As a boot enthusiast, I was thrilled when these vintage Chippewa Falls made boots made their way to me. I re welted them, and re used the original the leather insole. The old Chippewa boots were such good quality! At least one pair of Chippewa Falls made boots is still out and about!
First things first: tools used (this is a HUGE stickler of mine. It’s so much easier for someone to get into shoe repair if they know what tools to get in the first place and don’t spend an enormous of amount of time and energy just figuring out what tools and supplies to get). That should cover most of the tools used for welting this pair of boots, at least the more difficult to search for, specialty items. Of course this not every tool or supply used in a re craft, but the ones I feel that most apply to this specific process.
This post is intended to expand the knowledge available when it comes to re welting a pair of Goodyear welted boots. Sure, you can watch it on YouTube, but very often, the detail necessary to try it yourself is lacking. Speaking of other sources of knowledge, I recommend Harry Roger’s excellent book, Making Handmade Shoes: A step by step guide, available on Amazon. Even if you never intend to repair or make welted footwear, it is well worth a read.
The boots used in this post are circa 1980 production Chippewa “Sport Boots”, manufactured in Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin. Chippewa existed as a shoe manufacturer with a unionized workforce in Chippewa Falls from 1901 until February,1984, when Justin Brands acquired them and moved all production to Texas. As of this writing (2026), all boots with the Chippewa name are made outside of the US.
The boots themselves are in excellent, sat in a closet for 40 years shape. Just need to freshened up with new rubber and cleaned, conditioned, etc. I would rate them as a step above both current and past Red Wing Heritage offerings in quality. They use a unique hybrid gemming/holdfast design on the insole that I haven’t seen before and presented an opportunity for some out of the box thinking. The hardware is a little better quality, the leather a little better, etc. A high quality, 360 degree welted boot!
Like so many things, the crux of successfully re welting a boot is the ability to pay careful attention. The “hardest” part in my opinion, on a 360 welt, is starting and stopping.
After a successful, safe teardown of the sole/midsole and welt (you can find examples of this on YouTube) with the pincers, heel pry, and hooked carpet blades, the old welt can be removed. In this case, this old welt was in good enough shape to be removed the “easy” way: starting past the joint and its “ending stitches” (which are oftentimes a mess, easily discerned by a mess of knots), gently pull the welt away from the upper with mini pliers, and carefully cut a welt stitch. I use a snap blade knife for its size and ease of use. Once the welt has been started, you can pull it away and slip the knots of the lock stitch, all the way around. You can then pull the “end stitches”, carefully. I like to use a pick and a knife to individually pull them. The process can’t really be described well via text.
Once the welt has slipped the stitching, I pull the stitching out of the gemming. I start at the same place (past the joint) , and pull the stitching loose with a pick, and then cut it free from the “end” side. Then you can then grab it with mini pliers and pull the whole stitch out of the gemming.
You can see examples of what I have described on various channels on YouTube. Hard to describe via text!
Now, the next part is not often done, but on an old, old pair of boots with a leather insole (>10 years), it is oftentimes necessary to remove the whole insole. Both to take the set of of the previous wearer out, and to rehydrate and condition them. Sometimes the insole needs to be replaced entirely. The insoles on this pair of Chippewas were in GREAT shape (little moisture damage), high quality, and had the unique hybrid gemming/holdfast design. Needless to say, I wanted to re use them.
INB4 “bUt tHe bOOts wiLL lOsE sHaPe”!!
That’s not the kind of boots these are. These boots, and many others, do not rely on the insole board for a specific shape, particularly in the arch. 45 year old Lucchese’s? Not recommended to pull the insole unless you have the specific last to re shape it to.
Now, the tool I use to remove the factory lasting staples (the tiny little staples used for the upper to the gemming at the factory), is the CS Osborne 787a side cutter. I mention it specifically by name because it’s easily the best tool I have found to do this very specific task. It’s important to be able to differentiate between the upper and gemming insole, and cut between them, carefully.
Once the lasting staples have been removed, the old gemming and as much cork as can be safely removed are…removed. I like to strip the insole board down as close as I can to bare leather. Then, I rehydrate in a bucket of water (until the bubbles stop, usually a half hour plus or minus). Condition with Bick 4, let air dry with a weight to prevent curving. After dry, I condition again.
On this particular insole, it uses a “wall” of leather carved out of the insole to attach the welt to, and the gemming is really only used as a backer. So I had to cut the gemming down and cement the side to the “wall”.
