r/rawdenim

I pair of 634's I usually wear slim straight jeans like the 666 how's the fit??

Been really wanting a heavyweight CPO to wear over some Wabash, and thanks to the Self Edge restock, I pulled the trigger. The 19oz fabric is thick, coarse, slubby, and perfect. Weather here in Oregon is about 85 in the mountains, so a perfect lake day, with the Lord pulling some heavy duty assisting on the fades. Underneath is the IHSH-62 with almost 10 months on that. Also coming up on a year in the 555SBGs, update post to come shortly.

Edit to add: just one initial soak to get some shrink out, 15 days daily wear.

I've been wearing these TCB '50s for a little over 12 months and I've probably worn them approximately 300 times since I've purchased them. As great as these jeans are, there are some problems that I've had with them after 12 months of ownership. Though I'm aware they don't look as superbiously faded as they could after a year of wearing, I'm now retiring them to use as a spare comfy pair that I don't intend to wear nearly as often.

To begin with what I like about these jeans, I think that from the beginning to the end the fit of these jeans has been relatively flattering on my body and they've been (mostly) comfortable for daily wear. The denim began as a very uniform denim, with little to no slub or nep; however it was very hairy when I first got them. I also really appreciate how accurate of a reproduction piece they are; TCB took very little creative liberty with this product and aside from a few very minor details, they look incredibly accurate to 1950s era Levi's 501 jeans. The cotton thread has added nicely to the overall wear and patina of these jeans, as it has faded in colour and frayed with time. One of the most stand out details that I've really loved about these jeans is the chain-stitching that caused some pretty aggressive puckering at the seams; most notably, the hem of these jeans looks fantastic in my opinion! These jeans are unsanforized, and I really appreciate the way they stretch and shrink with my body, along with the leg twist. Lastly, the inseam length—it can often be a struggle to find japanese brands with a leg longer than a 32" inseam, and I believe these are approximately 35"–36", which is really appreciated as someone who is a bit taller.

As for some of the things I dislike about these jeans, as much as I like the fit of these, I do find that they fit a little slim on my body and I felt like it kind of limited what I felt comfortable wearing with these. I believe that this also contributed towards premature wear of the crotch, due to friction and stress on the fabric. I felt that at times the thighs could also be a bit slim for my liking, as I could not sit with my phone on my front pocket and I could not raise my legs/squat very comfortably in them. Additionally, the pocket bags were very shallow (contributing to my phone not fitting); this isn't an objective con, as they are a reproduction piece, though I think it's worth noting. As seen in one of the pictures, the pocket bag has worn through after ~12 months of wear. Though I do like the cotton threading a lot, it was somewhat disappointing to see how significantly it has worn down after a year of wear.

Overall, I really think that these are great jeans (especially for the price) and they're exceptionally well made. The issues I experienced with sizing are completely personal; however I felt like it might be useful for some people. Prior to owning these, I owned a pair of Nudie Jeans Rad Rufus, and the difference between owning jeans that are sanforized, and ones that aren't is really noticeable—stretching them out after I washed them, and having the legs twist with wear is definitely new to me. I don't do any labour intensive work in these jeans, and I was aiming for vintage fades with the jeans, which I feel like I achieve decently well with the amount of time that these were worn. I wore them daily for the first 3 months of ownership without washing, and from then onward I washed them monthly, inside out on a regular cycle with warm water. As an attempt at mending the impending crotch blowout, I tried my hand at a sashiko repair, twice. Both times, due to (I believe) friction, the threading had disintegrated, so in the end I gave up. Though I've said a lot of negative things about these jeans, they are really great and especially for the ~$230AUD that they cost, I believe that they're incredible bang for buck.

These are some Evisu Private Stock using their No1 Denim, I’ve had these nearly 10 years now, original fit pics and write up can be found [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/4hwmk7/evisu_private_stock_no_1_special_2017_fit_check/)
 
They’re nearly retired but I like to crack them out every now and again, they’re pretty well worn but luckily I found an amazing lady who does Sashiko repairs – the ones on the cuff are kinda inside out as she wasn’t aware I cuffed them, but I think they look great worn either way anyway.
 
