Hey everyone, I recently fell down the Japanese denim rabbit hole and had to see what the Oni hype was all about.

Pulled the trigger on these 200ZR secret denim olive weft a couple of months ago. I needed a wider leg - partially because I love the silhouette, but also out of practicality since I have a prosthetic leg and need the extra knee room.

For a wide leg, the seat and top block are quite nice and fitted whilst being comfy with room to move. I was worried they would come out saggy, as previously I tried Tuff Tony’s by Nudie and it was not flattering on me.
I was also looking at the Oni 222 cut, but not sure if that is a tad too wide - does anyone have both, and if so, what has your experience been?

The texture on this 20oz fabric is absolutely insane! Kept hearing about the secret denim feeling like sweatpants, and now that they’re settling, I’m a doubter turned believer haha. It almost feels like a terry sweatpant, and it's nice and hairy. On top of that, the colour is very interesting - each day I wear them, a little more of the green comes out.

Whilst researching my purchase, I was always trawling through Reddit for size references, so to help future buyers: I’m a general Levi’s 32 and bought these in a 33, but reckon I could’ve stayed TTS as the secret denim is quite stretchy and loose. TTS is safe if you don’t mind a bit of break-in, otherwise one up if you want comfort right from the gate. I’m 183cm 83kg.

Anyway, how’s the fit looking?

Crockett & Jones Islay in Dark Brown Scotch Grain

6-Month Review

Background

The Crockett & Jones Islay is one of the brand's best-known country boots, built on the 365 last with Scotch grain leather, a storm welt, and a Dainite sole. It also made an appearance in Skyfall, where James Bond wore a pair in the Scottish Highlands.

I've owned this pair for around six months and have worn them primarily as casual boots for office days, weekends, and plenty of city walking. They also tend to be my first choice whenever there's rain in the forecast. Unfortunately I'm a 9-to-5 office drone, so they haven't seen much actual countryside yet.

One aspect that makes this pair a little unique is that I wear a prosthetic on my right side. Because each boot flexes differently, they've developed noticeably different crease patterns and patina over time. It's actually one of the reasons I started documenting my footwear.

Specs

Brand: Crockett & Jones
Model: Islay
Leather: Dark Brown Scotch Grain
Last: 365
Sole: Dainite
Construction: Goodyear Welted
Size: UK 8.5E

Reference Sizing

• Brannock: US 10D (slightly on the wider side of standard)
• Red Wing Iron Ranger: US 9.5D
• Paraboot Michael: EU 42.5 / UK 9.5
• Alden Aberdeen Last: US 10E
• Loake 205b (3625 last): UK 9F
• R.M. Williams Craftsman: UK 9–9.5
• Carmina Simpson Last: UK 9.5
• Sneakers (Tigers, NBs, Spezials): US 10

Sizing & Fit

The 365 last is generous without feeling sloppy.

I went down half a size from my Brannock measurement (US 10D to UK 8.5E), which also happens to be the same size I wear in my Iron Rangers.

The forefoot has plenty of room for my toes while the heel remains secure. I'd describe it as accommodating rather than wide. I wear medium-weight Dickies athletic socks most of the time and wouldn't want much more room, although thicker wool socks would fit comfortably during winter.

Compared to my Paraboot Michaels, the Islay feels slightly more structured through the midfoot and heel while offering a similarly generous toe box.

Leather & Break-In

The Scotch grain leather was much softer than I expected. Apart from the stiff heel counter and structured toe box, the leather itself was comfortable from day one.

During the first couple of weeks the boots felt fairly rigid underfoot, almost as though they weren't bending naturally. Once the cork filling compressed and the midsole started flexing, that feeling disappeared completely.

The grain leather has also proven very forgiving. Minor scratches tend to disappear with a quick brushing, and because of the pronounced texture it hides everyday wear remarkably well.

Comfort

The Dainite sole strikes a great balance between durability and everyday comfort. It provides plenty of support for long days walking around the city without feeling overly hard underfoot.

The only minor downside is that, like most Dainite soles, it can be a little slippery on smooth wet indoor surfaces. On pavement, gravel, and general outdoor use, though, I've had no complaints.

Wear

One of the most interesting aspects of owning this pair has been watching how differently each boot has aged. Because I wear a prosthetic on my right side, each boot flexes differently, resulting in noticeably different crease patterns and patina.

I also have hyperhidrosis (excessive sweating), particularly affecting my hands and feet, so my footwear tends to experience more moisture than average. It'll be interesting to see whether that accelerates the patina over the coming years.

After six months I've noticed:

• Lightening around the flex points and lace area
• More pronounced grain definition
• Different crease patterns between each boot
• Very little structural change
• The leather still brushes up beautifully despite regular wear

Maintenance has been minimal so far—just regular brushing after wear and one light application of conditioner. The Scotch grain does an excellent job of hiding everyday scuffs.

What I Like

• Extremely versatile for a country boot
• Excellent build quality
• Durable Scotch grain leather
• Grain leather hides scratches exceptionally well
• Storm welt handles poor weather confidently
• Surprisingly comfortable once broken in
• Works equally well with denim, cords, chinos, and wool trousers
• Ages gracefully

What I Don't Like

• One lace has already started to fray
• Dainite can be slightly slippery on smooth wet indoor surfaces

Final Thoughts

Six months in, the Islay has become one of the easiest pairs in my collection to reach for. It works just as well with raw denim as it does with wool trousers or chinos, and it's one of the few boots I own that genuinely feels comfortable in both casual and smart-casual settings. I don't really suit up, but I can imagine they would work well in that setting too.

I originally thought the broguing would make them feel a little too "country" for everyday wear, but the opposite has happened. They've become one of the most versatile boots I own.

If you're after a boot that can handle poor weather, age gracefully, and still look at home in an office, I can absolutely see why the Islay has such a loyal following.