r/AskACobbler

So I bought these Prada boots for pretty cheap, as you can see the sole on one of the shoes is obliterated. I’m just curious if it’s possible to get a thick chunky vibram rubber sole put on to these, something like in the last photo

Hi,
I bought a pair of secondhand Paraboot Michaels - they were basically like new. After a month of wearing them, I was getting some sand out of the shoes and noticed this. Any ideas what those marks could be?

My first thought was: “WTF, did someone try to DIY-repair them with super glue?” But why? I can’t see any damage.

I’m just wondering whether I could remove them with some kind of tool, or if it’s better to just leave them alone.

God knows how this happened to my significant others Dr Martens.

Are these able to be repaired?

Thanks in advance.

I sent my Dr Marten Marie Ballet Flats to be repaired by a local cobbler. They gave them back to me and I noticed that there is this hard, black goop all over the stitching, bubbling over from underneath the sole in some places. I’m really upset and I don’t know if I’m in the right to call them and complain, especially because I told them to take their time, no rush, as long as they came out right. Dude…. The yellow stitching is black now. It just looks so sloppy, and I’m really unhappy.

I'm handicapped & drag my feet. Where the big toe is they get worn out very quickly. I'd like to keep by combat boots al long as I can. I just didn't know if it could be possible with these type of boots.

About a month and a half ago, I used some wax-based polish on my high-quality leather shoes, and I made sure to get it right inside the eyelet tabs where the upper leather creases. Now I've noticed that the dried wax has turned those creases a sort of grayish color, rough on the touch. Do you think I should just polish them again and use a brush this time, or would you recommend taking them to a pro who knows how to use a shoe conditioner? I'm really worried the wax might dry out the leather and cause permanent cracks in the upper

First things first: tools used (this is a HUGE stickler of mine. It’s so much easier for someone to get into shoe repair if they know what tools to get in the first place and don’t spend an enormous of amount of time and energy just figuring out what tools and supplies to get). That should cover most of the tools used for welting this pair of boots, at least the more difficult to search for, specialty items. Of course this not every tool or supply used in a re craft, but the ones I feel that most apply to this specific process.

1. ⁠CS Osborne Peg Awl Haft #143, Groz Beckert Jerk Needle #6 (available as a unit from MzzTrzz.com)
2. ⁠1.0mm Ritza Tiger Thread (Amazon, etc)
3. ⁠CS Osborne Side Cutter Staple Remover #787A, Amazon, Cutex Sewing Supplies.
4. ⁠CS Osborne Leather Working Hammer, 9 1/4”, Weaver Leather Supply.
5. ⁠Various mini picks, pliers, hooked carpet blades, snap blade knives, razor blades, etc: Harbor Freight.
6. ⁠Gemming for Inseaming: SorrellNotions and Findings.
7. ⁠Replacement Thread Stand for Master Tool Cub, Weaver Leather Supply.
8. ⁠12mm French Skiver, Buckleguy.com
9. ⁠Barbour Storm Welt, black. (Unfortunately I can only find it available from shoe supply shops, that oftentimes you need an account to access.)
10. ⁠CS Osborne 799 Heel Pry (Amazon)
11. ⁠CS Osborne Shoemaker’s Pincer #93 (Cutex Sewing Supplies)

This post is intended to expand the knowledge available when it comes to re welting a pair of Goodyear welted boots. Sure, you can watch it on YouTube, but very often, the detail necessary to try it yourself is lacking. Speaking of other sources of knowledge, I recommend Harry Roger’s excellent book, Making Handmade Shoes: A step by step guide, available on Amazon. Even if you never intend to repair or make welted footwear, it is well worth a read.

The boots used in this post are circa 1980 production Chippewa “Sport Boots”, manufactured in Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin. Chippewa existed as a shoe manufacturer with a unionized workforce in Chippewa Falls from 1901 until February,1984, when Justin Brands acquired them and moved all production to Texas. As of this writing (2026), all boots with the Chippewa name are made outside of the US.

