r/Boots

60s Nocona merica gator I restored myself

Natural Predator Ivan’s today. I really like the color they are becoming, just from wearing them.

First photo Dayton Oh second pick in Holland Mi

I clean and condition these boots almost weekly. clean with damp cloth and condition with obenauffs, moderately... no just messy gobs.

I work in a shop as a welder, mechanic sometimes. if that's any help.

wondering how I can stop these from getting worse and avoid in the future, thanks!

photos are a little dark, sorry. can provide better ones if needed.

I picked these up around six months or so For work and they get pretty wet/muddy from time to time, but I’ve never waterproofed them or anything. On Tuesday, (it’s Thursday at the time of typing this) I ended up dusting all the dirt off then cleaned them with saddle soap. After leaving them dry for almost 48 hours, they look like this. My fear which I know is probably the case, is that the leather absorbed a bit of the solution. How can I reverse this?

My 7 year old suede 1000 ml boots. My son found my 10 year old chippies and since I never properly broke them in, they became my 7th grade son’s favorite pair. 2 things come to mind 1 that I am cooler than he says I am, and B they really are heritage boots

Just got a new job after working construction for a couple of years, they’re a little on the fancier side of things and notice my boots looking particularly beat.. could i rejuvenate these at-least a little? Pretty comfy composite toes and i feel they still have some life, or should i just bite the bullet?

First things first: tools used (this is a HUGE stickler of mine. It’s so much easier for someone to get into shoe repair if they know what tools to get in the first place and don’t spend an enormous of amount of time and energy just figuring out what tools and supplies to get). That should cover most of the tools used for welting this pair of boots, at least the more difficult to search for, specialty items. Of course this not every tool or supply used in a re craft, but the ones I feel that most apply to this specific process.

1. ⁠CS Osborne Peg Awl Haft #143, Groz Beckert Jerk Needle #6 (available as a unit from MzzTrzz.com)
2. ⁠1.0mm Ritza Tiger Thread (Amazon, etc)
3. ⁠CS Osborne Side Cutter Staple Remover #787A, Amazon, Cutex Sewing Supplies.
4. ⁠CS Osborne Leather Working Hammer, 9 1/4”, Weaver Leather Supply.
5. ⁠Various mini picks, pliers, hooked carpet blades, snap blade knives, razor blades, etc: Harbor Freight.
6. ⁠Gemming for Inseaming: SorrellNotions and Findings.
7. ⁠Replacement Thread Stand for Master Tool Cub, Weaver Leather Supply.
8. ⁠12mm French Skiver, Buckleguy.com
9. ⁠Barbour Storm Welt, black. (Unfortunately I can only find it available from shoe supply shops, that oftentimes you need an account to access.)
10. ⁠CS Osborne 799 Heel Pry (Amazon)
11. ⁠CS Osborne Shoemaker’s Pincer #93 (Cutex Sewing Supplies)

This post is intended to expand the knowledge available when it comes to re welting a pair of Goodyear welted boots. Sure, you can watch it on YouTube, but very often, the detail necessary to try it yourself is lacking. Speaking of other sources of knowledge, I recommend Harry Roger’s excellent book, Making Handmade Shoes: A step by step guide, available on Amazon. Even if you never intend to repair or make welted footwear, it is well worth a read.

The boots used in this post are circa 1980 production Chippewa “Sport Boots”, manufactured in Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin. Chippewa existed as a shoe manufacturer with a unionized workforce in Chippewa Falls from 1901 until February,1984, when Justin Brands acquired them and moved all production to Texas. As of this writing (2026), all boots with the Chippewa name are made outside of the US.

The boots themselves are in excellent, sat in a closet for 40 years shape. Just need to freshened up with new rubber and cleaned, conditioned, etc. I would rate them as a step above both current and past Red Wing Heritage offerings in quality. They use a unique hybrid gemming/holdfast design on the insole that I haven’t seen before and presented an opportunity for some out of the box thinking. The hardware is a little better quality, the leather a little better, etc. A high quality, 360 degree welted boot!

Like so many things, the crux of successfully re welting a boot is the ability to pay careful attention. The “hardest” part in my opinion, on a 360 welt, is starting and stopping.

After a successful, safe teardown of the sole/midsole and welt (you can find examples of this on YouTube) with the pincers, heel pry, and hooked carpet blades, the old welt can be removed. In this case, this old welt was in good enough shape to be removed the “easy” way: starting past the joint and its “ending stitches” (which are oftentimes a mess, easily discerned by a mess of knots), gently pull the welt away from the upper with mini pliers, and carefully cut a welt stitch. I use a snap blade knife for its size and ease of use. Once the welt has been started, you can pull it away and slip the knots of the lock stitch, all the way around. You can then pull the “end stitches”, carefully. I like to use a pick and a knife to individually pull them. The process can’t really be described well via text.

Once the welt has slipped the stitching, I pull the stitching out of the gemming. I start at the same place (past the joint) , and pull the stitching loose with a pick, and then cut it free from the “end” side. Then you can then grab it with mini pliers and pull the whole stitch out of the gemming.

You can see examples of what I have described on various channels on YouTube. Hard to describe via text!

Now, the next part is not often done, but on an old, old pair of boots with a leather insole (>10 years), it is oftentimes necessary to remove the whole insole. Both to take the set of of the previous wearer out, and to rehydrate and condition them. Sometimes the insole needs to be replaced entirely. The insoles on this pair of Chippewas were in GREAT shape (little moisture damage), high quality, and had the unique hybrid gemming/holdfast design. Needless to say, I wanted to re use them.

INB4 “bUt tHe bOOts wiLL lOsE sHaPe”!!

