe?

Thanks!

B1 Battle Droid, Bambu Matte Desert Tan, optional brush paint. Print one. Then print 99 more, because that's the only way they're effective.

Roger roger.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2826060-b1-battle-droid-bust-a-star-wars-collectible#profileId-3148156

I can't seem to print this h2c test print correctly. The rear chimney always fails. Does anybody have any ideas? I don't think it's hardware related because it failed on two different h2c's. Any help is super appreciated. https://makerworld.com/models/2142398?appSharePlatform=copy

As the title states. Using Bambu PLA and .4 nozzels. Every time I start a job and and using left and right nozzels it will fail the nozzel offset calibration. It appears and what I think is residual filiment on the right nozzel during the process that is causing the failure. . I can see about a 1/4 inch of filament sticking out of the right nozzel when it fails. If I run the calibration by using the touch screen on the H2C it passes. But when it runs the calibration at the beginning of a file sent to the H2C to print it will fail using both left and right nozzels. It prints fine by using just the right nozzel tho. Also, searched this forum and I did find nothing that pertains to this issue that I seen. Let me know any additional information I can provide because yes I am new to all this unfortunately and learning day by day. Also Machine is only 5 days old and maybe 7 prints done on it.

Cover, spine, and box print as one flat piece with a sliced living hinge. Fold, drop magnets in, done.

Every dimension, compartment count, font, SVG, and color is exposed in the Customizer so you can make it match your shelf, your fandom, or whatever's in your head.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2815068-biy-bookbox-it-yourself-parametric-box#profileId-3134016

Hey team, I’ve had my H2C for 4 months and oiled the system twice, but just got this prompt to do maintenance. Is this new? Is is based on hours of printing or something else?

If you get filament deposits stuck on the outside of an induction hotend, just heat it up to 250C and the you can wipe it off with a heat resistant cloth.

Don’t try to use your thumbnail like I did.

I currently have my printer in our home office, however, my wife works from home and we also run a water distiller in there. We went out of town for a few days, started a print and also a batch of water, came home and the water tasted like plastic.

Naturally, my wife is not happy about this lol. I’m in DFW and I don’t mind having it in the garage, but I fear with our high humidity and high heat in the summers, and the few weeks a year of below freezing, that it won’t be good for the printer.

I will still store my filament inside, but curious if anybody keeps their printer in the garage without any issues?

Hi all
I just finished printing my first ABS-GF print and wondering if anything special needs to be done when I move back to printing PLA ? I found this on the bambulabs website, but wasn’t sure if the H2C walks you through these steps on the screen or if all of this is manual. I was also wondering if this is required if I have a dedicated hot end for each material type that I switch out when I switch to a different filament type. Ie a dedicated hot end of ABS, a dedicated hot-end for PLA etc

This is my first ever printer. Loving it so far! Still learning though.

Been going back and forth with support about this issue I’m having with my H2C. So full story. I did a cold pull prior to printing with some tpu. Towards the end of the cycle I think I got greedy and pulled a bit too hard on the filament which led to some of it breaking off in the idler. I took it off and apart. Found the filament stuck inside and cleaned it out. After that, I was starting a print. This is when I started getting a bunch of errors. I’ll post pictures so I don’t have to type everything out. Bamboo has sent me a new idler which I installed and did not fix the problem. They are currently sending me a new intruder unit which I’m hoping is fixing the problem. I don’t know if I’m just installing something wrong or if there is a bigger issue. But the printer isn’t reading the induction nozzle at all and fails when I try to switch nozzles. If anybody could help or give me any advice that would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I wanted to do a deep dive on color mixes with subtle variations in color percentages. 

I generated 292 unique color mixes in groups of 11 or 13 on BambuStudio & printed on the H2C. Here's the Makerworld link:

292 Color Mixes Tested on H2C

Each color is labelled, so we can easily recreate it again. The mix percentages are listed in this spreadsheet, along with the color themes.  The color names are generated by Gemini and I think they are quite apt! Now when painting models, I would choose from this printed swatch and recreate the color. BambuStudio's representation of the mix is not (yet) accurate.

Color Mix names & percentages spreadsheet 

Bambulab’s CMYKW Lithophane Filament Bundle for the testing

Most of the variations are subtle, and there is substantial banding in many mixes. However, since I print mainly 1/6th scale figurines that are seen from a distance, these mixes are good enough. This threw up many surprises, I'm especially thrilled with the skin tones.

For my testing, I have used 0.12mm layer height & each file takes approx 1h20 mins to print.

At the moment, Makerworld does not support print profiles with color mixes, so ignore the main file and get the 3MF files from the “Download STL/CAD Files” section. There are 13 files and each file tests for 22-26 unique mixes. 

 Following are the mix groupings that result in 292 colors.

1. All pair combinations between CMYKW. We get 10 unique combinations : CM,CY,CK,CW,MY,MK,MW,YW,YK,KW. Each pair produced 11 shades, i.e. 110 unique shades.
2. Exploring light skin tones using MY&W where white is maximised upto 83%, resulting in 13 unique shades
3. Tan to Bronze skin tones where White is gradually replaced with rich combinations of Magenta and Yellow, resulting in 13 unique shades
4. Deep skin tones which anchor strong Magenta and Yellow with precise amounts of cyan and black, 13 unique shades.
5. Mixes leaning towards green hues, using any three colors at a time. 13 shades
6. Mixes leaning towards blue hues,using any three colors at a time. 13 shades
7. Mixes using using Cyan, Magenta, and Yellow
   1. Cyan dominant mixes - 13
   2. Magenta dominant mixes - 13
   3. Yellow dominant mixes - 13
8. Exploring three color mixes where one color is always white or black. This results in six unique combinations - CMK,CYK,MYK,CMW,CYW,MYW. I created 13 shades from each combination. Ie 78 unique color formulas.

Its important to acknowledge that my remixed test strip builds upon the work of the following creators & models:

u/jusdisgi's "PeggyPalette Mini - 38-Color Full Spectrum Tester" for the Snapmaker U1. The OG test palette. 

I also learned a lot from the BambuStudio H2 series specific model “31 Color Mixing Palette - Only 4 Filaments” by u/tmkvamme . Bambu allows max 32 colours/mixes per 3MF file. So I have to limit my swatch to under 32 colors per print. I borrowed the nub from this model.

 Finally, u/funhun7erz’s “Bambu Spectrum - 2 color mixing test piece for BBL”..allowed for testing a pair of colours across 11 mix combinations starting from 80% down to 25% in approximately 5% increments of one colour. I liked how the test strips fit together, but the print time was a bit much, and the nub had flat tops which I knew would have solid colours. I borrowed the clip-together base from this.