The boots themselves are in excellent, sat in a closet for 40 years shape. Just need to freshened up with new rubber and cleaned, conditioned, etc. I would rate them as a step above both current and past Red Wing Heritage offerings in quality. They use a unique hybrid gemming/holdfast design on the insole that I haven’t seen before and presented an opportunity for some out of the box thinking. The hardware is a little better quality, the leather a little better, etc. A high quality, 360 degree welted boot!

Like so many things, the crux of successfully re welting a boot is the ability to pay careful attention. The “hardest” part in my opinion, on a 360 welt, is starting and stopping.

After a successful, safe teardown of the sole/midsole and welt (you can find examples of this on YouTube) with the pincers, heel pry, and hooked carpet blades, the old welt can be removed. In this case, this old welt was in good enough shape to be removed the “easy” way: starting past the joint and its “ending stitches” (which are oftentimes a mess, easily discerned by a mess of knots), gently pull the welt away from the upper with mini pliers, and carefully cut a welt stitch. I use a snap blade knife for its size and ease of use. Once the welt has been started, you can pull it away and slip the knots of the lock stitch, all the way around. You can then pull the “end stitches”, carefully. I like to use a pick and a knife to individually pull them. The process can’t really be described well via text.

Once the welt has slipped the stitching, I pull the stitching out of the gemming. I start at the same place (past the joint) , and pull the stitching loose with a pick, and then cut it free from the “end” side. Then you can then grab it with mini pliers and pull the whole stitch out of the gemming.

You can see examples of what I have described on various channels on YouTube. Hard to describe via text!

Now, the next part is not often done, but on an old, old pair of boots with a leather insole (>10 years), it is oftentimes necessary to remove the whole insole. Both to take the set of of the previous wearer out, and to rehydrate and condition them. Sometimes the insole needs to be replaced entirely. The insoles on this pair of Chippewas were in GREAT shape (little moisture damage), high quality, and had the unique hybrid gemming/holdfast design. Needless to say, I wanted to re use them.

INB4 “bUt tHe bOOts wiLL lOsE sHaPe”!!

That’s not the kind of boots these are. These boots, and many others, do not rely on the insole board for a specific shape, particularly in the arch. 45 year old Lucchese’s? Not recommended to pull the insole unless you have the specific last to re shape it to.

Now, the tool I use to remove the factory lasting staples (the tiny little staples used for the upper to the gemming at the factory), is the CS Osborne 787a side cutter. I mention it specifically by name because it’s easily the best tool I have found to do this very specific task. It’s important to be able to differentiate between the upper and gemming insole, and cut between them, carefully.

Once the lasting staples have been removed, the old gemming and as much cork as can be safely removed are…removed. I like to strip the insole board down as close as I can to bare leather. Then, I rehydrate in a bucket of water (until the bubbles stop, usually a half hour plus or minus). Condition with Bick 4, let air dry with a weight to prevent curving. After dry, I condition again.

On this particular insole, it uses a “wall” of leather carved out of the insole to attach the welt to, and the gemming is really only used as a backer. So I had to cut the gemming down and cement the side to the “wall”.

After I let it cure for a day, I pre stitch the insole to the upper. Because I want to make sure to use all the factory holes, I would pull the thread through one hole, and jump ahead to the next, pulling back the upper to see. Due to the design of this insole, I wanted everything to be as lined up and easy as possible to guide the jerk needle through when welting.

Welting Process:

I measure the welt out by carefully wrapping it to the boot, and go to where I have about two inches extra. I like to start and end my welts about where the heel counter ends, out of the way of any flex point. I find it easiest to make a diagonal cut for my splice. Hard to photograph!

I dunk my welts for a half hour and let them soak, and keep them wait by periodically spraying with water. Basically, I am “wet forming” the welt to the boot in this way for a nice snug fit when the welt dries.