That’s not the kind of boots these are. These boots, and many others, do not rely on the insole board for a specific shape, particularly in the arch. 45 year old Lucchese’s? Not recommended to pull the insole unless you have the specific last to re shape it to.

Now, the tool I use to remove the factory lasting staples (the tiny little staples used for the upper to the gemming at the factory), is the CS Osborne 787a side cutter. I mention it specifically by name because it’s easily the best tool I have found to do this very specific task. It’s important to be able to differentiate between the upper and gemming insole, and cut between them, carefully.

Once the lasting staples have been removed, the old gemming and as much cork as can be safely removed are…removed. I like to strip the insole board down as close as I can to bare leather. Then, I rehydrate in a bucket of water (until the bubbles stop, usually a half hour plus or minus). Condition with Bick 4, let air dry with a weight to prevent curving. After dry, I condition again.

On this particular insole, it uses a “wall” of leather carved out of the insole to attach the welt to, and the gemming is really only used as a backer. So I had to cut the gemming down and cement the side to the “wall”.

After I let it cure for a day, I pre stitch the insole to the upper. Because I want to make sure to use all the factory holes, I would pull the thread through one hole, and jump ahead to the next, pulling back the upper to see. Due to the design of this insole, I wanted everything to be as lined up and easy as possible to guide the jerk needle through when welting.

Welting Process:

I measure the welt out by carefully wrapping it to the boot, and go to where I have about two inches extra. I like to start and end my welts about where the heel counter ends, out of the way of any flex point. I find it easiest to make a diagonal cut for my splice. Hard to photograph!

I dunk my welts for a half hour and let them soak, and keep them wait by periodically spraying with water. Basically, I am “wet forming” the welt to the boot in this way for a nice snug fit when the welt dries.

To start, I start at the 3rd hole from the beginning. The previous two holes I use for the splice joining, and then to tie off the the welt thread. Welting, in my mind, is all about the 90 degree angle. The 90 degree angle between the welt and the upper, and the 90 degree angle between jerk needle and the upper. You want to drive the needle in straight, being aware of how much “gas” you’re giving the needle as you push it through the hole. Truly one of the things you need to have a feel for!

I pull my lock stitch tight, bare handed with no gloves, while making sure to have my elbows locked at yet another 90 degree angle and using only that part of my arm (below elbow) to pull the thread tight. Even if you don’t consider yourself that strong, you can snap any type of thread with your body weight, etc, on it.

On this pair, due to the insole design, I did not mark the stitch holes with a marker, but on a different pair, it’s never a bad idea.

Going around the corners: I make sure the welt is wet with the spray bottle. Depending on the boot and its size, some curves are sharper than others. If the welt is wanting to curve up, I flatten it with a smooth face hammer. You may have to do this multiple times, but I like my welt sitting as flat as possible before drying.

I always try to run the welt as close as possible to its joint before I make my second, final cut of the welt. This helps avoid cutting the welt too short. Basically, I line up the pieces on top of each other, and match the cut of the starting piece, and VERY CAREFULLY cut the excess with a sharp, fresh razor blade. Then I make my joining stitch (first blank whole at the start) and then cut my thread about to where I have two foot long pieces, and pull through the welt side to the gemming side with a needle, and tie the welt thread off. (2nd blank hole).

Hopefully this post is educational and answers some questions. Hard to do via text, but it’s here.

Thanks,
Brad

Hello boot community. I have had this pair of boots sitting in my closet for almost 10 years. I think I received them as a gift or something. I don’t wear boots and don’t intend to.

My cousin saw them and pointed out that they are ostrich. I did some research and I see this brand going for $800-$1800 online. I can’t find this exact design on their website or anywhere online, so I figured I’d consult the experts.

How much are these worth in this condition? Clearly they’ve never been worn and have been stored well. Does anyone know how much this specific pair goes for?

Sorry if this is the wrong place for this post. I couldn’t find a sub specifically for boot pricing. Please let me know if I’m in the wrong place.

my steel toes are digging into the top knuckles of my toes, I had bought a custom insole from red wing too, what should I do?

Definitely more jump boot inspired than a heritage rendition, these are like a modernized take on the jump boot. They have drain holes on the sides, a padded collar, and speed lacing but also have the medallion toe cap that the jump boots are known for. The side stitching is also something iconic to the jump boots but the stitching on these are decorative, there is no canvas attached to it. The worst part about them is that the tongue is not gusseted at all so it just sits flopped over. It's not even gusseted to the 2nd or 3rd eyelet row, it's just not gusseted.

Construction is also not heritage, real jump boots are 270 welted with a nailed heel, these seem to have an injection molded EVA midsole with a cemented(?) rubber outsole. At the very least they're VERY light for an all leather boot, weighing in at 2 lbs 10 oz for the pair. This is lighter than the current issued hot weather canvas/leather military boots which weigh in at 3 lbs 14 oz for a pair (same size). The heel counter is celastic with a suede leather counter cover, the forefoot is fabric lined, and the lasting board is fiberboard.

The sizing seems to run true-to-Brannock for anyone wondering. I'm a Brannock 9.5 HTB, 8.5 HTT, and 3E width and these size 10s ended up being a good fit. I was pleasantly surprised to find that their width fit me as I usually wear XWs in military boots and have always struggled to find boots that are wide enough. I checked their website (well, a webpage with these boots as this model is discontinued) after I purchased these and they advertise that they have a wide toe box, for once, they weren't kidding or only going up to EE width.

Still contemplating on whether or not I want to keep these for my collection or to sell. I don't need more boots but these are cool and interesting. If anyone has questions, I'll do my best to answer them.

I can’t seem to find boots like his anywhere and i really need help cause im trying to make my costume early