Is anyone else finding replay podcast to not work reliably?

I’m finding that if I manually mark an episode or delete an episode, it will automatically download the next episode but if I actually listen to the episode and reach the end it either will not download the next episode or sometimes it will download the episode (with a diamond symbol) but then it downloads 2 extra after that

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u/SynclinalJob — 2 days ago

Anyone know of any replacements for this old Westinghouse main breaker? I’m going to throw 2 BR2100’s in to get by but I can’t seem to find any direct replacements for it

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u/SynclinalJob — 24 days ago

Toyota dealership sold me a car with a history of an accident that was advertised as “Clean History Report”

Location: Florida

Basically what the title says. I was sold a Gold Certified Pre-owned 2025 Camry with 16,000 miles. Part of being certified is a 160 point inspection.

A week after owning it, I noticed my rear exhaust was completely loose. I was able to push it forward hard and snap it back into the rubber bracket.

Then I found in the infotainment system a history section that showed a malfunction with the SRS airbag system and auto high beam system. It was dated 1/25.

I decided to pay for a carfax and found that, sure enough, a “minor” accident on the front end is listed in January 2025. I’m not sure if the exhaust coming out of the bracket is related, but it’s always possible from the inertia from the car stopping quick.

I’m upset at the dealership because the listing online showed a clean record and they obviously didn’t perform the 160 point inspection per Toyotas standard or they would have fixed the exhaust.

They unfortunately took down the listing but one of the vehicle reports I pulled includes descriptions (which states “Clean History Report”), dates, and pictures from when it was listed for sale.

My plan is to use this as evidence along with a letter asking for compensation. I’m not sure if I should ask for a decent amount in a refund. I found a formula online that insurance companies use to calculate depreciation on a vehicle. It’s basically 10% of the market value and then you do a 1/4 of that number for minor damage.

My wife thinks I should ask for even more considering the inconvenience, having to pay for vehicle reports, etc.

I’d rather not have to return the vehicle and purchase another one but I also don’t want to be screwed if I were to trade it in because dealers will low ball you for having an accident record. I have a 3 year 36,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty so I’m not too concerned with possible issues, but I do hear about possible paint issues way down the line.

Any advice on how I should proceed and calculate what amount I should ask for? Should I include an option to return the car in my letter?

Thanks

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u/SynclinalJob — 30 days ago

Any advice for a Floridian that is part sparky

I work for a small company that mainly does low voltage work and we have the electrical contractors license subleased from another electrical contractor.

Everything is official but I’m not sure if technically I’m supposed to be doing this work independently.

Background on me, I have been interested in electrical since I was 12. I’ve learned as much as I could and tried to expose myself to as much as I could through my jobs working commerical and industrial maintenance. I’ve had other master electricians kind of mentor me. I went to trade school for electrical and aced the entrance exam to the point where the teachers questioned why I was going to school. I completed the course and used their resources to learn above and beyond the curriculum. Between a few jobs I’ve had, I’ve been involved with some 3-phase, and lots of residential.

My current job has me occasionally doing panel swap outs (3 per year maybe), ev charger installations, adding branch circuits, troubleshooting, etc. Keep in mind this is all independently and sometimes being the lead guy. I know what I’m doing, everything is to code and very good work. I’m not a hack by any means.

The problem is that I’m also doing access control, IP cameras, and other automation systems.

My salary is above $70k and I feel kind of stuck because I am very knowledgeable with electrical code and I do have a lot of experience, but I can’t go saying that I’ve done electrical for 4 years because it’s not the primary role. So switching jobs to be 100% electrician is not easy. My current job is like 80-90% low voltage.

I really want to get into commerical and industrial maybe working more with PLC’s but I feel like I’ll probably have to start as an apprentice and I can’t afford that at all.

I was thinking of finding another big contractor that does both low and high voltage and reaching out but I’m afraid I’ll just keep being put on low voltage jobs.

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u/SynclinalJob — 3 months ago

I’m currently on Dark Star with a promo price and have been for 5 months (paid annually). Everything is great but I miss my number being linked with my Apple Watch.

I’m curious, if I switch to Warp with this one line, would I be charged the full difference of the annual amount or could it be prorated. If I’m 5 months in would I be charged the difference between my promo and full price for just 7 months?

Thanks!

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u/SynclinalJob — 4 months ago