To start, I start at the 3rd hole from the beginning. The previous two holes I use for the splice joining, and then to tie off the the welt thread. Welting, in my mind, is all about the 90 degree angle. The 90 degree angle between the welt and the upper, and the 90 degree angle between jerk needle and the upper. You want to drive the needle in straight, being aware of how much “gas” you’re giving the needle as you push it through the hole. Truly one of the things you need to have a feel for!

I pull my lock stitch tight, bare handed with no gloves, while making sure to have my elbows locked at yet another 90 degree angle and using only that part of my arm (below elbow) to pull the thread tight. Even if you don’t consider yourself that strong, you can snap any type of thread with your body weight, etc, on it.

On this pair, due to the insole design, I did not mark the stitch holes with a marker, but on a different pair, it’s never a bad idea.

Going around the corners: I make sure the welt is wet with the spray bottle. Depending on the boot and its size, some curves are sharper than others. If the welt is wanting to curve up, I flatten it with a smooth face hammer. You may have to do this multiple times, but I like my welt sitting as flat as possible before drying.

I always try to run the welt as close as possible to its joint before I make my second, final cut of the welt. This helps avoid cutting the welt too short. Basically, I line up the pieces on top of each other, and match the cut of the starting piece, and VERY CAREFULLY cut the excess with a sharp, fresh razor blade. Then I make my joining stitch (first blank whole at the start) and then cut my thread about to where I have two foot long pieces, and pull through the welt side to the gemming side with a needle, and tie the welt thread off. (2nd blank hole).

Hopefully this post is educational and answers some questions. Hard to do via text, but it’s here.

Thanks,
Brad

Got these for free and was wondering if they’d be fixable? It’s really deteriorated so I’d imagine the whole bottom would need replaced.

Wore these for about 2 hours. Dry streets of Paris.

These are Meermins. Can I still wear them? Should I resole?

Shopkeeper told me to not wear them outside.

Hey y’all, the fake leather on these boots is peeling away from the seams as you can see. I don’t care too much about the look but I want to make sure the damage doesn’t get worse with more wear. I tried gluing them with contact glue but I couldn’t get a good bond. Fabric glue was better but I figured I should ask before I drown the things in more glue. What is the best way I can fix this as home? And is there anything a cobbler can do that I can’t diy (albeit worse)? I’m willing to buy any necessary specialist glues or anything like that

Hello sub,

I have noticed recently, that several of my shoes (particularly the right one) are separating from the sole, as is visible in both the photographs. Please suggest ways to fix it and perhaps some care tips?

PS: I have a habit of opening my right shoe by pulling it off from the ankle using the left toes. Is that habit to be blamed?

The rubber (?) sole of my left show was hanging off on the corner for a while, and finally gave up today without my noticing. There's a cobbler in my area, but will he be able to fix this without the original piece that fell off? I have my grandad's funeral next month, so I need to get them fixed ASAP. They are Clarks Craftmaster Size 8Gs.

These are good year welted, 7 months old maybe, I at a glance cant tell whats the state od the soles here. I get conflixting info on the internet. So I imagine its better to get taught by experts using the example of this shoe itself. The construction and the differenet layers, and what does each do etc

Hi

I'd like to have a crack at giving this pair of Genson shoes a new lease of life.

I've not done this before - should I start with Saphir Renomat or Renovator Cream...or saddle soap?

I was thinking I would then use Saphir Pommadier to colour.

But I'm a novice and this is the first (of hopefully more!) attempts.

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks

My wonderful kitten decided that my leather boots make a great scratching post. I’m wondering if I could fix these myself, or whether I should go to a cobbler.

I just bought these heels second hand online, the seller did not share how damaged they were. I guess they looked fine in the photos, but after wearing for an hour the paint has cracked and chipped in multiple places.
;( Is there anything I can do? I’ve been calling cobblers in my area but they just specialize in resoles and leather.