
Bangkok to Luang Prabang overland: the night train north, then two days down the Mekong
There is a one-and-a-half-hour flight from Bangkok to Luang Prabang. Skip it. The overland version takes the better part of a week and it is a pretty memorable trip that I can highly recommend.
You start with the night train to Chiang Mai from Bangkok. Book a second-class air-conditioned sleeper ahead of time, because the tickets (and especially the lower berths) sell out fast. You board in Bangkok in the early evening, and wake up as the track winds into the hills near Chiang Mai. It is a night of travel that costs you no daylight, which is the whole trick. Some food can be bought during the ride, but it's always a good idea to pack something.
Give Chiang Mai a few days. Doi Suthep before the tour buses, the old city on foot, one market (like Siri Wattana Market, which is my personal favorite for local foods) where the food is the point and not the souvenirs. It is worth a few days on its own, so do not rush it just to get to the border.
When you are ready to cross, take a bus or taxi to Chiang Khong (specifically the Thai-Lao friendship bridge). It is six or seven hours by bus, and about five hours by taxi. Cross the border into Laos and stay in Huay Xai for a night. Laos gives most nationalities a visa on arrival, so bring clean US dollar bills or Thai Baht and a passport photo, and check your own passport rules (see here) before you go.
View from the Thai-Laos Friendship Bridge
From Huay Xai you take the slow boat. Two days on the Mekong with a night in Pakbeng in the middle. The boat leaves late morning and gets you into Pakbeng by evening, then it is back on the water the next morning and into Luang Prabang before dark. The ticket is a seat and nothing else, so carry cash, bring water and something to eat.
There's also the possibility of taking a more luxurious slow boat. I haven't taken it myself, but as you can imagine, it costs more and is missing some of the adventure.
We booked our rooms in Pakbeng in advance, but you can probably find a room when you land rather than booking blind. The river does what it wants with the timing depending on the season, so depending on that the ride to Pakbeng can take a bit longer than expected.
What I would avoid: booking a tour together with the slowboat trip. It's easy to coordinate by yourself and it's a bit of an adventure. Some tours will start at 4 or 5 AM in Chiang Mai and stop for a temple in Chiang Rai, before continuing on to the border. This is not worth it in my opinion.
The reason to go slow is simple. You arrive in Luang Prabang having watched the country change around you, the hills flattening into the river, the towns getting smaller, instead of stepping off a plane into it.
If you have done this route yourself, did you do something differently or did it look similar?
Additional information:
Sleeper train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai https://12go.asia/en/train/Bangkok/Chiang-Mai/?z=15839495
Route from Chiang Mai to Huay Xai https://12go.asia/en/travel/Chiang-Mai/Huay-Xai/?z=15839495
After crossing the border to Laos, you'll need to take a taxi to Huay Xai. You don't need to book this in advance, there will be drivers waiting there.
Hotel in Huay Xai that I stayed at https://www.agoda.com/partners/partnersearch.aspx?pcs=1&cid=1965974&hl=en-us&hid=47001358
Slow boat from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang https://12go.asia/en/travel/Huay-Xai/Luang-Prabang/?z=15839495 (you'll see it listed on that page)
In Luang Prabang you'll find a lot of different accomodations. We stayed in a hostel that wasn't great, so I'll leave it off from this list.
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