After I let it cure for a day, I pre stitch the insole to the upper. Because I want to make sure to use all the factory holes, I would pull the thread through one hole, and jump ahead to the next, pulling back the upper to see. Due to the design of this insole, I wanted everything to be as lined up and easy as possible to guide the jerk needle through when welting.
Welting Process:
I measure the welt out by carefully wrapping it to the boot, and go to where I have about two inches extra. I like to start and end my welts about where the heel counter ends, out of the way of any flex point. I find it easiest to make a diagonal cut for my splice. Hard to photograph!
I dunk my welts for a half hour and let them soak, and keep them wait by periodically spraying with water. Basically, I am “wet forming” the welt to the boot in this way for a nice snug fit when the welt dries.
To start, I start at the 3rd hole from the beginning. The previous two holes I use for the splice joining, and then to tie off the the welt thread. Welting, in my mind, is all about the 90 degree angle. The 90 degree angle between the welt and the upper, and the 90 degree angle between jerk needle and the upper. You want to drive the needle in straight, being aware of how much “gas” you’re giving the needle as you push it through the hole. Truly one of the things you need to have a feel for!
I pull my lock stitch tight, bare handed with no gloves, while making sure to have my elbows locked at yet another 90 degree angle and using only that part of my arm (below elbow) to pull the thread tight. Even if you don’t consider yourself that strong, you can snap any type of thread with your body weight, etc, on it.
On this pair, due to the insole design, I did not mark the stitch holes with a marker, but on a different pair, it’s never a bad idea.
Going around the corners: I make sure the welt is wet with the spray bottle. Depending on the boot and its size, some curves are sharper than others. If the welt is wanting to curve up, I flatten it with a smooth face hammer. You may have to do this multiple times, but I like my welt sitting as flat as possible before drying.
I always try to run the welt as close as possible to its joint before I make my second, final cut of the welt. This helps avoid cutting the welt too short. Basically, I line up the pieces on top of each other, and match the cut of the starting piece, and VERY CAREFULLY cut the excess with a sharp, fresh razor blade. Then I make my joining stitch (first blank whole at the start) and then cut my thread about to where I have two foot long pieces, and pull through the welt side to the gemming side with a needle, and tie the welt thread off. (2nd blank hole).
Hopefully this post is educational and answers some questions. Hard to do via text, but it’s here.
Thanks,
Brad
First things first: tools used (this is a HUGE stickler of mine. It’s so much easier for someone to get into shoe repair if they know what tools to get in the first place and don’t spend an enormous of amount of time and energy just figuring out what tools and supplies to get).
CS Osborne Peg Awl Haft #143, Groz Beckert Jerk Needle #6 (available as a unit from MzzTrzz.com)
1.0mm Ritza Tiger Thread (Amazon, etc)
CS Osborne Side Cutter Staple Remover #787A, Amazon, Cutex Sewing Supplies.
CS Osborne Leather Working Hammer, 9 1/4”, Weaver Leather Supply.
Various mini picks, pliers, hooked carpet blades, snap blade knives, razor blades, etc: Harbor Freight.
Gemming for Inseaming: SorrellNotions and Findings.
Replacement Thread Stand for Master Tool Cub, Weaver Leather Supply.
12mm French Skiver, Buckleguy.com
Barbour Storm Welt, black. (Unfortunately I can only find it available from shoe supply shops, that oftentimes you need an account to access.)
CS Osborne 799 Heel Pry (Amazon)
CS Osborne Shoemaker’s Pincer #93 (Cutex Sewing Supplies)
That should cover most of the tools used for welting this pair of boots, at least the more difficult to search for, specialty items. Of course this not every tool or supply used in a re craft, but the ones I feel that most apply to this specific process.
This post is intended to expand the knowledge available when it comes to re welting a pair of Goodyear welted boots. Sure, you can watch it on YouTube, but very often, the detail necessary to try it yourself is lacking. Speaking of other sources of knowledge, I recommend Harry Roger’s excellent book, Making Handmade Shoes: A step by step guide, available on Amazon. Even if you never intend to repair or make welted footwear, it is well worth a read.
The boots used in this post are circa 1980 production Chippewa “Sport Boots”, manufactured in Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin. Chippewa existed as a shoe manufacturer with a unionized workforce in Chippewa Falls from 1901 until February,1984, when Justin Brands acquired them and moved all production to Texas. As of this writing (2026), all boots with the Chippewa name are made outside of the US.
The boots themselves are in excellent, sat in a closet for 40 years shape. Just need to freshened up with new rubber and cleaned, conditioned, etc. I would rate them as a step above both current and past Red Wing Heritage offerings in quality. They use a unique hybrid gemming/holdfast design on the insole that I haven’t seen before and presented an opportunity for some out of the box thinking. The hardware is a little better quality, the leather a little better, etc. A high quality, 360 degree welted boot!