I highly recommend Evisu No1 denim and their Private Stock range, particularly if you can get it in a sale. They’re one of the OG for a reason.
 
Bonus pup 🐶 for the patient! 

Been wearing these pretty much every day for almost 5 years. Got them back in September of 2021. They've been mended so many times that the crotch area especially has become uncomfortable to wear, and the belt loops have started giving out. Also the amount of big holes has become a problem. I might still throw them on every now and then, but for now I have switched to a new pair. If you have any questions about how I've worn them, washed them or anything like that, feel free to ask in the comments.

This is pretty sad for me, since these jeans have been a part of my identity for a long time now. I wore them hard.

Bought this TCB 20s in December 2025 as my very first pair of raw selvedge denim jeans, width is 31 on their website. I’ve since washed the pair once in February and will consider a second wash after the Melbourne winter. I love TCB and have also bought their stay gold 41 chinos, highly recommend them as well.

*These are some slow faders though

Hey, I made these Jeans back in december around Christmas and they are well broken in now. The Fabric is a 17 OZ Selvedge Denim from Selvage.de.
3 Washes and about 100 Wears! Handwash!!

I just finished sewing my first pair of selvedge denim jeans.

This was my first time sewing a pair of pants, and only my third sewing project overall since buying a Singer Heavy Duty 6335M denim version in February. I started sewing with the goal of eventually being able to make my own jeans, so this project was basically what I had been working toward from the beginning.

The main reason I wanted to make them was that my favorite fitting pair of pants is a pair of Ben Davis Trim Fits. I really like the fit, but I was not fully happy with the fabric quality, since they started pilling quite quickly after only a few wears. I wanted to make a denim version with a similar fit, but in a fabric that felt more substantial.

The other reason is that I am a big fan of frog mouth pockets, and I could not really find jeans that had them. So I added them myself.

The denim is 14 oz selvedge denim from Kuroki Mill in Japan. For the thread, I used Eduard Kupfer poly core wrapped in cotton thread , and for the needle, I used a 100/16 needle.

I sewed them on a Singer Heavy Duty home sewing machine. Overall, it was definitely doable, but there were quite a few moments where I had to turn the wheel by hand, especially over thicker areas and the flat felled seams.

I self-drafted the pattern by measuring and copying my Ben Davis Trim Fit pants onto craft paper. I did not make a test pair first, which I probably should have done. The upper block ended up with a bit more room than the Ben Davis pair, but overall I am quite happy with the fit. They are still very stiff, so I am curious to see how they break in.

The whole process, from drafting the pattern to finishing the sewing, took about two weeks.

I have not soaked or washed them yet. I plan to do that next, mainly to remove some of the chalk lines. Unfortunately, I think I should have left the inseam and outseam a bit longer, since I expect the denim to shrink a little. I do like a big cuff, but somehow I seem to have cut them slightly shorter than planned.

One thing I would do differently next time is the yoke. I forgot to properly account for seam allowance when cutting the back panel, so I had to make the yoke a bit bigger. Because of that, the back pockets sit a little lower than I would like. Next time, I would make the yoke shorter and place the pockets slightly higher.

I still need to add the rivets and buttons. Unfortunately, there is no store near me where I can easily buy them, and most online options have pretty expensive shipping, so I am still figuring out what to do there.

I might also add two extra belt loops to give them a bit more of a workwear look.

Overall, I am really happy with how they turned out for a first pair, and I learned a lot from the process. Happy to hear any thoughts, feedback, or tips for the next pair.

Hi all, apologies for the bad lighting. I included some closeups that show the top block better. The legs feel fine, I’m mainly just wondering if the waist/hips/seat is too tight or not.

