u/Unfair_Promotion1157

This is Paul. He’s a 2000 XJ, 4.0, 4dr, 4wd, automatic with 260k miles on the original everything (except the brakes, omg don’t ask). He’s a daily driver and a solid team mate. That roof rack will carry anything, I swear (Unistrut from Home Depot).

Some background on the coolant system:
- Somebody ran the orange stuff for years before I got him. I switched to green about 6 years ago.
- That same year, he had a water pump leak on the highway that slowly lowered level until the pump cavitated and turned the system to orange foam.
- That same year (yes), the steel freeze plug on the back of the block let go (thanks Chrysler) and he lost 100% of coolant in the highway. The engine is still rocking.
- I have flushed everything with thermocure once or twice since then. The heater core got solid flow after that. Blows cold now, but I think that’s because of a coolant filter I threw in line after the flushes that can maybe go away now.
- He also has a 180 degree thermostat installed, which is probably not helping the heater output. (Sure enough, my mileage went down when I put that in by the way).

Yet somehow, the radiator doesn’t have any issues. The electric fan is beat to heck and the shrouds are hanging on by a thread. I assume its flow is poor, but it cools just fine. No overheating, even in traffic on a 90+ degree day.

I’m doing some coolant work to swap out the thermostat for a 195. While I’m breaking the system, should I do the radiator? Or leave well enough alone?

And if I do the radiator, which one? They all have reviews saying either they crack in a year or overheat.

I think I’m going to buy this machine tomorrow, unless you guys talk me out of it.

Luna L38
~10” jointer planer combo
~2’ in and out feeds on the jointer
Fully functional horizontal mortise attachment
1982

Missing the hand crank to raise and lower the planer and mortiser beds
- I don’t think I care, because I can make one easily

Missing the jointer fence
- I don’t think I care because I can buy a cheap used 6” long bed which would work better anyway, and I can just make a clamp on fence too.

I can’t find anything about this Swedish machine in English. I’m pretty jazzed?

What do you think?

I lucked into this 1985 Delta RU 50 pin router in near perfect condition for $200. Still including all the original pins and collets, but missing the factory fence.

My issue is that the head stock falls at a free fall speed. I’m surprised it hasn’t snapped a bit yet, and it’s been leaving little poc marks in the workpiece from slight overtravel / bounce.

The videos I’ve seen online show machines which descend at a slow and controlled rate. Why doesn’t mine do that?

The schrader bellows 53004 G foot pedal cylinder control valve appears to be doing its job as designed. I don’t think it ever had a feature that would have slowed downward travel based off of how I think these work.

I can’t access the cylinder itself without disassembling the head stock, but I wonder if it has some kind of a viscous damper that’s leaked out or maybe a worn out control orifice somewhere?