Like so many things, the crux of successfully re welting a boot is the ability to pay careful attention. The “hardest” part in my opinion, on a 360 welt, is starting and stopping.
After a successful, safe teardown of the sole/midsole and welt (you can find examples of this on YouTube) with the pincers, heel pry, and hooked carpet blades, the old welt can be removed. In this case, this old welt was in good enough shape to be removed the “easy” way: starting past the joint and its “ending stitches” (which are oftentimes a mess, easily discerned by a mess of knots), gently pull the welt away from the upper with mini pliers, and carefully cut a welt stitch. I use a snap blade knife for its size and ease of use. Once the welt has been started, you can pull it away and slip the knots of the lock stitch, all the way around. You can then pull the “end stitches”, carefully. I like to use a pick and a knife to individually pull them. The process can’t really be described well via text.
Once the welt has slipped the stitching, I pull the stitching out of the gemming. I start at the same place (past the joint) , and pull the stitching loose with a pick, and then cut it free from the “end” side. Then you can then grab it with mini pliers and pull the whole stitch out of the gemming.
You can see examples of what I have described on various channels on YouTube. Hard to describe via text!
Now, the next part is not often done, but on an old, old pair of boots with a leather insole (>10 years), it is oftentimes necessary to remove the whole insole. Both to take the set of of the previous wearer out, and to rehydrate and condition them. Sometimes the insole needs to be replaced entirely. The insoles on this pair of Chippewas were in GREAT shape (little moisture damage), high quality, and had the unique hybrid gemming/holdfast design. Needless to say, I wanted to re use them.
INB4 “bUt tHe bOOts wiLL lOsE sHaPe”!!
That’s not the kind of boots these are. These boots, and many others, do not rely on the insole board for a specific shape, particularly in the arch. 45 year old Lucchese’s? Not recommended to pull the insole unless you have the specific last to re shape it to.
Now, the tool I use to remove the factory lasting staples (the tiny little staples used for the upper to the gemming at the factory), is the CS Osborne 787a side cutter. I mention it specifically by name because it’s easily the best tool I have found to do this very specific task. It’s important to be able to differentiate between the upper and gemming insole, and cut between them, carefully.
Once the lasting staples have been removed, the old gemming and as much cork as can be safely removed are…removed. I like to strip the insole board down as close as I can to bare leather. Then, I rehydrate in a bucket of water (until the bubbles stop, usually a half hour plus or minus). Condition with Bick 4, let air dry with a weight to prevent curving. After dry, I condition again.
On this particular insole, it uses a “wall” of leather carved out of the insole to attach the welt to, and the gemming is really only used as a backer. So I had to cut the gemming down and cement the side to the “wall”.
After I let it cure for a day, I pre stitch the insole to the upper. Because I want to make sure to use all the factory holes, I would pull the thread through one hole, and jump ahead to the next, pulling back the upper to see. Due to the design of this insole, I wanted everything to be as lined up and easy as possible to guide the jerk needle through when welting.
Welting Process:
I measure the welt out by carefully wrapping it to the boot, and go to where I have about two inches extra. I like to start and end my welts about where the heel counter ends, out of the way of any flex point. I find it easiest to make a diagonal cut for my splice. Hard to photograph!
I dunk my welts for a half hour and let them soak, and keep them wait by periodically spraying with water. Basically, I am “wet forming” the welt to the boot in this way for a nice snug fit when the welt dries.
To start, I start at the 3rd hole from the beginning. The previous two holes I use for the splice joining, and then to tie off the the welt thread. Welting, in my mind, is all about the 90 degree angle. The 90 degree angle between the welt and the upper, and the 90 degree angle between jerk needle and the upper. You want to drive the needle in straight, being aware of how much “gas” you’re giving the needle as you push it through the hole. Truly one of the things you need to have a feel for!
I pull my lock stitch tight, bare handed with no gloves, while making sure to have my elbows locked at yet another 90 degree angle and using only that part of my arm (below elbow) to pull the thread tight. Even if you don’t consider yourself that strong, you can snap any type of thread with your body weight, etc, on it.
On this pair, due to the insole design, I did not mark the stitch holes with a marker, but on a different pair, it’s never a bad idea.
Going around the corners: I make sure the welt is wet with the spray bottle. Depending on the boot and its size, some curves are sharper than others. If the welt is wanting to curve up, I flatten it with a smooth face hammer. You may have to do this multiple times, but I like my welt sitting as flat as possible before drying.