For reference, I’m 5’6” 155lbs. I’m trying to lose about 20 pounds I gained over this past year. It was a bit hard to button at first, but I’m not sure if that’s from nature of the fabric or not. I’m thinking of going up to a size 33. The 32 doesn’t feel uncomfortable however. I’m used to wide/loose fits so this is a first for me.

From L to R: Fullcount DCRM1001, Pure Blue Japan WSB-019 double slub, Momotaro MXJE1101, Levi’s Made & Crafted x Frenchtrotter and Fullcount DCRM1001W

Happy weekend everyone!

While I have five pairs on rotation, I am really wearing two pairs, the PBJ and Momotaro, most frequent. They both happen to be narrow cut. The Fullcounts are a more relaxed fit. The Levi’s are straight cuts.

That got me thinking that two pairs in similar cuts are likely the optimal pairs rotation for me.

How many pairs you have on rotation? Are they the same or similar cut? Are you drawn to specific pairs over others?

Hi ! After trying 'modified' cuts from Momotaro, Samurai and Iron Heart, this is my first vintage cut. I am not used to this type of fit, as there is some hip flare and a more saggy seat compared with my other pairs. Also, I don't know if that bubble on the back (last picture) will disappear with continuous wears and washes. I am 184 cm and 84 kg and these are W34 L32. What do you think? Should I keep them or should I try to stretch a pair of W33?

Special thanks to @b_F84 for all the information about this pair!

~200 wears over the past 2 years and a handful of machine wash & dries. going for a vintage fade.

note: I removed the leather patch and the right back pocket stitching.

P3: streaky fade of the slubby fabric on the knee
P4: coin pocket fade and small hole
P5: cuff blowout and repair
P6: belt loop fade

I have a pair of 38 Rogue Territory standard issue that are too big. I’ve been wearing them though as I still enjoy the way they feel. Went with Tellason Ankara in a 38. Size seemed to be smaller compared to size chart of RT. I’m nervous about going down to a size 36 as I don’t like my waist being tight. Help me decide if I should send them back for a smaller size.

EDIT:
Yes I know the inseam is way long. I didn’t have them do the inseam as I wanted to get the fit correct first. The butt seems to give a little diaper bottom. I’m not sure if that will change with a soak or not. Please don’t look at the inseam. It’s obvious they are two long. More concerned with the top box of the jeans

This jacket has been on my radar for about 6 months, and after they restocked their size 42, I decided to pull the trigger and make the order. I'll admit that ordering from a Chinese selvedge denim company gave me some apprehension, but a few successful orders from Bronson Mfg., I had the confidence to give them a try.
Ordered of their website. Delivery took about 7 business days.

Normally I'm fairly vanilla as far as my denim goes: I like the uniformity of Iron Heart without any frills, but decided to do something very different for my jacket.

This called to me specifically because it answered the question of: what if you combined all the crazy ideas of denim and pushed them into a single garment? Enter the 994: a 19oz, silver buttoned, 87% cotton, 13% hemp, rainbow weft, modified type-1/type-2 hybrid.

The fabric: the denim itself has virtually no slub, very uniform, but the hemp makes the exterior very hairy and a few rainbow-coloured neps poke through the fabric. A combination of orange and yellow threads accent the jacket, which I've never seen before, but adds nice visual contrast. The interior pockets have something called "shell stitching" as an accent, and while not pictured, they are lined with an additional layer of canvas. I found the hemp was a bit prickly on initial wear, but they softened within a day.

The colour: depending on whether I'm outside, the time of day, or the amount of light in the room, the jacket itself ranges between looking very dark blue, to borderline black, almost as if it were overdyed. I like to play the long game for fading my clothing and think what it will look like 5 years in advance rather than a few months of wear, so the deeper dye is a plus for me as I don't want immediate vintage fades in 6 months. I wanna earn that s**t.
The interior is a rainbow weft, with green, red, yellow, and a light blue repeating throughout. It's quite beautiful and adds the slightest pop of colour on close inspection of the exterior.
Oh yeah, the interior placket has a white-blue selvedge line.

The weight: at 19oz, I was expecting this to feel thicker, but it's high tension weave reminds me of Iron Heart's 14oz denim. This means that while the jacket itself isn't very thick, but the whole thing feels crunchy and boxy as hell to wear and move around in—especially in the sleeves. I've been wearing it from dawn 'til dusk for about a week, and it's barely softened. Breaking this sucker in is gonna be a journey.

The hardware: as advertised, the jacket does come with twelve 925 silver buttons on the placket, cuffs, and side tabs. They are secured with brass backings, which have hourglass symbols carved on the back. Can't wait for them to start tarnishing.
There are two rivets, one on each cuff, that the company says is copper electroplated with a silver covering. They appear to be already oxidizing.
The interior comes with a fairly hearty leather patch with their logo and size on it. I do wish they would have added a hanging loop above it.

The fit: after measuring once, twice, three times using their website, and comparing to another jacket I own (a Freenote RJ1 in large), I settled on a size 42, with a bit of worry it might be too small, but the measurements were very accurate. I find the armholes very pleasant, slightly wider at the armpit and narrower at the cuffs. I've found a lot of Chinese companys have very skinny armholes that can pinch around the armpit, which this jacket avoids. I wish the sleeves were maybe 1/2 inch longer, but I find their length perfectly acceptable. The body is boxier than a type 3, but more fitted and narrow than a traditional type 1 or 2 jacket, which hits the perfect 'goldilocks' zone for me.
Note: any fit guys with large biceps might find this jacket a little tight in the arms.

Conclusion: Overall, I couldn't be happier with the jacket. The fit feels good, the fabric and stitching feels very high quality. The attention to detail from the chain stiched cuffs to liberal use of bar tacks show me that this is absolutely a premium line of selvedge denim. I'm excited to see how this thing ages and breaks in over the next several years and I'll likely be ordering from Sauce Zhan again (although I wish they would make their pants with a damn 34 inseam. Some of us Westerners have long legs).

I just hand washed these for maybe the 4th or 5th time. The other post about them has pics of when they were brand new and fit pics. I can't wear them as much as I'd like since I wear a uniform at my job, but I always wear them to ride my motorcycle, work on the bike and general free-time stuff.

Just wanted to share progress on a pair of KS-15oz that I picked up at PBJ in December 2024. These pictures were taken after the 3rd wash. Been wearing these twice a week in the office and they have been fading great. The colors are starting to pop and the texture is amazing.

I wasn’t that big of a fan of slubby denims until I saw these in person. The irregularities look so good in person. I’m glad I made the decision to pick these up. Amazing denim!

First of all, thanks for all of the comments on the post I made about washing it or not.🙏

Iron Heart 19oz left hand twill selvedge type III unwashed unsanforized denim jacket size 40 (large) IH-526L

I have been wearing it every single day, pretty much every single moment I have been awake, for the last 6 months. It has been taking a ton of abuse on my job as a electrician. Every day I have to squeeze myself into tight spaces to reach stuff, so it gets a lot of scrapes against concrete and drywall dust. I am also a huge Heavy metal fan, and this is my mosh pit armor🤘

To my nose it did not smell bad. But as per a suggestion I handed it to my female friend and simple asked "does this smell?" She gave it a sniff, wrinkled her nose a little, and then just said "yeah" in a very polite tone😂

The washing process:

Rinse.

Turn inside out.

Rinse.

Soak with detergent 30min.

Agitate every 10min.

Rinse.

Change water.

Soak with detergent 30min again.

Agitate every 10min.

Rinse.

Soak in clear water 30min.

Agitate every 10min.

Rinse.

Change water.

Soak in clear water 30min again.

Agitate every 10min.

Rinse.

Drip dry for 10min.

Towel roll dry.

Turn outside in.

Put on. Shape to body. Take off.

Put on wide shoulder hanger to air dry.

Leave until next day.

Put on and wear before completely dry.