I always try to run the welt as close as possible to its joint before I make my second, final cut of the welt. This helps avoid cutting the welt too short. Basically, I line up the pieces on top of each other, and match the cut of the starting piece, and VERY CAREFULLY cut the excess with a sharp, fresh razor blade. Then I make my joining stitch (first blank whole at the start) and then cut my thread about to where I have two foot long pieces, and pull through the welt side to the gemming side with a needle, and tie the welt thread off. (2nd blank hole).
Hopefully this post is educational and answers some questions. Hard to do via text, but it’s here.
Thanks,
Brad
I picked up these 1980s Irish Setter Sport Boots, and like many of the old 877s, these had been someone’s lawn mowin’ shoes. They were dry as a bone, had no shortage of scrapes, but nothing that went through the upper. The insole was free of cracks and not “Peter Panned” (what I call it when leather insoles curl up at the toe).
I stripped them down to the upper, which was, to put it mildly, a tedious process. When these leather welts get so old, you are not able to do that cool trick where you get it started, and then yank the whole welt off, ( I tried. The welt would just crumble). So, each welt stitch had to be carefully cut. Once that was completed, the old cork was scraped out. Over the years and due to exposure to moisture and drying cycles, the cork had turned to gunk, for lack of a better word.
After the cork gunk had been removed, I could remove the welt stitching from the gemming, and the insole from the upper. The insoles were re usable, but needed to be sanded on the bottom to remove old cork/cement, re hydrated and conditioned, and smoothed out.
Once that process was completed, new gemming is installed. I use the gemming from Lisa Sorrell in nearby Guthrie, Oklahoma. At the urge of a friend and mentor of mine in Southern California, I didn’t just install one or two temporary stitches, I temporary stitched the whole insole in. This takes about an hour, but has its advantages:
You have pre made holes to work with in the gemming;
The insole falls into its channels all the way around, and your not fighting to keep it place and install the welt at the same time as you work your way around the boot.
I get asked more questions about welting online that about anything else it seems. I will briefly put a little of what I know out there. To put a good welt on a boot, it takes time and practice. You will not be able to jump from having never turned a wrench on a boot before to re welting your favorite pair of Iron Rangers. Starting, ending, and jointing/skiving welts takes practice, and the whole process itself is somewhat dependent on “feel” and little bits and pieces you pick up over time. It’s not complicated, on paper, but you have to be able to stand and pay attention to each and every hole and the welt as it goes on.
On this particular pair, I used Barbour black coated storm welt, which, in my experience, is the easiest welt to install. It’s stiff when wet, has a well defined channel, and is STOUT. If you check my post history, you will see no shortage of re welted plasti-welt boots (Thorogood and Carolina). These old Red Wings were easier than those, because they actually did a good job of putting uniform, well defined welt holes at consistent spacing in the uppers. Plasti Welt boots, more often than not, have welt holes shot through the upper EVERYWHERE, and often, it looks like whoever did it was inebriated. Over here, over there, 50 holes by the welt joint, closer and further apart, etc. You get the idea.
These Red Wings were a straightforward process. After the welts were installed, I re corked them. Nothing special, just some sheet. A Vibram rubber midsole and classic blown rubber Christys completed the bottom end.
Up top, I re stitched the moc toes to give some more definition and brighten the look with fresh thread. The old corroded eyelets were replaced with new black ones.
Another round of cleaning and conditioning, and some new leather laces, they were back together.
Thanks for reading,
Brad
2026 Hoosier Sooner Shoe Ardmore, Oklahoma.
Installed a Vibram 528 on these Thorogoods. The 528 Roccia looks similar to the 100 Montagna, but instead of being hard as a rock, is soft like a wedge soles. I re welted and upgraded the shanks while I had the boots apart. Looking forward to hearing his review of this combo.
A friend of mine brought me his new Thorogoods for some upgrades. These received the Vibram 528 Roccia, which looks like the hard as a rock 100 Montagna, but are made of Newflex, a much softer material that wedge soles are also made out of. They also received new Barbour split reverse leather storm welts, and steel shanks.
Another pair of re welted, re soled work boots headed to the factory. Just for curiosity, I used a blue midsole and blue thread this time. These Thorogoods were brand new and scored for under $100, and then I got to work tearing them down and building them up. Leather Barbour storm welt, Vibram rubber midsole, blown rubber Vibram Christy. The response to this job on Carolinas has been enthusiastic, so I hope these continue the trend!